Nebbiolo and Beaujolais - what's not to like?

Here are a couple of reds that went down very nicely over the last few days. Note to self - must drink more Beaujolais and Piedmont wines!

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2011

A pleasingly light cherry red colour, with light, bright cherry fruit aromas to match. Certainly not one-dimensional, though, with oodles of wild strawberry, forest floor, fresh orange peel and creamy aromas, with subtle hints of mixed herbs and soft spices. Even at this stage, it is deliciously drinkable - not overly complex, but fresh and fruity, with creamy tannins and loads of cherry skin bite and acidity. It might not be profound, but at £12.50, it is pretty good value for a more than decent Piedmont Nebbiolo, and a credit to what is by common consensus one of Europe's top wine co-operatives.

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2010

I used to drink quite a bit of Cru Beaujolais, as I imported wines from a couple of growers who produced some pretty good Morgon, Fleurie, Chénas and Regnié. Then again, I had to drink quite a lot of it, since it proved to be a hard sell to my customers! Suffice to say that I gave up in the end. That said, good Beaujolais seems to be making a comeback, so perhaps I should look to start importing from the region again - especially if they are anywhere near as good as this one. It is certainly at the darker/richer end of the spectrum, with a medium/dark cherry hue and a nose more at the bramble rather than red fruit end of the spectrum, yet wonderfully earthy, spicy and high-toned, again with a lick of orange peel. On the palate, it is classic Beaujolais, with a touch of sweet redcurrant and bramble fruit, countered by juicy, tangy, sour cherry acidity and just the right level of grippy tannin. Add to that a hint of pepper, spice and damp earth and you have a wine that is a real delight. Delicious on its own, but so food-friendly too - the other night it went well with a home-made ox-cheek and kidney pie, whilst last night the remainder was an excellent accompaniment to some Cumberland sausages and pasta, with a rich, spicy, herby, garlicy, oily tomato sauce. This will set you back around 11 or 12 quid, which is again excellent value for top-notch Beaujolais.

Next up will be my report on a brilliant tasting of Rutherglen stickies.........
          

What I've been up to, plus a few interesting recent wines

Oh dear. Looking at the date of my last post, it would appear I have written precisely naff all for over 6 weeks. Not good enough, I know, though the reasons are manifold - with downright laziness being just one of them. To be fair, it has been a strange (and occasionally difficult) few months.

I seem to have spent a good part of my time in hospitals and doctors' surgeries, partly for checks on my own health (thankfully everything seems to be OK again) and partly due to the fact that my Mother has been in hospital on 3 occasions since December, firstly with pneumonia and latterly due to the ongoing after-effects. Seems her heart is a bit weak now, but with a few more trips to the doctor, and an ever-increasing daily coctail of drugs (warfarin next, I believe) she is still alive and kicking. And long may it continue - even at 84, she is certainly not the sort to let it get the better of her. She still lives on her own, in her own house and, whilst we have all been a lot more attentive since her illness, she manages pretty well. That said, I go to see her most days, either to do a few odd jobs or just to keep her company, which (having probably not done so as much as I should have in the past) has been really rewarding for me. Whatever happens, she isn't going to be around forever, so I'm glad it has whipped me into shape now, rather than when it is too late. After all, nothing else in life is as important as the ones we love.

Plenty of other things have been going on in my life, too. Much of March and early April were taken up driving around the country doing wine tastings, whilst May has been spent mostly in the garden - including (to borrow the phrase from Spinal Tap) a bizarre gardening accident, in which I tore some muscles in my side and cracked a rib or two. Of course, I have also been drinking a few decent wines and writing my tasting notes on them as I go along. Indeed, this post has been literally weeks in the pipeline. Problem is, with all the other stuff going on, and the resulting lack of time (not to mention the necessary drive and energy) typing everything up has, until now, simply been a chore too far. Let's face it, I don't earn any money from this blog - I do it for my own enjoyment (and hopefully to help my readers pass a pleasant few minutes!). And believe me, transcribing written notes is just about the most boring job in the world, especially since I am no touch typist! I'm actually considering buying one of those fancy tablets with a stylus pen, which would (if everything I read about them is to be believed) enable me to write on a screen and use an "app" to convert it into a text document. It could transform my dull existence and obviate the need for me to sit at the computer so much. Of course, if any of you have some useful advice on alternatives, please do let me know.

Anyway, for starters, here are my notes on some of the best or most enjoyable wines from the past few weeks (with more to come in future posts)...........

Cono Sur Sparkling Brut NV Bio Bio Valley, Chile

Rich, leesy, lime and lemon aromas and flavours, with a a touch of fresh, sweet apple ripeness, all underpinned by a strong mineral streak. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling all work in perfect harmony, in a bottle that is just in the right place, although I doubt that another year or two more would do it any harm. A lovely friday night aperitif.

Domaine de La Garance Les Claviers 2006 Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

This is a wine that really does take time to open out and show its true colours - in this case, my note is written a full week or more after it was first opened. A hugely complex nose of white flowers, violets, mint, herbs de Provence, mixed spices, lime marmalade, old leather and all manner of white fruits (quince, peach, apricot) and even a suggestion of delicate red fruits. It really is a gloriously complex and flavoursome bottle, with myriad fruit and non-fruit flavours, a touch of tannic grip (even for a white wine) and tangy acidity. Add to that a spicy, herby, southern warmth and you have a quite wonderful wine, with real charm. For a wine that has little added sulphur, it is quite remarkable that it should smell and taste so good, more than a week after being opened. I still have a handful of bottles of this left at £12.95, but once they are gone, that's it.

Domaine La Combe Blanche Pinot de l'Enfer 1998 Vin de Pays des Cotes du Brian

For those of you unfamiliar with Guy Vanlancker's wines, Cotes du Brian has nothing to do with a Monty Python film. Brian (basically pronounced "bree-on" - though you may wish to add a bit of French spit for authenticity) is the local river - though doubtless no more than a trickle in summer - which lends its name for the most local VdP denomination. Indeed, "a local name, for local wines"! This (along with a 2001 Tempranillo from the same l'Enfer vineyard that also showed excellently) was a bottle I had been keeping for a tasting of unusual grape varieties from Languedoc that I presented a couple of weeks ago to Nottingham Wine Circle. It showed very well on the night, but once again (a full week after opening) the last glass was a real treat - which is quite amazing for any Pinot Noir, in my experience. The colour is a quite evolved brick/tawny. It has a wonderful aged Pinot character, more in the way of Claifornia in style than (say) New Zealand or Burgundy, but with a good degree of elegance. Lots of forest floor and rotting red/black fruit aromas and flavours, with classy oak and floral nuances, hints of garrigue herbs and white pepper and lots of secondary/tertiary flavours and a welcome touch of volatile acidity. In fact, after a week, it takes on an almost Musar-like quality. A really lovely wine and even mildly surprising - at least for a 15 year-old Languedoc Pinot Noir. Actually, it is (to my nose and palate) really just coming into its prime drinking window. I wish I had a few bottles left. I must ask Guy if he has any tucked away that I could buy!

Finally (for now at least) I thought it would be nice to try a much younger Pinot from the same stable - in this case an unoaked Pinot from the lower slopes near the village of La Liviniere. I must admit that (for me at least, and the above wine notwithstanding) Guy has yet to really "nail" Pinot Noir. In the Languedoc heat, it tends to have a bit too much of everything for its own good - especially alcohol. And yet....... and yet......

Domaine La Combe Blanche Calamiac Terroir Pinot Noir 2009 IGP Pays Côtes du Brian

This really is rather enjoyable. A pot-pourri of polished wood and leather, damp earth, red cherry, raspberry and bramble, and a whole load of pepper and spice. Even despite the noticeable streak of warming alcohol, it almost seems right for the wine, which (in a curious and totally irrational comparison with Burgundy) is less about the grape than the terroir. A less Burgundian Pinot Noir would be difficult to imagine, but it is full of life and charm and rich with the warmth of the south. And it went beautifully with a barbecued/griddled selection of rump steak, lamb chops and Lincolnshire sausages, with balsamic tomatoes and a pasta salad (remember that nice wether we had last week?). A very yummy wine, which may even get better over the next few years - after all, Guy Vanlancker's wines often reward patience! £10.50 (but only a couple of cases left).

