Some new wines - including the best Cabernet Franc I've ever tasted

Once again, I've been so busy with other stuff over the last couple of weeks that blogging has taken a back seat. Nevertheless, I've been tasting and writing-up my notes on more than 20 new wines, from 4 different growers in Languedoc and Roussillon. These will be followed closely by yet more new wines, from Jurancon and Madiran within the next week or two, so I've still got plenty to go at. I also have to prepare for presentations to 5 different wine groups in as many weeks, plus a few other non-wine things going on at the moment, so it really is all go. That said, I now have all of these new wines to tell you about, especially since I have spent so much time over the last few days transcribing hand-written scribbles into cohesive tasting notes. It goes without saying that I love tasting/drinking the wines, but the rest is a right royal pain in the bum! Anyway, here's the first batch, including an utterly brilliant Cabernet Franc. All are now available to purchase online, should you like the sound of them...........

Chateau Rives-Blanques Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc 2012 IGP Haute Vallée de l'Aude

A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Chenin Blanc, showing a delightfully pale, watery gold colour. The nose is almost reminiscent of Sauvignon, perhaps even hinting at Riesling, with notes of elderflower, apples, grapes and a rasp of chalky minerality, with tiny hints of basil, orange peel and liquorice. The palate is fresh, tight and zingy, combining zesty lemon, tart apple and soft peach flavours, with herby nuances and bracing, mineral-laden acidity. This is a wonderful example of what Chardonnay (with a touch of Chenin Blanc) is capable of in the higher, cooler reaches of south-west Languedoc. Wonderfully fresh, with genuine elegance. £8.95.

Chateau Rives-Blanques Le Limoux 2010 Limoux

A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac. Delightful aromas of honeysuckle, orchard fruits, orange blossom and lime oil, with a strong sense of minerality, along with subtle hints of flowers, herbs and freshly-cut hay. Quite rich and intensely fruity on entry, with a touch of earthiness and gentle orangey acidity, countered by strong minerality and a delightful pithiness at the end. Barrel fermentation (as is the rule for all AOC Limoux wines) has imparted a gentle florality and elegance, rather than any overt oakiness. As a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac, this is the perfect expression of what the still white wines of Limoux are all about - and is absolutely delicious. £11.95.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Freestyle Blanc 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

50% Grenache Blanc, 21% Marsanne, 21% Roussanne, 8% Maccabeu. The majority of the grapes are sourced from different vineyards around St. Martin de Fenouillèdes in Roussillon's Agly Valley. Each variety is fermented and aged in 1 and 2 year-old barrels for 9 months, before being blended and aged for a further 3 months in vat. The colour is a limpid pale gold, with orange glints. The nose offers notes of honeysuckle, quince, pink grapefruit and mandarin, whilst the palate is beautifully rounded, with floral and fruity notes on the entry, followed by a gentle hit of white pepper and spice and a mouthwatering rasp of lemony, green apple acidity. There is even a suggestion of grape and wood tannin, which helps to fill out the wine and give a real sense of seriousness. Subtle background notes of spice and ripe peach add to the complexity and carry on to a lingering, tangy, spicy yet cool finish. It is wonderfully balanced and an absolute pleasure to drink now, or to cellar for 3 to 5 years. A really fabulous wine - and brilliant value for money at £12.50.

Domaine Gayda Syrah 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

From limestone in La Liviniere and sandstone on the Gayda estate. 10% is aged in 1, 2 and 3 year-old barrels, the remainder in stainless steel. A nose of bramble, blackcurrant, raspberry, violets and fresh bread, with hints of tobacco, allspice, citrus-infused pot-pourri and iodine adding more complexity. This is a lot of wine for the money. Spicy, tangy redcurrant and cranberry flavours, with supple tannins and citrussy acidity. There are some very subtle savoury notes, but more in the way of lapsang tea, herbs and tar, with a nice hit of sweet damson giving a touch of richness to an otherwise tangy, sprightly wine, very much in the northern Rhône style. A really lovely wine, to drink now or keep for a year or three. £9.25.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Freestyle Rouge 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

62% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 9% Carignan, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cinsault. The grapes are sourced from a variety of vineyards in Roussillon, Minervois/La Livinière and Gayda's own estate in Malepère. Fermented in stainless steel, then aged for 9 months in a variety of oak barrels. Deep but translucent purple with a narrow rim. This is so fragrant and reeks of rich, dark, bramble and raspberry Syrah fruit, with subtle fruitcake aromas, courtesy of the Grenache and some high-toned red fruit and citrus nuances. Further notes of fresh bread, herbs and spices and polished wood make for a complex and compelling nose. The palate is beautifully balanced and gloriously fruity, shot through with flavours of bramble, damson and spiced oranges, with firm but ripe tannins and cracking acidity, all beautifully extracted in a medium-rich wine, with a spicy, sweet-sour finish. Like its white counterpart, this has generosity and charm in equal measure. Really top-notch winemaking, and once again brilliant value for money at £12.50.

Domaine Gayda Figure Libre Cabernet Franc 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc

From Gayda's own Cabernet Franc vines surrounding the property, planted in 2004 and now with full organic certification. Goodness me - Cabernet Franc never smelled or tasted so good! This has quite the most intoxicating aromas, including (though by no means limited to) blackcurrant, plum, bramble, raspberry, spiced orange and even a hint of strawberry. And those are just the fruity bits, for it also manages to cram in exotic spices, tobacco, iodine, freshly-baked brioche and beautifully integrated (and really quite subtle) oak. For someone like me, who has struggled to love Cabernet Franc, this really is a bit of a revelation. Apart from the complete absence of any sort of vegetal or green/red capsicum notes, it has plenty of genuine Cab Franc character, with fabulous acidity and plenty of tannic grip. It manages to be at the same time generous and rich, yet beautifully balanced, with sweet black and red fruits and savoury/herby elements combining seamlessly with the tannins and acidity, in a wine which is pretty much impossible to fault. At just 18 months of age (at the time of writing) it is already the most delicious Cabernet Franc I have ever drank. And yet, my instincts tell me that it also has the structure to age and evolve gracefully for a good few years to come. It is worth pointing out that the vines were planted on the Gayda estate as recently as 2004, so it may be many years before they really get into their stride. Heresy, I know, but just as I believe that Cabernet Sauvignon does better things in warmer climes than Bordeaux, so the best Cabernet Franc wines will eventually come from the cooler slopes in warm areas such as Languedoc (in this case, the Côtes de Malepère, near Limoux). Vincent Chansault, you are a winemaking genius! A stunning wine. £14.95.

There's plenty more where these came from. More tomorrow.........

                   

Vinisud Part 1 - Domaine Gayda

Our first port of call at Vinisud was the Sud de France tasting area, which was designed to showcase 500 or so of the best wines of the region. There were some really excellent wines here (and so many that it paid to be selective) but what struck me was how they were presented. Apart from a few "icon" wines which were lined-up in mini wine fridges, the majority of bottles were housed in plastic wine "coolers"..... with nothing to actually keep them cool under the bright lighting. The result was that they were all pretty tepid - hardly ideal, even for the reds, but the whites had absolutely no chance of showing their best. Thankfully, we tasted them in the morning, whilst most were at least relatively fresh, but I can imagine many would have suffered rather badly by the end of the day. Given that Sud de France had produced a comprehensive 500-page "booklet" (presumably at great expense, but available free to every visitor to the stand) with a page devoted to each wine, it seemed a very poor way to showcase the region's best wines.

After that, we made our way to the Domaine Gayda stand. TLD and I had a most enjoyable visit to the Gayda estate in June last year, and I have been waiting for the opportunity to add some of their wines to the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines list ever since. So Vinisud offered the ideal opportunity meet up again with winemaker Vincent Chansault (pictured left) and co-owner Tim Ford - and, of course, to taste the latest vintages. We were treated to an extensive and very informative tasting of the whole range and I can honestly say there was not one single "average" wine - in fact, I have rarely, if ever, tasted a range of wines from a single producer of such a consistently high standard. So much so that it was difficult to decide which ones to leave out, when placing my order. Once my decision was made, though, I got back in touch immediately, and through a combination of great work from Gayda and my transport company, my wonderful new Domaine Gayda wines arrived in stock last week - and I'm very excited! Here are my tasting notes, some of which are based on the notes I took at Vinisud, others from sitting down with a bottle at home. The wines with links are the ones we now have in stock, and I can honestly say they collectively provide the best quality-price ratio on our list.

