tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16329293140362323912024-03-13T14:22:04.046+00:00The Leon Stolarski BlogTasting notes, opinions, rants, interests and deep, meaningful thoughts of an independent wine merchantLeon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.comBlogger324125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-11829980300350313962023-03-09T14:20:00.009+00:002023-07-12T12:51:05.524+01:00Domaine Ravanès - a tasting of new releases and older vintages<div style="text-align: justify;">Hello?! Remember me? I used to write a wine blog..... but, to my great surprise, it has been over 5 and-a-half years since I last posted (and much longer since I was posting at all regularly). So what do I do now, when all of a sudden I have a particularly interesting set of wines and tasting notes that I want the world to know about? Well, why not put them here on my Blog?! Whether anyone will see them is open to question, of course - my erstwhile pretty healthy audience may well have dwindled to nothing, over the years - but to whoever reads this, thanks for looking, and I hope you enjoy the read.......<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Gg1WXyYyzmdYFkVJYXdgo_BomFd7S81H6WUI57laPpMzJeQkVzIQ9CogJVC6HdeDXDzGhdgSrRAtDzeszRDYxsvdjwJYwSWXUZlEbmNGu7isrtv-vYHtdo_oeJIPmzUO5e1xn9mP6Yox6HK6SdIEBHiDwPXUS3pwBRJQQ5yqHTmdYQqRlpACKXou/s657/P1000509.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Gg1WXyYyzmdYFkVJYXdgo_BomFd7S81H6WUI57laPpMzJeQkVzIQ9CogJVC6HdeDXDzGhdgSrRAtDzeszRDYxsvdjwJYwSWXUZlEbmNGu7isrtv-vYHtdo_oeJIPmzUO5e1xn9mP6Yox6HK6SdIEBHiDwPXUS3pwBRJQQ5yqHTmdYQqRlpACKXou/w395-h400/P1000509.JPG" width="395" /></a></div>What follows is my commentary and tasting notes from a selection of wines from the brilliant Languedoc estate <a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/domaine-ravanes-thezan-les-beziers-organic-c102x3788237">Domaine Ravanès</a>, that I presented to my friends at the Nottingham Wine Circle (NWC) in January 2023. This was a result of my latest visit to the Ravanès estate in June 2022, to taste the latest vintages and spend some quality time talking to winemaker Marc Benin (pictured right, from an earlier visit in 2012). I subsequently ordered a selection of current vintages for my business (some of which are linked to my online shop, in the notes below), and at the same time ordered a selection of older single bottles, from the estate's "library" stock, specifically to include in the NWC tasting.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Since I have been importing from Domaine Ravanès for a decade or more, I am pretty well-versed on the estate's story - not to mention, of course, the high quality of the wines. But with my usual quest for more knowledge, I asked a few questions of Marc, in order to add some technical detail to my notes on some of the older wines. Marc's answers are shown in italics.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Firstly, a little bit of history of the estate........</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />Domaine Ravanès is fairly unusual in Languedoc, in that the red wines are made predominantly - though not exclusively - from Bordeaux grape varieties. The estate was purchased by Felix Benin in 1955, but it wasn't until 1972 that Felix's son Guy planted Merlot, followed by other varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1989, Guy's son Marc obtained his Oenology-Ampelography PhD, following his studies at the Institute of Oenology in Bordeaux, and took over the estate in 1990. In 1994, Marc grafted Petit Verdot onto the rootstock of a Cinsault vineyard that had existed for 25 years or more. The Petit Verdot vines are therefore effectively now around 50 years old. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />White varieties include Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu, along with more recent plantings of Petit Manseng and Colombard. There also exists a small plot of old Aramon, which was until recently retained merely for historical purposes, but is now blended into l'Ibis Rouge, along with Syrah and Cinsault. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidT5qeInXIzgGSshwlRM2KIl6wd5rPNka-jzncZzZ1rNeX7D9SEiex2IX0B1725okoWVwLJX2vNmSBUflq6DChgYwZbEwq1QPsZaXbop-FBlkt0-YxO4ACp6IJ3BJc4f4ncc-Otc7TjLfaRiOp5fkM3dGrgQPfdqwGM_BdrsF7bE5qUTegEL5OB2o7/s864/P1000484.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="864" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidT5qeInXIzgGSshwlRM2KIl6wd5rPNka-jzncZzZ1rNeX7D9SEiex2IX0B1725okoWVwLJX2vNmSBUflq6DChgYwZbEwq1QPsZaXbop-FBlkt0-YxO4ACp6IJ3BJc4f4ncc-Otc7TjLfaRiOp5fkM3dGrgQPfdqwGM_BdrsF7bE5qUTegEL5OB2o7/w640-h372/P1000484.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The total area under vine at Domaine Ravanès is 35 hectares, and the estate now has full Organic certification. Some plots are large, some small, and the soil (which is mainly clay/limestone) contains varying amounts of stones and pebbles (as pictured above), from the "gravières" - gravel pits - of which there are many here, washed down from the hills by the adjacent River Orb. Merlot ripens very easily, and is usually harvested at the end of August, whilst the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are often picked as late as October, depending on the characteristics of the vintage.<span><!--more--></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>So, onto my tasting notes.......</b> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Wines 1, 2, 6, 7 and 10 are currently available, at the prices shown, from my online shop. The older wines are available only from the Domaine Ravanès cellar door - (in very limited quantities)...........</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHSu839FXx-wJ4YYqc84So2aTfDJ0gsnYkZ1cP0ZUkaTQbUO5gylORP2qsbTouyYp19hTM3-DDF6VIPjm-UWJqbfImO2jikPuVhhAlA8raa1A1BcVhRiObUHezb5CmaxKUiw6X2y00MV_ReROnm_OPLEGrat5HmiTyPZu3NGOQ5PyRw4uPRDdJYox/s4032/20230111_185752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1700" data-original-width="4032" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHSu839FXx-wJ4YYqc84So2aTfDJ0gsnYkZ1cP0ZUkaTQbUO5gylORP2qsbTouyYp19hTM3-DDF6VIPjm-UWJqbfImO2jikPuVhhAlA8raa1A1BcVhRiObUHezb5CmaxKUiw6X2y00MV_ReROnm_OPLEGrat5HmiTyPZu3NGOQ5PyRw4uPRDdJYox/w640-h270/20230111_185752.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/-domaine-ravanes-l-ibis-blanc-2021-pays-d-herault-coteaux-de-murviel-c2x31782307">l'Ibis Blanc 2021 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</a> - £14.75<br /></b>A blend of Colombard, Petit Manseng, Grenache Blanc. Aged in vat. So fresh and inviting, with aromas of citrus, white tree fruits, freshly cut grass and wet stone leaping from the glass. The palate offers more of the same crisp, zesty, refreshing fruit flavours - bone dry, yet intensely fruity, with subtle herby notes and mouth-watering wet stone minerality. 13.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This was followed by 4 vintages of the estate's premium white wine, Le Renard Blanc (The White Fox). The blend of grapes differs from one vintage to another. Sometimes described as "Grenache Gris et Blanc" and Maccabeu, but more recently as simply "Grenache Gris" and Maccabeu. I asked Marc about the history and evolution of this blend, and here's what he had to say;</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>"From 2006 to 2017, only Grenache Gris and Maccabeu were stated on the back label, in proportions varying from 70%-30% to 85%-15% depending on the year and the yield of each plot. From the 2018 vintage, I specified Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris with Maccabeu. The parcel of old Grenache planted in 1937 had been declared by its former owner Monsieur Renard (the name of the cuvée is a tribute to this gentleman) as Grenache Blanc. However, it actually contains about 2/3 of Grenache Gris and 1/3 of Grenache Blanc. The plants did not come from a nursery - Monsieur Renard had grafted them himself onto existing root stock and had to mix the 2 varieties. </i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>At the beginning, I harvested the 2 grape varieties separately with vinification and aging in barrels of Gris and Blanc, to be able to know the influence of the 2 colors on the wine. After 2 or more tries, I decided to vinify all the grapes together, because there was no notable difference. It was the choice of wood and the capacity of the barrels that had a major influence. Thus, the first vintages were aged in Bordeaux barrels of 225L - which for me marked the wine too much - and then gradually, we went to 300L, then 400L and today 500L and 600L. The parcel of Maccabeu was planted in 1933, which was Maccabeu with small grains. </i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>We were forced to uproot the Maccabeu plot in 2021 because it was contaminated by Flavescence Dorée and produced almost no grapes at almost 90 years old. It's a shame but we had no choice. From the 2021 vintage, Le Renard Blanc is made from 80% Grenache Gris/Blanc and 20% Petit Manseng. The aromatic profile of the wine has changed a little of course, but for the better in my opinion with more tension, freshness and balance, and the spirit of the cuvée is respected because the Grenache largely dominates."</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/domaine-ravanes-le-renard-blanc-2020-pays-d-herault-coteaux-de-murviel-c2x31834404">Le Renard Blanc 2020 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</a> -<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>£24.95<br /></b>75% Grenache Gris & Blanc, 25% Maccabeu. Fermented and aged 1 year in oak barrels. Zesty, herbaceous, spice and mineral notes, with bags of lime oil, quince, crushed nettle, thyme, mint, coriander and wet stone. Tight and focused, with ample acidity and plenty of grip, courtesy of extended maceration on the grape skins, followed by a year's ageing in oak barrels. Grenache (either Gris or Blanc) and Maccabeu rarely make for overtly fruity wines, but the word "winey" always tends to spring to mind with the best - especially when aged in oak barrels. And this is a classic example, with herbaceous and mineral elements dominating over background notes of citrus, peach and apple, with a subtle oak influence. Restrained power and elegance is the order of the day, essentially dry and tangy, but with a gently oily texture and a cool, long, minty/spicy finish. Delicious now, but has many years of ageing potential. 14.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Le Renard Blanc 2012 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</b> <span style="white-space: pre;"> <br /></span>85% Grenache Gris & Blanc, 25% Maccabeu. Fermented and aged 1 year in oak barrels. This really is in a great place right now. A little more colour than the 2020 (obviously) but still uber-fresh and focused, with a nose majoring on citrus and stony minerality. The palate too is fresh, gently zesty, minerally and herby, with a touch of honey richness and fabulous length. Many of those present compared this wine very favourably with Lopez de Heredia's Vina Tondonia Rioja Blanco - high praise indeed. A stunning wine. 14.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Le Renard Blanc 2009 IGP Coteaux de Murviel </b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>80% Grenache Gris and Blanc, 20% Maccabeu. Fermented and aged 1 year in oak barrels. This is a much deeper colour (possibly an iffy cork, that may have allowed too much air ingress). Clearly more evolved, but actually still in a really good place. Indeed, it actually developed beautifully in the glass, over the next half hour, revealing all manner of aromas and flavours - notably toast, butter, honey, wood smoke, petrol, lime oil and spiced apple pie. Very long and very lovely - and ultimately turned out to be arguably the white wine of the night. 14.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>5.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Le Renard Blanc 2005 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel </b><span style="white-space: pre;"> <br /></span>70% Grenache Gris and Blanc, 30% Maccabeu. Fermented and aged 1 year in oak barrels. Slightly paler than the 2009, and a touch fresher, though conversely richer and more honeyed, gently nutty, with soft citrus/orange flavours, as opposed to the more lemony quality of the previous wines. A touch of smoke and spiced apple pie flavours, with a long finish. At over 17 years of age, this is still remarkably fresh and has years left in the tank. Brilliant wine-making! 14.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>6.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/domaine-ravanes-l-ibis-rouge-2020-pays-d-herault-coteaux-de-murviel-c2x38508854">l'Ibis Rouge 2020 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</a> -<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>£14.75<br /></b>Syrah, Aramon and Cinsault. Aged in vat. Aromas of cherry blossom, red berries and currants, mandarin orange, garam masala, forest floor and wood smoke. The palate is equally compelling, with cherry, redcurrant, and raspberry flavours, hints of soft spice and clotted cream, all wrapped around a core of fine tannins and mouth-watering cherry skin acidity. At the same time generous, yet light, almost ethereal, sweet-sour wine, with a body and texture similar to that of a Cru Beaujolais. 13.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>7.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/domaine-ravanes-petit-verdot-2018-pays-d-herault-coteaux-de-murviel-c2x38509100">Petit Verdot 2018 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</a> <span style="white-space: pre;">- </span>£19.50<br /></b>100% Petit Verdot. Aged 30 months in vat (no oak). A mélange of black fruits, leather, spice, herb and undergrowth greet the nose, all of which comes through in spades on the palate. One might expect such a young Petit Verdot to be quite tough and angular for the moment - and there is indeed a healthy dose of tannic grip - but it is balanced by wonderful cherry skin and soft citrus acidity and such an abundance of lush, intense bramble and blackcurrant fruit that it is really rather lovely to drink already. A hint of desiccated orange, a lick of peppery spice and a touch of earthy minerality add lots of interest, whilst the finish is long and beautifully sweet-sour. 14.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>8.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Petit Verdot 2012 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel </b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>100% Petit Verdot. Aged 16 months in vat (no oak). With 6 more years of evolution over the 2018, this is really just beginning to hit its stride. Still dark, with a tiny rim, the aromas and flavours are gaining real complexity - sous-bois, tobacco and leafy notes, combined with soft citrus, bramble, cassis and plum, with myriad spice and herb notes. Long and very lovely, yet still with at least another 5 years of development left to go. 14.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>9.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Le Prime Verd 2006 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel</b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>100% Petit Verdot. Aged 30 months in oak barrels. From the best Petit Verdot grapes, and made only in the very best years. And wow - such a compelling and complex nose! Ageing red and black fruits, sous-bois, curry spices, cigar box, subtle oak and even something quite floral - violets and jasmine, perhaps(?) And a touch of cream, too. There's still plenty of tannic grip, but the abundant fruit is still hanging on nicely, though this is a wine that demands food. A cracking wine, possibly at its peak. 14.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Then on to 4 vintages of the estate's top red, Les Gravières du Taurou (Taurou is a small tributary of the River Orb, which runs through the vineyards)......</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b>Marc Benin says;</b> "The first 2 vintages of </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>Les Gravières du Taurou - </i></span><i>1998 and 1999 - were composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet-Sauvignon. But from the 2000 vintage, I decided to start with a 50% Merlot and 50% Petit Verdot base (after raising the 2 varieties separately), which at the time I considered more interesting and original, and more reliable from one year to the next. The Petit Verdot is much more regular in maturity and in quality than the often capricious Cabernet-Sauvignon, which is disappointing one year out of three. This explains why there may occasionally be some Cabernet in the blend, when we deem it worthy of the cuvée on certain vintages, but only in addition to the two other varieties, without ever exceeding 20%."</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>10.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/domaine-ravanes-les-gravieres-du-taurou-2015-pays-d-herault-coteaux-de-murviel-c2x31834789">Les Gravières du Taurou 2015 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</a><span style="white-space: pre;"> - </span>£31.99<br /></b>53% Merlot and 47% Petit Verdot, Aged 60 months in oak barrels and vat, this is the estate's flagship red, from 45+ year-old vines. Bramble, cassis, black cherry, polished leather, cedar and damp earth on the nose, with subtle hints of violets, iodine and a little bit of Languedoc spice and garrigue herb thrown in for good measure. In the mouth, the fruit is beautifully ripe and rounded, almost sweet and luscious, but with plenty of tannic grip and fabulous acidity. And even after 4 years in barrel (followed by a year in vat), you hardly notice the oak. A very fine wine, which will age and evolve to 2030 and beyond. 15.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>11.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Les Gravières du Taurou 2010 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>38% Merlot, 32% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, Aged 48 months in oak barrels. This was fresh and very much alive, when I opened it a few hours beforehand, but when we came to taste it, it had developed a slight cheesiness one associates with much older wines. The cork looked fine, so perhaps a slightly "dirty" bottle? Still a nice wine, which is still worth drinking, once you get past the somewhat oxidative/cheesy notes, but certainly not a representative bottle. 15.0% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>12.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Les Gravières du Taurou 2003 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>56% Merlot, 41% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 24 months in oak barrels. I thought it would be interesting to taste - side by side - wines from 2 of the most "extreme" vintages of the 2000's and see how they have evolved. 2003 was extremely hot (all over Europe) and getting the right balance between fruit, tannin and acidity was a challenge. And this one does it pretty well - yes, it is still a touch tannic, but the balance is still there, with plenty of herb, wood smoke and curry spice aromas and decent acidity. 14.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b>Marc Benin says;</b> "2003 was a very hot "solar" vintage in summer and autumn with the heat wave (which killed 15,000 elderly people in France!). This "hot" vintage was supposed to be unbalanced on alcohol and theoretically have a medium to short guard and in the end, we were surprised by the balance and the longevity of the wine."</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>13.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Les Gravières du Taurou 2002 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel</b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 24 months in oak barrels. The 2002 vintage was the total opposite to 2003, with a summer blighted by unusually cold temperatures and plenty of rain. That said, this is somewhat the better (more typical and complete) wine of the two. Very Claret-like, with an abundance of black fruits aromas and flavours, complemented by notes of tobacco, wild herbs and old wood. Ready to drink now, but should go for at least another 3 to 5 years. 14.5% abv</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b>Marc Benin says;</b> "In 2002, there was a lot of rain and humidity during the harvest in the Rhone Valley, but less so in Languedoc, with difficult and dragging maturities. We took the risk of waiting as long as possible to harvest, to wait for phenolic maturity in the Merlot (25 September) and the Petit Verdot (end of October) and finally succeeded in (what was) a difficult vintage elsewhere, well "broken" by the Anglo- Saxon, who had classified as in the worst years(!) The wine remained closed with a heavy tannic charge and a certain greenness making it unpleasant for a good ten years, but it is now proving to be of a very good level I believe, even after 20 years. In Ravanès, it's not like elsewhere!"</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>14.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cuvée Diogène 1996 Vin de Pays de Coteaux de Murviel (in Magnum)</b><span style="white-space: pre;"><b> </b> <br /></span>Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in oak barrels. For a wine not exactly designed to age for 26+ years, this is still a decent drink, if perhaps a few years past its peak. Definitely in the "old wine" category now, but an interesting curio from Marc Benin's early wine-making years. 13.5% abv<span><!--more--></span></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Conclusions......</b></p><p style="text-align: justify;">The purpose of this tasting was not only to showcase the current releases from Domaine Ravanès, but to illustrate the age-worthiness and positive evolution of the estate's top red <u>and</u> white wines. Indeed, whilst the reds performed pretty much as I expected them to do, the whites were a true revelation, with even the oldest (at more than 17 years) being in fine fettle. And I think it's safe to say that my fellow NWC members were impressed with the high quality of the wines, too.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">I'm proud to have kept the fire burning for the wines of Domaine Ravanès in the UK market, for the past decade or so. And when I eventually finish in the wine business (more than likely within the next year or two) I hope that some or other UK importer will have the nous to take my place, for these are some of the finest wines that Southern France have to offer. Bravo Marc Benin!</p>Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-37260790789388271142017-06-30T17:59:00.003+01:002017-06-30T17:59:22.159+01:00A new discovery - Ma Poésie 2016 Vin de France<div style="text-align: justify;">
As always, June is holiday time for us (in Languedoc - where else?) and I did intend to post a few blog entries whilst we were here. Unfortunately, for virtually the whole two weeks until yesterday, we have had no Internet connection, which has scuppered my plans. However, I have lots to write about, so will certainly be posting several new entries over the following few weeks, as and when time allows. For now, though, I feel compelled to tell you about a wonderful new (and unexpected) discovery - Ma Poésie 2016 Vin de France.</div>
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This is a wine that exemplifies/typifies the efforts being made by small-production "garagiste" vignerons all across southern France these days. And in this particular case, no less than 5 different vignerons, who all make wines in the same tiny single-storey building, situated along a country track, north of Sommières, between Montpellier and Nîmes.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The wine cellar/chai(!)</em></td></tr>
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<br />Indeed, under the tutelage of the inspired (and elusive, as I have *still* yet to meet him) Robert Creus of Terre Inconnue, these 5 growers are making some of the quirkiest, most interesting and downright delicious wines in the Languedoc region. I already import from 3 of them - Terre Inconnue, Domaine de Maruejols and Domaine Adeleandre. And now I have had the pleasure of tasting this wine, from another of the 5.......</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Tasting barrel samples and a few bottles</em></td></tr>
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<br />We were actually supposed to meet Robert Creus yesterday, but he was unfortunately unable to make it, so he asked the delightful Sylvi Leichtnam to meet us instead. Sylvi runs a chambres d'hote business nearby, and she kindly showed us around the cellar, offering us a variety of barrel samples as we went along. And then she opened a bottle of Ma Poèsie 2016, the very first vintage of her own wine.......<br /><br />Not least because one of Sylvi's favourite wines is Domaine de Trévallon, it just so happens that she has fashioned a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, aged (as are most of the wines in the group) in a mix of stainless steel vats and old oak barrels. Although her wine may not quite possess the wild, "sauvage" nature and structure of Trévallon itself, it is a wonderful wine in its own right. Whilst the colour is quite a deep, dark cherry red-purple, suggesting a big wine, the nose is really quite elegant, offering myriad red and black fruit aromas, with hints of garam masala, black pepper, rosemary, thyme and polished old wood. <br /><br />The palate is equally elegant and (dare I say it) almost feminine, offering a multitude of bramble, cassis and black cherry fruit flavours, again with myriad spice and herb nuances, with very fine, supple tannins and just the right level of balancing acidity. It finishes spicy, warm, sweet-sour, with little hints of savoury and balsam, and is very long. For a first effort, it really is a remarkably lovely wine, which is already good to drink, but would also age and evolve for at least 7-10 years, probably more. Oh, and it is - bien sur! - pretty much biodynamic and pretty "natural", with just a little SO2 added at the bottling stage. 14% abv. <br /><br />Bravo Sylvi! I *will* be importing some of this wine, in due course - if Sylvi will let me have some. :-)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Sylvi Leichtnam and her first wine</em></td></tr>
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Incidentally, we also met another excellent winemaker yesterday, as part of the same visit - about which more, very soon.</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-76721899661947258432016-12-12T02:54:00.000+00:002016-12-12T02:54:05.677+00:00Brexit - have turkeys really voted for Christmas?<div style="text-align: justify;">
I've rarely, if ever, used this blog as a political platform. After all, it's supposed to be (mostly) about wine. But one of the reasons I have posted just one single article in the last 6 months or more is that I have spent an inordinate amount of time on Twitter and Facebook, ranting and seeking solace amongst like-minded (and occasionally opposite) people about the disaster of 23 June 2016.</div>
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The following is a quote from a <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-38281146" target="_blank">BBC article on the issue of a so-called "Hard Brexit"</a>, by one of 60 or so Tory MP's who want to inflict irreparable damage on our nation and its economy;
Suella Fernandes, MP for Fareham, who said: </div>
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<i>"As was made clear in the referendum campaign, remaining in the EU's internal market like Norway, or in a customs union like Turkey, is not compatible with either of these commitments and doing so would frustrate the will of the electorate." </i></div>
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So, how exactly was it "made clear"? And who says it is "the will of the electorate"? I very much suspect that 95% or more of the electorate have little or no understanding of how things like the Single Market, EFTA or customs union actually work. And why should they? Most people have their own lives to manage, and prefer to leave the intricacies of trade agreements and inter-EU commerce to those much-maligned experts. Indeed, as someone who imports (wine) from the EU, even I don't have a particularly good grasp on these things - though I am only too aware that "Hard Brexit" would probably mean tariffs on wine and other goods (with obvious price implications) together with more, rather than less, bureaucracy and hoop-jumping. In other words, disastrous for small businesses like mine, and most probably for every other business (large or small) that imports goods from the EU. </div>
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But according to Ms. Fernandes and her self-serving cohorts such as Rees-Mogg, Redwood, Gove, Duncan Smith, Fox etc (and, I suspect, a good few on the Labour side - this goes way beyond party politics), the prospect of economic suicide is "the will of the electorate". And yet, there is not one single commentator (including some of the more obvious "Leavers" at the BBC) that would deny the fact that - for better or worse - the one single issue that won the referendum for Leave was immigration. That in itself is a far more complex issue than most people (both racist and non-racist) could imagine, but the emotive aspect, as presented by the likes of the Mail, Express, Sun and (to an extent) the Telegraph, gave them an easy target. </div>
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So let's be clear, the "will of the people" (or at least a shade over 1/4 of Britain's total population) is not withdrawal from the single market/EFTA/customs union or any other *real* economic issue - it is varying shades and combinations of "send 'em all back", "regain control of our borders" (which we already have control of), "freedom from un-elected Brussels bureaucrats", "sovereignty", "the whole world will be desperate to trade with us", etc.