               

Men behaving badly - social media and the wine "professional"

At any given time, lurking somewhere in the depths of my Blogger "dashboard" are a handful of drafts - posts that I have part-written and may or may not eventually see the light of day. Occasionally, I have a clear-out and get rid of the ones which are either no longer relevant or topical, or which I simply cannot be bothered to complete. But the bare bones of what follows have been sitting there for a few months now - essentially, a bit of a rant about the propensity of people - mainly men, to put it bluntly - to force their (often ill-conceived or rash) opinions onto anyone who cares to read them. The most valuable attribute of the Internet can at the same time be the worst - it offers a window to the world, yet provides a certain degree of anonimity for those who wish to sound-off or, in the worst cases, abuse the privilege...............

Although I guess I am a "wine professional", insofar as I import and sell the stuff, it isn't usually a term I apply to myself. The fact that I also write a blog and use Facebook and Twitter is purely incidental (although I feel I do it quite well - in fact, better than some of those so-called professionals). After all, if I were not keen enough to be in the business in the first place, I doubt that I would be moved to share my thoughts about wine in a  public place. No, by "professional", I mean those who write and/or talk about wine for a living - the wine media.

I doubt very much that spats involving - or between - various members of the wine-writing fraternity are a new phenomenon. In my experience, by no means all of them have egos the size of Texas, but it often seems to help, especially if such writers' main means of communication with their readers is via blogs and social media. And let's face it, the importance of the printed word, be it in newspapers, magazines, or even books, seems to wane more and more with each passing year. Don't get me wrong - I love the Internet and can hardly imagine going back to a world without it. And of course I would never have been able to start a wine business without it - a bricks and mortar wine shop would have been (and still remains) way beyond my means and capabilities. And Facebook (and to a lesser extent Twitter) can be a fun way of communicating, not only with friends you see on a regular basis, or those who you see only occasionally/rarely, but also "friends" you have never even met. Just as long as the discussions remain civilised, of course. My mantra for social media is never to say anything to/about anyone on a public (or even private) forum that I wouldn't say to their face. Or at least to try and resist the urge to do so. It doesn't always work out that way, but I suppose we all put our foot in our mouth occasionally!

But I have noticed a fashion emerging amongst certain wine writers recently for posting remarks on Twitter and Facebook that are clearly intended to provoke. Sometimes it may be a link to their latest blog post, other times it may be an isolated remark - something along the lines of "(provocative statement) - discuss". At which point, more often than not, the writer retreats to a safe distance, whilst a mix of casual observers, sycophants and naysayers proceed to slog it out. I even feel the need to stick my two penn'orth in occasionally! A recent example was where the writer (a particularly prolific blogger, tweeter and - to be frank - serial troller) suggested that, because he didn't rate a wine that another (world-renowned) critic scored highly, said critic had somehow lost the plot. He then went on to remark that the very same critic is "a legend, a hero and an inspiration to me, but his scoring is boxing him into a corner."  It all smacks of a "my points are worth more than so-and-so's points" sort of attitude. Even more annoyingly, the original comment was made on Twitter, but also appeared automatically on Facebook, although the writer didn't see fit to reply to any resulting comments by his Faceboof "friends". Which to my mind displays a staggering level of arrogance, not to mention a large degree of contempt for his "friends" or followers. And because this was a far from isolated incident, I felt rather good about deleting this person's Facebook and Twitter feeds from my accounts! 

Another situation which occurred around the same time concerned another equally well-known wine writer (and an MW no less), who became embroiled with mutual a friend/follower on Facebook about the subject of ageing wines - my, what a controversial subject! Whilst many people, myself included, think that too many wines are drunk far too young, our writer friend decided to take completely the opposite view, stating quite categorically that "most whites, except Riesling and (at a pinch) Chardonnay, Beaujolais, most Pinot Noir, a lot of Syrahs, Loire Cab Francs, etc, etc" do not age. I replied that, in my opinion, virtually all of the above (which are any good in the first place, that is) benefit from plenty of age. Back came the reply "No they don't. Most of them are great young too. You need to taste more young Pinots. Which wines evolve in fascinating ways? Chenin, yes, Riesling, yes. Sauternes at a pinch. Hunter Semillon. That's about it." Given the rather dismissive (nay, arrogant) tone of this guy's replies, I decided that there was little point in continuing the discussion. Just as well, really, given that it deteriorated thereafter into a rather unseemly bout of handbags between the two original protagonists, resulting in a very public "unfriending". A very unseemly episode and a lesson in how not to use social media.

And then there is the seemingly never-ending one-man crusade by a wine journalist and fellow blogger to discredit a  producer of sweet wines in the Loire Valley, whose viticultural and vinification methods he suggests are at best contrary to the principles of fine winemaking and at worst illegal. The fact that this grower is particularly highly-regarded by so many wine drinkers (and indeed makes arguably the finest wine of the appellation in question) seems to make no difference to the journalist. Unfortunately, having done so much good work in the past, investigating so many more worthy incidents of real wine fraud, I feel that he is in danger of damaging his own reputation as much as - if not more than - his quarry. 

The thing that links these episodes together (albeit very loosely) is that they are all propogated by men. Not that the fairer sex is entirely blameless, but the nearest I have seen to spats about wine involving women was a bit of "handbags" between Jancis Robinson MW and Robert Parker Jr over the merits of a certain Bordeaux chateau's wine (and I know whose palate I would trust!) and a respected female Loire expert's online discussion/argument with the aforementioned blogger about his vendetta. Again, I know whose side I am on.

But now to the thing that really prompted me to publish this post - the work of a certain lady by the name of Helena Nicklin (a.k.a Winebird), whose interesting take on the wine video genre appears to have split the jury, garnering praise and derision in equal measure. The videos came to my attention via a thread on a UK-based wine discussion forum (which many of you reading this may well contribute to, or at least read). Ultimately, the thread ran to almost 200 posts and I have to admit that, as a man, I was more than a little disappointed - though far from surprised - at some of the derogatory remarks offered by so many regular (and almost exclusively male) contibutors, not to mention the (male) owner of the forum..

Personally, I think they provide an entertaining, light-hearted, yet extremely effective concept in attempting to bring "proper wine" to the masses. And thankfully, a few of the more tolerant and enlightened contributors seemed to agree with me. More importantly, I have a feeling that the same sentiment would be shared by countless hordes of non-wine geeks - surely the sort of people they are actually aimed at (rather than those of us who think we know it all). Of course, a pretty face helps (with apologies to anyone who thinks I'm being sexist, but I'm a red-blooded male!). Would I find the videos so interesting if they were presented by a man? Probably not, but the content would still be relevant and informative. Perhaps "Winehusband" (I believe that is Helena's other half's handle) could make some for the ladies!
        
Should Winebird be accepted into the world of the professional online wine commentator? Damn right she should. Her style might not go down too well with the old guard, whose often elitist and tired approach to the subject of wine is threatened by the more populist style of the new generation, but if it gets more people genuinely interested in wine (rather than just consuming the cheap and cheerful stuff as a beverage) then that can only be a positive.

As for wine commentary as a whole, and the Internet in general, it really doesn't matter whether you are a man or a woman - there's room for everyone. And if you don't like it, then don't read/watch it - but don't just jump in and slag it off without good reason.
            
         

Sensational new Jurançons from Domaine de Montesquiou

Apologies for the rather "sensationalist" headline, but there are occasions when only a tabloid-style title will suffice! And this is one of those occasions, because each time I take delivery of the latest vintages from Domaine de Montesquiou, I am filled with genuine excitement about the mouth-watering wines that lay in store for me. They actually arrived about a week and-a-half ago, but I have been so busy with various tastings and other commitments (wine, family, a poorly mother) in recent weeks that I have barely had time to sit and write them up until now. And my word are they good - indeed, collectively the finest set of wines I have taken from this grower since I started working with them. Which is remarkable, because they have always been nothing less than brilliant in the past. And as if I needed confirmation, both of the dry whites went down extremely well in the tastings I have presented over the last week (as did the 2009 Grappe d'Or, last evening in Grimsby). These are now available via the LSFineWines website, so if you have never tried them, give them a go - and prepare to be bowled over!