T'Air d'Oc Sauvignon Blanc 2011
The grapes are grown on limestone soils in the Minervois. A riot of elderflower, pea pod and zesty aromas and flavours, this is a classy Sauvignon for the money. Intensely fruity and generous, with excellent acidity and structure, this puts many a £10-plus New Zealand Sauvignon to shame, though it is one of the entry-level wines. In most circumstances, I would list it without hesitation, but instead I went for the following couple of wines.....

Flying Solo White 2011

85% Grenache Blanc and 15% Viognier. Fresh, intensely floral, yet very fruity - apple blossom and lemon aromas give way to peach, orange and all manner of tropical fruit nuances, leading to an intense grapiness on the palate. This really is packed with flavour, combining a touch of richness with gorgeous acidity and a subtle herbiness. A beautifully made wine of real elegance - and brilliant value for money. £7.75

Sauvignon Blanc 2010

From grapes grown locally in Brugairolles et Malviès, fermented in stainless steel and aged for several months on its lees before bottling. A very structured wine, bordering on serious, with lime/lemon and mineral aromas and subtle hints of pea pod and elderflower. Vibrant and full of tangy fruits, like a halfway house between Sancerre and New Zealand (though perhaps closer to the former, rather than the latter). This is a beautifully crafted wine. £8.75

Viognier 2011

The grapes for this wine are sourced from no less than 4 different areas - limestone in Limoux and La Liviniere, slate in Roussillon and basalt in Pézenas. 10% of the blend is fermented and aged for 6 months on its lees in new oak barrels, the remainder in stainless steel.The nose begins a touch muted, but opens out after a while, whilst the palate is a riot of soft citrus and peach, with a nice hint of bitterness on the finish. Another delicious wine. £8.75

Chardonnay 2011

The grapes are grown on limestone in Minervois and sandstone in nearby Malpere. 25% is fermented and aged for 6 months on its lees in new oak barrels, the remainder in stainless steel. A nose of cut lemon and clove, with subtle herby/herbaceous notes. Although the palate shows plenty of stoney minerality, it is relatively rich and full of soft citrus and tree fruits, with a very long, spicy finish. A good ringer for a more than decent Maconnais Chardonnay. £8.75

Figure Libre Freestyle White 2009

A blend of 43% Grenache Blanc, 20% Maccabeu, 20% Marsanne, 14% Chenin Blanc, 3% Roussanne. The majority of the grapes are sourced from different vineyards around St. Martin de Fenouillet in Roussillon's Agly Valley, apart from the Chenin, which is grown on the Gayda estate in Brugairolles. Each variety is fermented and aged in 1 and 2 year-old barrels for 9 months, before being blended and aged for a further 3 months in vat. This is a complex wine, with really quite subtle oak, which allows the fruit to shine. Aromas and flavours of lemon, apple, honeysuckle and spice, quite full-bodied and rich, with a touch of savoury/saline. Classy wine. £11.95

Figure Libre Maccabeu 2010
Aged for 10 months in a selection of new and used iak barrels, this is 100% Maccabeu (a.k.a Vieura) from the Fenouilledes in the Agly Valley of Roussillon. Citrus/grapefruit zest aromas and flavours, with some attractive apple pie and raisin notes, and a strong mineral streak. This is a good wine, but when push came to shove, I preferred the extra richness and complexity of the Freestyle.

T'Air d'Oc Syrah 2011
A beautiful deep purple colour, with crystallised red and black fruit aromas which burst out if the glass. A core of rich bramble and cherry fruit, complemented by soft, ripe tannins and lovely acidity. A really vibrant wine. As with it's T'Air d'Oc Sauvignon counterpart, this would normally be a shoe-in for my list, but the following 3 wines had all the bases covered....

Flying Solo Red 2011

70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Delightfully fragrant aromas of red and black summer fruits, freshly-baked bread, herbs and spices. The palate is full of summer fruit and orange flavours, with juicy acidity and soft, ripe tannins. Medium weight and very easy to drink, rather like a good Beaujolais, but with deeper fruit flavours. A really delicious, fruity wine - and a great all-rounder. £7.75

Syrah 2010
From vineyards based on limestone soil in La Liviniere and sandstone on the Gayda estate. 10% is aged in 1, 2 and 3 year-old barrels, the remainder in stainless steel. Stating the obvious, I know, but this simply reeks of Syrah - perfumed, floral, peppery and full of red and black fruits. The palate is medium-rich, with a combination of bramble, cherry and cassis fruit, mouth-watering acidity and strong minerality. With shades of cool-climate Languedoc or even northern Rhone Syrah, this is a substantial wine for the money, which is already delicious, but has the capacity to age and evolve for a good 3 or 4 years. An absolute bargain at £8.95.