And if anybody wants to argue that they voted Leave because of issues other than those stated above (and it is entirely reasonable to suggest there will be some) I will say this - you are in a tiny minority.
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I've spent the last 6 months grieving and tearing my hair out over the utter madness of the 23 June referendum result. Let's be honest, in a year full of awful news, Trump was also a bit of a shock. But assuming he reaches the White House to begin with - and that is by no means yet a certainty - at least the US can vote him out in 4 years' time. </div>
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But the prospect of Brexit (of any texture) and the divisions it has created in the UK presents the nation with the darkest, most profoundly disturbing issue it has faced in the last 70 years. Aside from the economic, political and social issues, it threatens the very existence of the greatest peace and cultural project the world has ever seen. And that is far too high a price to pay for "taking back control". </div>
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As things stand - and in the spirit of the Season - the turkeys have indeed voted for Christmas. But if I were a betting man (which I am not) my prediction would be this: Once the lies have been fully exposed, once the offer is on the table, and once it dawns on "the electorate" that what they voted for is very different to what they are actually going to get, we will be offered a second referendum on the "terms". And pragmatism - or, if you like, a collective sense of self-preservation - will win the day. OK, so my feeling is based as much on hope as it is on common sense, but as the saying goes, it's not over until the fat lady sings. Watch this space............</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-64017820801686880302016-11-25T12:27:00.000+00:002016-11-25T12:34:22.992+00:002016 and all that (plus a couple of bargain reds)<div style="text-align: justify;">
What follows was meant to form the basis of a newsletter to my customers, but I thought better of boring them with my thoughts (and occasional ranting), so it now manifests itself as my first blog post since January. 10 months without hearing from me? How have you coped?!</div>
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Anyway, a lot has happened in 2016 – and to be honest, not a lot of it good. A succession of national (and international) treasures dropping like flies, suffering the shock of Brexit whilst on holiday in the south of France, the ensuing fallout as a nation became deeply divided over the whole shambles…. and now President Trump(!) This really must be the weirdest (and for me personally) the most frustrating year in my 55 years on this planet. The last newsletter I sent out to my customers was way back in June, shortly after yet another bombshell, as we were forced (through no fault of our own) to move all of our wine stocks out of the bonded warehouse to another storage facility. The 5-figure sum that we had to shell out to pay the excise duty was a big cash-flow hit for a small company like ours, and recouping it was a slower process than we had hoped. Hence the relative paucity of new wines added to the <a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/New_arrivals.html" target="_blank">Leon Stolarski Fine Wines</a> portfolio this year. </div>
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The imminent <u>threat</u> of Brexit (I underline it because I believe it is by no means a done deal) is of course a constant worry. Whatever the arguments for and against - and, as you may have gathered, I personally can see little in its favour - the potential impact on wine importers, especially small independents like us, would be at best difficult to overcome and at worst disastrous. The 15% fall in the value of Sterling against the Euro is one thing (although we have been there before), but the possibility of leaving the single market and customs union is potentially a much bigger threat. Personally, I believe that unless and until we actually jump off that cliff, nothing is certain, but I guess only time will tell. Meanwhile, we carry on and hope for a workable outcome.... </div>
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To be honest, there have been times this year that I have seriously considered packing it all in and finding something (actually, lots of things) more useful to do with my life. None more so than a couple of weeks ago, when a customer emailed me to say he was unable to complete his order on the website. In the 12-plus years of its existence, I had never encountered such a problem. Following no less than 3 days (and nights) of frantic efforts to fix the problem, I finally got to the bottom of things and managed to carry out a complete refresh/update that got things working perfectly again. Thanks in no small part to a thread from 10 years ago on a software user forum – isn’t Google wonderful?! </div>
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However, having dodged a bullet with that one, I finally realised that it was time to put 2016 behind me and get on with something I have been threatening to do for a couple of years. And so, we have invested in the latest all-singing-all-dancing e-commerce software and I will be busy over the next couple of months preparing for a brand new site to go live, hopefully very early in 2017. Wish me luck!
Furthermore, with 2016 almost out of the way, and with everything back on an even keel, we will be back on the buying trail very early in 2017. So rest assured that Leon Stolarski Fine Wines is still here – and here to stay. </div>
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As for blogging, clearly I need to rediscover my enthusiasm and motivation. I'm not the sort of writer that can bang out an article (or even tasting note or two) in double-quick time - it takes concentration, attention to detail and the desire to provide regular input. Something(s) that I tend to lack, these days. Then again, if I can write tasting notes and other wine-related material on Facebook/Twitter, it will do no harm to copy them across to this blog, for my wider readership (if it still exists) to see. It might also help if I can, as the Leavers say, "get over it" and stop Remoaning! Meanwhile, here's a tasting note I banged out recently. <span style="font-size: large;">☺</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Les_Vignes_de_l_Arque.html#a708" target="_blank"><b>Les Vignes de l'Arque Duché d'Uzes 2014</b></a><br />
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Almost a year on from my first taste of this wine, and it is really starting to sing. 50/50 Syrah and Grenache, it is full of bright, vibrant, chunky summer fruits, with a whiff of freshly-baked bread on the nose and just the right combination of ripe red/black fruit, rounded tannins and cherry kernel acidity on the palate, with a sprinkling of garrigue herbs and soft, peppery spice. Languedoc-does-Côtes-du-Rhône, to a very high standard indeed. A snip at <b>£8.95</b> and the perfect pizza wine.<br />
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Mas_Sibert.html#a327" target="_blank"><b>Mas Sibert Armélot 2014 Vin de France</b></a><br />
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Sometimes, you open a bottle that just sings from the very first sniff and sip - and this is one of them. A quirky blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Syrah and 20% Petit Verdot, which is very definitely more than the sum of its parts. Winemaker Simon Bertschinger was very selective in opting for very particular clones of Merlot and Petit Verdot, choosing the ones that offer ample acidity. Ripeness is a given, of course, as the grapes are grown on gently undulating slopes around Pézenas, but it is a testimony to the skill of this young (Swiss) winemaker that he can achieve such wonderful balance and vivacity - not to mention a wonderful sense of place - in his wines. And this is simply overflowing with luscious, tangy, sweet-sour raspberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruit, with hints of garrigue herbs, soft citrus and beautifully ripe tannins. And oh, that acidity. It just grabs you, in the most gloriously mouth-watering, tongue-tingling way! At just <b>£11.50</b>, it is an absolute bargain - a simply wonderful, life-affirming wine! <br />
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By the way, if you want to follow me on Facebook and Twitter..........<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/leon.stolarski">https://www.facebook.com/leon.stolarski</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="https://twitter.com/LeonStolarski">https://twitter.com/LeonStolarski</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/Leon-Stolarski-Fine-Wines-307300387190/"><b>https://www.facebook.com/Leon-Stolarski-Fine-Wines-307300387190/</b></a><br />
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TTFN<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-19503030788639379282016-01-07T18:56:00.002+00:002016-01-07T18:57:49.429+00:00At last – A brand new book about the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon!<div style="text-align: justify;">
I can hardly believe that it is almost 6 years (April 2010) since I published <a href="http://leonstolarski.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Peter%20Gorley" target="_blank">this blog post</a>, concerning my good friend Peter Gorley's quest to find funding for the second edition of his book, <i>Gorley's Guide - The Wines Of Languedoc-Roussillon</i>. Even at that time, a good many years had passed since any sort of comprehensive book had been published about this wonderful - and still rapidly evolving - wine region. Rosemary George's seminal book <i>The Wines of the South of France: From Banyuls to Bellet</i> was released in 2001, followed by the first edition of <i>Gorley's Guide</i> in 2002. But since then, nothing of any real substance has come along to assist those who are interested in searching out the region's sheer wealth of new and dynamic wine growers that have appeared in the intervening period. There can't be many world class regions that have suffered such a dearth of new or topical reading in that time, let alone one which many of its proponents (of which I am obviously one) consider to be currently <u>the</u> single most dynamic and varied wine region on the face of the planet.</div>
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During that time, things have changed in so many ways – almost all for the better – with huge advances in the quality of the wines produced, fuelled in no small way by an influx of young, dynamic, quality-minded winemakers, who in turn have raised the bar for the older growers and the farmers who have gone independent, following the demise of the previously dominant wine co-operatives. In short, lovers of Languedoc and Roussillon wines have never had it so good. As I have said above, I honestly believe that the region is now the most dynamic in the world of wine, producing wines of just about every style and colour imaginable, at unprecedented levels of quality – and of course prices to suit every pocket.</div>
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I hardly need tell you that, since I first highlighted his work in 2010, Peter's journey towards (self-) publication of the second edition of his book has been long and arduous. I believe he did eventually manage to obtain a modicum of help - though seemingly more moral than financial - from one or two of the region's promotional organisations, but still not enough to finance a physical/hard copy book - yet.<br />
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However, I am so happy to announce that it has finally been published in iBook form. And having been given a sneak preview, I can confirm that <i><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/wines-winemakers-languedoc/id1067316489?ls=1&mt=11" target="_blank">Peter Gorley – The Wines And Winemakers Of Languedoc-Roussillon</a></i> has been well worth the wait. </div>
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And although the project originally had a working title of Gorleys Guide II (or GG2, as Peter called it) this is effectively a completely new book, bearing only a passing resemblance to the much smaller (and sadly out of print) "GG1".<br />
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At around 450 pages, with 15 chapters or “routes”, covering no less than 500 different growers, it is a comprehensive and beautifully illustrated guide, with useful maps and stunning photography, not to mention plenty of tips on what to see, where to eat and - bien sur - where to find the best wines.<br />
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Contact details and addresses (and website links, where available) are provided for every one of the 500 featured growers, with biographies and tasting notes ranging from a few lines to a couple of pages. The book is the result of a decade or so of hard graft on the visiting, tasting and writing trail, which has been translated beautifully and affectionately by Peter Gorley into a truly comprehensive guide. Indeed, a true Pièce de Résistance, and one which every lover of Languedoc-Roussillon, both aficionado and novice alike, should cherish.<br />
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<i><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/wines-winemakers-languedoc/id1067316489?ls=1&mt=11" target="_blank">Peter Gorley – The Wines And Winemakers Of Languedoc-Roussillon</a></i> is now available in the iBooks Store, at a bon rapport qualite-prix of just $15.99 / £12.99. For those who have yet to succumb to the joys of Apple technology, a version of the book in pdf format is also available at the same price, via Peter's <a href="http://petergorley.com/" target="_blank">website</a>.<br />
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I should point out that, although Peter and I have become good friends over the last few years, I myself have nothing to gain from the promotion of his book – apart from the warm glow of having received an honourable mention in the Acknowledgements section and a few name-checks in the various grower profiles(!)<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-41321394165406102472015-11-16T05:02:00.001+00:002015-11-16T05:02:34.667+00:00Domaine de Montesquiou - a fabulous quartet of dry and sweet Jurançon<div style="text-align: justify;">
My Facebook friends (no doubt some of whom are also readers of this blog) will have seen <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204901578126008&set=a.1138086619145.2020223.1436761736&type=3&theater" target="_blank">a post from me a few weeks ago</a>, extolling the virtues of a rather fabulous wine, which was a sample sent to me along with my previous pallet of wines from Domaine de Montesquiou. Problem was that it arrived in December 2014 - and I only actually discovered it a couple of months back! Furthermore, the label told practically nothing about what was in the bottle, and I was reluctant to open it until I knew a little more about it. A flurry of email correspondence with winemaker Fabrice Montesquiou eventually revealed that it was a (almost) dry white, essentially a Jurançon Sec, but with more residual sugar than allowed for it to qualify for that particular AOP. Hence, it is labelled as a "humble" Vin de France. Of course, as I have often opined, some of France's very best wines are - for a variety of reasons - labelled as such. And this was a very special wine indeed. And although that wine was from the 2013 vintage, I have managed to get my hands on some of the 2014, which is every bit as good! I'll explain in more detail a little later.</div>
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Meanwhile, here's a photo which illustrates what I have been occupying myself with, over the last few evenings.................</div>
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Yes, my latest pallet from Domaine de Montesquiou has arrived this week! All are from the 2014 vintage, and mostly bottled less than 2 months ago, so surely yet to really get into their stride. But boy are they good already! Here are my tasting notes.............</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_de_Montesquiou.html#a32" target="_blank">Domaine de Montesquiou l'Estela 2014 Jurançon Sec</a></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-igbpcR4ftNI/VkZB0Vlr9DI/AAAAAAAAE-s/nsY9MAf4k9s/s1600/Montesquioul%2527Estela2010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-igbpcR4ftNI/VkZB0Vlr9DI/AAAAAAAAE-s/nsY9MAf4k9s/s1600/Montesquioul%2527Estela2010.JPG" /></a></div>
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50% Gros Manseng, 10% Petit Manseng, 40% Courbu. Clear, pale, shiny silvery-gold colour. The nose offers a complex array of freshly-cut lime, orange peel and hay aromas, delightfully prickly and with an almost palpable minerally, smoky depth - a fabulous nose! Hints of peach/apricot add just a suggestion of richness, which manifests itself on the palate and offers a generosity that I haven't encountered in previous vintages of this cuvée. It really is delightfully concentrated and intense, yet wonderfully fresh and mouth-watering, in a zesty, appley, earthy, mineral sort of way. In fact, you would be hard pressed to find a wine of this sort of structure and class at twice the price. An absolute delight and by some distance the best vintage of this cuvée that I have tasted. 13.5% abv. £9.95.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_de_Montesquiou.html#a37" target="_blank">Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvade Préciouse 2014 Jurançon Sec</a></b><br />
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60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, 10% Camaralet. Bright, medium-pale, limpid gold colour. Intense! And very complex, too - aromas of lime oil and orange peel, with a generous portion of apple pie with raisins and hints of exotic fruits, not to mention a pot-pourri of herbs and spices. Having been bottled in September 2015, at the time of writing (November 2015) it takes a full day or more after opening to really open-up, but one's patience is richly rewarded. Although this wine spends 10 or so months in barrel, the oak influence is ever so subtle, allowing the fruit to shine through on the palate. It is concentrated but bone-dry (with just 2 g/l residual sugar), beautifully balanced, taut and structured, full of zesty lime/orange fruit, herb and spice and even a hint of grape tannin. As ever, though, the qualities that shine through more than anything are the intense, stony/steely minerality and tab-tingling acidity, which carry the fruit all the way through to a very long finish. Another truly life-affirming wine. 14.0% abv. £11.95.<br />
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And now, a little background information about *that* wine............<br />
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To qualify for the Jurançon Sec appellation, the residual sugar in the finished wine must not exceed 4 grammes per litre. Depending on picking dates (the harvest is carried out in several tranches or "tries" - sometimes by necessity, as they have a limited number of vats) the potential alcohol levels in the grapes can be anywhere between 13% and 16.5%, especially for Petit Manseng. For the later-picked grapes, converting all of the sugars to alcohol can prove problematic, at least at the relatively low fermentation temperature Fabrice prefers. Because of this, they occasionally experience a "stuck" alcoholic fermentation with at least one of the vats intended for Cuvade Préciouse. And whilst it is possible to kick-start the fermentation again (by increasing the temperature) Fabrice feels that this would not be true to the style of Jurançon Sec he is looking for. The upshot is that, with a little blending, as and when necessary prior to barrel ageing, he is able to make two distinct cuvées; Cuvade Préciouse, from (mostly) earlier-picked grapes, with 2 g/l of residual sugar and 14.0% abv, and Terre de France, from the later-picked grapes, with 10 g/l of residual sugar and 14.5% abv. Just a few barrels of the latter are made (no more than 4, so by my calculation, around 1200 bottles) and then only when the vintage conditions dictate. 2013 was the first vintage, and it was made again in 2014, but none was made in 2015 - so if you want some, don't wait too long!<br />
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This certainly isn't your typical "super cuvée" - it is a wine made largely by necessity, rather than design. And although the residual sugar means that it can only qualify as a "humble" Vin de France, it exhibits all of the qualities of Cuvade Préciouse - only with the volume turned up to 11(!) Yet despite its inherent richness and concentration, it possesses all of that wonderful acidity and minerality so typical of great Jurançon Sec, so it should (in my humble opinion) be treated as an essentially dry - albeit extremely versatile - table wine. Here's my tasting note................. </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_de_Montesquiou.html#a45" target="_blank">Domaine de Montesquiou Terre de France 2014 Vin de France</a></b><br />
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65% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, 5% Camaralet. The nose offers masses of honeyed, sweet-smelling quince and apricot aromas, laced with aromatic herbs and spices, orange blossom, honeysuckle and a judicious lick of oak. And yet it still has that lifted lime oil and mineral quality so typical of Jurançon Sec - you can literally smell the acidity and immense freshness, even before you take a sip. Indeed, for a wine with such immense concentration (and an abv of 14.5%) it really is quite staggeringly juicy and refreshing, with barely a hint of alcohol, and the most complex array of flavours you are ever likely to encounter in a young, dry white wine. It manages to combine the same zesty lime/orange fruit, herb and spice qualities as Cuvade Préciouse, not to mention similar levels of acidity and minerality, whilst achieving perhaps even more depth and elegance. I'm not sure if my enthusiasm for this wine is quite clear enough, but just in case it isn't, I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that it is the loveliest white wine to have passed my lips this year - indeed for many a year. If it were Burgundy (for there are indeed certain structural similarities) it would be a top 1er Cru at the very least. It really is utterly wonderful and more-ish. And at the price, a really quite remarkable bargain! 14.5% abv. £11.95.</div>