Domaine de Montesquiou l'Estela 2012 Jurançon Sec

Clear, pale silvery-gold colour, with a lovely nose of freshly-cut lime, grass, nettles and pea pods. Very floral, too, redolent of spring flowers and elder blossom, dried herbs and a real sense of stony minerality. The flavours are intensely fresh and focused, zingy rather than pithy, with flavours of lime and lemon zest, hints of tart apple and a touch of peach. Medium-bodied, but with excellent concentration of fruit, wrapped around a core of intense minerality and quite breathtaking acidity. Subtle ginger and spice notes linger on a persistent, mouth-watering finish. If you appreciate delicate, nervy whites – light and fresh on the palate, yet with tremendous depth and complexity - then you will love this wine. Furthermore, whilst it is wonderful to drink on its own, it is also a superb match for all manner of foods. Wonderful to drink now, or over the next couple of years - and really benefits from plenty of air. Amazing quality/price ratio, and one of the finest bargains on our list.

Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvade Préciouse 2011 Jurançon Sec

Quite a deep, rich gold colour, courtesy of later harvesting than l'Estela (above) and 10 months in a mix of new and used barrels. This really is a spectacularly lovely and considerably complex wine, with such an evocative nose, combining baked apple and peach, lime oil, banoffee pie and brioche aromas, with intense minerality. Subtle hints of cinnamon, clove and fresh figs, together with beautifully-judged oak contribute even more layers of complexity. The palate shows a quite wonderful concentration of all that goes before it on the nose - at the same time fruity, honeyed and rich, yet simply loaded with intense minerality and nervy acidity, whilst a hint of wood and grape tannin adds depth and makes for a rounded, rich and supremely elegant wine. I would lay money on any lover of fine white Burgundy going a bundle on this and wondering why they pay such large sums of money, when they could have this for a fraction of the price. This really is a stunning wine. 14.0% abv. An absolute steal at £12.50.

Domaine de Montesquiou Grappe d'Or 2011 Jurançon
The grapes for this wine are harvested deep into November, by which time they have begun to dry on the vine, concentrating the flavours, whilst retaining all of the bracing acidity which is the hallmark of Petit Manseng. The colour is a very enticing shiny, rich yellow-gold. The nose has everything, from tangy lemon and lime oil, baked apples and apricots, through to figs, toffee, ginger and exotic spices and herbs. And it almost goes without saying that you can smell the minerality. The palate hits you with a mouthful of sweet, rich apricot and peach flavours, with a viscous but never gloopy texture, and all manner of fresh and preserved citrus and tree fruit flavours. And then, milliseconds later, you get that incredible wave of nervy acidity and steely minerality, followed by a warm, spice and ginger hit at the end. Not that anything sticks out, as it all comes together beautifully, in a wine that keeps you coming back for more. And with every sip, it reveals yet more layers of complexity and wonderfulness! This is the 7th vintage of this wine that I have had the pleasure of writing-up, and not one has ever failed to bowl me over. And this one is no different. I don't know that it is actually better than those that preceded it, but it is certainly as good. It really is a quite stunning wine, and one which I could never tire of drinking. 13.0% abv. One of the great bargains of the wine world at just £16.50 - for a whole 75cl bottle, not one of those silly halves!

Domaine de Montesquiou Vendanges Tardives 2010 Jurançon
Read my note on Grappe d'or (above) and then add on another month or so of hang time on the vines and a few more superlatives, and this is what you get. Several more notches up the ripeness scale, this really is a super-concentrated version. Pure 24 carat gold in colour, with a nose that possesses everything that Grappe d'Or has, along with candied fruits of all descriptions and colours, along with notes of toasted almonds, diesel and woodsmoke, basil and oregano. A hint of honey even suggests a touch of botrytis (on both the nose and palate) whilst the acidity is definitely more tangerine and seville orange than the lemon/lime of its sibling, still wonderfully bracing and tangy, but richer and fuller, and with all sorts of apple crumble, honeycomb, raisin and mixed spice things going on. In terms of richness, ripeness and balancing acidity (and simply as a guide, rather than a flavour comparison) I would liken it to a Mosel Trockenbeerenauslese - and at £28 for a full 75cl bottle, it really does provide amazing value for money. Plus of course it will keep for weeks, or even months in the fridge, once opened - if you can resist, that is! A quite extraordinarily lovely wine. 14.0% abv. £27.95.

More shortly...........
                     

It isn't Chardonnay - it is Burgundy

Apologies if all I have done over the last week or so (or even more) is post tasting notes, but that is what I do well (or try to). And although I have some pretty strong views on other wine-related matters (another Simon Baile wine company in administration, cryo-extraction in Baumard's Quarts de Chaume and the related crusades/vendettas by fellow wine bloggers, for instance) I prefer to avoid controversy and concentrate on the positive things - like sharing the sheer joy of drinking good wine, wherever it comes from.

I've heard it said before (and I have also recounted the saying before) that it would matter not which grapes were grown in Burgundy, but more that they were grown in Burgundy. OK, I am paraprhrasing slightly (I can't be bothered to look the source up) but you get the picture. The suggestion being that Burgundy would produce great wines, whatever the grape. I remain firmly of the opinion that this is not true, but I am also firmly of the opinion that there are few, if any, better places on earth to grow Pinot Noir or - in this case - Chardonnay. In my experience, the Jura states a pretty good case for Chardonnay, as on occasion does California (for both Pinot and Chardonnay, but generally at a much higher price). Which is saying something, as even lower-end Burgundy of both persuasions is now generally beyond the pocket of all but the most avid fans. But there are still some relative bargains to be found, especially in some of the "satellite" appellations of the Côte d'Or, or (more appropriately) in the southern end of greater Burgundy, in the Mâconnais and the Côtes Chalonnaise. And here are a couple of excellent examples............

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Genièvrières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

Well, I did say in my previous post that it would be hard to resist broaching the rest of my little stash of wines from this grower, especially as I am going through one of my (ever more regular) phases of preferring white over red. I opened this last night but – as with La Croix 2010 from the same grower - it is currently showing better after 24 hours in the decanter. I am actually writing this at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, which under normal circumstances is definitely too early for me to be drinking wine. But boy did I need a glass, after the day I’ve had, and boy, oh boy, does it do the job! It really is wonderfully lime-scented, again with an array of freshly-cut hay, basil and oregano notes, and with a strong perception of wet stone minerality – for me, such an enticing quality in any wine (whether white or red). And that stony theme continues through onto the palate – a veritable double-whammy of bracing, citrus-tinged acidity and a dry, almost chalky mineral edge, which really does make your tabs laugh and your eyes water. But in a most enjoyable way, for there are plenty of tart Bramley apple and soft citrus fruit flavours, with perhaps the merest hint of something richer, like slightly under-ripe peach or apricot. All of which amounts to a pretty good knife-edge balancing act – with less fruit, the tartness might make the teeth jangle, but any more and it wouldn’t excite the taste buds so much. Flippin’ ‘eck, it is good wine! And long, too. I guess the options are to drink it now (with a good overnight airing or a vigorous shake if consuming the same night) or keep for 2 to 3 years to let it fill out a little. Any more and you would be in the potential “premox” window, although to be fair, I’ve yet to drink a white wine from this grower that has suffered such a fate. I love it. But unfortunately, my glass is now empty - as is the bottle - so what other option do I have, but to open a.................