Grenache 2011

From limestone in La Liviniere and schiste in Maury, the grapes are cold-soaked for a week, before a cool (20c) fermentation. The grapes are pressed before the fermentation has finished, giving a rounded wine with no hard edges. An abundance of raspberry, soft citrus and tar on the nose and in the mouth, with excellent acidity and velvety tannins. A far from simple wine, this could evolve further, but is already delicious to drink. £8.75

Figure Libre Freestyle Red 2010

60% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 9% Mourvedre, 6% Carignan and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from a variety of vineyards in Roussillon, Minervois/La Liviniere and Gayda's own estate vines. Fermented in stainless steel, then aged for 9 months in a variety of oak barrels. This has a reassuringly bright, semi-transluscent purple core, leading to a wide raspberry rim. This wine offers a gloriously complex array of aromas and flavours - black cherry, bramble, raspberry and mandarin fruit, with additional notes of tar, incense, polished wood and forest floor. With time (even a day or two later), those aromas and flavours meld together beautifully, combining all manner of red, black and citrus fruits, garrigue herbs, an increasingly intense combination of spice/incense/wood and the merest hint of eau de vie. And yet, with so much going on, it remains beautifully subtle and harmonious - a nigh-on perfect marriage of concentrated, elegant fruit,  ripe tannins, ample acidity and great persistence. I'm often banging on about how so many Languedoc wines are so utterly drinkable in their youth, yet possess all of the qualities necessary for long ageing, and this is a wonderful example - you can drink it now, or age it for another 5 to 10 years. Either way, it is a generous, hugely complex and very lovely wine, at an almost laughable price of £11.95.

Figure Libre Cabernet Franc 2010

From Gayda's own Cabernet Franc vines surrounding the property, planted in 2004 and in the 3rd year of conversion to official Organic certification. Aged for 15 months in 1 year-old oak barrels, with regular batonnage and racking/bottling according to the phases of the moon. A classic Cabernet Franc nose of dark fruits, pepper, cedar/pencil, just a hint of red capsicum and a touch of toasty oak. A delicious core of ripe red and black fruits (cherry, cassis, bramble) with rich, ripe, chocolatey tannins. Savoury, spicy, complex and long, with an excellent capacity for ageing. I have never been a great fan of Cabernet Franc (too often green, tannic, charmless monsters) but I actually love this! A real cracker. £14.95

Chemin de Moscou 2009

The "tech-spec" for this wine fully illustrates the care and attention to detail which goes into making it. 82% Syrah, 14% Grenache and 4% Cinsault, sourced from no less than 6 different areas of Languedoc and Roussillon. Aged for a total of 21 months in French oak: The Syrah in new oak for 9 months, the Grenache and Cinsault in 2 and 3 year-old oak for 9 months, followed by blending of the best barrels of each variety and a further 12 months maturation of the final blend in the same barrels. The nose is a touch reductive to begin with, but lurking beneath is a wine of real class. After a while, it reveals complex notes of flowers, incense, bread, beef, raspberry and bramble. The palate is young, tight and gently tannic, but already showing layers of complexity, with immense (but definitely not soupy) concentration and length of flavour. This is a magnificent wine, which is already quite approachable, but has a full 10 years of evolution ahead of it. Another Languedoc classic. £19.99

      
 

A visit to Domaine Gayda

On the same day as our visit to Chateau Rives-Blanques in Limoux, which I reported on in June, we also visited Domaine Gayda in nearby Brougairolles. Gayda is a truly international effort, and whilst both the winery and the winemaking (and indeed viticultural) techniques employed have something of the New World about them, the resulting wines speak very much of their Languedoc and Roussillon roots.