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And last but certainly not least..........</div>
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<b style="text-align: start;"><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_de_Montesquiou.html#a105" target="_blank">Domaine de Montesquiou Grappe d'Or 2014 Jurançon</a></b></div>
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100% Petit Manseng. The grapes for this wine are harvested deep into November, by which time they have begun to dry on the vine, concentrating the flavours, whilst retaining all of the bracing acidity which is the hallmark of Petit Manseng. The colour is a very enticing shiny, rich yellow-gold. Goodness me, what a fabulous nose! The intensity pricks (or more appropriately caresses) the senses, offering a veritable orchard-ful of sweet apple, apricot, mango and passion fruit aromas, with further notes of dessicated orange peel, root ginger, cove and fig. Trust me, it's all in there! Take a sip and you are transported to vinous heaven. It is palpably sweet, luscious and full-bodied, whilst at the same time supremely balanced, courtesy of the most glorious, tangy, citrussy acidity and earthy minerality. You could *almost* imagine drinking this as a main course wine (think chicken, duck or sweet and sour pork), but the rich, sweet/tangy palate makes for a match made in heaven for starters such as patés, fois gras or smoked mackerel. Or of course it is equally suited to desserts (lemon or apple-based tarts and puddings) or soft cheeses. A stunning wine! 13.0% abv. £15.95.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uGXuhK_fd4I/VklcWRElWAI/AAAAAAAAFAA/Ywxt0Unus4s/s1600/2006-08-24%2B008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="532" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uGXuhK_fd4I/VklcWRElWAI/AAAAAAAAFAA/Ywxt0Unus4s/s640/2006-08-24%2B008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fabrice Montesquiou amongst the vines - taken during my visit in June 2006. <br />Time for another visit in 2016, methinks!</i></td></tr>
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Incidentally, during my recent flurry of correspondence with Fabrice, I asked him about Camaralet. This is a grape variety mentioned on most of the back labels of Domaine de Montesquiou's wines (except Terre de France, which doesn't mention any varieties), although I had never seen it listed in any of their "fiche techniques". Indigenous to south-west France, Camaralet is apparently very rare, these days, even in its home region, to the point where it has recently been on the verge of exctintion. Although known to have a fine aromatic and flavour profile, it has small berries in loose clusters and generally produces low yields, and is also susceptible to grey rot. But with the high trellising favoured by Domaine de Montesquiou (which allows the air to circulate freely around the vines) this is obviously less of a problem, although yields are unpredictable and vary from vintage to vintage. They planted more Camaralet vines in 2014, which should come into production in 2017 or 2018. It's great to see such passion for reviving these old, almost-forgotten grape varieties, from one of the finest growers it has ever been my privilege to be associated with.<br />
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All of the new wines from Domaine de Montesquiou are now available for you to buy (just click the links above the notes) - and bargains every one of them!<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-35698768491603179012015-10-07T18:03:00.003+01:002015-10-07T18:03:54.259+01:00The wines of Domaine Gigou<div style="text-align: justify;">
A good many years ago, one of the members of Nottingham Wine Circle (a big fan of Bordeaux wines and an even bigger fan of the Loire) presented a selection of wines from Le Loir. No, not "La Loire" (the big river) but "Le Loir", one of its tributaries slightly to the north. And I have to admit that, whilst I found the white wines (based on Chenin Blanc) rather delicious, I hated the reds. Or at least I thought I did.</div>
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Fast forward a few years and the same person presented a similar tasting and I loved them all. I suspect that, having cut my wine-drinking teeth on the likes of Aussie Shiraz, Cali Cabs, rich southern Rhone blends and, latterly, wines from the sunny south of France, my palate had been incapable of appreciating (or simply too inexperienced to appreciate) the nuances and subtleties of wines grown in the relatively cool north/central part of France where the Loire Valley is situated. Indeed, Le Loir is even further north, being situated midway between Le Mans and Tours.</div>
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A couple of years ago, whilst on the way down south, we visited a couple of growers in Le Loir and I tentatively thought about importing some of the wines. It didn't happen - one of the main reasons being that I still had almost a pallet's-worth of German wines sitting in the bonded warehouse that nobody seemed to want to buy. And if I couldn't sell top-notch German Rieslings, how the hell would I sell wines from unknown growers in the least-known part of the Loire Valley, (no matter how much I myself loved them)?!</div>
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Anyway, fast forward yet another couple of years to June 2015, and TLD and I found ourselves making an overnight stop at the very splendid Hotel de France in La Chartre sur Le Loir...... which just happens to be situated on the banks of Le Loir, smack dab in the middle of the Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières appellations. Indeed, one the very best growers was less than a mile down the road. And so we found ourselves next morning visiting Domaine Gigou for a tasting of some truly excellent wines - and resolving once again to import them. After all, our mantra (a rather important one, in the fickle world of selling wine) has always been "if we can't sell it, at least we will enjoy drinking it"!</div>
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The Jasnières white wines of Le Loir are - like Touraine to the south - based on Chenin Blanc (sometimes known locally as Pineau Blanc de La Loire). The Coteaux du Loir reds are based on a fairly obscure variety called Pineau d'Aunis - which is rather confusingly also known locally as Chenin Noir! Gamay also gets a look in, either as part of the blend of Coteaux du Loir or as simple Vin de France. I'm not sure of its origins (and I have yet to look it up) but Pineau d'Aunis actually has more in common with Pinot Noir than anything else, both aromatically and in flavour/structure - lighter in body, and invariably with a peppery bite, but still with a profile that every Burgundy aficionado would recognise. It certainly won't appeal to everyone, but it certainly puts a smile on my face these days.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1zn-CFEzpA/VhVJXHnENnI/AAAAAAAAE0k/d7pujdXOGbY/s1600/Gigoufamily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1zn-CFEzpA/VhVJXHnENnI/AAAAAAAAE0k/d7pujdXOGbY/s400/Gigoufamily.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Gigou family (image courtesy of the Gigou website)</i></td></tr>
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The Gigou family have been making wine in the region for over 40 years - Joel and his wife Sylvie created the estate in 1974, with son Ludovic becoming part of the team in 1998 and daughter Dorothy joining a few years ago. Domaine Gigou is without doubt one of the most respected and traditional growers in Le Loir, producing a range of dry and semi-sweet Chenin Blanc white wines and some deliciously quirky, fruity, spicy, sappy wines from both Pinot d'Aunis and Gamay. They farm a dozen or so hectares of vines, from various vineyards dotted around the region, on a variety of soils/terroirs. They farm organically (indeed, they also employ various biodynamic principles) and use only the natural yeasts on the grapes for fermentation. The wines are aged in vaulted troglodyte caves (typical of the Loire valley) in a mix of stainless steel vats and very old oak and chestnut barrels, and are bottled and released only when they are ready to drink - or at least approachable, for they will age for a good few years, especially the whites.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WtghXKeIy-Y/VhVJrRsEJCI/AAAAAAAAE0s/lCuqVPMB_ho/s1600/Gigouvaults.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WtghXKeIy-Y/VhVJrRsEJCI/AAAAAAAAE0s/lCuqVPMB_ho/s400/Gigouvaults.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The vaulted cellars (image courtesy of the Gigou website)</i></td></tr>
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According to Richard Kelley MW (undoubtedly one of the most respected authorities on the wines of Le Loir and La Loire) <i>"The Gigou’s wines are the epitome of the old, traditional style of Jasnières, and they are justifiably proud of the fact. They are the reference point for this style of wine in the region and ........... are great ambassadors for these two appellations."</i></div>
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And if you would like to read more about Domaine Gigou, together with numerous tasting notes which testify to both the high quality and ageing ability of their wines, see <a href="http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/valduloir_gigou.htm" target="_blank">Richard Kelley's full grower profile</a></div>
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Meanwhile, here are my notes on a selection of Gigou wines, which are now available for you to buy, via the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines online shop;</div>
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Gigou.html#a635" target="_blank">Domaine Gigou Pineau d'Aunis 2012 Coteaux du Loir</a> </div>
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Not for lovers of big, rich, jammy wines, this is light, sappy and ethereal, with oodles of tart wild strawberry, raspberry, red cherry and rhubarb aromas and flavours. Beautifully dry and peppery, with lemony hints - really mouth-watering and more-ish, with a long, tangy/spicy finish. Think of a village Burgundy from a cool(ish) year, but with a little less tannin and more fruit, and you're there. Many inexperienced drinkers would find it rather thin and acidic - as indeed I did, a few years ago - but this is a style of wine I have grown to love. It really is deliciously yummy and saliva-inducing stuff! 12.0% abv. £11.40</div>
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Gigou.html#a654" target="_blank">Domaine Gigou Cuvée Gigou'T Gamay 2009 Vin de France</a> </div>
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Although this is 100% Gamay, the resemblance to a minor Burgundy Pinot Noir is uncanny. I guess that has something to do with the traditional maceration (rather than carbonic) and the more northerly climate in which this is grown. Quite a deep colour, with a nose of raspberry and soused black cherry and hints of black pepper and undergrowth. The palate is superficially light and airy, with abundant red and black fruit flavours, plenty of tangy, cherry kernel acidity, just the right level of rustic tannic grip and a gentle peppery, stoney/mineral bite. It isn't a particularly serious wine, but it hit all the right notes when tasted on a pleasant late summer's evening - and was a great match for a barbecued steak and new potatoes with a tomato and green salad. A deliciously light, airy, food-friendly wine. 13.0% abv. £11.95
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Gigou.html#a655" target="_blank">Domaine Gigou Jus de Terre 2013 Jasnières</a> </div>
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Medium yellow/gold colour with a slight orange hue. A nose of apple and citrus, with hints of honey and nuts, intense slatey minerality, wet straw and perhaps even the merest suggestion of botrytis - a classic Chenin Blanc nose, full of complexity. There is real ripeness here, but the palate is pretty much bone dry, with citrus and apple fruit flavours countered again by intense minerality and deliciously searing acidity. And that slight hint of botrytis adds a touch of contrariness to the proceedings, whilst the finish is long and tangy. A lovely, classic, old-style Chenin Blanc. 12.2% abv. £12.50
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Gigou.html#a656" target="_blank">Domaine Gigou Clos Saint Jacques 2013 Jasnières</a> </div>
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Bright, medium-deep orange/gold colour. The nose offers complex white fruit, citrus, honey and floral aromas, with a pronounced herbaceousness and hints of lanolin and emulsion paint. The palate is beautifully clean, tight and focused, almost bone dry, with intense, juicy, lemon, lime and gooseberry fruit and equally intense, steely minerality. It really is a most wonderfully mouth(and eye!)-watering wine, certainly not lacking in ripeness, but made in a traditional, bone-dry style. The faint-hearted may find it somewhat austere, but I find it dangerously drinkable (with or without food), although it certainly has the structure to age for years, if not decades. The more I sip it, the more I love it! Long too. Another brilliant, old-style Chenin Blanc. 12.0% abv. £14.30
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<a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Gigou.html#a661" target="_blank">Domaine Gigou Selection Raisins Nobles 2010 Jasnières</a> </div>
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A glorious medium-deep amber/gold colour. The nose is equally glorious - classic late-harvest Chenin Blanc aromas of lime oil, bruised apple, raisin and orange peel, accompanied by pronounced wet stone/flint and wet wool notes and subtle hints of preserved root ginger and beeswax. I'm not sure how much botrytis the 2010 vintage enjoyed, but I suspect this is more in the way of passerillé (grapes dried on the vine) because, whilst the texture is rich and gently honeyed, it is tremendously focused and tightly-structured. With a fair amount of residual sugar, the palate falls somewhere between demi-sec and moelleux. Layer upon layer of preserved white fruits, honey, lime oil and mandarin orange coat the tongue, with the oily/honeyed texture offset by a massive layer of stoney minerality and fantastically eye-watering apple/citrus-tinged acidity. The combination of - or perhaps the contrast between - lush, sweet, raisined fruit, mineral tang and elevated acidity really is something to behold, and makes for a wonderfully contrary wine, with a long, lingering, spicy, bitter-sweet finish. An outstandingly brilliant wine, which will probably be even greater in another 10-20 years - and certainly a match for the very best sweet wines of La Loire. 12.5% abv. £19.99</div>
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Incidentally, the delightful <a href="http://www.lhoteldefrance.fr/" target="_blank">Hotel de France</a> (mentioned above) in La Chartre sur Le Loir makes for a perfect stopover, if you are ever on your way to/from the south of France. It is a beautiful Logis de France hotel, with an excellent restaurant, situated in the heart of the town. And since it is only around 20km from the famous Le Mans circuit, it also happens to be a favourite haunt of many race fans and teams, during the week leading up to the 24 Hour race. Which means that you have a chance of bumping into some rather legendary names from the racing world.........</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRK4ke619GI/VhVPqK4kutI/AAAAAAAAE08/u2dRgVT5GTA/s1600/DerekBell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRK4ke619GI/VhVPqK4kutI/AAAAAAAAE08/u2dRgVT5GTA/s640/DerekBell.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Yours truly, with a certain Derek Bell, 4-time winner of the Le Mans 24 Hour race, outside Hotel de France. <br />Nice chap, though he seemed to question my taste in shirts! ;-)</i></td></tr>
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More soon. A bientot!</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-80754717985631829342015-05-13T13:33:00.000+01:002015-05-13T13:33:46.151+01:00Ahahr (revisited)! More wines from the Ahr ValleyI know - like buses, you wait for ages for a blog post from me, then two come along at once! Anyway, as promised in my previous post (of literally minutes ago) here's one I wrote earlier, using my new little smart phone gizmos...............<br />
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These are my notes from a recent tasting of wines from the (relatively under-the-radar) Ahr Valley region of Germany. This follows on from a <a href="http://leonstolarski.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Ahr%20Valley" target="_blank">similar tasting in November 2010</a>, and the wines certainly seem to be on the up. Just two growers were featured in the latest tasting, namely Weingut Meyer-Näkel and Weingut Kreuzberg, and the prices (from the cellar door) seemed eminently reasonable. As with the 2010 tasting, the wines were presented by Kevin and Ena-Marie Scott, who are regular visitors to the region. Apologies for the standard of the photo, by the way, but it was the only one I took - and is useful, if only to illustrate how Ahr Valley growers for some reason like to put their top Pinot Noir wines into tall bottles!<br />
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<b>1. Meyer-Näkel 2012 Illusion No 1 Blanc de Noir</b><br />
A decent, if rather unremarkable, fizz.<br />
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<b>2. Kreuzberg 2013 Blanc de Noir</b><br />
Nettles and Pears, apples and a touch of wet wool. Lots of acidity, but not a lot else - again, unremarkable.<br />
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<b>3. Meyer-Näkel 2013 Weissburgunder</b><br />
A bit more like it, with some varietal character, albeit in a slightly sicky way. Nice rich, fruity and slightly nutty on the palate, with plenty of juicy acidity and steely minerality. Decent stuff.<br />
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<b>4. Meyer-Näkel 2013 Riesling</b><br />
Cut limes and mineral/Stone. Slightly herbaceous and a hint of orange, which shows even more on the palate. Otherwise, very steely and high acid, but quite enjoyable, though not a lot of Riesling character.<br />
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<b>5. Kreuzberg 2013 Spätburgunder</b><br />
All sour cherries and tobacco, with a tiny hint of oak. Sour red and black cherries on the palate, with a real /asp of lemon juice and quite tarry tannins. Young but promising. €10.80.<br />
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<b>6. Meyer-Näkel 2009 Spätburgunder</b><br />
€10.80. Meat and tobacco on the nose, hints of damp earth. Rich and concentrated, almost sweet, jammy fruit - Stops just short of NZ Style OTT-ness. Quite complex, but a little short on acidity. Decent, but not special.<br />
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<b>7. Meyer-Näkel 2013 "G"</b><br />
This does smell more Burgundian, akin to a Nuits Saint-Georges. Subtle dark cherry and raspberry aromas, with minimal oak influence. Palate is lovely, with Sour Cherry and a slight bitterness that actually contributes to the freshness and structure, with ripe tannins and good acidity. Very good stuff. €14-ish.<br />
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<b>8. Meyer-Näkel 2008 "G"</b><br />
Smoky, slightly bretty nose, almost shitty, with a touch of Band Aid. Palate is really quite dull and flat. Over the hill? I think so.<br />
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<b>9. Meyer-Näkel 2013 Frühburgunder</b><br />
Elegant, complex nose, ranging from red cherry to mandarin Orange, with tobacco and herbs. A nice prickle to the palate, with good acidity and soft tannins, allied to bright red fruits and soft citrus. Manages to be complex and elegant and easy-drinking at the same time. Lovely.<br />
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<b>10. Kreuzberg 2009 Unplugged</b><br />
Ooh, yum! Complex, elegant fruits and damp earth, tobacco and herbs. Lovely palate, pure, high-toned, cherry and raspberry, fine tannins, lemony acidity, elegant and really lovely. Cracking wine.<br />
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<b>11. Kreuzberg 2013 Neuenahrer</b><br />
Dirty, slightly musty nose, but not detrimental to the wine itself. Again, very sprightly, almost lemony, tight, but really quite enjoyable, in a youthful way. Probably wont age, but why wait. Very nice. €13.50.<br />
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<b>12. Kreuzberg 2009 Neuenahrer Schieferay</b><br />
Classy nose, tobacco and earth, subtle oak. Another complex wine, with masses of sour cherry and raspberry fruit, earthy notes, a hint of mixed spice and herb, polished wood and myriad other things going on. This is *really* cracking wine! A stunner. €17-ish, so great vfm.
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<b>13. Meyer-Näkel 2012 Blauschiefer</b><br />
Equally complex, in a savory, meaty way, with plenty of underlying fruit, hints of flowers. Again, a slight spritzy bite, which heightens the sense of an elegant, complex, fruit-filled wine. Soft tannins, but plenty of juicy acidity, not to mention a really quite Burgundian structure and flavour profile. Really delicious and reasonable value at around €24.<br />
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<b>14. Kreuzberg 2009 Devonschiefer</b><br />
Very Morey-St-Denis, with its exotic spice-laden fruit nose, a gentle meatiness and a touch of damp earth. The palate also reminds me of MSD, with soft spice, raspberry and strawberry fruit, a welcome touch of jamminess and excellent structure. Another winner, which I can see ageing nicely for a few years. Lovely.<br />
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<b>15. Meyer-Näkel 2012 "S"</b><br />
This is another really good wine, which - almost in spite of its similarily to NZ Pinot - hits the Spot in many ways. Tarry, quite rich, but still nicely balanced, if not reaching the heights of the previous few wines. Still very good, though!<br />
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<b>16. Kreuzberg 2008 Schieferlay "GG"</b><br />
Deeper, darker, but with some elegance. Again, more NZ than Burg, albeit very good. I just like it less than some of the more recent vintages.<br />
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<b>17. Meyer-Näkel 2006 Demauer Fruhburgunder Pfarrwingert</b><br />
There is a good wine in here, but the slight oxidation or madeirisation gets in the way.