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Molières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille
This one is quite a different proposition, not only because it is singing from the start, but also because it has a distinctly smoky scent. Not oaky-smoky, or even reductive-smoky, but wood fire-smoky. And with the amount of tree and hedge cuttings (not to mention the odd Euro-pallet or two) that I have to burn on a regular basis, I do love a good fire. In fact, had I not been brought up to know the difference between right and wrong, I could have had a promising career as an arsonist! Anyway, back to the wine. It still has all of the bracing acidity and deep minerality of Les Genièvrières, but feels just a tad richer, with the Bramley apple augmented by a helping of something a touch sweeter, like a tarte tatin with dessert apples, a sprinkling of demerera sugar, a dash of cinnamon and cloves and a dollop of crème fraiche (now I really am beginning to feel hungry). In fact, in its own way, it is just as thrilling as Les Genièvrières and continues to hit all of the right notes - plenty of fruit, plenty of acidity and minerality by the bucket-load. Not to mention a good deal of complexity, for this would undoubtedly be a match for many a Côte d'Or Village wine (or better) from some pretty serious growers. One way or another, I must get some of these wines on my list - and very soon. Can Mâcon wines compete with the (ever more expensive) wines of the Côte d'Or? On this showing, I would say yes. Brilliant wine.

                    
               

A couple more tasty numbers from southern Burgundy

"Try the Beaumont - it is stunning!" So said my friend David Bennett, who has a house in southern Burgundy and was kind enough to bring me back a box of goodies from Domaine Guillot-Broux, on his most recent trip. And so, being an obedient fellow, and knowing that we have a beef stew with garlic and mustard mash for dinner this evening, I decided to broach my bottle as instructed. And I'm glad I did, for it is truly delicious

Domaine Guillot-Broux Beaumont 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

A riot of crushed redcurrants, raspberries, wild strawberries, white pepper, spice and bits of undergrowth, rubbed around the inside of an old leather shoe. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, if you  didn't know better, you might think it was a rather nice Burgundy frrom somewhere high up and cool. Indeed, it does have a cool, herby, almost minty quality and a really quite pronounced minerality to it, along with a rasp of slightly mouth-puckering, rustic tannin. Not to mention a core of acidity that would doubtless take the breath away from those who may be more used to lush, sweet, extracted wines from much warmer climes. Let's be honest, they would dismiss it as tart, thin, rustic and charmless. But not me - it ticks most, if not all of my boxes, and has enough fruit, tannin and acidity to make me crave for something beefy, stewy, garlicy, mustardy and potatoey. So I'm off to eat....................

Later..........

Right, where was I? Oh yes, the 2011 Beaumont! So what can I say? Of course it isn't Pinot - it is Gamay - but I challenge anyone with a half-decent palate not to love it for it's tart red fruit, it's bracing acidity and minerality, it's food-friendly tannins and it's sheer youthful vivacity - and it's striking similarity to a half-decent young Burgundy. Like all of the good things in life, it certainly puts a smile on my face. So there you have it - whether you drink it whilst still youthful, or age it for 15+ years, this wine is an absolute joy!

         

Domaine Guillot-Broux La Croix 2010 Mâcon-Cruzille

This white (Chardonnay) is pretty good too, as it happens. Not particularly elevated or showy, but it does exactly what it says on the tin, which is to provide enjoyable white Burgundy drinking at a very decent price - especially when compared to similar wines from the Côte d'Or. Delightfully apple-scented, with hints of lime/citrus and once again a cool, almost minty quality. Likewise, the palate is cool, fresh, herby, minerally, with gorgeously zingy, citrus and tart apple fruit and enough juicy acidity to revive the most jaded of palates. Apparently, this spends 10 months in oak barrels, but you wouldn't notice it, for it really is as fresh as a daisy - even (as I type) 2 nights after opening. A delightful wine!

At this rate, the other 4 bottles in my box of goodies are not going to last very long!

         

A brief history of Domaine de Trévallon - worth 7 minutes of any true wine lover's time

Despite the recent paucity of posts on this blog, followed by a real flurry in the last few days, I make no apology for my second post in as many hours(!)

I had the privilege of meeting Eloi Dürrbach of Domaine de Trévallon in 2007, when I visited the estate whilst on holiday in Provence. Despite the fact that I was a little late for my rendezvous (as usual!) Monsieur Dürrbach was very gracious and charming - he glanced up at me over his half-moon reading glasses, with a gently chastising look that said "You're late", but the twinkle in his eye gave him away. Despite my poor French, and thanks to his willingness to converse in a sort of Franglais, I immediately felt at ease, and it was such a thrill to spend 90 minutes or so in his company, tasting the wines (the finished wines from bottle and the constituent parts of the latest vintage from various large old oak foudres), touring his cellar and looking around a few of his 20 or so different vineyard plots, dotted around the hillsides of the Alpilles. The scenery is breathtaking and the terroir is magnificent - and not so much soil as rock. A truly magical place to grow grapes and make wine..........

I never tire of looking at this photo, taken during my visit in 2007.
One of the smaller plots at Domaine de Trévallon - a truly magical place

My own little homage to Domaine de Trévallon in my dining room - alas, all empty!

So imagine my pleasure and surprise at seeing a link to this short video, posted today on the Trévallon Facebook page. It really is a gem of a profile and is surely worth 7 minutes of anyone's time - especially those who share a love of great wines and great winemakers. Enjoy. And many thanks of course to Domaine de Trévallon for sharing it!

In case you hadn't noticed, we at Leon Stolarski Fine Wines stock a range of vintages from Domaine de Trévallon. They aren't cheap, but when you consider that one of France's greatest wines will cost you no more than some Village Burgundies or middling Bordeaux, it kind of puts things into perspective.

You can follow Domaine de Trévallon on Facebook. And of course you can follow Leon Stolarski Fine Wines on Facebook.
              

Yet more new wines - Roussillon (Part 2) - benchmark reds from Domaine Sol-Payré

Concluding my write-ups on a large batch of new wines, here are my notes on a quintet of brilliant reds from another grower whose wines I have been importing almost since the beginning in 2004. Domaine Sol-Payré was created by Gustave Payré in 1913 and therefore celebrates its 100th anniversary 2013. The wines are now made by Gustave's grandson, Jean-Claude Sol and his wife Pascale. Previously based in the centre of the old town of Elne, south-east of Perpignan, the family moved a few years ago to a fine new house and purpose-built winery set in the heart of the vineyards, just a couple of kilometres away. Many of the vines here date back to when the domaine was created, and yields range from just 40 hl/ha down to as little as 32 hl/ha. It is worth noting that the first 4 wines are all aged in stainless steel vats, and therefore see no oak-ageing at all. And when the wines are this good, who needs oak? Modernistas and Parker-pleasers, take note - great wine is all about the fruit!

Domaine Sol-Payre Cuvée Tradition 2011 Côtes du Roussillon

Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. Medium ruby red colour with a light-ish rim. The nose offers enticing aromas of cherries, stewed plums and raspberries. Notes of herby garrigue mingle with leather, toffee apple, forest floor and freshly-baked bread - a proper "winey" nose! The palate is grippy, gently rustic and loaded with fresh, juicy red cherry and raspberry fruit flavours, again with some herby notes and subtle spice. All of that flavour, combined with a healthy dash of lemony, high-toned acidity and just the right level of tannin makes for a wine that is perfectly balanced and deliciously drinkable already. As with previous vintages, this wine shows just how good traditional (and un-oaked) Roussillon reds can be at the "lower" end, with an aromatic and flavour profile not a million miles away from really good Cotes du Rhone - but with extra dimensions of freshness and lift. £9.79

Domaine Sol-Payre Ater Noir 2008 Côtes du Roussillon

Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. The rich bramble, dark cherry and plum aromas typical of this cuvée are all present and correct, with subtle cedar, leather, tobacco and forest floor notes, along with some enticing violet, redcurrant and savoury elements lurking in the background. An abundance of rich, super-ripe, tangy red and black fruit flavours and all of those savoury and floral elements combine with robust tannins and ample acidity, in a wine of considerable concentration, with a long and spicy finish. Already good to drink now (with the right food) it shows even better on the second day, which marks it out as a wine that will age and improve nicely over the next 5 to 8 years, perhaps more. £13.99

The beautiful view over the vineyards of Domaine Sol-Payré, with the foothills of the Pyrenées in the background