South African Anthony Record and Englishman Tim Ford joined forces with French winemaker Vincent Chansault to form Domaine Gayda in 2003. At just 30 years of age, Vincent has packed a lot of experience into his career, working in the Loire Valley, Rhone and Languedoc, as well as having worked for a number of years in South Africa, notably under the tutelage of Marc Kent, winemaker at the famous Boekenhoutskloof winery, and now a non-executive Director at Gayda. After building a brand new (and, I must say, very impressive) new winery, the estate produced its first vintage in 2004. At the same time, they set about planting vineyards on the surrounding land which had, until then, been used for the raising of various other crops. The winery is actually situated within the Cotes de Malepere region, although they do not use this (or any other) AOC for their wines. At 7 years of age, those vines (Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc) are now in full production, but a large proportion of the grapes are still sourced from various different parts of Languedoc and Roussillon. 

Bringing in grapes from far and wide is an interesting concept, and one which many new world wine growers have practiced for a long time. But it is a relatively new concept to southern France, although some of the larger, more mass-market-oriented concerns such as Skalli and Gerard Bertrand have been doing it for a number of years. But Gayda's approach is very focused, and they source grapes from some of the top growers in Roussillon, with whom they have built firm - though strictly non-contracted - relationships. In addition, Gayda own some parcels of vines on the Petit Causse, in the hills above La Liviniere in Languedoc.

Of course, the blending of grapes from these different areas ensures that Gayda's wines cannot qualify for any particular AOC, and are thus labelled under the catch-all Pays d'Oc denomination. But if the wines are this good, who cares if they lack a perceived single regional identity? I say "perceived", because the wines are far from international, showing a strong Languedoc/Roussillon character - and if I tasted them completely blind, I would most likely be there in a flash, especially with the ones made from indigenous grape varieties.

Before we began, we were treated to a 3-course lunch with Vincent, in the delightful restuarant at Gayda, overlooking the vines and the plot that will soon be planted with Olive trees (another Gayda project). The day was warm but overcast, so the view of the nearby Pyrenées was pretty much obscured, but the views from the restaurant were still a delight, as was the food and the Gayda wines which accompanied it.

The restaurant at Domaine Gayda offers good food and (normally) fine views of the Pyrenées

After lunch, Vincent took us on a tour of the vineyards and the winery..........

Winemaker Vincent Chansault in the vineyard

Inspecting the grapes - in mid-June, still small and green, but very healthy

The winery is modern and hi-tech, with plenty of stainless steel.........

......... and approximately 400 top-quality oak barrels, each one on rollers,

which enables two people to turn every single one in around an hour

Then it was to the tasting room, to taste through (most of) the range of wines

Viognier 2010

Very floral and aromatic, with notes of honeysuckle and citrus. Fresh on the palate, with ripe tree fruits. Nicely balanced.

Sauvignon 2010

At veraison (the beginning of the fruit ripening process) the vines are largely de-leafed on the north-facing side, to aid development of the fruit, but without the burning effect of the sun. The wine spends a month on its lees after fermentation. It is herbaceous and fruity, with a nose of elderflower, freshly-cut grass, lemon and quince. The flavours are delicate - definitely more Sancerre than Marlborough. I'm not a huge fan of Sauvignon, but I like this.

Chardonnay 2010

25% of this wine spends some time in barrel, but the effect is very subtle. Again quite herbaceous and even herby, but very fresh in the mouth, with notes of lemon and mineral. Quite Chablis-like in structure.

Figure Libre Freestyle 2009

A blend of 60% Grenache Blanc, plus 15% Macabeu, 15% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne. A yeasty/leesy, smoky, savoury nose, with hints of tropical fruit and a lick of oak. The leesy element shows on the palate too, with flavours of citrus and peach and a delicate herbiness. A hint of butter gives richness, whilst crisp acidity and a mineral streak add balance and structure. There's a touch of oak influence, but it is really well-judged and there's a nice hit of orange peel on the long finish. A lovely wine for now or for medium term ageing.

Figure Libre Macabeu 2009

Not much of a note here - I guess I must have been talking too much! Aromas of minerals, smoke and a certain nuttiness. Some oak on the palate, quite rich, with a touch of salinity and zesty flavours. Promising, but I think I marginally prefer the Freestyle.

Syrah 2009

A creamy nose reminiscent of vanilla ice cream melted over strawberries and raspberries. Hints of blueberries and tar. Juicy redcurrant, plum and bramble fruits in the mouth, with firm but fine tannins and lots of acidity. Nice wine.

Grenache 2009

Again, my note for this is barely non-existent...... Very ripe, with plums, cream and tar.