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In conclusion, I would say that (as with the 2010 tasting) the whites from the Ahr region are decent but unexciting. The reds, on the other hand, are getting better and better - and are in some cases genuinely world class.<br />
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If you would like more information on these two growers, here are links to their own websites........<br />
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<a href="http://www.weingut-kreuzberg.de/en/vineyard/history/" target="_blank">Weingut Kreuzberg</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.meyer-naekel.de/en/" target="_blank">Weingut Meyer-Näkel</a><br />
Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-46806652872831327342015-05-13T13:19:00.000+01:002015-05-13T13:19:12.778+01:00Isn't technology wonderful?! A pair of new apps that have just made my life a lot easier.Yes, I know that it has - once again - been a while. But this time I might be back for good, as I have news of a couple of "apps" I have discovered, both of which are free, which will hopefully facilitate much more action on this blog than there has been over the last year or more.<br />
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Firstly, <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.handwriting.ime&hl=en" target="_blank">Google Handwriting Input</a> is the sort of thing that I have been searching for, for a very long time - namely, the ability to use a stylus (or indeed just my index finger) to write on the screen of my smart phone (in my case, a Samsung S4 Mini, with Android). I simply scribble away at whatever it is I want to write, and - hey presto! - it converts my writing to text in whatever application I am in at the time, be it text messaging, Facebook, Twitter, or indeed anything at all that would normally require me to type into my phone. As with most things that are new to us, it takes just a little bit of getting used to, but it really is quite intuitive, and any errors that it makes are usually down to my terrible handwriting. These are easily spotted, and it only takes a couple of clicks on the backspace button to correct. That said, I find that my mistakes are getting fewer, since it appears to develop something akin to predictive text, in that it seems to recognise unusual words or names that I have written previously - which comes in very useful when I need to write so many foreign wine names and places. It even recognises accents on letters - é, ô, ü, etc. All-in-all, a very useful little application, which renders the keypad (and in many circumstances, the keyboard) redundant.<br />
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One of the best things about the Handwriting app for me is that I no longer need to go through the laborious task of writing notes (with a pen and paper/notebook) and then sitting down at the desktop computer and typing them into a document or application. For instance, as my customers and friends know, I write full tasting notes of every single wine I sell via the <a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/" target="_blank">Leon Stolarski Fine Wines</a> website, which was always a necessary but somewhat painful task. But now I can open a bottle of wine of an evening, take a photo and then swirl, sniff and sip to my heart's content, whilst writing my note into a Facebook post. I can therefore kill two birds with one stone, by boring my Facebook friends about what I am drinking *and* writing a "live" tasting note to add to the website (or indeed this blog). Who said men can't multi-task?! ;-)<br />
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The second app I have installed is called <a href="https://keep.google.com/" target="_blank">Google Keep</a>, which is essentially a note-taking organiser. For those of you who remember the 80's, think Filofax, but without the hassle - or indeed the shame of actually being seen with one (and I never dared buy one)! Google Keep offers me the facility to write notes "on the go", in conjunction with the Handwriting app, which are then recorded for posterity in the cloud. You can also take photos from within the app, which are stored with the relevant note. An even more amazing function of Google Keep - especially for someone like me, who still looks on in wonder, as a large airliner magically lifts off from the ground - is that you can take a photograph of a printed document, press a button and have it "grab" the text. Which comes in very useful when faced with (for instance) a long tasting sheet at a wine presentation. So with the name of each wine already written for me by the app, I then simply write my notes underneath. Isn't technology wonderful?<br />
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I should add that - at least from a personal point of view - I don't see the above technology as having replaced the good old desktop computer. Sometimes, it is easier to simply sit down and use a keyboard and a mouse - and I don't see that changing for a good while yet. Indeed, this post was written in that way. But my next post (which will follow almost immediately) will have been compiled almost exclusively on my little phone, before being copied and pasted into Blogger............<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-28357345022430605242015-01-21T14:25:00.002+00:002015-01-21T15:07:39.892+00:00Top Cru Beaujolais - Domaines Piron and Lardy<div style="text-align: justify;">
I have been promising to write-up the notes from this rather excellent tasting, ever since it took place in October 2014. It was the result of a summer visit by Nottingham Wine Circle members David Bennett and Peter Bamford to the domaines of Dominique Piron and Lucien Lardy. I don't have much technical information about the viticultural or vinicultural practices of either grower, though I assume David or Peter might chip-in with some info in the comments section. There are links to both growers' websites at the bottom of this post.</div>
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By way of full disclosure, I am told by David and Peter that whilst the Piron wines were sold to them at "trade" prices, the wines from Lucien Lardy were very kindly provided free of charge, specifically for this tasting. Not that there is ever any obligation to publish notes on every wine given away by growers. But in this case, it would be a shame not to do so, since the wines - and especially those from Lucien Lardy - are well worthy of merit. From what I am told, Dominique Piron is hailed as one of *the* stars of the region, whilst Lucien Lardy seems to be flying somewhat under the radar............... </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>David Bennett (left) and Peter Bamford (right). Apologies for the grainy photo, taken with my phone. Then again, with these two, the softer the focus, the better!</i></td></tr>
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<b>Beaujolais Blanc, “La Chanaise”, Dominique Piron, 2013</b> </div>
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Vanilla and lemon, like a fresh-from-the-oven lemon layer pudding. The palate seems a bit one-dimensional and flat. Decent enough, but boring. </div>
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<b>Beaujolais Blanc, Chardonnay, Lucien Lardy, 2013</b>
** </div>
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This is really good stuff and, frankly, knocks the Piron into a cocked hat. Identifiably Macon Chardonnay – lemon, apple, minerality, lovely acidity, floral. Yummy! </div>
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<b>Brouilly, Dominique Piron, 2013</b>
** </div>
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Carbonic maceration? Boiled sweets and tar on the nose, quite floral, meaty too. Brioche. Lots of dark cherry and bramble fruit, lovely acidity and rich, ripe tannins. A lovely drink. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, Dominique Piron, 2013</b> **+ </div>
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Totally different to the Brouilly above. Smoke, meat, mushroom, iodine, earth, with subtle floral and mineral notes. The palate is contrary – elegant and fine, with more structure – tannins are lighter but grippier. Sour cherry, steely minerality. Long, warming and really lovely. </div>
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<b>Morgon, “Côte du Py”, Dominique Piron, 2013</b>
*** </div>
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Dark, with cherry, meat and floral aromas. Quite northern Rhone, but also quite Cote d’Or - not a bad mix! Ripe and even rich, but very classy and beautifully made. The range of flavours – savoury/fruit/mineral - is exceptional and the balance is spot on. This will be even better in 5-8 years. A really brilliant wine.</div>
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<b>Morgon, “Côte du Py”, Dominique Piron, 2012</b> * </div>
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Apparently 2012 was a disastrous Beaujolais vintage, and I guess it shows in this wine.Very dumb nose. Sniff hard and you get iodine, raspberry, lapsang tea, earth. The palate has hints of emulsion paint, mineral and earth. There is some fruit, but it is all rather lean and graceless (in comparison to 2013’s). </div>
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<b>Régnié, Domaine de la Croix Penet, “Croix Penet”, Dominique Piron, 2012 </b></div>
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Again, iodine/mineral, earth, a hint of meat, quite tannic and extracted, and seemingly having had too much time in barrel. Decent, but not distinguished. </div>
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<b>Chénas, Domaine Piron-Lameloise, “Quartz”, Dominique Piron, 2011</b>
* </div>
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Earthy, meaty (there’s a trend here), ripe, with notes of blueberry muffin and tar. Earthy, dense; lots of ripe, chocolatey tannins and lots of oak. This needs lots of time, though I reserve judgment. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, “Lardy”, Lucien Lardy, 2012</b> ** </div>
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Complex, in a way that nothing leaps out, but there is plenty going on. Lots of small, sweet, wild strawberry and raspberry, hints of leather and herbs, flowers. This isn’t a show-off – rather it speaks quietly but carefully. Balanced, beautifully structured and elegant. This really is very classy stuff and was a true bargain at €7 from the cellar door. A cracker. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, “Les Chènes”, Lucien Lardy, 2011</b> **+ </div>
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What a lovely nose! Elegant, full of subtle berry and red cherry fruits, both fresh and crystallised, yin and yang, with a touch of oak, but very carefully done. This is beautifully elegant, balanced, classy. A really lovely wine. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, “Les Chènes du Vivier”, Lucien Lardy, 2011</b> **+</div>
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Another lovely nose - Love Hearts (remember them?) and a lick of classy oak (new, I suspect), but with lots of earthy, minerally, floral and other things going on. The palate is already so elegant, soft yet compelling. I could drink this now, but it has lots of potential. Another lovely wine. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, “Les Moriers, Vieilles Vignes”, Lucien Lardy, 2012</b> **+</div>
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Smells of seared steak – char-grilled. Once again, some oak is evident, but the effect is subtle, with all of the emphasis on fruit – bramble and cassis, black cherry. Complex and compelling wine. This guy makes great wines! Another to drink or keep. </div>
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<b>Fleurie, “Les Moriers, Vieilles Vignes”, Lucien Lardy, 2011</b> **++ </div>
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I’m losing track and running short of adjectives. Sweet fruit nose (fresh and crystallised), aubergine (apparently), slow roasted beef / gravy, hints of flowers. The palate is once again so complex, so approachable, yet full of verve and truly multi-dimensional. Again, some oak, but the fruit is more than ample. Hints of iodine, cough medicine, mint, jam, bread. Uber complex and utterly delicious.</div>
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In conclusion, though some of the Piron reds showed very well, it is worth noting that the best were all from the stellar 2013 vintage, whilst the 2011's and 2012's were pretty average, at least to my palate. The Lardy reds, on the other hand, were all 2011 and 2012 - and without exception, they were all truly delicious. Suffice to say I would love to see what sort of wines he made in the fabulous 2013 vintage!</div>
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All of which goes to show that the old adage rings true - it's not about the vintage, it's about the grower. Having said that, one should never assume blindly that a grower's wines are necessarily worthy of their lofty reputation. Ultimately, Piron may be the star, but the Lardy wines were considered by pretty much all those present to be the purest, most structured and most elegant of the two. Indeed, were I to dip my (commercial) toe into the Beaujolais market again (which is unlikely, since I always found it such a hard sell, for some reason) then I would be banging Monsieur Lardy's door down, in order to get my hands on his wines! </div>
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Grower websites; </div>
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<a href="http://www.domaines-piron.fr/" target="_blank">Dominique Piron</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.terroirs-originels.com/en/artisans-vignerons/lucien_lardy.php" target="_blank">Lucien Lardy</a></div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-23597831755136057852014-11-21T09:18:00.001+00:002014-11-21T09:21:00.193+00:00Heads-up for an excellent new Languedoc blog<div style="text-align: justify;">
Wot - 2 blog posts in a day?! Well, I thought that whilst I was on such a roll, I would give you a pointer towards an excellent new(ish) blog, authored by one of my customers and Facebook friends, Alan March.</div>
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Alan retired this year, from his job as a school teacher in the north-east of England. Much like TLD and I, Alan and his wife have been holidaying in Languedoc for many years and have developed a great love for the region, it's culture and of course it's wines. So much so that they decided to make use of their new-found leisure and spend a whole year living the dream in rural Languedoc. Although they haven't (yet) decided to make the move permanent, I suspect that may be a strong possibility(!)</div>
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Not that it has suddenly become all play and no work for Alan. Over the years, he has formed a strong friendship with one of the region's most enigmatic winemakers, Jeff Coutelou. So much so that, since his arrival in Languedoc a couple of months ago, he has been hard at work as Jeff's all-round helper in the vines and the cellar, learning the ropes and generally immersing himself in the everyday workings of a Languedoc wine estate. Not to mention tasting plenty of fabulous wines along the way. It's a hard life, but I guess someone has to do it!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Alan March, hard at work in the cellar <br />(photo nicked from his blog!)</i></td></tr>
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Alan and I have yet to actually meet, although after many years of correspondence via this blog, Facebook, other wine websites and email, it seems like we know each-other well. And I won't let the fact that he is a Liverpool supporter (my loyalty is with Nottingham Forest) get in the way. Nor the fact that, whilst away from the UK, he isn't buying any of my wines! ;-) I actually owe Alan a debt of gratitude for having introduced me to the wines of Mas Coutelou. He'd been banging on about them for so long that I felt I needed to taste them and see for myself. So whilst on holiday in June, TLD and I visited Jeff and were treated to a fascinating tour of his vineyards and a tasting of some of his wines (even though he had none to sell, at the time). Suffice to say that I was blown away by Jeff's wines and his whole viticultural and vinicultural ethos. And, with more than a little help from Alan as my "man on the spot", I have since managed to secure a shipment of Jeff's latest wines, which will arrive in stock next week. I can't wait!</div>
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I shall write in more detail about Mas Coutelou very soon. Meanwhile, I urge you to take a look at Alan's blog, <a href="http://amarchinthevines.org/" target="_blank">A March In The Vines</a>. As a journal of his adventures in and around Languedoc (and occasionally further afield), it is rich in content and really is well worth following - and you even get to read it in a choice of languages (English and French). Keep up the good work, Alan!</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-15870405869469563182014-11-21T07:52:00.001+00:002014-11-21T07:52:43.432+00:00A wonderful new wine from Chateau La Dournie<div style="text-align: justify;">
I posted the following note on my Facebook page last evening and someone suggested that "it feels like a blog post". Which I must say did strike a chord with me - it isn't that I have disappeared from the social media scene (which I guess includes blogging), it is just that Facebook seems a much easier medium in which to post quick entries, directly from my phone. Then again, a lot of potential blog posts have gone this way in recent months, and it seems a shame not to spend a few minutes cross-posting them to my blog. Plus of course there are plenty more (sometimes much meatier) issues that deserve blog posts of their own. Therefore, you can take this as a commitment to start ramping-up the blogging again (yes, I know I've said it many times before, but now I'm serious!). Now if I can just shake off this horrible virus that has been bugging me for the last 3 weeks, I might just find the energy and enthusiasm to keep my promises....... ;-)</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Chateau_La_Dournie.html#a146" target="_blank">Chateau La Dournie "La Dournie" 2011 Saint-Chinian</a></b></div>
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This has the unmistakable whiff of a (very) fine wine...... a veritable cornucopia of fresh and preserved red and black fruits burst forth from the glass, combined with (but not to be out-done by) all manner of herbal, floral, medicinal, earthy and savoury aromas. Freshly baked bread/brioche also gets a look in, not to mention a hint of the very finest eau de vie you can think of. Oh and just the *faintest* lick of (older) oak. It really is quite the most complex, integrated and intoxicating wine I have sniffed in a while. If I didn't know better, I would swear there was some Syrah in there, but this is a blend of Grenache and Carignan, so I guess the classic Saint-Chinian terroir (schiste) has worked it's magic once again. There's always a danger that such a wonderful nose might end up as the highlight, but in this case not a bit of it - this wine is absolutely the real deal, with oodles of spice-laden, garrigue-infused black cherry and bramble fruit, rich, ripe tannins and a backbone of truly mouth-watering acidity. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XRr5yGM6WKE/VG7uR42X0FI/AAAAAAAAC0w/aY9ErCxtykQ/s1600/La%2BDournie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XRr5yGM6WKE/VG7uR42X0FI/AAAAAAAAC0w/aY9ErCxtykQ/s1600/La%2BDournie.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a>A rather well-known and respected wine writer and Languedoc expert described this very wine as "reminiscent more of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but not too heavy or alcoholic". Well I am here to tell you that the latter may be accurate, but the former is complete tosh. For although it may not be like your everyday Saint-Chinian, it does possess all of the vibrancy and elegance that the best wines from this (relatively cool-climate) region of Languedoc has to offer - and is therefore far more reminiscent of the wines of the northern Rhone. The more I drink it, the more I am falling for it's rich, sweet-sour, tangy-spicy-herby loveliness. Apparently, there were just 600 bottles of this wine produced for the inaugural 2011 vintage. And having not tasted it previously, I have to admit that I bought a shamefully tiny quantity. So small in fact that I will limit my customers to 3 bottles each. And at £21.95 (yes I know, expensive for Languedoc) it is a fantastic bargain. Bravo Véronique Etienne - you have created your masterpiece..... and please save me a few more cases for my next order!</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-60729063798101049262014-08-19T17:58:00.002+01:002014-08-19T18:09:14.989+01:00What I did with my summer - Plus a brand new book about the wines of Languedoc and Roussillon<div style="text-align: justify;">
OK, so my stated intention earlier in the year to start posting a little more on here has – at least until now – gone badly awry. I am putting the blame squarely on the shoulders of the fabulous summer we have (or do I mean had?) been enjoying. Not that I have necessarily been lazing around doing nothing, but when push comes to shove, working outside beats working inside. Hence, since we returned from our June holiday in Provence and Languedoc (about which more in due course) I have been busying myself with jobs I have been postponing for far too long, such as erecting the large wooden gates on my driveway (which had been “seasoning” against the kitchen wall for a full 2 years!).<br />
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<i>My beautiful new gates - our own little piece of southern France!</i></div>
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I've also spent many hours making various other renovations to the outside of the house, clearing and organising what TLD calls my “man cave” in the garage and – most time-consuming of all – tending the vegetables and fruits in my greenhouse and raised beds.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Goode Life - Tom and Barbara would be proud!</i></td></tr>
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The upshot is that we now have much more security and privacy (not to mention our own little piece of the south of France) courtesy of our beautiful new azure blue gates. Not to mention complete self-sufficiency in tomatoes, chillies, capsicums, cucumbers, beans, courgettes, shallots, onions, carrots, beetroots, lettuces and even some very successful frisée lettuces (yes I know, they are really endives). And in a few weeks, we should have corns on the cob galore!</div>
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The downside to all of this is, not surprisingly, is that most things wine-related (apart from drinking it, of course) have been put on the back burner. I have page after page of notes from numerous grower visits from my June holiday, which I haven't even begun to transcribe yet. I also have the bare bones of a new website, which I haven't touched for several months. And most importantly - and some would say most unforgivably - I have devoted very little time to the actual business of selling wine. That said, summer always tends to be the quietest period of all - and with the best will in the world, and effectively being a "one-man band", the 24/7 (365) wine business grind can sometimes be a bit wearing. At which point the multiple roles of head chef, housekeeper, gardener, handyman and all-round domestic super-hero make for a refreshing change. Furthermore, the great summer of sport - The World Cup, Le Tour, Wimbledon, golf (both watching and playing), motorcycling (ditto) and all manner of other things - has done little for my focus. But with summer seemingly morphing all too quickly into autumn, I guess it is time to regain that focus.......... </div>
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But I digress. The main thrust of this post is to tell you all about a new (and very welcome) book about the wines and vineyards of our beloved Languedoc and Roussillon. Until very recently, I wasn't familiar with the name of Wendy Gedney, although I had heard she had recently published a book about the region. During the second week of our June holiday, I called winemaker Brigitte Chevalier, to arrange a brief visit to taste the latest vintages of her fabulous Domaine de Cébène wines. She told me that she would be at her cellar in the hills of Faugères the following afternoon - and although she would be conducting a tasting for a group of visitors, TLD and I would be welcome to join in. And as chance would have it, this group was led by none other than Wendy Gedney, on one of the many wine tours that she organises, via her company Vin en Vacances. Naturally, Wendy and I got chatting about our respective lives in the wine trade and she kindly gave me a copy of her book, <b>The Wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon</b>. And I have to say, it is a delightful and very informative read.<br />
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The aim of this book is not to lead you to individual wines or wine growers - indeed, it only mentions the odd grower, in passing here and there, throughout the entire book. Rather, it offers an all-encompassing guide for the wine lover, with chapters covering the history of the region, the many and varied landscapes and terroirs, the grapes, the wine laws, the wine styles and viticulture. We are taken on a vinous journey from the Gard, in the far east of Languedoc, all the way to Banyuls and Collioure at the southern end of Roussillon, detailing the grapes, wines and terroir of every appellation and sub-appellation in-between.<br />