Domaine Sol-Payré Vertigo 2009 Côtes du Roussillon

70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. An immensely appealing nose of summer pudding - bready, with oodles of raspberry, red cherry and stewed plums, gently spicy, with subtle herby notes. Despite seeing no oak, there are also some enticing polished mahogany and orange peel notes. It is wonderfully expressive in the mouth, with an abundance of sweet and sour summer fruit flavours, grippy but fine tannins and a delicious backbone of acidity. Whilst really lovely to drink now, I can see this gaining much more complexity over the next few years. Indeed, this is borne out by the fact that it fills out even more over 2 or 3 days, taking on a rich, baked fruit quality, with hints of savoury and warm spices. So enjoy it now, for all of that wonderfully fresh fruit, or let it age and evolve and take on secondary flavours. £13.99

Domaine Sol-Payré Trilogia 2011 Côtes du Roussillon

Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. A blend of 3 grape varieties, from 3 different soil types, all at 300-plus metres altitude in the north of the region, around the Aigly Valley and the Fenouillèdes - Grenache on schiste, Syrah on gneiss and Carignan on granite. Another wine with an immediately appealing and expressive nose. Blueberries, plums and black cherries steeped in eau de vie spring to mind, with subtle hints of violets and herbs, polished leather and brioche. Rich, ripe and packed full of juicy red and black fruits, this really is a deliciously fresh, vibrant, chunky, mouth-filling wine. It isn't a glugger, it is a serious wine with genuine structure, but it slips down so readily, even before food is introduced into the equation. The sweet-sour fruit flavours are shot through with all manner of herb and spice nuances, with a rich, bread/pastry quality countered by beautifully ripe tannins and orange-tinged acidity. Even after a couple of days, it continues to change and just get better. Wines from this estate almost invariably have the dual attraction of extreme drinkability in youth and excellent age-worthiness, and this is a classic example. For it has all of the vibrancy you could wish for in a wine so young, yet undoubtedly has the stuffing to age and evolve for a good 5 to 10 years or more. £18.50

Domaine Sol-Payré Scelerata Âme Noir 2010 Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres

25% each of Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre, aged for 12 months in oak barrels. Rich bramble and plum aromas, with notes of forest floor/damp earth, cigar box, spices and herbs, with a cloak of roasted, coffee-infused oak. Initially quite showy and rich, but with excellent tannin/acid balance. The oak quickly subsides and integrates on the palate, to reveal a lovely wine, full of southern charm, with rich, concentrated fruit flavours - not overtly sweet, but rich, figgy, chocolatey, yet imbued with a freshness and vitality redolent of red fruits (raspberry, redcurrant, even strawberry). It needs a year or two in bottle to fully integrate, but as the estate's flagship wine, it already shows signs of getting into its stride. Long, warming, fresh, beautifully balanced and considerably complex. £18.95
                      

Just another week at the Nottingham Wine Circle - another spectacular Domaine Tempier tasting

I've been typing up the notes for this entry, on and off, for the past 2 or 3 weeks, having been preoccupied with lots of other stuff. However, how could I not post a full report on the second major tasting of Domaine Tempier's wines at the Nottingham Wine Circle in the last 30 months? Let's be honest, most wine lovers would kill for just one such tasting! On this occasion, the wines were presented by two of the group's founding members, Roger Halfpenny and David Selby - and once again for the almost criminally low cost of £15 per person. Amazingly, whether by design or by accident, only two of the wines from that previous tasting were included in this one. So I make that 37 different combinations of cuvée and vintage in just 2 sittings And for reasons I will touch on at the end, it is worth reading both this and my previous report together, by way of a compare and contrast. I've said it before and I will say it again - I feel so privileged to be part of what must be the finest (and collectively most generous) wine tasting group in the country.

Roger Halfpenny and David Selby - and 19 bottles of Domaine Tempier!

Here's a quick reminder of the make-up of the various Tempier cuvées;

• La Migoua is grown on 6 hectares of clay/limestone, at altitudes of between 180 and 270 metres, in the village of Le Beausset-Vieux. 50% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 26 to 28% Cinsault and 2 to 4% Syrah. The vines are, on average, about 40 years old. Yields are between 30 and 35 hl/ha.
• La Tourtine is grown on 6.5 hectares of clay/limestone, on a south-facing hillside in the village of Le Castellet. 80% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache and 10% Cinsault. Vines average around 40 years old. Yields are between 30 and 35 hl/ha.
• Cabassaou is a small parcel on the hillside below La Tourtine, with similar soil. 95% Mourvedre, 1% Cinsault and 4% Syrah. The vines average 50 years old. Yields are kept to 25 hl/ha.
• All of the above are field blends (from within each named vineyard). All of the grapes are de-stemmed, followed by a 2 to 3 week maceration and fermentation. After pressing, the wines are transferred to large oak casks (of between 25 and 75 hectolitres) and aged for around 20 months, before being bottled, un-fined and un-filtered.
• Cuvée Classique is a blend of grapes from Migoua, Tourtine and Cabassaou and goes through an identical vinification process. The blend may differ very slightly, with each vintage - generally, 70-75% Mourvedre, 14-16% Grenache, 8-9% Cinsault and 2-3% Carignan, with yields of between 35 and 38 hl/ha.
• The Rosé comprises 50% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 2% Carignan, with the grapes sourced from all of the named vineyards, from vines averaging 20 year-old

Rosé 2003

Pale onion skin - almost orange. Evolved, winey nose. Rich - as to be expected with the vintage - but not cloying. Orange peel flavours, perhaps slightly pruney, but a surprisingly decent structure, with restrained power. *

Rosé 2001
Although 2 years older, this is much closer to pink, with shades of peach skin. Reeks of raspberries, cream and peaches. Amazingly fruity and alive, herby, soft, but beautifully structured. Long, and with years left in it. Lovely wine. **

La Tourtine 2001
From a classic warm vintage. The nose exhibits orange, raspberry, bramble and damp earth, with just a hint of savoury/meat and curry spices. Soft but nicely structured, with a massive core of red and black fruit. Medium acidity and tannin to match, making for a nicely balanced, approachable wine. That said, it has plenty of life left in it. **

Cuvée Classique 2000
Quite earthy, smoky and meaty, with notes of iodine and mineral notes behind the red and black fruit aromas and flavours. Perhaps a touch stalky, but not lean, although it is (as one would expect from a more "normal" vintage) less generous than the preceding wine. Plenty of acidity. A nice wine, which may improve further. *

Cuvée Classique 1998
Another warm vintage. A generous, expressive nose of leather, exotic spices, raspberries and cream, with an intriguing note of diesel and some classy oak. Generous on the palate as well, with rich black fruits and nice cherry acidity. This has aged so much better than most 1998 southern Rhones I can think of (and still has further potential, though it is good to drink now). Nice wine. **

La Tourtine 1994
Polished old wood and spice, with red and black fruits veering towards the secondary. Delightfully balanced, with utterly mouth-watering acidity and velvety, almost-resolved tannins. Huge complexity, combining red and black fruits, soft citrus, garrigue herbs and curry spices. Glorious stuff, to enjoy now or over the next 5 or more years. **+

La Migoua 1993
This is dense and spicy, yet beautifully soft, winey and totally sexy! There's even a hint of florality to it. Spicy and soft, yet with real complexity, combining fruit, savoury, spice and earth. Another gorgeous wine. **+

La Tourtine 1990
Oh dear - all I get (to begin with, at least) is alcohol, almost like a watered-down spirit concoction. There's a touch of cassis (not exactly a classic Bandol trait), but not really a lot else on the nose. The label states 13% abv, but the flavours are quite hot and frankly lacking interest. Is it faulty, past it or (heaven forfend) badly made? Whatever, it is drinkable, but that's about the best I can say.

La Migoua 1990
The aromas and flavours are somewhat different to La Tourtine - softer, with somewhat more in the way of fruit, but still quite alcoholic. Definitely a better wine (or bottle) but it seems quite a way past its peak and definitely needas drinking quickly. I have a theory that Bandol is a better bet in the "cooler" (relatively - there are few "bad" years in Bandol) years, whereas the hot year wines are rich and unctious when young, but don't age well. And these two wines do nothing to dispel that theory.