Figure Libre Freestyle 2009

A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon. Serious oak, smoky and complex, with big fruit aromas. Amazingly soft and rounded on the palate, with rich, chocolatey tannins, sweet blackcurrant and plum fruit and medium acidity. It is a big wine, built to last, and probably needs 5 years to really come into its own. Very promising.

Cabernet Franc 2009

From a 1.9 hectare plot, planted on the Gayda estate in 2004. A nose of tobacco, cedar and spice, with black fruits and a hint of white peach. Hints of savoury, and even a touch of greenness, which adds a refreshing streak. There's real depth in this wine. The tannins are quite firm at the moment, but very ripe, peppery and spicy. A very promising wine, which needs 3 to 5 years to really sing.

Selection Chenin Vin de Table de France

From a 1.2 hectare parcel of vines planted on the Gayda estate in 2004. For the technically-minded, here are some details from the Gayda website; "Individual berries or bunches affected by Noble Rot are harvested on four separate pickings – Harvested at 430g/L of sugar (or 23% potential alcohol) – Gentle pressing for 10 hours to slowly release the juice – Cold settling – Barrel fermented in one year old oak – Slow fermentation for 6 months due to the high sugar levels and stops naturally at 12.5% alcohol – Racked and matured in barrel on the lees for 6 months – Tangential filtration prior to bottling." Those four separates pickings or "tries" were conducted over a 5-week period between early October and mid-November 2008. Delightful aromas of honey, nuts and orange marmalade. The palate displays a lovely combination of ripe apricot, tangerine, peach and quince, with a nice level of oak and excellent acidity. It manages to be at the same time honeyed, savoury and fruity. A really yummy wine, and although not cheap, I bought a bottle to bring back to the UK for my own future enjoyment. 

As well as the wines I tasted during my visit, I have previously written about a trio of wines, tasted during the early part of this year. For completeness, here are my (slightly truncated!) notes on those wines;

Cuvée Occitane Blanc 2008

A blend of 48% Grenache Blanc, 28% Marsanne, 16% Roussanne and 8% Viognier. As I write, the bottle has actually been open for 2 days, and the wine seems all the better for it. When first opened, it had a delightful floral aroma, with notes of spring blossom and honeysuckle, but those aromas carried through to the palate in a way that was a bit too intense for my personal liking (although TLD loved it). However, 2 days later and it is really singing. There's still a hint of flowers, but also some nicely-integrated (and quite subtle, quite smoky) oak, and hints of peach and lemon zest, but with plenty of secondary/non fruity, though beautifully "winey" notes. The palate has also really settled into its stride, with gentle peach and lemon fruit flavours, a hint of earthiness and again, beautifully integrated oak. It also offers a delightfully tangy streak of stoney minerality, making for a wine which actually possesses a good deal of complexity - it just takes a day or two in the fridge (or a year or two more in bottle, perhaps) to really show its class. As with many of Languedoc's (or in this case Roussillon's) classier oak-matured whites, this isn't too far removed from the old-style Riojas I enjoy so much. All-in-all, this is a really promising wine, which is lovely to drink now, but which may well turn into something even more interesting with 3 to 5 years more in bottle. It really is very yummy indeed.

 

Viognier 2009

Aged on its lees for 6 months before bottling. There's a faint whiff of garrigue herbs on the nose, which also manifests on the palate, but just enough to add a little complexity and interest to a wine that definitely majors on fruit, with a rather attractive combination of peaches and apricot, orange blossom and other floral notes. It's a really smooth, rather attractive expression of Viognier, with soft apricot and peach flavours countered by just the right amount of zesty citrus fruit and even a hint of stony minerality. The 6 months this wine has spent sitting on its fine, yeasty lees seems to have polished away any rough edges.  In fact, this is another wine from Domaine Gayda which calls on new world practices and techniques, whilst very definitely speaking loud and proud of it's Languedoc (and Roussillon) origins.