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Along the way, we learn about towns and villages of note, the stunning scenery, some of the region's notable food and drink specialities and lots more. The book is beautifully illustrated - not to mention greatly enhanced - by myriad specially commissioned colour maps, pencil drawings and watercolours by illustrator Jenny Baker.<br />
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Most importantly of all, it is a book which will appeal equally to seasoned wine enthusiasts and Languedoc-Roussillon aficionados, as well as those who are new to the region. Furthermore, since it's main purpose is to provide the reader with an all-round guide to the region and it's wines and vineyards - rather than keep up with the relentless pace of change and evolution amongst the wine-making fraternity - it is sure to remain relevant and topical for many years to come. And for that, it deserves a place on the bookshelf or coffee table of any self-respecting lover of Languedoc-Roussillon.<br />
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Whilst on the subject of books about the region's wines, many years have passed - and so much exciting progress has been made - since any sort of in-depth publication about the <b>growers and wines</b> has been published. Thankfully, the wait may almost be over, as my good friend Peter Gorley informs me that he is progressing quickly towards publication (initially, at least, in e-book form) of the second edition of Gorley's Guide to the Wines of Languedoc-Roussillon. 2014 is certainly shaping-up to be an excellent vintage for wine books!<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Books.html" target="_blank">"The Wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon"</a></b> by Wendy Gedney is now available via the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines online shop, priced at £19.95.<br />
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You can find out more about Wendy's wine tours, plus lots of tips on where to stay, via the <a href="http://www.vinenvacances.com/" target="_blank">Vin en Vacances website</a>.<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-77152211081386685292014-05-01T04:12:00.000+01:002014-05-01T17:26:53.324+01:00A new star in the Languedoc - Domaine Saint Sylvestre<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm not quite sure how it was that I came to hear about Domaine Saint Sylvestre, although I have a feeling it may have been via their Facebook page. In any event, my interest was suitably piqued by the information I found and the images of their vineyards, scattered amongst the wild, oak-covered hills of the Terrasses du Larzac, near the village of Puéchabon, just a few kilometres north-east of Aniane - historically one of the real hotbeds of Languedoc fine winemaking, with such esteemed growers as Mas de Daumas Gassac, Domaine de La Grange des Pères and Domaine de Montcalmès all situated close by. <br />
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Vincent Guizard became involved in viticulture from an early age, working in the vines with his grandfather and, in the late 1990's, he worked with Olivier Jullien at Mas Jullien. From 2003 to 2010, he was part owner, in association with Frédéric Pourtalié, of Domaine de Montcalmès.<br />
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At the end of 2010, Vincent decided to break away from Montcalmès, taking his 7 hectares of vines and creating Domaine Saint Sylvestre, together with his wife Sophie, who also has several years' experience in winemaking, as well as having previously spent some time in London, working for a wine marketing company.<br />
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Having corresponded with Sophie via Facebook, she invited me to visit the estate whilst on holiday in the region last June. And so it was that we arrived in Puéchabon, for our 10 o'clock rendezvous with Sophie, on a somewhat atypical gloomy, overcast early summer morning. Before tasting the wines, Sophie drove us up into the hills, along a series of tracks almost as rugged as the landscape itself, for a tour of the vineyards.<br />
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The estate currently comprises around 8 hectares, set in clearings among the holm oak forests above Puéchabon, and surrounding the isolated 12th century church of Saint Sylvestre des Brousses de Montcalmès. The vines are planted in four separate plots, all of which are between 300 and 350 metres above sea level; </div>
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<li>"Fon de La Coste" is mainly Syrah, planted in 1989 on clay/limestone soil, with a north-west-facing aspect. </li>
<li>"Saint Sylvestre" was planted in 1993, with Syrah and Grenache, on south-east-facing slopes, with a "topsoil" of galets roulés (similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape). </li>
<li>"Défriche de Rouges" (défriche meaning cleared forest) is the largest plot, with a similar aspect and terroir, and was planted by Vincent between 2000 and 2003, comprising Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. It is worth noting that the wines resulting from each of these three plots are markedly different, providing a compelling argument for the concept(s) of microclimate and terroir - not to mention complexity in the final blend. More on this later. </li>
<li>And finally, "Défriche de Blancs", comprising Chardonnay, Roussanne and Marsanne, was planted in 2007, with an east-facing aspect, on limestone soil. </li>
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Even on such a gloomy day (weather-wise) the setting is beautiful and tranquil, leaving you with a feeling of being miles from anywhere - which is pretty much the case, actually (take a look at the <a href="https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=fr+puechabon&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x12b157b50a1e71f7:0xad49cd15a60751cc,Pu%C3%A9chabon,+France&gl=uk&ei=sZ1hU7ONLIPMOb33gLgC&ved=0CJ8BELYDMA8" target="_blank">satellite view</a> on Google Maps and you will see what I mean). In many ways, it reminds me of Domaine de Trévallon - and not many vineyard sites can match such a landscape.<br />
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After our tour of the vines, we headed back to Puéchabon, where Vincent and Sophie have built a small but functional new winery, on the very edge of the village. Although not officially organic or biodynamic, Vincent and Sophie prefer a sympathetic approach to viticulture, along the lines of "Lutte Raisonnée" (the reasoned struggle) and no synthetic fertilisers or herbicides are used in the vineyards - apparently, the biggest danger to the vines are the voracious wild boar that roam the vineyards, feasting on the ripening grapes! All of the work in the vineyards is done by hand, and they keep the yields very low (around 20 hl/ha) by way of de-budding and green harvesting. Fermentation is completely reliant on naturally occurring wild yeasts. For the red wines, each grape variety, from each plot, is vinified separately, with long cuvaisons of between 30 and 40 days, then aged separately for 2 years in used barrels (i.e. which have seen one or more previous vintages) before being blended 3 months prior to bottling. For the whites, each grape variety is pressed separately, with the resulting juice being blended and then fermented and aged in used barrels for one year. Bottling is carried out according to the phases of the moon.<br />
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We were joined by Vincent for a tasting of 2011 wines in bottle, plus various components of the 2012's from barrel, beginning with the whites;</div>
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<b>Le Coup de Calcaire 2012</b> (from barrel)</div>
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90% Chardonnay, 5% Roussanne, 5% Marsanne. Very cool-climate and Burgundian in style. Floral, full of fruit, yet delicate and minerally, with a fresh, almost prickly palate. A really fabulous expression of Chardonnay. If only I could get my hands on some!</div>
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<b>Le Blanc 2012</b> (from barrel)</div>
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45% Roussanne, 45% Marsanne and 10% Viognier. A cool, minty, herbal nose, rich but not dense, lemon and orange. Not oaky. Gently prickly, without being zesty. Elegant.</div>
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<b>Le Blanc 2011</b> (from bottle)</div>
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Same blend. The yield for this wine was a miniscule 13 hl/ha (18 hl/ha for the 2012 above). A little less expressive than the 2012, but still very complex, with hints of flowers and orange peel. Quite rich, unctuous and lovely, and I imagine quite age-worthy.</div>
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Then a series of 2012 reds from barrel, being the various constituents which would eventually go into <b>Le Rouge 2012</b>;</div>
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<b>Grenache 2012</b> from the Saint Sylvestre plot - Gently woody and spicy, smooth and elegant, with red fruits, rather than black.</div>
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<b>Grenache 2012</b> from Défriche de Rouges - Stronger and more robust, slightly tarry and more overtly spicy and with richer/darker fruit.</div>
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<b>Syrah 2012</b> from Saint Sylvestre - Dark and dense, with an elegant nose of preserved red fruits and subtle hints of leather and meat. The palate is at the same time taut, yet elegant and lovely, with soft tannins, tangy acidity and gently spicy and herby.</div>
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<b>Syrah 2012</b> from Défriche de Rouges - Robust and dense, with hints of curry spices, but with a delightful streak of freshness.</div>
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<b>Syrah 2012</b> from La Fon de La Coste - There's a lot going on here. New leather, spice, bramble and garrigue herbs. Big and expressive, but with underlying elegance.</div>
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<b>Mourvedre 2012</b> from Défriche de Rouges - This is so ripe! Brambles and prunes on the nose, with a hint of orange peel. The palate is contrary - fresh, almost zesty, with velvety tannins, spice and cracking acidity. Very long and lovely.</div>
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<b>Les Vignes de La Garrigue 2012 (100% Carignan)</b> (from barrel) </div>
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I must admit that I failed to enquire about the origins of this wine, but seeing as Carignan is not listed as being in any of the other four plots, it must be from an entirely separate plot. I have no idea of the age of the vines, though I suspect that they may be old and very low-yielding, for I believe only 300 bottles are produced annually. The colour is dense and, whilst the nose is a touch muted, the palate is gloriously expressive and elegant, with ripe red and black fruits, a hint of citrus and fantastic acidity. I love it!</div>
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<b>Le Rouge 2011</b> (from bottle)</div>
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70% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre. A complex nose of ripe red/black fruits, leather and soft curry spices, with distinct notes of flowers and violets. Rich and expansive, with spicy undertones and herbs of the garrigue. A wine of real structure - lovely already, but with great potential for the future.</div>
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<b>Les Vignes de La Garrigue 2011</b> (from bottle)</div>
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100% Carignan, neither fined nor filtered. Lots of leather, mixed fruit and citrus aromas and flavours, with a typical rasp of Carignan rusticity - which is just how I like it(!)</div>
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And that was it - a fabulous and very enlightening tour and tasting, in the company of delightful people. The only disappointment (and a big one at that) was that Sophie and Vincent had not a single bottle of wine that they could sell me. With (by my calculation) only around 20,000 bottles produced each year, their wines are in such demand that they are available only on allocation, to their loyal band of customers and cavistes. Considering that the first vintage Vincent and Sophie made together was 2011, it is remarkable that they have gained such a cult following in such a short space of time. But, as the saying goes, good things come to those who wait - and we eventually managed to secure a small (very small) allocation of the 2012 red, and an even smaller allocation of the white. Unfortunately, we <b>still </b>can't get our hands on Les Coups de Calcaire or Les Vignes de La Garrigue. But now that we finally have our proverbial foot in the door, hopefully we can manage to secure more wines (perhaps even the whole range) in the forthcoming years. Meanwhile, these two beauties will have to do.......</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Saint_Sylvestre.html#a252" target="_blank">Domaine Saint Sylvestre Rouge 2011 AOP Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac</a></b></div>
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70% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, aged 2 years in barrel. A deep, semi-opaque colour, with a powerful nose - a complex and heady array of black fruits, fresh bread and exotic spice aromas, with notes of leather and woodsmoke lurking in the background. Even after a full 2 years in barrel, there is just the merest hint of (older) oak, which only serves to heighten the fruit aromas, whilst further nuances of preserved fruits and fine eau de vie emerging with air. The palate is deeply concentrated and crammed full of flavour, in a spiced, baked fruit kind of way - rich, warming and almost a meal in itself. It is certainly good now, but is really only just starting out on a long journey of evolution - I'd say 10-plus years to maturity - with just the right levels of juicy acidity and rich tannins. Young, but with a great future ahead of it. (£18.50) </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Saint_Sylvestre.html#a253" target="_blank">Domaine Saint Sylvestre Blanc 2012 AOP Languedoc</a></b> </div>
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45% Marsanne, 45% Roussanne, 10% Viognier, fermented and aged in barrel for 1 year. A gorgeous, limpid, translucent pale gold colour. The nose is wonderfully complex, heavy with the scents of herbs, spices and stony minerality, at the same time exhibiting myriad aromas of apple and peach, mint, honeysuckle and fennel, with subtle notes of spring blossom and lime oil peeping through. The palate has a rich, creamy, almost oily texture, which is perfectly offset by juicy peach and apple flavours, a rasp of cut lime, garrigue herb and spice, whilst the heightened, limey acidity and intense core of minerality makes for an explosively refreshing, yet considerably complex wine. The flavours last an age on the finish, revealing extra layers of complexity and sensation as they do so. It is a shame we could only secure a handful of cases - and even then, we had to beg and plead - for this is without doubt one of the finest Languedoc whites we have ever tasted. A quite faultless and very special wine.
Rated 18/20 in Le Guide Bettane et Desseauve des Vins de France. (£18.50)
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-24402905166964544292014-04-25T16:06:00.001+01:002014-04-25T19:33:23.005+01:00A visit to Domaine Guillot-Broux - and finally, the wines are here!<div style="text-align: justify;">
The wines of Domaine Guillot-Broux are not entirely new to the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines list, since we featured a couple of cuvées a few years back, at the time they were (rather inexplicably) dropped by their UK agent, who bin-ended the remainder of their supplies. In fact, our introduction to these lovely wines came even earlier, courtesy of our friend David Bennett, who has a second home in southern Burgundy and has been a regular visitor to the Guillot-Broux estate, situated less than half an hour's drive away in the village of Cruzille-en-Mâconnais.<br />
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We first visited more than 2 years ago (although TLD had a migraine, so she slept in the car!). Our latest visit was in June 2013, when we were treated to an extensive tasting of wines from both bottle and barrel. As if I needed confirmation, after all of my previous positive experiences of the wines, the quality across the board was of a level which compared very favourably with so many other more esteemed (and considerably more expensive) growers in the Côte d'Or. I have written several times before about <a href="http://leonstolarski.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Domaine%20Guillot-Broux" target="_blank">various Guillot-Broux wines</a>, notably a few of the 2011's and 2010's, not to mention several bottles of a wonderful 1996 Gamay (see - it really is age-worthy stuff)! Below I have reproduced the tasting notes from my website on the new wines that have finally found their way onto our list. But first of all, here's a little history on the estate and some technical details................<br />
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The Guillot family have been making wines in Cruzille since 1954, when the current owners' grandparents, Pierre and Jeannine Guillot, started the first organic vineyard in Burgundy. Their son, Jean-Gérard, spent some years working on the family vineyard, before working for several years with Domaine de la Chanal in Brouilly and Bernard Michelot in Meursault. In 1978, Jean-Gérard returned to Cruzille, where he established Domaine Guillot-Broux with his wife Jacqueline, starting out with little more than a hectare of vines. By 1991 the estate had expanded to include further vineyards, and had also been granted official organic certification. During this time, Jean-Gérard's sons Ludovic and Patrice began working for the estate. Another son, Emmanuel (whose previous experience included 2 years as head sommelier at the St. James's Club in London) returned to the estate in 2000 and, following the death of Jean-Gérard in 2008, Emmanuel took over the reins as head winemaker. The estate now comprises around 15 hectares, with a number of small vineyards in the Mâconnais villages of Cruzille, Grevilly, Pierreclos and Chardonnay (which some say is the origin of the Chardonnay grape variety).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tasting from barrel with Emmauel Guillot</i></td></tr>
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The terrain of the Mâconnais region (and hence - to an extent - the terroir) differs somewhat from that of the Côte d'Or, with gently rolling countryside interspersed with numerous small hills and forests, rocky outcrops and valleys. Much of the region is given over to arable and livestock farming, yet is also widely interspersed with numerous vineyards. Mâcon and Mâcon-Villages are the basic appellations, whilst various villages which tend to make wines higher up the quality scale are permitted to append their name - hence Mâcon-Cruzille, Mâcon-Chardonnay, Mâcon-Pierreclos, etc. Despite this (all too typically) complicated hierarchy, the aforementioned appellations strangely apply only to Chardonnay and Gamay. Therefore, despite the fact that there are now some pretty impressive Pinot Noirs being made in the region, they can still only be labelled as humble Bougogne Rouge - even though, from the right terroir and in the hands of quality vignerons, they can be a match for their more esteemed Côte d'Or cousins.<br />
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Most of the vineyards of the Guillot-Broux estate are situated on east-facing slopes on clay-limestone soil, except for the 60-90 year-old Gamay vines in Pierreclos, which are planted on granite soil with a south-facing aspect. The nature of the soil in Cruzille particularly brings out mineral flavours, and produces wines which need a relatively long time to mature. Grevilly (in 2005, Mâcon Grévilly become Mâcon Cruzille) and Chardonnay produce fruitier wines that can be appreciated when young or can be kept for several years to develop greater complexity.
The different characteristics of these varied terroirs and the wines they produce are reinforced by the Guillot's methods of cultivation - they only use natural methods of fighting parasites and disease, using a combination of ploughing, organic fertilisers (to feed the soil and not the vines), and organically-acceptable mineral sprays (copper and sulphites). They believe that respecting the soil in this way allows the vines to absorb all the elements they need to be healthy and balanced, thus producing healthy, balanced wines. In other words, to maintain the right balance rather than treat the consequences. Indeed, as well as being the oldest organic grower in Burgundy, the estate is essentially farmed (though not certified) according to biodynamic principles. </div>
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Although the vines are, generally speaking, planted at a density of 8,000 to 9,000 per hectare, yields are still low, at between 30 and 55 hectolitres a hectare, with the emphasis on quality rather than quantity. This dense planting regime increases competition between the vines, making for naturally low yields and increased concentration of flavours and balance in the wines. All of the grapes are hand-picked, and then sorted in the vines before going to the winery. </div>
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The grapes from the various plots and grape varieties are vinified differently, depending on the type of terroir, the vintage and the age of the vines. Fermentation is completed without the addition of cultured yeasts, whilst the use of SO2 and chaptalisation are kept to a strict minimum.
The Chardonnay grapes are pressed immediately and the juice is put straight into 225 litre oak barrels, where both the first (alcoholic) and second (malolactic) fermentations take place. After malolactic fermentation, the wines are racked and either put back into barrels (single vineyard wines) or into vats (Mâcon Villages). The top cuvées then spend a second winter in barrels before being bottled, without fining or filtration. The Gamay grapes are put into small vats (50hl) without being de-stemmed. They are macerated and fermented on the skins, before being pressed 6 to 30 days later, depending on the vintage. During this time, the grapes are trod by foot or by using a long plunger once or twice a day. The Pinot Noir grapes are de-stemmed before undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation for a minimum of 15 days. After being pressed, the wines are matured for between 11 and 18 months in barrel, and then bottled without fining. The wines are only gently filtered, if necessary, or in many cases not at all. </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Guillot_Broux.html#a22" target="_blank">Les Genièvrières 2012 Mâcon-Cruzille</a></b></div>
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This parcel of land had been one of the best in the Mâconnais at the beginning of the 19th century, but was left out of the reclassification for vine-growing land in 1935. Uncultivated since the phylloxera epidemic, it was re-planted in 1983. </div>
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A bright mid-gold/straw colour, leading to a pale rim. Wonderfully lime-scented, with an array of freshly-cut hay, basil and oregano notes, not to mention a strong perception of wet stone minerality. And that stony theme continues through onto the palate – a veritable double-whammy of bracing, citrus-tinged acidity and a dry, almost chalky mineral edge, which really does make your tabs laugh and your eyes water, in a most enjoyable way. There are plenty of tart Bramley apple and soft citrus fruit flavours, with perhaps the merest hint of something richer, like slightly under-ripe peach or apricot. All of which amounts to a pretty good knife-edge balancing act – with less fruit, the tartness might make the teeth jangle, but any more and it wouldn’t excite the taste buds so much. My goodness, this is lovely wine - and long, too! (£17.95) </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Guillot_Broux.html#a25" target="_blank">Les Combettes 2012 Mâcon-Chardonnay</a></b> </div>
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Despite the fact that the vineyards of Les Combettes and Les Genièvrières are contiguous, the two wines produced are dramatically different. Les Combettes is close in spirit to a wine from the Côte d'Or - woody, rich and full-bodied. </div>
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A bright gold/straw colour, leading to a pale rim. Delightfully expressive, high-toned and almost prickly on the nose, with gloriously intense lime oil and fresh apple aromas, buttered toast and hints of peach and apricot. So wonderfully intense and flavoursome on the palate too, with bucket-loads of fruit and minerality, utterly mouth-watering acidity and a gentle herbiness. This really is the business - Côte d'Or quality at a much more sensible Mâcon price. A real stunner of a wine, to drink now, or to age for a few years. (£18.50) </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Guillot_Broux.html#a34" target="_blank">Les Perrières 2012 Mâcon-Cruzille</a></b> </div>
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The terroir of the Perrières vineyard consists of Oolitic limestone, in layers of limestone slabs and a thin soil cover (20 - 40 cm). It is porous, making for good drainage, but at the same time very fragile and difficult to work, and was abandoned after the phylloxera epidemic for these very reasons. Comprising just 1.1 hectares, it was re-planted in 1978, with a density of 9,000 vines per hectare. Yields are between 35 and 35 hl/ha. </div>
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The wine is aged for 18 months in second or third generation oak barrels without either fining or filtering.