La Migoua 1989
This is much more like it. Much brighter and complex, with a lovely structure - gentle tannins and soft, juicy acidity, with a core of sweet fruit and spice. Still warming, but in a balanced, spicy, sensual way, with masses of fruit. A really lovely wine - great now and for a good few years yet. **+

La Migoua 1988
Waves of sweet, rich, seductive spiced fruitcake and winey aromas. Rich, warming and spicy in the mouth, but beutifully balanced and showing considerable elegance, not to mention a good deal of further ageing potential. For a 25 year-old wine, this really is only just coming into its own. A cracking wine. **++


Two of my favourites, the remains of which I enjoyed at home, later that evening

La Louffe 1987

This cuvée is mostly Mourvedre from La Migoua vineyard and is no longer made, since all the fruit now goes into the Migoua cuvée. Winey, with nice, light citrus and raspberry aromas and flavours, with soft spicy nuances...... and unfortuntaely perhaps just a tiny hint of TCA. Not enough to completely spoil the wine. Indeed, several people (myself included) opined that they would still drink it. I suspect that a "clean" bottle would have been completely delicious. *

La Cabassaou 2002
Brett (just a touch), emulsion paint and raspberry compote. Still fairly primary, but a nice wine to drink now, with a good balance of fruit, tannin and acidity. Quite a lot of  new oak, quite minty and high-toned. Quite new-world in style. A nice enough wine, but not typical of Bandol. *+ 

La Cabassaou 2001
Unlike La Tourtine, this displays too many of the less attractive traits of hot years like 2001. Quite hot, on both nose and palate, and whilst it shows reasonable acidity and some decent raisin and cassis fruit, I feel the tannin and alcohol will eventually outlive the fruit. That said, it has some complexity and is very good to drink now (if you like wines with hot characteristics) but if I had some, I'd be drinking it fairly soon. *

La Cabassaou 1999
This is lovely. A complex array of fresh and preserved red and black fruit aromas. A touch of rich "portiness" is offset beautifully by the rich, vibrant fruit flavours and citrus-tinged acidity. Herby, gently spicy, with some cool, almost minty nuances. Juicy, but winey, and just lovely. The best wine so far. **++

La Cabassaou 1996
What's not to like about this? In terms of style and evolution, it is very similar to the 1999 - perhaps a touch drier and more tannic, but showing all of the meaty, earthy qualities one looks for in great Bandol, with plenty of iodine and mineral character and bags of succulent fruit. This is a bit of a sleeper and has many years of life left in it. Superb wine. **+++

La Cabassaou 1995
A soft, seductive and amazingly complex nose of spiced forest fruits, raspberry, bramble, old leather and some intriguing hints of emulsion paint, sherbert and iodine. Wonderfully balanced, almost soft and velvety, gently bloody/meatyy, with almost resolved tannins, cracking acidity and loads of fruit. It's a close call between this and the previous couple of wines, but this one just edges it, if only because it is absolutely at its peak. Yum!  ***

La Cabassaou 1991
Funky and vegetal - this is plumbing the depths. Frankly, it is a bit past it. Certainly not undrinkable, although I probably wouldn't drink it by choice!

La Cabassaou 1989

Once again, this appears to show far too many hot year traits. Smells and tastes hot and alcoholic, with the fruit fading. A wine for brandy lovers.

A couple of slightly duff wines at the end couldn't spoil what was an extremely pleasurable and educational tasting. So what did I/we learn? Well, the main conclusions I drew from it were;

• When made well, Bandol is up there with the world's great wine styles
• When grown in locations such as this, within sight of (or at least within a few kilomtres of) the sea, Mourvedre is one of the world's great grapes
• Domaine Tempier is (historically at least) up there with the very best estates in the appellation - possibly even in the top 1
• As mentioned in my write-up of that previous tasting, it remains to be seen whether or not the change of winemaker can sustain Tempier's position at the very top.
• Wines from normal or cooler vintages are much better prospects for medium/lng-term evolution and represent the true Bandol style and grace. Wines from hotter vintages are better drunk in the short/medium term, before the alcohol overwhelms the fruit.

For more about Domaine Tempier - http://www.domainetempier.com/en/index.php
                          

More new stuff - Roussillon (Part 1) - Classy white, chunky reds and an exceptional vintage Maury

Following on from yesterday's post on some new wines from Domaine Gayda and Chateau Rives-Blanques, here are my notes on more new wines, this time from Domaine Mas de Lavail in Roussillon. I discovered this wonderful estate, just outside the village of Maury, in the summer of 2004 and have been importing from them ever since - though not as often as I would like. Winemaker Nicolas Batlle and his father Jean make a brilliant range of wines, from dry-farmed old (in many cases, very old) Grenache (Noir, Gris and Blanc), Syrah and Carignan. For some reason that I can't put my finger on, they have always been relatively difficult to shift, which is a shame, because they represent some of the best wines (in terms of both quality and value for money) that Roussillon has to offer. In fact, were it not for an article by Jancis Robinson MW in March 2005, in which she recommended the Mas de Lavail 2003 Tradition (resulting in a fair number of sales of that wine) I might still be struggling to find any kind of market for them at all.

In many ways, Mas de Lavail epitomises the struggle for a small merchant like me, who chooses to import wines from quality, artisan growers who have little or no track record in the UK. Other than the occasional review by some or other wine writer, tutored tastings, or word-of-mouth from intrepid customers who are willing to chance their arm on something other than the usual suspects, it can be nigh on impossible to get them noticed. Unless of course a bigger or better-known importer suddenly finds out about them - as has happened to me on a number of occasions. One of the perils of trying to innovate, I guess - there's little to be gained by keeping it a secret.

Anyway, here are my notes on the latest vintages of my favourite Mas de Lavail wines. And because I  import them in such tiny quantities (just a handful of cases of each), there is little point in me firing off a few samples in the hope of gaining favourable reviews. So you'll just have to take my word for how good they are!

Domaine Mas de Lavail Le Sud 2011 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

A blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. Intensely aromatic and floral, with notes of honeysuckle, pine and orange blossom, with subtle notes of lemon zest/oil and wet stone. A mix of both soft and tart citrus on the palate, with apple pie, mixed spice and hints of white pepper and star anise. Essentially rich, honeyed and nutty, it is very pure and focused, with plenty of acidity and a perception of stoney minerality, which kicks in at the end and lingers for a good while on the finish. That said, this is a robust, quite muscular wine, which would not appeal to those who like their white wines light, airy and delicate. But if you like your white wines rich, powerful and nutty/spicy, then you will love this. It will age nicely, too. £13.99

Domaine Mas de Lavail Ballade Carignan 2011 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

All I can say is damn and blast - I wish I had bought (a lot) more! Frankly, even though I have never stocked this in large (or even medium) quantities, I have still had trouble selling it, even despite the relative bargain price. Perhaps even because of it - perhaps people think that it would be a cheap imitation of the real thing, despite the fact that this is a top-notch grower, with yields averaging just 25-30 hl/ha across their range. My goodness, this really is such a cracking wine, with a tremendously evocative nose of raspberries, blackberries, plums and cherries and a whiff of mothballed old clothes kept in an old mahogany wardrobe. Background notes of molasses, mixed spices and fine cigar leaf make for a considerably complex nose. Fanciful, perhaps, but there is only one way for you to find out! The palate is rich, but perfectly balanced and fruity - and elegant. Yes, this is the oft-maligned Carignan we are talking about, but I defy any lover of good red wine not to love this. It has an amazing depth of ripe, concentrated cherry and bramble fruit, complemented by a lick of fennel and liquorice. A wine of restrained power - and yet another wonderful Carignan. £9.50