The nose is simply gorgeous - all prickly and zingy, scented with the oil of freshly-cut limes, hay, nettles and massive minerality. Not that it lacks in the way of fruit, though - spiced apple, dried orange and soused sultana aromas abound, in a wine of tremendous complexity and verve. All of which carries through onto the palate - and then some! You can spend an eternity picking out myriad flavours and nuances, whilst simply enjoying such a delicious, structured and compelling wine. It grips and caresses at the same time, with tremendous depth and concentration of complex, herb-tinged fruit and stony minerality, wrapped around a backbone of positively eye-watering acidity. Long, complex and utterly lovely, this is undoubtedly a wine to match many a Côtes de Nuits 1er Cru. (£19.99) </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Guillot_Broux.html#a52" target="_blank">Mâcon-Pierreclos 2012</a></b> </div>
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From Gamay vines of between 60 and 90 years of age, grown on granitic soil in the village of Pierreclos. The translucent ruby colour and tremendously fragrant nose scores very highly on the come-hither scale. Cherry and redcurrant aromas abound, with subtle hints of spiced rhubarb, violets, new leather and damp earth, and perhaps a suggestion of fresh root ginger. The palate is delightfully fresh and invigorating, with a mouth-watering core of citrussy acidity and just the right amount of tannic grip to accompany the vibrant, tangy, spicy red fruit. Whilst superficially light and airy, it doesn't take too much scratching beneath the surface to reveal extra layers of complexity and flavour, which raise it to another level. It may be Gamay, but it is quite different to Beaujolais. Rather, it has a grace and elegance one might normally encounter in a light, vibrant young Pinot. A wonderful expression of the Gamay grape. (£15.95) </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Guillot_Broux.html#a55" target="_blank">La Myotte 2012 Bourgogne</a></b> </div>
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The estate's top red, from an old, low-yielding vineyard on a mix of marl and limestone, comprising just 0.65 of a hectare, which was re-planted in 1956, with cuttings from Pinot Noir vines from the Cote de Beaune. With a planting density of 8,000 vines per hectare, the average yield is just 30 hl/ha - or just over half a bottle per vine! </div>
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A beautiful, bright, translucent cherry/carmine red colour, with a complex, perfumed nose, combining red summer fruits, white pepper and spice, with subtle woody and earthy notes. A good swirl and a few minutes' air reveals yet more complexity, with hints of redcurrant, old leather and woodsmoke. If it sounds elegant, that's because it is - and the palate certainly lives up to the promise of the nose, caressing the tongue with waves of tangy cherry and redcurrant fruit nuances, not to mention something almost floral, like violets and fruit blossom, with a hint of fine white pepper for good measure. It simply exudes elegance, in an almost feminine way, embracing rather than squeezing, as do the tannins, which are fine and gently grippy, whilst the most gloriously juicy acidity carries the flavours all the way through to a long, lingering finish. At the risk of labouring the point, this really is *proper* red Burgundy. Is it worth 24 quid? Definitely. (£23.95)
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Having harboured a desire to import from Guillot-Broux for several years (with so many growers in Languedoc and Roussillon to juggle, there never quite seemed to be an ideal opportunity) I could resist no longer. For these wines are simply too good not to be available in the UK, providing as they do (in comparison with more exalted estates to the north, in the Côte d'Or) a genuine source of 1er Cru-standard wines at Village wine prices. Oh, and the Gamays are pretty darned good, too!</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-31637051615219024432014-03-30T13:02:00.001+01:002014-03-30T13:08:20.050+01:00Terre Inconnue - finally, they are here!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Robert Creus (pronounced "Cruise"), works for the French Chamber of Commerce. He is actually an experienced scientist, having been heavily involved in the Ariane space rocket programme. Whilst continuing in his main career, he also began making some wine in 1997, having bought some old Carignan vines. He has since added Grenache, Syrah, Serine (a northern Rhone variant of Syrah) and a little Tempranillo, all in excess of 30 years old, in several small plots near the villages of Saint-Christol, Saint-Geniès-des-Mourgues and Restinclières. One plot of Carignan is in excess of 70 years old (see the picture below). The total area under vine is just 4 hectares - and with yields of between 10 and 25 hl/ha (depending on the vineyard), it doesn't take a mathematician to work out that there isn't much wine to go around. </div>
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The work in the vineyards throughout the growing season is minimal, aside from a certain amount of green harvesting (resulting in just 4 or 5 bunches per vine) and no treatment (organic or otherwise) are used. Robert employs a dozen or so amateurs for the grape picking, at a rate of around 1.6 tonnes per day. He says that the harvest is "sober until noon, but after that I can guarantee nothing"(!) Around 80% of the grapes are de-stemmed, and maceration/fermentation lasts for between 3 and 5 weeks. The use of sulfites is minimal, with just 5 mg per litre added before fermentation, and none thereafter. The free-run wine is then mixed with the pressed wine and placed into old oak barrels and aged for 2 years. The finished wines are then transferred to tanks for at least 2 weeks to settle, protected by nitogen, after which they are bottled without fining or filtration. Although Robert's farming and winemaking principles are essentially biodynamic, his day job dictates that he bottles when he has the time, irrespective of the prevailing atmospheric pressure or phase of the moon. </div>
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TLD and I actually first visited Terre Inconnue in the summer of 2010. Having heard so much about the wines (and having recently tasted a 1999 Carignan, which was pretty amazing) I was very keen to taste the whole range. Unfortunately, Robert was working on the day we visited, so his father Lucien received us at his house in Saint Seriès. Although Robert makes the wines, Lucien himself has more than a little involvement in Terre Inconnue. Indeed, he no longer has room in his garage for his car, since it clearly comprises part of the Terre Inconnue wine store! Lucien is a charming old man, with a real passion for the wine, not to mention a real zest for life and a wicked sense of humour. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IX6iBRxR0uc/UzgA5V1kFcI/AAAAAAAABcI/qvXuZ1of38g/s1600/DSCF1610a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IX6iBRxR0uc/UzgA5V1kFcI/AAAAAAAABcI/qvXuZ1of38g/s1600/DSCF1610a.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Lucien Creus shows me around the vineyards in the summer of 2010</i></td></tr>
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Ever since that visit in 2010, we had been trying (but for a variety of reasons failing) to secure some of these wines for our list.Fast-forward to the summer of 2013 and we were invited to a tasting of a variety of wines, including several Terre Inconnue wines, at the house of Mark Ratcliffe, a friend and associate of Robert Creus who has a house in a nearby village. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A rather pleasant way to spend a June afternoon in the Languedoc. Incidentally, the gentleman on the right is Olivier Crouzet, who makes brilliant wines at <a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_de_Foltodon.html" target="_blank">Domaine de Foltodon</a>. The man on the left also makes some rather delicious wines, too. I don't recall his name - only that he bears more than a passing resemblance to Paul Newman!. </i></td></tr>
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Once again, Robert's work schedule meant that he could not be at the tasting - but a flurry of correspondence with him at the beginning of 2014 eventually led to him offering us a few cases of several different cuvées! And now we have our proverbial foot in the door, we hope to be able to secure more Terre Inconnue wines in the future. </div>
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Since Terre Inconnue is essentially a "garagiste" operation, all of the wines are labelled as Vin de Table - mainly because Robert and Lucien cannot be bothered with the bureaucracy involved in applying for appellation controllée (or even vin de pays) status for their wines. Vin de Table is (at least, in theory) the “lowest” denomination possible for wine produced in France. Indeed, until recently, it was not permitted to even show a vintage on the label, although Robert got around that problem by including a code (for example, L:2005) in small print in the bottom right-hand corner of the labels. This no longer poses a problem, as the vintage can now legally be added to the label. Not that such a humble denomination is any indication of the quality of the wines, for although they are not cheap, these are some of the most expressive, concentrated and finely-crafted wines you will find anywhere in Languedoc. Can we sell them? Who knows - but we'll have a damn good try. And if all else fails.... TLD and I will be more than happy to drink them ourselves!</div>
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Here are my notes for the wines we have just imported, all of which are now available to buy on our website...</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_Inconnue.html#a92" target="_blank">Sans Nom 2005 Vin de Table de France</a></b> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o3aLHArlQ_k/UzgExukWmcI/AAAAAAAABcU/KfNwvUxsJBA/s1600/TerreInconnueSansNom2005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o3aLHArlQ_k/UzgExukWmcI/AAAAAAAABcU/KfNwvUxsJBA/s1600/TerreInconnueSansNom2005.JPG" /></a>The wine without a name(!) 100% old-vine Grenache, described by Robert as a "cuvée oxidative". And on first opening, there is perhaps a slightly oxidative quality to it, but it opens-up in double quick time to reveal an impressive array of aromas and nuances - a mix of crystallised and baked red and black fruits, freshly-baked bread, polished leather, meat, sun-dried tomato, incense, curry spices and damp earth. Indeed, over the course of a couple of hours, it grows yet more complex, as does the palate, which is crammed full of fruit, spices and herbs, rich and warming, with fine, soft tannins and plenty of acidity, making for a powerful but supremely balanced wine. A perfectly mature wine, and a brilliant introduction to the Terre Inconnue style - and because we were able to get some for not much money, so can you! £11.99 </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_Inconnue.html#a97" target="_blank">Guilhem 2011 Vin de Table de France</a></b><br />
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Carignan, Grenache, Tempranillo and Merlot. Despite the seemingly eclectic blend, the nose is classic Carignan - intense aromas of soused bramble and raspberry, fresh bread and aromatic herbs, with evocative sous-bois notes, like a funghi-filled autumn forest. The advertised 15% abv is in this case just a number, for it feels more like 13% - the palate is tremendously fresh and vibrant, with a combination of ripe red and black fruits, fine tannins and mouth-watering acidity making for a wine of real balance and not a little elegance. It's lightness of touch really is a very pleasant surprise, and whilst the finish is underpinned by a gentle warmth and spiciness, it remains fresh and juicy to the very end. A fine, complex and delicious wine, and yet another which demonstrates what old-vine Carignan is capable of, in the hands of a skilled vigneron. £17.95<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_Inconnue.html#a99" target="_blank">Leonie 2006 Vin de Table de France</a></b> </div>
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100% Carignan from 100 year-old vines. A wonderfully expressive and fresh nose, crammed full of red and black summer fruit, spice, mint and blackcurrant leaf aromas. And with the benefit of several years of evolution, it has developed complex secondary notes of polished leather/wood, smoking incense, damp earth and all manner of other things. And if you are (like me) a bit of a Musar freak, then you will love this, for it has that unmistakeable whiff of volatile acidity, which gives tremendous lift and definition to the fruit. It really is very evocative and alluring! The palate is a charismatic and quirky mix of fresh bramble and currants (of both the black and red varieties) and deep, rich fruitcake and preserved fig flavours, wrapped around a core of intensely juicy acidity. And with a firm but ripe tannic structure, it is a wine that is good to drink now, but also has the stuffing to age and evolve for at least another 10 years..... if, that is, you can resist drinking such a delicious and mouth-watering wine! A Languedoc classic. £22.50 </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_Inconnue.html#a105" target="_blank">Los Abuelos 2010 Vin de Table de France</a></b> </div>
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100% old-vine Grenache. This wine is a complete enigma, and one that (were I to taste it blind) would have me all over the place. With notes of preserved/crystallised redcurrants and raspberries, polished old wood, garrigue herbs and leather, it does have some of the traits that you would expect from Grenache. Conversely, it has a lightness and freshness - both in terms of appearance and aromatically - that would put me somewhere much further north, perhaps even in Burgundy, with lifted notes of tea, violets and roses making for something really quite elegant and delicate. Which I suppose is not too fanciful, since I have occasionally heard Grenache (especially from very old vines) described as the "Pinot Noir of the Languedoc". And this wine illustrates the point almost to an extreme, for the palate is even more Pinot-like than any Grenache I have ever tasted, with redcurrant and red cherry flavours to the fore, a hint of strawberry sweetness lurking at the end. A core of fine but firm tannin and the most amazing rasp of cherry/citrus acidity carries the fruit all the way to a long, bitter-sweet and totally mouth-watering finish. As for the advertised 15% abv on the label..... well, I am flabbergasted, for it feels for all the world more like 13% or less. This wine might not be typically Languedoc - in fact, it is almost as far removed from the template as it is possible to get. Indeed, the style is not even typical for this estate. But if you have an open mind - and perhaps even a love of fine Burgundy - then you will love this! £29.50 </div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_Inconnue.html#a113" target="_blank">Sylvie 2010 Vin de Table de France</a></b> </div>
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A 50/50 blend of Sérine and Syrah. Sérine is (depending on where you look or who you read) either a particular clone of Syrah or - more likely - the original Syrah, from which other clones were developed. Either way, it seems that many of the Northern Rhône's greatest red wines are based on the Sérine variety and, having become almost extinct in the second half of the 20th century, it's cuttings are now highly-prized by the best growers. And whilst it may still be a relatively rarity in the Rhône, it is even more so in Languedoc, especially old vines like those of Terre Inconnue. Yields for this wine are miniscule, at an average of just 10 hl/ha, and it shows. The colour is deep and concentrated - as is the nose, which at the same time exudes freshness, with notes of violets and cherries, bramble and leather, infused with garrigue herbs and exotic spices, a fleeting hint of coffee grounds and a refreshing streak of volatile acidity. The palate grabs you from the off, with fine, grippy tannins and bright, fresh, mouth-watering acidity, combining seamlessly with dense, ripe red and black fruit flavours. With time in the glass, it develops notes of fresh bread, mint and oregano on the nose, with more in the way of red fruit flavours such as cranberry and redcurrant. It is still relatively young, but supremely balanced and already deliciously drinkable, with a persistent finish. You can drink it now, or age it for another 10-plus years. Either way, it is a fine, complex and compelling wine. £33.95<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-89268210341490510362013-12-17T23:30:00.000+00:002013-12-18T01:01:19.855+00:00Another trio of wines from the Loire Valley<div style="text-align: justify;">
I will offer no apologies for the complete lack of posts on this blog over the last couple of months. Frankly, I have been far too busy with other things (both wine and non-wine related) to even think about spending what can amount to a good deal of my time, writing for "pleasure"(!) I guess I have also become more used to posting what some may call "micro-blogs" on Facebook. I have to say I like the immediacy and intimacy of Facebook and the way that friends and followers (I cross-post wine-related posts from my personal page to my business page) can interact to their hearts' content, to the point where genuine conversations or debates can develop in a very short space of time - which is much more difficult on platforms such as Blogger. And whilst I used to get frustrated when I posted links to my blog posts on Facebook, only for people to reply on Facebook (rather than on the blog itself), I now just accept that as a fact of 21st Century life. If people want to say something, they will say it using the easiest way possible. I still think blogging is a useful way of communicating, and certainly intend to carry on posting, whenever time or work allows (or dictates). And if anyone can suggest a useful way of linking Facebook to Blogger - rather than the other way around - I would be mightily interested in hearing it!</div>
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Anyway, enough about that - let's get back into it gently, courtesy of an interesting trio of Loire whites. I was recently asked by French wine marketing organisation Sopexa if I would like to receive some more sample bottles to taste. And although they are already well aware of the fact that I have no commercial interest in Loire wines (as a merchant, that is), I guess the fact that I have - historically, at least - a decent following for my blog is all-important. So if they want to keep sending me wines to taste/review, who am I to argue? And if the wines are good, I'm happy to say so - and equally likely to say if they are not.</div>
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<b>Paul Bouisse La Grille Sauvignon Blanc 2012 IGP Touraine</b></div>
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This is intensely grassy and uber-fresh, with pronounced elderflower, gooseberry and blackcurrant leaf/fruit aromas. There is just the merest hint of something tropical on the palate, but it is really all about apples, peaches and cut limes, with a combination of zesty acidity and stony minerality. Quite modern, but in a very good (and very French) way. It is a really clean, fresh, mouthwatering wine, with a long-ish, gently spicy and cool, peppermint-y finish. Apparently, the recommended retail price at Majestic is £7.99. I guess if you wait a while, you just might get the usual (or do I mean predictable) 2 at £5.99(ish) each - but don't quote me on that. Either way, a decent wine and good value for money.</div>
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<b>Eric Chevalier La Noë 2012 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu Sur Lie</b> </div>
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Muscadet trying to be Burgundy? Actually, it is doing a fairly decent impression, in a ripe, opulent sort of way. Lots of creamy, orangy, honeyed sur-lie aromas and flavours (and do I detect a hint of barrel fermentation?) with notes of spiced apple pie and overripe peach, and perhaps a slight perception of salty minerality. Opulent, rich and full-bodied, it <u>almost</u> hits the spot, but for the lack of some genuinely bracing acidity. Almost serious...... but on balance - or rather, the lack thereof - falling just a little bit short. It is a fairly decent wine for the money (£11.95 Lea & Sandeman) though ultimately too big for its own good.</div>
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<b>Monmousseau Brut Etoile Methode Traditionelle NV</b></div>
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Made from somewhere between 50% and 70% Chenin Blanc (depending on where you look), plus Ugni Blanc and possibly other varieties, this really is very rich and limey, with what seems like a touch of residual sugar, yet with an intense cooking apple and spice note. It all makes for a rather bitter-sweet palate, which is interesting to begin with, but soon begins to tire - rather than refresh - the palate. It lacks the subtlety of (say) Champagne, Crémant de Bourgogne or Blanquette de Limoux. Would I buy it? No, because to be honest, at this price (£10.49 from Averys) too many other regions and countries produce better, more refined sparklers.</div>
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Looking ahead, tomorrow sees the annual "Best Bottle" tasting at the Nottingham Wine Circle. Given that this event usually throws up a few real gems, I will actually find it hard to resist posting my notes on some of them. Possibly...................... ;-)</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-87940279910469410692013-10-18T14:34:00.000+01:002013-10-18T14:40:38.665+01:00A visit to Mas Foulaquier<div style="text-align: justify;">
Mas Foulaquier is a Pic Saint-Loup grower that had - until a few years ago - flown completely under my radar. Winemaker Pierre Jéquier, a native of Switzerland and formerly an architect, created Mas Foulaquier in 1998, following an exhaustive search for his dream wine estate. Situated in the most northerly corner of one of Languedoc's most northerly appellations, the eight hectares of existing vines were at the time just 8 years old, but happened to be planted on some great terroir. Now approaching 25 years of age, those maturing vines are the source of a quite brilliant set of wines. Pierre's wife and fellow winemaker Blandine Chauchet joined the team in 2003, bringing with her the ownership of a further 3 hectares of 50 year-old Grenache and Carignan vines in the "Tonillieres" vineyard in Claret. Other parcels have since been added (including a 2 hectare vineyard planted to Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Rolle) bringing the total area under vine to around 15 hectares - 10 ha or so surrounding the winery and the rest dotted around the village. Pierre and Blandine also employ the services of two of the finest consultants in their respective fields of expertise - biodynamics guru Jacques Mell on the viticultural side and Christian Prudhomme (formerly of Chateau Mouton Rothschild) on the winemaking side. Estate and sales manager and all-round good guy Adrien Laroche holds everything together from day-to-day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Most of the wines are aged in vat..........</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>.......with just a small amount of barrel ageing for some cuvées</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The vines surrounding Mas Foulaquier</i></td></tr>
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Having first met Pierre Jéquier and tasted his wines at a small (but very busy) tasting event in Monpellier in 2010, I was totally blown away by their quality and jumped at the opportunity to import a selection of them. And so, more than 3 years down the line, our first actual visit to the Mas Foulaquier estate in June this year was certainly long overdue. As you can see from the photo above, it wasn't the sunniest of days and there were certainly plenty of angry clouds lurking, but it stayed dry and warm enough to allow for a rather delightful al fresco tasting, under the shade of one of several magnificent chestnut trees surrounding the winery. And all accompanied by a delicious array of fresh bread, cold cuts, local goats cheese and olive oil.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>TLD had no trouble taming the Foulaquier "guard" dogs!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The start of a very fine tasting and lunch - Pierre Jequier pouring l'Orphée 2011</i></td></tr>
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Adrien was a mine of information, whilst Pierre spoke about his wines with the sort of passion you expect from a dedicated vigneron. And although the wines based mainly on Syrah and Carignan are wonderful (indeed, my personal favourite is Tonillieres 2012), Pierre was at pains to stress that he thinks that Grenache is the variety most suited to the terroir - basically clay-limestone with a pebbly top layer - of this little corner of Pic Saint-Loup. And who am I to disagree, for Le Petit Duc 2011, which is 90% Grenache, is one of the most delicious wines of its type I have tasted from this part of the world. My notes on that and other wines below are an amalgam of brief notes taken on the day, more detailed notes written from the opened bottles that we were kindly given to take away with us and - for the 4 cuvées we eventually settled on - further bottles opened when we took delivery of our new stocks (purely in the interests of "research", you understand!).<br />
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To be fair, we have until now found the wines of Mas Foulaquier quite difficult to sell. I know not why - perhaps they aren't the cheapest wines, especially in the wider scheme of things in Languedoc, but then again quality doesn't usually come cheap. And in my experience, these are without doubt some of the finest wines the Pic Saint-Loup appellation (and indeed the Languedoc as a whole) has to offer. Which actually makes them rather good value. And I'm not about to let the fact that they are difficult to sell deter me from trying all over again with these latest vintages!<br />
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So....... is the quality of these wines down to biodynamic farming (something Pierre set out to do from the start - the wines are all certified biodynamic), or is is simply a testament to brilliant winemaking? To be honest, in my experience, the two are often inextricably linked. Whether you believe in biodynamics or not (extreme organics, or just wacky mumbo-jumbo?) those very principles go pretty much hand-in-hand with a love for the land and a fastidious approach to winemaking. The wines are also as natural as can be - no sulphites or added yeasts are used in the winemaking process, there is no fining or filtering, and only the tiniest amount of SO2 (between 10 and 30 mg) is added at the bottling stage.<br />
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I could go on and tell you more about Mas Foulaquier, but why do that, when they have <a href="http://www.masfoulaquier.fr/" target="_blank">their own rather excellent website</a>? I'm here to wax lyrical about the wines. And do you know what? From an already extremely high level of quality, their current vintages have raised the bar even higher, for this was one of the finest selections of wines from a single grower we have ever had the privilege of tasting. And if you have any sort of claim to be a lover of Languedoc's finest wines, then you simply must try them. Who knows - the following tasting notes might even persuade you to do so...............</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Mas_Foulaquier.html#a354" target="_blank">l'Orphée 2011 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</a></b><br />
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A 50/50 blend of Syrah and Grenache. Semi-translucsent, bright, deep cherry red colour. Fresh, ripe redcurrant, raspberry, cherry and bramble aromas mingle with notes of meat, new leather, garrigue herbs, curry spices and damp earth - all-in-all, a considerably complex and heady nose. The palate too is brimming with wonderfully ripe red and black fruit flavours, with a delicious bite of tart cherry skin and tangy orange, the effect of a seamless combination of ripe, tea-like tannins and juicy acidity. With air (and especially on day 2) it develops some rich fruitcake aromas and flavours, whilst still retaining freshness. There's also a savoury tang - not meaty, but more like a sun-dried tomato, vegetable and garrigue quality, which adds complexity without detracting from all of that wonderful sweet/sour/tangy fruit. There are wines that I occasionally flag-up as quintessential examples of fine Languedoc wine - and this is one of them. A simply glorious, fine, elegant wine - and I challenge you not to empty the bottle in one sitting! £15.50<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Mas_Foulaquier.html#a352" target="_blank">Les Tonillieres 2012 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</a></b><br />
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Another 50/50 blend - this time, Carignan and Syrah. Semi-transluscent, medium-deep carmine red, fading to a narrow rim. Only the press wine goes into barrel - the rest is aged in vat - but the grapes are first given a full 3 months' maceration at a cool temperature, which ensures good extract whilst retaining a good deal of elegance. The Carignan element is so expressive, you almost don't notice the Syrah - and when Carignan is this good, it is hard to beat. Fabulous aromas of pickled brambles and raspberries, with an amazing array of secondary nuances - notably, leather, cigar box, coffee grounds, beetroot and damp earth. Not to mention a delightful rasp of soft citrus-like volatile acidity, which makes your eyes water in the most glorious way (especially on day 2)! The flavours are so fresh and full of vitality, with an almost Musar-like structure, chock full of sweet and sour raspberry and black fruit flavours, with subtle hints of coffee and toffee. With air, it becomes even deeper, more expressive, more elegant, whilst retaining all of that wonderful freshness, complexity - and impressive length. A truly glorious wine, which every one of our customers (indeed any lover of fine Languedoc wine) should buy. It will age nicely, but why wait, when it is so wonderful now? £15.95<br />
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<b>Le Rollier 2010 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</b><br />
40% Syrah, 60% Grenache. No oak. Rich, balanced and rather yummy. Quite soft, but nevertheless balanced and nicely structured. Tasted over the next couple of days, there are plenty of rich, ripe fresh fruit and jam aromas, with hints of toffee and curry spices. Lovely and soft on the palate, but far from blowsy, with plenty of juicy fruit and acidity, with nice tannic grip. Long and spicy.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Mas_Foulaquier.html#a353" target="_blank">Les Calades 2010 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</a></b><br />
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70% Syrah, 30% Grenache. With its aromas of dark red fruits, exotic spices, garrigue herbs, fine eau de vie, damp earth, leather and polished mahogany - a bit like an old church pew - this is one of the most complex wines (aromatically speaking) I have encountered in a long time. It really does caress the senses in a way that keeps you coming back for another sniff. And the palate certainly delivers, offering a hugely complex array of fruit, spice, herb and tertiary flavours. Richly-textured and almost velvety at first, you suddenly get this wonderful hit of dark cherry, bramble and orange-tinged fruit, a rasp of fine, tea-like tannin and simply mouth-watering acidity on the mid-palate, followed by a long, tangy, gently spicy finish that goes on forever. Fabulous wine! £19.50<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Mas_Foulaquier.html#a359" target="_blank">Le Petit Duc 2011 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</a></b><br />
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90% Grenache, 10% Syrah. A lovely bright translucent cherry/blood red colour. The nose shows an intriguing leathery, meaty quality, though not at the expense of some really delightful raspberry, cherry and floral aromas, a hint of creaminess, toasted brioche and herbs - alluring, complex and elegant, rather than big and burly. Sort of what Chateauneuf would be like if its climate were a little gentler..... like that of Pic Saint-Loup! The palate too is elegance personified - a lovely warm, spicy, herb-laden mix of fresh and crystallised fruits with a gentle orangey tang, with subtle notes of redcurrant and cranberry, all of which combine in a delightfully fresh sweet and sour whole. Pierre believes that his little corner of the Pic Saint-Loup terroir is the perfect spot for Grenache, and on this showing, who am I to disagree? This really is a lovely wine, which all fans of the more aspirational southern Rhône reds would do well to try. £19.95<br />
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<b>Gran' T 2010 Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup</b><br />
Polished wood, tobacco, curry spice and garrigue herbs mingle with dark cherry and redcurrant aromas and a whiff of oak. The palate is full of ripe but tangy fruit flavours, with plenty of grape skin and wood tannins. And whilst it has excellent acidity and a fine, even complex structure, it is (for me) the least appealing wine of the line-up, since it needs a lot of time to shed the puppy fat and for all of that tannin and oak to integrate, before it becomes a joy to drink. A quite rich and oaky style of wine, which is not necessarily my bag, but nevertheless imbued with a fine structure and plenty of ageing potential. One for the classicists, I guess. Indeed, it may even turn out to be a very fine wine after a decade in the cellar - but I don't want to wait that long, when all of the others are so damn delicious now(!)<br />
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So there you have it - Pic Saint-Loup at its very best. And if we still can't sell 'em, we'll just go ahead and drink 'em! Drool.............<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-70579056865248255402013-09-28T21:47:00.001+01:002013-09-28T21:47:20.734+01:00A trio of lovely Provençal reds for Autumn - plus a delicious wedding anniversary wine<div style="text-align: justify;">
Although the weather over the past few days has been wonderfully bright and sunny, there is no doubting the onset of Autumn. An early morning nip in the air and an abundance of dew is testament to that. And so, it is time for us to start opening a few more red wines (having consumed more whites in our house this year than ever before). And here are just 3 of the best we have tasted in the last week or so..........<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Terre_des_Chardons.html#a593" target="_blank">Terre des Chardons Bien Luné 2012 Costieres de Nimes</a></b><br />
Not *strictly* Provence, although Costieres de Nimes is as close as it gets without being so, wedged as it is between the southern Rhone, Languedoc and Provence. A 50/50 blend of Syrah and Grenache. When we last tasted this in June, the Syrah was very much the dominant variety, almost to the exclusion of the Grenache - so much so, that it would be hard not to imagine it was a rather good Crozes-Hermitage or even a lesser Cote-Rotie. It is still fragrant - actually, perfumed is a better word - with wonderfu plum, blackcurrant and floral aromas, but the Grenache now gets a look in. Spicy, earthy, raspberry and redcurrant notes abound, with hints of darker, crystallised fruits, black cherry and iodine. The palate is beautifully rounded, elegant and complex, with a softly tannic backbone, around which is wrapped the most voluptuouscloak of ripe red fruits, soft spice, minerality and subtle garrigue herbs. And all shot through with the freshest, most piquant sour cherry and soft citrus acidity. It really is a delightfully elegant and uplifting wine, the result of the finest grapes (biodynamic), a mix of traditional and whole-bunch fermentation, the complete absence of oak and brilliant winemaking. One of the best bargains I have ever found in 10 years of importing from Languedoc. £11.99.<br />
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The next 2 wines speak very much of Provence. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre are the 3 varieties that make up the blend in the main Chateau d'Estoublon red wine. Winemaker and owner Remy Reboul told me at Vinisud last year that people had suggested, after tasting barrel samples, that he should bottle some varietal wines, such was the quality of each of them. He was, to be honest, rather scathing about the idea, since he believes that the true expression of his terroir is in the final blend, rather than in the individual components. Which is fair enough, but these wines are so good that they do - in my opinion - stand on their own as brilliant examples of what is possible on the southern slopes of the Alpilles.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Chateau_d_EStoublon___Provence.html#a674" target="_blank">Estoublon Mono-Cépage Grenache 2009 Vin de Table</a></b></div>
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The colour is a reassuringly pale/medium raspberry, with a slight tawny hue, whilst the nose is delightfully elegant, with aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and old leather fairly leaping from the glass, and subtle hints of sous-bois, graphite, truffle and soft citrus peeping through. There's also a gentle waft of very fine eau de vie, although despite the 15.25% (yes fifteen) abv, there is little suggestion of heat, either on the nose or the palate. Indeed, it is really rather fresh and elegant, with a veritable bucket-load of fresh and crystallised red fruit and soft citrus flavours, barely perceptible tannins and plenty of mouth-watering acidity. In the space of around a year since I last tasted it, this really has blossomed into something really quite lovely and more-ish - in short, a wonderfully balanced wine, which is a real delight to drink. Burgundy snobs might well throw their arms up in horror at my suggestion that a wine like this can be so fresh and elegant, but I would venture to say that it is almost "Burgundian" in structure. On the other hand, lovers of nearby Chateauneuf du Pape might be surprised that a 100% Grenache from outside of "their" region could be so utterly compelling. None of your 101 point Parkerised soup here, I'm afraid. Actually, I've heard more than one vigneron call Grenache the "Pinot Noir of the south" - and on this evidence, they are not far wrong. Wonderful wine. £19.99<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Chateau_d_EStoublon___Provence.html#a673" target="_blank">Estoublon Mono-Cépage Syrah 2009 Vin de Table</a></b><br />
Deep, translucent blood red. Identifiably Syrah - bramble, blackcurrant, violets and herbs, again steeped in the finest eau de vie, with enticing hints of tobacco and damp earth. As with the Grenache, the alcohol (15.5% in this case) neither burns nor overpowers the fruit. Yes, it is rich and spicy, but gloriously tangy and balanced, with cherry skin and citrus flavours, ripe tannins and ample acidity ,all of which combine seamlessly with the abundant red and black fruit flavours. In fact, this is anything but soupy - quite the opposite. And it certainly passes the "more than one glass" test with aplomb. Elegant? No. More-ish? Yes indeedy! £19.99<br />
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Oh, and by the way, 28 September 1985 was hot and sunny. How do I remember? Because that was the day I married the lovely Diane. How lucky am I?! And to celebrate, we have been enjoying a bottle of Francis Boulard Les Murgiers Extra Brut Champagne. No tasting note - but it is very yummy - just like my wife! As is this wonderful bottle of Paul Jaboulet Ainé Domaine de Thalabert 1988 Crozes-Hermitage.<br />
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Well, a special occasion demands a special wine, don't you think?<br />
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TTFN.............<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-10981526565589466932013-09-11T18:23:00.001+01:002013-09-12T17:16:31.370+01:00The importance of family (plus wine and life in general)<div style="text-align: justify;">
I haven't posted on this blog anywhere near as much as I would like in recent times, which is down to a combination of circumstances - namely family, wine business and (frankly) sheer laziness. Anyway, by way of an update...........</div>
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July and August have come and gone in the blink of an eye, with no less than 5 pallets of new wines (from around a dozen different growers) and all that such activity entails. Not to mention a whole lot of other activity on the wine front - which, thankfully, entailed a decent amount of selling of the stuff(!) And of course we have enjoyed the best summer we've had in many a year, which meant plenty of lazy evenings spent barbecuing on the patio, eating lots of great food and enjoying plenty of good wine. No excuses at all - when it comes down to a choice between blogging and lazing about on a balmy evening, there is only going to be one winner. Food, wine and the company of family wins every time.</div>
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I have also to a certain extent been preoccupied with my Mum. Regular readers may know that she's not been too healthy recently. Following a bout of pneumonia in December last year, plus another couple of stays in hospital in Spring, she has been battling ill-health for most of this year. With an ever-increasing cocktail of drugs (Warfarin, Digoxin and a veritable box-full of other stuff), weekly visits to the health centre for blood tests and a constantly uphill battle against the resulting heart failure symptoms, she's had a right old time of it. Although she is 84 and has been afflicted with COPD for a number of years, she has always been extremely active and enjoyed an excellent social life. But this year has been different and - despite the wonderful summer - her illness has certainly taken its toll. Indeed, last week, I was beginning to wonder whether she would see the month out, never mind the year. It was all very depressing - not least for her, but also for me and the rest of the family. But over the past few days, lo and behold, she seems like a different woman. Something is working, and she seems much more chipper than she has in quite a while. Of course, it is still one day at a time, but every sign of improvement is a blessing.</div>
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Add to that the fact that my youngest son Daniel has had a promotion at work, oldest son Alex has found a new job, and they are both therefore happier (and better off financially) and it all adds up - for now at least - to all being well with the world. Of course, it cannot last (does it ever?) but whilst it does, I'm going to enjoy it. These are the days.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Chicken marinating in a spicy sauce, with onions, garlic, mushrooms, chillies and capsicums -<br />- and a rather more-ish red Burgundy to aid the preparation!</i></td></tr>
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When I first started writing this entry a couple of days ago (see what I mean about being distracted?!) I was about to cook a wonderful chicken stir fry, prepared whilst enjoying a wine picked up at a bargain price from a local bin-end supplier, namely, the <b>Blason de Bourgogne 2008 Beaune</b> you see in the picture. Made by a mere "negociant" - or at least a large producer that buys-in most of its grapes, in the form of a co-operative - it is a decent, fruity, uncomplicated wine with plenty of Pinot/Burgundy character. It isn't complicated or even particularly concentrated - in fact, it is almost alarmingly light in colour, and would certainly not go down too well with those looking for bags of fruit or body. But it does what it says on the tin, with sour cherry, cedar and damp earth aromas and flavours and cracking acidity. And at around the same price as your average supermarket BOGOF, it provided brilliant value for money. Oh, and it went beautifully with the stir fry!</div>
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Anyway, now I have eased myself very gently back into the blog, I intend to publish my notes on a rather good tasting of Californian red wines, last week at Nottingham Wine Circle. That will be within the next day or two........ Meanwhile, I am off for this week's edition - a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir special!</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-19390117456615592432013-08-14T13:44:00.001+01:002013-08-14T15:37:19.205+01:00Rare as hen's teeth - affordable white Burgundy<div style="text-align: justify;">
Every once in a while, a wine presents itself on my lap (or at least arrives as a special parcel at a local trade supplier) with a quality level and price that makes it impossible for me to resist. Even less often, it turns out to be something that is becoming a bit of a rarity these days - high-quality <u>affordable</u> Burgundy. So when I tasted this wine last week, I picked up a few cases - one for myself (if not more!) and the rest for my customers. Some of it is already spoken for, so if you like the sound of it enough to want to buy a few bottles, then be quick, as it won't stick around for too long................<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/White_Burgundy.html#a339" target="_blank">Domaine Yves Girardin Chateau de La Charrière Santenay Sous La Roche 2007</a></b><br />
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Sous La Roche is a "lieu-dit" (a named single vineyard) in one of the less-celebrated (and therefore more under-the-radar) appellations of the Côte de Beaune. But don't let that fool you, for this is top-notch village Burgundy, at less than the price of a decent basic Bourgogne. The nose is a riot of citrus fruits, grated zest, soft tree fruits and apple, with a strong impression of flinty/stony minerality and a just hint of struck match. Indeed, it smells and tastes for all the world like something very decent from nearby Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault. It is so packed with fruit and mineral nuances, it almost makes the nose prickle. The palate is racy and, like the nose, crammed full of lemon, lime and juicy apple flavours, with subtle herb and spice nuances - ripe and full, but with a wonderfully bracing mineral streak and a core of mouth-watering acidity. The finish is long, although you might not notice for a while, as it keeps you coming back for another sip. At 6 years of age, it is pure, clean, elegant and really just getting into its stride. And whilst it is a real joy to drink now, you could age it for another year or two yet - probably a lot more, if you dare risk the dreaded white Burgundy "pox"! Personally, I will drink my case with pleasure now, and over the next year or so...... if it lasts that long! Decent village/single vineyard Burgundy (either white or red) at this price is as rare as hen's teeth these days - and this is an absolute steal! 13.0% abv. <b>£11.95</b>.<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-23554528845623303462013-08-08T14:37:00.000+01:002020-06-06T14:52:03.837+01:00Terre des Chardons - a very exciting discovery<div style="text-align: justify;">
I first read about the wines of Terre des Chardons in an <a href="http://www.frenchmediterraneanwine.com/2013/06/languedoc-terre-des-chardons-costieres.html" target="_blank">article by Richard James</a>, one of the more unheralded Languedoc-Roussillon specialist writers and bloggers. It was only a week or so before I was due to go on holiday, but Richard's impressions of the wines (especially as he doesn't dish out praise lightly) had me all excited and determined to try and organise a visit. A quick Google, followed by a couple of emails to owner and winemaker Jerome Chardon did the trick and so, on the way to our holiday base in deepest Languedoc, we made the detour to Bellegarde, in the most south-easterly corner of the Costières de Nimes region. As is often the case, it took a bit of finding, being a couple of kilometres down a series of narrow, winding roads, with a mix of dirt and tarmac. As the crow flies, it is only a few hundred metres from the autoroute. In practice, it is one of those sort of places that feels like miles from anywhere, so isolated and tranquil is it. And I am so glad we made the visit, for it turned out to be a very rewarding journey of discovery.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Jerome Chardon</i></td></tr>
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The Chardon family moved from Touraine (in the Loire Valley) to Bellegarde in the early 1980's, where they bought some land and began farming fruits such as apricots and cherries and vegetables, converting to organic farming a few years later. When their son Jerome graduated from his studies in agronomy in 1993, he moved to the estate to assist his parents. At the same time, he planted vineyards with Syrah and Grenache, and also bought an established vineyard planted with Clairette (the local white variety). Because much of Jerome's time was still devoted to the fruit and vegetable side of things, he employed the services of a certain lady by the name of Julie Balagny to manage the winery, which she did for the next 4 years. I have it on good authority - from more than one source - that Julie is now making big waves (and great wines) in Fleurie. I mention this because, by complete coincidence, I had had it in mind to arrange a visit with Julie earlier in the day, on our way down through southern Burgundy, but my (probably misplaced) perception of her fearsome reputation, and the fact that she probably wouldn't have any wine left to sell, dissuaded me. I must remedy that some time, because her wines sound wonderful! Suffice to say that Julie's passion for biodynamic viticulture rubbed off on Jerome Chardon, for the estate has for many years now been certified as both organic and biodynamic. </div>
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Jerome Chardon is a gentle, unassuming man, with a clear passion not just for organic and biodynamic viticulture, but for the whole ethos of sustainable farming and respect for tradition. This even extends to the winery, which Jerome built himself next to the farmhouse, from natural materials. The walls are made from the same stone that was used by the Romans to build the nearby Pont du Gard. Each one is 2.1m wide, 0.9m high and 0.6m thick and weighs a whopping 2.5 tons! The roof structure consists of untreated oak beams and rafters, traditional baked earth tiles and 8cm thick cork insulation. The result is an extremely functional and cool yet really rather beautiful chai. The tasting table is actually a huge (and very ancient) grape press, which was rescued from a Burgundy grower who was about to send it to the tip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lhYhlcHDYI/UgIVaut2PHI/AAAAAAAABX4/E-_wSqcmR1g/s1600/TerredesChardonsCellar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lhYhlcHDYI/UgIVaut2PHI/AAAAAAAABX4/E-_wSqcmR1g/s640/TerredesChardonsCellar.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The cellar - note the "bricks", weighing 2.5 tons each!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The idyllic setting of the Chardon farmhouse, with the winery on the right</i></td></tr>
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The 9 hectares of vineyards (2 ha of Clairette, 4.3 ha of Syrah and 2.1 ha of Grenache) surround the property, along with fruit and olive trees. The soil consists of the same sort of siliceous rocks that are the hallmark of the Costières de Nimes region, and of course Chateauneuf du Pape, a few kilometres up-river, whilst the vines are trained on wire trellises, in order to facilitate good air circulation. No chemicals (apart from the occasional treatment with a very weak "Bordeaux mix") are used in the vineyards, the only regular treatments being completely natural herbal and biodynamic sprays and soil treatments, plus shallow tilling to keep weeds to a manageable level (with a flock of sheep doing their bit for the cause through the winter!). Similarly, no chemicals are used in the winery, save of course for a little SO2 at the fermentation and bottling stages. The grapes are de-stemmed and some parcels fermented traditionally, whilst others go through a sort of semi-carbonic maceration, depending on the style required from each parcel. Fermentation is entirely reliant on the naturally-occurring indigenous yeasts. Picking, racking and bottling are all carried out in accordance with the phases of the moon. Rather importantly (in fact crucially, in my opinion) the wines are all aged in vat - the only oak barrels in sight are old and purely ornamental. Which - biodynamic practices aside - is one of the main reasons why the wines all taste so alive and "un-mucked-about-with" - as you will gather from my rather enthusiastic tasting notes!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MaJnkjrM31Y/UgIWYq0qZJI/AAAAAAAABYI/tllhfX2eows/s1600/TerredesChardonsvines.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MaJnkjrM31Y/UgIWYq0qZJI/AAAAAAAABYI/tllhfX2eows/s640/TerredesChardonsvines.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>These vines are in extremely rude health!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Olive groves are also a feature of the estate, not to mention some majestic cedars and cypresses</i></td></tr>
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Jerome makes 3 different dry red cuvées, a rosé, two dry whites (a "regular" Clairette and a "reserve") and also a late-harvested sweet Clairette. We didn't taste the reserve Clairette or the sweet wine (we have more than enough of those to be going on with). Apart from the Clairette, all are from the 2012 vintage (the Clairette may be slow to shift, but the reds obviously fly out of the door). All of these wines came in last week, so are available for you to buy. So what do they taste like.........?