Domaine Mas de Lavail Cuvée Tradition 2010 Côtes du Roussillon Villages

40% Carignan, 40% Syrah, 20% Grenache, all from vines in excess of 50 years of age. A pungent nose of red and bramble fruits, garrigue herbs, spice and leather, with a gently smoky, meaty character and subtle notes of orange peel, polished mahogany and incense. The palate displays ripe, succulent flavours of summer and autumn fruits, combined with velvety soft tannins and bracing acidity. The classic blend of dry-farmed Carignan, Syrah and Grenache grapes harvested at full maturity makes for a full bodied, complex and concentrated wine that is extremely enjoyable to drink now, but with enough stuffing to age and evolve for a few years yet. This is benchmark Roussillon, made without recourse to oak-ageing (this is aged in vats). And who needs oak, when the fruit is this good? Enjoy it now, or age it for another 3 to 5 years - possibly more. Either way, you are onto a winner. £10.25

Domaine Mas de Lavail Expression 2011 Maury

Made from 100% old vine Grenache, harvested at the peak of maturity. The grapes are given a long maceration, followed by "mutage" (the addition of a small amount of grape brandy) which halts fermentation and retains some of the grape sugars. The colour is densely purple and opaque, with a tiny, vivid pink rim. The nose is all about dark fruits of both the fresh and dried varieties. Bramble and blackcurrants, cherries and prunes steeped in eau de vie mingle with dark chocolate, forest floor and cedar wood. The palate is a riot of intensely sweet, concentrated fruit, combining tangy black cherries, stewed brambles, cassis and prunes, with a hint of Seville orange marmalade. Notes of molasses and dark chocolate add an intense richness, like liquid Christmas cake. And through it all runs an enticing, refreshing streak of acidity. I guess there are some healthy tannins in there somewhere, but the balance and the richness render them almost unnoticeable. This wine is so delicious and so more-ish that it is hard to fault. And although it is so lovely now, it will surely age and evolve beautifully for at least a decade, perhaps a lot longer. Vintage Maury is one of the world's best and most underrated sweet red wine styles - and this is a truly exceptional example. £15.25 

More wines from Roussillon tomorrow.........

         

Some new wines - including the best Cabernet Franc I've ever tasted

Once again, I've been so busy with other stuff over the last couple of weeks that blogging has taken a back seat. Nevertheless, I've been tasting and writing-up my notes on more than 20 new wines, from 4 different growers in Languedoc and Roussillon. These will be followed closely by yet more new wines, from Jurancon and Madiran within the next week or two, so I've still got plenty to go at. I also have to prepare for presentations to 5 different wine groups in as many weeks, plus a few other non-wine things going on at the moment, so it really is all go. That said, I now have all of these new wines to tell you about, especially since I have spent so much time over the last few days transcribing hand-written scribbles into cohesive tasting notes. It goes without saying that I love tasting/drinking the wines, but the rest is a right royal pain in the bum! Anyway, here's the first batch, including an utterly brilliant Cabernet Franc. All are now available to purchase online, should you like the sound of them...........

Chateau Rives-Blanques Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc 2012 IGP Haute Vallée de l'Aude

A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Chenin Blanc, showing a delightfully pale, watery gold colour. The nose is almost reminiscent of Sauvignon, perhaps even hinting at Riesling, with notes of elderflower, apples, grapes and a rasp of chalky minerality, with tiny hints of basil, orange peel and liquorice. The palate is fresh, tight and zingy, combining zesty lemon, tart apple and soft peach flavours, with herby nuances and bracing, mineral-laden acidity. This is a wonderful example of what Chardonnay (with a touch of Chenin Blanc) is capable of in the higher, cooler reaches of south-west Languedoc. Wonderfully fresh, with genuine elegance. £8.95.

Chateau Rives-Blanques Le Limoux 2010 Limoux

A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac. Delightful aromas of honeysuckle, orchard fruits, orange blossom and lime oil, with a strong sense of minerality, along with subtle hints of flowers, herbs and freshly-cut hay. Quite rich and intensely fruity on entry, with a touch of earthiness and gentle orangey acidity, countered by strong minerality and a delightful pithiness at the end. Barrel fermentation (as is the rule for all AOC Limoux wines) has imparted a gentle florality and elegance, rather than any overt oakiness. As a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac, this is the perfect expression of what the still white wines of Limoux are all about - and is absolutely delicious. £11.95.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Freestyle Blanc 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

50% Grenache Blanc, 21% Marsanne, 21% Roussanne, 8% Maccabeu. The majority of the grapes are sourced from different vineyards around St. Martin de Fenouillèdes in Roussillon's Agly Valley. Each variety is fermented and aged in 1 and 2 year-old barrels for 9 months, before being blended and aged for a further 3 months in vat. The colour is a limpid pale gold, with orange glints. The nose offers notes of honeysuckle, quince, pink grapefruit and mandarin, whilst the palate is beautifully rounded, with floral and fruity notes on the entry, followed by a gentle hit of white pepper and spice and a mouthwatering rasp of lemony, green apple acidity. There is even a suggestion of grape and wood tannin, which helps to fill out the wine and give a real sense of seriousness. Subtle background notes of spice and ripe peach add to the complexity and carry on to a lingering, tangy, spicy yet cool finish. It is wonderfully balanced and an absolute pleasure to drink now, or to cellar for 3 to 5 years. A really fabulous wine - and brilliant value for money at £12.50.

Domaine Gayda Syrah 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

From limestone in La Liviniere and sandstone on the Gayda estate. 10% is aged in 1, 2 and 3 year-old barrels, the remainder in stainless steel. A nose of bramble, blackcurrant, raspberry, violets and fresh bread, with hints of tobacco, allspice, citrus-infused pot-pourri and iodine adding more complexity. This is a lot of wine for the money. Spicy, tangy redcurrant and cranberry flavours, with supple tannins and citrussy acidity. There are some very subtle savoury notes, but more in the way of lapsang tea, herbs and tar, with a nice hit of sweet damson giving a touch of richness to an otherwise tangy, sprightly wine, very much in the northern Rhône style. A really lovely wine, to drink now or keep for a year or three. £9.25.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Freestyle Rouge 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

62% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 9% Carignan, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cinsault. The grapes are sourced from a variety of vineyards in Roussillon, Minervois/La Livinière and Gayda's own estate in Malepère. Fermented in stainless steel, then aged for 9 months in a variety of oak barrels. Deep but translucent purple with a narrow rim. This is so fragrant and reeks of rich, dark, bramble and raspberry Syrah fruit, with subtle fruitcake aromas, courtesy of the Grenache and some high-toned red fruit and citrus nuances. Further notes of fresh bread, herbs and spices and polished wood make for a complex and compelling nose. The palate is beautifully balanced and gloriously fruity, shot through with flavours of bramble, damson and spiced oranges, with firm but ripe tannins and cracking acidity, all beautifully extracted in a medium-rich wine, with a spicy, sweet-sour finish. Like its white counterpart, this has generosity and charm in equal measure. Really top-notch winemaking, and once again brilliant value for money at £12.50.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Cabernet Franc 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

From Gayda's own Cabernet Franc vines surrounding the property, planted in 2004 and now with full organic certification. Goodness me - Cabernet Franc never smelled or tasted so good! This has quite the most intoxicating aromas, including (though by no means limited to) blackcurrant, plum, bramble, raspberry, spiced orange and even a hint of strawberry. And those are just the fruity bits, for it also manages to cram in exotic spices, tobacco, iodine, freshly-baked brioche and beautifully integrated (and really quite subtle) oak. For someone like me, who has struggled to love Cabernet Franc, this really is a bit of a revelation. Apart from the complete absence of any sort of vegetal or green/red capsicum notes, it has plenty of genuine Cab Franc character, with fabulous acidity and plenty of tannic grip. It manages to be at the same time generous and rich, yet beautifully balanced, with sweet black and red fruits and savoury/herby elements combining seamlessly with the tannins and acidity, in a wine which is pretty much impossible to fault. At just 18 months of age (at the time of writing) it is already the most delicious Cabernet Franc I have ever drank. And yet, my instincts tell me that it also has the structure to age and evolve gracefully for a good few years to come. It is worth pointing out that the vines were planted on the Gayda estate as recently as 2004, so it may be many years before they really get into their stride. Heresy, I know, but just as I believe that Cabernet Sauvignon does better things in warmer climes than Bordeaux, so the best Cabernet Franc wines will eventually come from the cooler slopes in warm areas such as Languedoc (in this case, the Côtes de Malepère, near Limoux). Vincent Chansault, you are a winemaking genius! A stunning wine. £14.95.