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<b>Clairette de Bellegarde 2010 </b><br />
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100% Clairette, harvested at just 35 hl/ha (between 6 and 8 bunches per vine). Pale straw colour. The nose is smoky, herby and spicy at the same time, with notes of over-ripe apples, apricot and lime marmalade. The palate is quite rich, even gently oily in texture, nicely fruity in a lemon and lime sort of way, with a rich seam of herbs and spices and even a touch of grape tannin, which leads to a long, tangy finish. It is considerably complex and concentrated, and whilst the acidity isn't high, it is a match for many an expensive southern Rhône white and really does come into its own with food. 13.5% abv. </div>
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<b>Rosée d'Été 2012</b><br />
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70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. A delightful pale copper/pink colour, offering aromas of ripe red fruits, peach, apple and orange blossom and an intriguing touch of florality and smokiness. The palate is soft, almost creamy, medium-rich, with loads of summer fruit flavours, shot through with garrigue herbs and a gentle spiciness, cracking acidity and a long finish. This is serious rosé, not cheap, but definitely on a par with many of the more expensive Provence rosés (Bandol included). Lovely stuff! 12.5% abv. </div>
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<b>Bien Luné 2012 Costières de Nimes </b><br />
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50% Syrah, 50% Grenache. This is so fresh, so intensely aromatic - it simply reeks of violets and lilies, damsons and cassis. Indeed, if you didn't know better, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in the northern Rhône! The palate is one of real contradictions - wonderfully fresh, elegant and airy, but at the same time intense, concentrated and considerably complex. A core of ripe, tangy red berry fruits, black cherry, a lick of blackcurrant and a gentle herbaceous streak, married to ripe tannins and mouth-watering acidity, make for something really rather special. When I first tasted this wine, I was amazed to find that it contained any Grenache at all, for it smells and tastes for all the world like a pure Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage or even Hermitage - it really is that good. I was also pleasantly surprised to hear that it spends no time in oak whatsoever - indeed, none of the wines from this estate do - which allows the fruit to express itself to the full. And the best thing about it is that it is so good to drink now, despite its obvious age-worthiness. Wonderful wine. 12.5% abv. </div>
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<b>Marginal 2012 Costières de Nimes</b><br />
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80% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Initially a touch closed, with dark, smoky, mineral, citrus peel and tobacco notes. It opens-out nicely after a few minutes, revealing complex aromas of cassis, raspberry, cherry, black olive and lilies. As with its "Bien Luné" sibling above, it manages to be both delicate and light on its feet, yet possessed of a core of rich, concentrated black fruits and soft citrus, with subtle flavours of tapenade, garrigue herbs and warm curry spices (perhaps courtesy of the Grenache element, which shows a little more in this cuvée). Once again, the velvety tannins and ample acidity combine with all of that wonderful fruit (and no oak, remember) to give real definition and focus, all the way through to a very long finish. Another superb wine, from one of the star estates of the future. Voted the best Languedoc red at the 2013 "Signature Bio" competition. 12.5% abv. </div>
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<b>Chardon Marie 2012 Costières de Nimes</b><br />
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100% Syrah. This is the estate's top red wine, named in honour of winemaker Jerome Chardon's grandmother, Marie (Chardon-Marie is also the French name for milk thistle, hence the label design and the play on words). It comes from the best parcel of Syrah vines - and it shows. The nose simply reeks of all manner of red and dark fruits, especially raspberry, blackcurrant and red cherry, with complex floral and savoury undertones such as violets, black olive tapenade and just a hint of meat/leather. There's no oak, remember, but a wine as good as this doesn't need oak. It is so clean, so fresh, so full of life and youthful vigour, with a palate crammed full of concentrated fruit and herb flavours. There's an intriguing touch of saline minerality, countered by a cool, almost minty quality, whilst velvet tannins and a rasp of gloriously prickly acidity make for a supremely balanced and deceptively elegant wine. The finish is delightfully sweet and sour - and very long. This is very much in the Northern Rhone style of winemaking (with a nod to the elegance of the Côtes de Nuits) and, whilst unbelievably good to drink already, has the capacity to age and evolve into something even more beautiful, over the next 5 to 10 years. A very special wine, which (for me) sets a new benchmark for the appellation. 13.5% abv.<br />
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So there you have it - a brilliant grower, and brilliant wines. Indeed, the reds are a real eye-opener, and redefine for me what is possible in this little corner of south-east Languedoc. In fact, not only do they set a new benchmark for the Costières de Nimes appellation, they are simply some of the best Languedoc Syrah-based wines I have ever tasted. Trust me - they are <u>that</u> good!<br />
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<b><u>Update - June 2020</u></b><br />
The latest vintages from Terre des Chardons are available to buy via our new website, by clicking the following link;<br />
<a href="https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/terre-des-chardons-bellegarde-biodynamic-c102x3788241">https://www.leonstolarskiwines.co.uk/terre-des-chardons-bellegarde-biodynamic-c102x3788241</a><br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-63484151536050852682013-07-12T13:54:00.001+01:002013-07-12T14:05:25.455+01:00Two wines from the Loire Valley<div style="text-align: justify;">
One of the perks of being in the wine business is that I often get to drink free wine (usually from various growers on my list, and occasionally those looking for me to import them). But I recently received an offer of a couple of bottles, courtesy of a certain French wine promotional organisation, purely it seems for the sole purpose of blogging about them. Of course, I have in the past had numerous offers of some or other product to review, despite the fact that they were in no way related to wine - and I have (for obvious reasons) refused. But wine is different! Not that I would want to fall into the trap of receiving such samples on a regular basis, simply because I don't want to feel obliged to write about them. And if I did write about them, I certainly wouldn't shy away from writing something negative, if called for. Thankfully though, this pair from the Loire, which I decided to accept (purely in the name of research, you understand!) were not bad at all...................</div>
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<b>Fief Guérin Vieilles Vignes 2011 Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Sur Lie</b></div>
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Pale straw-gold, with an attractive nose of stone fruits, cut lime, wet stone and a slight hint of the sea. Being a "sur lie", I was expecting a touch of leesy richness to the palate, but it is in fact steely dry and really quite lean, with flavours of unripe apples, lemon pith and just a slight hint of peachiness. Needless to say, it doesn't lack for acidity, and a streak of stony slightly salty minerality adds to the feeling of austerity. That said, Muscadet (at least in my limited experience) was never about opulent fruit flavours, and as an aperitif, it certainly makes the mouth water and gets the taste buds flowing. We drank it with a selection of cured hams, mousse de foie gras de canard, cheeses and salad, and it really did work quite well, although I think my perfect match for it would be moules a la mariniere. At £7.49 from Waitrose, it provides fairly good value, although its combination of dry, pithy fruit and searing acidity may come as quite a shock to all but the most seasoned Muscadet campaigners.</div>
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<b>Famille Bougrier Rosé d'Anjou 2011 </b></div>
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A blend of Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Grolleau. Quite the loveliest salmon/cherry pink colour. There's an initial touch of reduction on the nose, but this blows off quickly. From there, it is all about fruit - red and black berries, peach, apricot and even a slice of tart apple for extra freshness. Even though I am a confirmed Languedoc-Roussillon addict, I have always tended to favour rosés from the Loire. The relative lack of ripeness in the cooler north lends itself to fresher, fruitier, less alcoholic wines, and at just 11% abv, this one is light enough to allow all of those fresh fruit flavours to shine. There is even a smidgen of residual sugar, which helps it to slip down very easily, though not at the expense of some refreshing, almost orangey acidity. All-in-all, this is a pretty decent rosé for the money (£4.69 from Morrisons). It paired well with some barbecued steak and chipolata sausages we brought back from France, and made a refreshing alternative to the usual full-bodied reds. And as TLD is a Morrisons employee (and shareholder) I am happy to recommend it - especially as I/we didn't have to pay for it! ;-) It is also available from the Wine Society, though at the rather surprising price (given some of their insanely low mark-ups on certain other wines I could mention) of £6.95. Then again, the Morrisons price has all the hallmarks of a typical supermarket loss-leader.<br />
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Lots more on my Languedoc trip coming up very shortly.........<br />
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-78865019126676564942013-06-25T23:55:00.000+01:002013-08-16T16:21:38.790+01:00A visit to Domaine Turner Pageot<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>Although I promised recently that I would be posting lots of entries on the blog, whilst on holiday in sunny Languedoc, that was before I realised just how much material I would gather in the process. At a conservative estimate, I would say we have already tasted around a hundred wines, from around a dozen different growers, with more to come tomorrow! So as you can imagine, it didn’t take long for me to begin to feel rather daunted by the prospect of transcribing my notes, not only on so many wines, but also so many growers with such interesting stories to tell. Not to mention sifting through countless photos (hopefully some of which may turn out to be half-decent). And, of course, this is our annual holiday, so whilst TLD and I cannot fail to enjoy the time we spend meeting, tasting wines (and often eating) with so many lovely people, we also need time for rest and recuperation. And the rather glorious weather we have enjoyed (save for a couple of iffy days last week) makes the patio and the pool all the more tempting. Nevertheless, I am determined to get at least something published before we leave (what I write now saves me time further down the line, especially if some of the wines are going to end up on the LSFineWines list) so here’s a good one for starters……………. </em></div>
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The landscape along the road heading north from Pézenas to Roujan and Gabian, then on towards Bédarieux, is almost completely dominated by vineyards. It is a landscape we know well, having been coming to this region of Languedoc on and off for the last 20 years or so. Indeed, Les Vignerons de La Carignano, the quaintly-named grower co-operative in Gabian, which lies 10 kilometres or so north of Pézenas, was one of the first wine-related visits I ever made, back in the days when I was a mere wine “amateur” (or even novice!). At the time, La Carignano was blazing a bit of a trail for Languedoc wines, garnering much praise from the likes of Oz Clarke. And they were indeed very good wines. So much so that when we first created Leon Stolarski Fine Wines, theirs were some of the first wines we added to the list. </div>
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Fast-forward to 2013 and La Carignano has long since ceased to exist - as have many other co-operatives in the region - having struggled to adapt to the changing market, dwindling demand (from both home and foreign markets) and competition from the ever-increasing number of independent growers. And frankly, the quality did take a dip in the few years before they finally closed in 2007. The upside was that some quality vineyards came up for sale, for whilst a few of the members decided to set up as independents (and no doubt a few chose to take government subsidies to rip up their vines and turn to other crops) many of the older members simply sold their vineyards and retired. </div>
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And so it was that younger vignerons like Karen Turner and her husband Emmanuel Pageot were able to seize the opportunity to move in and inject some new life and vigour into a village that shows all the signs of becoming (as Emmanuel puts it) a “dying village”. Of course, they may not change the ultimate fate of Gabian itself, but if the quality of their wines are anything to go by, they will at least succeed in fully realising the potential of those established vineyards and some great (and very varied) terroir. </div>
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I first met Emmanuel at The Outsiders tasting in London last November and really loved the wines that he and Karen were making. So it was great to meet up again with Emmanuel, this time in his cellar in Gabian. Unfortunately, I have still to meet Karen, as she was out working her day job, which just happens to be head winemaker at one of Languedoc’s most iconic estates, Prieuré de Saint Jean de Bébian. As Manu said, it helps to pay the bills! </div>
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Before tasting the wines, Manu took us on a tour of the Turner Pageot vineyards, small parcels of which are dotted around the hillsides surrounding the village. They have several different parcels of Grenache and Syrah, plus Mourvedre, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, plus a small amount of Marsanne. Altitudes range between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, and the aspects and soil types are many and varied, including schiste (shale), argilo-calcaire (clay-limestone), Myocene-era clay-limestone, volcanic basalt/limestone and bauxite. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SM6jXhXTuls/UcpP4gMGKeI/AAAAAAAABVY/RqRVCVvKVEI/s1600/P1030087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SM6jXhXTuls/UcpP4gMGKeI/AAAAAAAABVY/RqRVCVvKVEI/s640/P1030087.JPG" width="640" xya="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Sauvignon Blanc, lying to the south of the village</em></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWB7vj2Lg0I/UcpQPZrtAFI/AAAAAAAABVg/zcinbfhM5cQ/s1600/P1030092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="326" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWB7vj2Lg0I/UcpQPZrtAFI/AAAAAAAABVg/zcinbfhM5cQ/s640/P1030092.JPG" width="640" xya="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>I think this is Marsanne or Roussanne - so many photos and not enough notes!</em></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WG4QoGF6Jc/UcpQ8WAW0aI/AAAAAAAABVo/PsWf5ryh_7Q/s1600/P1030098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WG4QoGF6Jc/UcpQ8WAW0aI/AAAAAAAABVo/PsWf5ryh_7Q/s640/P1030098.JPG" width="640" xya="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Manu, checking for signs of mildew and uneven flowering (considering the long Winter and cool Spring, things are beginning to catch up - and the vines are in remarkably rude health)</em></td></tr>
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After seeing the vineyards, we repaired to the cellar, for a tasting of the current releases from bottle. The cellar and house are situated in the middle of the village - it is quite small, but well-equipped, and they are in the process of buying the house next door, which will effectively give them twice the living space and a much larger cellar. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iKLa8fdpwRs/UcpR3vzkEEI/AAAAAAAABV4/AZw2uj-J7zY/s1600/P1030102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iKLa8fdpwRs/UcpR3vzkEEI/AAAAAAAABV4/AZw2uj-J7zY/s640/P1030102.JPG" width="640" xya="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The cellar is cramped, but well-equipped</em></td></tr>
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Unlike many growers (especially in the south) Karen and Manu like to encourage warm fermentations for their grapes (anything up to 30C) and, aside from the very occasional stuck fermentation, prefer not to add yeast, relying on the naturally-occurring yeasts to do their job. And apart from occasional spraying of sulphur and copper in the vineyards, they use no sulphites until the point of bottling, and even then, no more than 4 to 6 grams per litre. The aim is to have less than 20g/l of free sulphites in the finished wine. The reds are unfiltered. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention (though you may have already guessed!) that they are fully certified as both organic and biodynamic. And so to taste the wines (<i>August 2013 edit - prices and website links now added, as these are now in stock</i>)………
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<strong><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Turner_Pageot.html#a8" target="_blank">Le Blanc 2012 - AOP Languedoc </a></strong></div>
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80% Roussanne and 20% Marsanne. The former is fermented traditionally, whilst the latter sits on the skins for 3 months, resulting in what is known as an “orange wine”, which adds not only some extra colour to the wine, but also a real depth of aroma and flavour. Notes of apples, raisins and brioche. Really quite zingy, with excellent acidity to match the rich, ripe tree fruit, orange zest, basil and rosemary flavours. There is also real minerality, with an almost savoury, even saline tang. Restrained power, but with a refreshing streak, and a long, spicy/herby finish. 14.0% abv. <b>£13.50</b></div>
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<strong><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Turner_Pageot.html#a9" target="_blank">La Rupture 2012 - Vin de France </a></strong></div>
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100% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% of which is also given the “orange” treatment. The nose is rich and apricotty, with notes of lime oil, orange marmalade, basil, flowers and a whiff of beautifully judged oak. It leads you to expect a rather muscular wine, but quite the opposite – it is a considerably complex wine, chock full of delicate white fruit and floral flavours, apple, pink grapefruit and soft citrus, with a really fine, minerally structure and wonderfully prickly acidity. And absolutely no cat pee or elderflower! In a blind tasting, not many would guess it as Sauvignon, but who cares when the wine is this good. A really brilliant, quirky and utterly delicious wine. 14.0% abv. <b>£17.50</b></div>
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<strong><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Turner_Pageot.html#a11" target="_blank">48H – Vin de France</a></strong> </div>
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OK, hands up those who have had more than a handful of Clairets in their time (if any)? Clairet is a term the Bordelais use for a light red wine, or a very dark rosé. The method is basically saignée (the free-run juice) but taken only after an extended 48 hour maceration (hence the name 48H). The colour is more of a bright ruby red than rosé, and the nose is distinctly fruity, with notes of raspberry and redcurrant, subtle hints of peach and apricot and a delightful smokiness. There is a welcome hint of rusticity to the palate – and even a touch of grape skin tannin - but it is essentially soft and gloriously fruity, rich and mouth-filling. Think of a young Pinot Noir or Gamay and add a touch of soft, ripe southern fruit and you’re just about there. A really delicious, even quite serious wine. 14.0% abv. <b>£11.95</b></div>
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At this point, Manu poured us a sample of his <strong>2012 Marsanne orange wine</strong>, currently ageing in new oak barrels (Vosges oak, with a medium toast) where it will stay for up to 2 years. It smells rather like a traditional white Gran Reserva Rioja (i.e. absolutely wonderful) and the colour is quite a deep orange. The nose offers intense aromas of apricot, orange, lime oil and oak vanillin. The palate is rich and very intense, with the combination of wood and grape tannins making it quite dry and difficult to taste at the moment, but I suspect it will turn into something rather spectacular when it is ready. </div>
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<strong><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Turner_Pageot.html#a14" target="_blank">Le Rouge 2011 – AOP Languedoc – Pézenas </a></strong></div>
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60% Grenache from schiste, 20% Grenache from other terroirs and 20% Syrah from volcanic basalt. Manu described this as going through a post-fermentation infusion, by which I think he meant an extended maceration on the skins. And it is indeed deeply coloured, almost black/purple, with a tiny rim. The nose is pungent with ripe bramble and plum aromas, with notes of bitter chocolate, curry spices and polished old wood. The palate shows plenty of extract, with rich, ripe, tea-like tannins and orange/lemon acidity. It is robust, but so ripe, and full of fresh red and black fruit flavours, a pot-pourri of herbs and spices and not a little minerality, followed by a long, spicy, grippy finish. Lovely now, and should age nicely for a good few years. 14.0% abv. <b>£13.50</b></div>
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<strong><a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/acatalog/Domaine_Turner_Pageot.html#a15" target="_blank">Carmina Major 2010 – Coteaux du Languedoc – Pézenas</a></strong> </div>
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70% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, aged for 1 year in wood, after an extended 3 month maceration. Smoky, tarry and to begin with a touch reductive. Dense and smoky, with rich bramble and plum flavours, opening out with notes of spices and herbs and bright, orangey acidity. I took the bottles home with me and this really opened out nicely with a few hours of air, with the nose revealing aromas of old wood, meat, curry spices and orange peel. The palate is certainly rich, ripe and extracted, but surprisingly elegant. Redcurrant, cherry and bramble fruit flavours combine beautifully with spices, herbs and salty, stony minerality, in a deliciously tangy, sweet-sour whole. A serious (and seriously good) wine, built to age, but surprisingly good to drink now. 14.0% abv. <b>£15.95</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The current range from Turner Pageot - coming soon to a certain UK wine merchant!</em></td></tr>
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Following our tasting, Manu very generously treated us to a 3-course lunch at the local café (for me, some rather good charcuterie and salad to start, followed by veal escalope with creamy potatoes, finishing up with a really delicious, dense mousse au chocolat). Then it was back to the cave for a tasting of the 2012 reds from the tanks and barrels………….
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Firstly, we tasted <strong>Grenache from 3 different terroirs</strong>; </div>
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From bauxite terroir, ageing in tank – Rich, ripe and heady. Tannic, but crammed full of fruit and truffle aromas and flavours. Relatively low acidity. </div>
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From schiste terroir, ageing in barrel – Wow, what a difference! Again, quite tannic and primary, but with loads of fruit and quite wonderful acidity and minerality, making for a very refreshing wine. </div>
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From Limestone terroir, ageing in barrel – A heady perfume of black fruits and violets, iodine, licorice and a hint of fresh apple. Soft, rich, ripe, sweet fruit, with ripe tannins and good orangey acidity. </div>
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Then a couple of <strong>Syrah</strong>; </div>
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From volcanic terroir – Heady black fruit, herb and spice aromas, a touch reduced, with some tarry notes. Almost painfully intense and tannic at the moment, with the acidity hidden. </div>
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From limestone terroir – Fresher nose, very perfumed and floral, with black cherries and eau de vie. Sweeter on the palate, but with more acidity too, and soft(er) tannins. Long and powerful, and destined to be blended with Mourvedre, in the Carmina Major. </div>
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And finally, <strong>Mourvedre</strong> – The colour is almost black. Iodine, chocolate, prunes, bramble, beef and leather. Super-ripe, soft, salty/tangy, big tannin and relatively low acidity. Concentrated and grippy. </div>
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And that was it! After almost 4 hours of talking, driving, tasting, eating and more tasting, we bade farewell to Manu and made the short journey back to the sanctity of our little hideaway and a relaxing afternoon by the pool (the sun was well and truly out by then). All-in-all, a fabulous visit, and I look forward to importing the full range of wines from Turner-Pageot, as soon as we get home. </div>
Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632929314036232391.post-61299775599830685842013-06-18T23:47:00.001+01:002013-06-26T02:45:15.426+01:00Feels like coming home - holiday time!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Well, not <em>really</em> home, but we are ensconced once again in our comfortable little hideaway in Laurens, deep in the heart of Languedoc wine country. Not that we own the place, of course, but we love it so much here that we are happy to pay for the privilege of returning (for the 3rd time) to what really does feel like a home from home. Apart, that is, from the weather, the scenery, the wine, the food, the language and the general pace of life!</div>
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Our journey from Nottingham was fairly uneventful. We left at the stroke of midnight on Friday morning, and actually managed to make the 4am ferry, despite a bit of a scare on the M20, when the car suffered a sudden loss of power. Thankfully, it was just the same "faulty anti-pollution system" that caused it to cut out completely a few weeks ago, whilst driving into Nottingham. But we managed to get to Dover without any problem and the engine light finally went out by the time we got to France. Something to have a look into when we get back to the UK, but I think it may be a case of supermarket fuel clogging-up the system and the fact that it needed a good blast to clear it. And 1,000 miles in 40 hours certainly seems to have done the trick!</div>
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Anyway, once in Dunkerque, we headed south towards Reims and onto the Maconnais in southern Burgundy, for a 4pm appointment and a tasting of some brilliant Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir, made by Emmanuel Guillot at Domaine Guillot-Broux. I'll tell you more about this in a future post. Then it was a half-hour drive to our base for the night in Saint-Gengoux le National, care of my good friend David Bennett and his kindly neighbour, Father Micheal MacAvish, who was there waiting for us with the key - not to mention a very welcome chilled bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne and a selection of nibbles. A decent supper and a good night's sleep was just what the doctor ordered, and by 9am Saturday morning, we were ready for the last part of our journey south. And so we swapped the gentle slopes of southern Burgundy for the rugged landscapes of central Languedoc..........</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>A sunny Friday evening in the Maconnais</em></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>An even more sunny Monday evening in Languedoc (looking north, from the vineyards of Faugeres towards the foothills of the Haut Languedoc)</em></td></tr>
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On the way, we stopped for visits to a couple more wine growers, in the far south-west of the Cotes du Rhone and nearby Costieres de Nimes, with the latter in particular yielding some spectacularly brilliant wines. Again, I will report on these over the next few days, but suffice to say that I was very excited at this new discovery.</div>
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We finally arrived in Laurens at around 7pm, having stocked up on food and supplies in Pézenas. The weather since then has been mostly hot and sunny, though today was rather unusual, in that it was mostly cloudy, but every time the sun peeped through the clouds, it started to spit with rain! The forecast for the next couple of days is for rather changeable conditions, so it is the ideal time to go hunting for wine. We have three visits planned for tomorrow, plus perhaps a couple on Thursday, on which I will also report very soon.</div>
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Meanwhile, it is off to bed.........</div>
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Leon Stolarskihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05277390017788435310noreply@blogger.com1