There's plenty more where these came from. More tomorrow.........

                   

A glorious dry Jurançon

Well, I was supposed to be publishing my notes on a rather wonderful tasting of no less than 19 wines from Domaine Tempier this evening, but that will have to wait until tomorrow, for events have been rather overtaken by a hastily compiled note on the dregs of a rather wonderful white wine........

Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvede Préciouse 2007 Jurançon

I opened and decanted this on Tuesday evening, just before taking it to our monthly wine and food gathering at a local restaurant. And it showed very nicely..... but not as nicely as it is doing now, a full 2 days after the event. It really has come to life in a most glorious way, showing all of that wonderful Jurançon terrroir that I know and love. At the time (i.e. 2 days ago) someone opined that perhaps it has lost some of its youthful exhuberance and may already be past its peak. But I suggested that, with a stucture like this, it may be a wine that would benefit from more ageing and evolve in a rather nice way. And the fact that it is showing so beautifully, a full 2 days after opening, would seem to back up my theory.

It is almost like a steely dry version of the sweet Grappe d'Or from the same grower - a serious wine, with intense lime oil, toffee apple, raisin and slate aromas, mingled with hints of vanilla, clove, root ginger, star anise and freshly-baked bread. The palate offers the hallmark rich, almost painfully intense Jurançon flavours of lemon, lime and apple, with considerable depth and minerality. There's even a touch of peachy/apricotty richness to it, which gives it a roundness and texture that is rare in such an essentially dry wine, making for a flavour profile that is simply crammed with complexity. And oh, that wonderful, searing lime and mineral acidity - it really does take you by the scruff of the neck and shakes some life into you! It is such a fabulous, thrilling wine, full of restrained power, breeding and sheer joie de vivre! In fact, I am prepared to be bold and suggest that it will evolve nicely for several more years........ if you have any, which unfortunately I don't, because this was my last bottle. In fact, neither do I have any 2008, 2009 or 2010 left, which is a shame, because all have been of a similar quality (and similarly ageworthy). The good news is that I have the 2011 arriving within the next 2 or 3 weeks (projected price around £12.95). So I'd better make sure I tuck some away for a few years!

          

A tasty little number from Austria

Here's a delightfully fresh, zingy little wine I picked up from a local bin-end supplier just recently, but have only just got round to adding it to the website......

Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Trocken 2010 Niederösterreich

Labelled as simply Niederösterreich (literally "lower Austria"), this is grown in the vineyards of Markus Huber, one of the top growers in the quality Traisenthal region, west of Vienna. Aromas of lemon/lime oil and orange blossom, with hints of white pepper, basil and wet slate. Beautifully poised and focused, light to medium-rich in texture and packed full of citrus and tree fruit flavours and again just a hint of pepper and spice. There's a delightful pithy quality, which stops well short of bitterness and there is perhaps just a gram or two of residual sugar and even a touch of grapiness - definitely dry, but not steely-dry, with loads of minerality and lovely acid/fruit balance. Really mouth-watering stuff, perfect for enjoying on the patio this coming spring/summer - if we get one, that is! 12.0% abv. Available now via the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines website for the giveaway price of £7.50, but only a handful of cases available.

    

             

In search of Burgundy value

It goes without saying that a good proportion of the wines we drink Chez Stolarski are from southern France. But life would be rather boring if that was all we ever drank. It amazes me how some people stick doggedly to their chosen favourite region, seemingly oblivious to the fact that there is so much variety to be had out there in the wonderful world of wine. OK, so in my humble opinion, southern France remains one of the best sources of fine wines that don't cost the earth. Which is not something you can say about Burgundy - so many fabulous wines, most of which are made in tiny quantities, from a total area a fraction of the size (in both geographical and viticultural terms) of Languedoc-Roussillon. And with the supply/demand gap ever widening, Burgundy prices continue to rise on an almost mind-boggling scale. Never mind the Grand and 1er Cru wines - when one has to pay more for a decent (and in some cases average) Village Burgundy than, say, Domaine de Trévallon (in my opinion, one of the world's great wines), one has to draw the line.

Not that it is yet impossible to find the occasional bargain. With the right sources (auctions, for instance) and friends with the right knowledge, there are still a few gems to be had at the lower end. It isn't necessarily about the absolute "perceived" quality (i.e. cost), but simply about seeking out and enjoying bloody good wines. By which I mean one doesn't necessarily need to scale the pyramid in order to appreciate the finer points of Burgundy. And being able to appreciate them at both ends (and all points in-between) of their development is such a treat, especially when they are as good as this pair of beauties.

Domaine Guillot-Broux Macon-Cruzille Beaumont 1996

This cost me all of £7 per bottle, from an auction. And for all its cheapness, perceived (over)-maturity and lowly denomination, this is a wine which - with each successive bottle - has given TLD and I a great deal of drinking pleasure over the last few years. My only worry is that it may be our last bottle...... unless I have a few odd bottles still buried at the bottom of a pile of inaccessible boxes at my wine store. I hope I do, for this little artefact is still clinging on to life nicely, and certainly isn't going to fall off its perch too quickly. Much as a good Moulin-a-Vent or Morgon can do, a Gamay from the nearby Macon is more than capable of relatively long ageing and, as it does so, taking on more than a hint of "Pinosity" in its efforts to mimic the aromatic and flavour profile of the more esteemed red wines of the Côte d'Or. And this is an excellent example, possessed of an earthy, forest floor and wild strawberry bouquet, with hints of tobacco and spice, whilst the palate is all about tertiary red fruit and citrus flavours, with the merest hint of fruity sweetness offset by tremendously mouth-watering acidity and a touch of rustic tannin. OK, so it isn't really Burgundy (some Burgundy snobs wouldn't touch this sort of stuff with a bargepole) but I have had many a young, acidic, fruit-frugal wine from the Côte d'Or that will never be a match for this. And perhaps it is a sign of my age that I get all dewy-eyed about a wine that was made when I was in my mid-30's and still (much like me!) has much pleasure to offer. ;-) Oh, and it went very nicely with a pork shoulder joint, slowly roasted on a bed of onions and blackberries (which I then used to make a rich sauce, with the addition of some home-made turkey and chicken stock) and some red cabbage and haricot beans.

Domaine Michel Gros Bourgogne Haute Côtes de Nuits 2005

This wine, on the other hand, is a mere youngster at less than 8 years of age and shows all of the vibrant fruit and relative chunkiness of an immature (or at best semi-mature) red Burgundy. Having said that, it has evolved nicely since my previous bottle, which we drank this time last year. At £16, it is a relative bargain (indeed, I also have some of the 2008, which was even more of a bargain at 10 Euros from the cellar door). And although from a relatively lowly denomination, it is from an undoubtedly excellent grower and vintage - a combination which almost always pays rich dividends. It is certainly a delicious wine, which hints at its Nuits Saint Georges origins, whilst actually avoiding the toughness and rusticity I occasionally find in some of that appellation's more elevated wines. The nose is evocative of mixed curry spices, fine tobacco and polished old wood, mingled beautifully with ripe red cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry and even a hint of dried orange peel - everything that is so sexy about good red Burgundy. The palate perhaps lacks the structure and complexity of the wines from the lower (and much more expensive) slopes of the Village and 1er Cru wines, but certainly doesn't lack for charm. A rasp of cherry and raspberry fruit and once again a hint of dried orange makes for a delightfully tangy, ever-so-slightly spicy and peppery wine, with relatively fine tannins and plenty of juicy acidity. All-in-all, it is high-toned and tangy, but with plenty of depth and enjoyment. And whilst it still feels quite primary and will undoubtedly benefit from another 5 or more years in bottle, it is eminently drinkable now. And it went very nicely with a medium rare rump steak with mushrooms and french fries. Yum!