 

Chemin de Moscou 2006

68% Syrah, 24% Grenache and 8% Cinsault, with the various constituents being aged in oak barrels ranging from new to 3 vintages old, for a total of 21 months. The nose on this wine offers a veritable array of heady - not to mention, considerably complex - aromas, with dark bramble fruit and something vaguely citrus leading the way, accompanied by notes of meat, leather, sandalwood and allspice. There's also an undeniable touch of brett, but at a level which shouldn't offend the purists, and which is nicely offset by a perceptible whiff of lifted acidity and just the right level of oak. The palate is squeaky-clean and again dominated by brambly fruit, though it certainly doesn't come across as too "sweet" - in fact, there's a sour cherry element which gives the palate plenty of lift, and everything is held together beautifully by a combination of grippy but fine tannin and simply mouth-watering acidity. The finish is gently warming, but very fine and very, very long. Whilst it is already fiendishly drinkable, all of my instincts tell me that this wine will evolve beautifully for at least another 5 years, and should still be holding on nicely by 2020. It certainly isn't cheap, but as the estate's flagship wine, it really does tick all of the boxes - in fact, a Languedoc classic in the making.

Having now had the pleasure of visiting Domaine Gayda and seeing how the grapes are grown and how the wines are made, I have no doubt that this is an estate with a great future. Of course, some of the wines moved me more than others, although none of them were anything less than beautifully-made examples of their kind. And the premium cuvées such as Figure Libre and Chemin de Moscou clearly have the potential to be up there with some of the region's finest wines. I like them a lot, and hope to import a selection of them in the not too distant future.

                   

A couple of white wines enjoyed over the weekend. Plus, plenty of hot air in Saint Gengoux.....

Our recent trip to Burgundy almost seems like a distant memory now, although it is actually only 6 days since we returned. Nevertheless, I still have plenty of notes from the trip to write-up, which I hope to get around to over the next few days - watch this space. Meanwhile, here are my notes on a couple of lovely white wines enjoyed over this (rather glorious) early Spring weekend.

Domaine Gayda Cuvée Occitane Blanc 2008 Vin de Pays d'Oc

This is a blend of 48% Grenache Blanc, 28% Marsanne, 16% Roussanne and 8% Viognier, sourced (as often seems to be the case with this grower) from various different parts of Languedoc and Roussillon. This one is predominantly from the Fennouilledes area of Roussillon, with some of the Marsanne coming from the Minervois sub-region of La Liviniere. It's an interesting concept (and one which Australia has pioneered for a long time) and if the wines are this good, who cares if it lacks a "single" regional identity? As I write, the bottle has actually been open for 2 days, and the wine seems all the better for it. When first opened, it had a delightful floral aroma, with notes of spring blossom and honeysuckle, but those aromas carried through to the palate in a way that was a bit too intense for my personal liking (although TLD loved it). However, 2 days later and it is really singing. There's still a hint of flowers, but also some nicely-integrated (and quite subtle, quite smoky) oak, and hints of peach and lemon zest, but with plenty of secondary/non fruity, though beautifully "winey" notes. The palate has also really settled into its stride, with gentle peach and lemon fruit flavours, a hint of earthiness and again, beautifully integrated oak (older oak, I would imagine). It also offers a delightfully tangy streak of stony minerality, making for a wine which actually possesses a good deal of complexity - it just takes a day or two in the fridge (or a year or two more in bottle, perhaps) to really show its class. As with many of Languedoc's (or in this case Roussillon's) classier oak-matured whites, this isn't too far removed from the old-style Riojas I enjoy so much. All-in-all, this is a really promising wine, which is lovely to drink now, but which may well turn into something even more interesting with 3 to 5 years more in bottle. It really is very yummy indeed, which makes me look forward even more to visiting this estate in a couple of months' time. Meanwhile, you can buy it at Cambridge Wines for £12.69.

Esporao Duas Castas 2010 Alentejo

A blend of Gouveio (a new one on me) and Verdelho, vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks for a short time on the lees. This is less serious than the Branco Reserva 2009 from the same grower that I reviewed in January, but a tasty wine nonetheless. Aromas of apples, lemons and almonds (as suggested on the Cambridge Wines website), with a hint - though not too much - of peardrops, a touch of florality and a subtle herbaceousness - a sort of halfway house between a southern Rhone blend and a Loire Sauvignon. The flavours are also dominated by apples, pears and lemons, with mouth-watering acidity to match, but a touch of depth and richness that lifts it above the merely simple. Although not particularly to my taste, it is another beautifully-made wine, which would be a lovely match for light fish dishes or even mackerel pate with a salad and vinaigrette. £9.99 at Cambridge Wines.

More on the Burgundy trip (and some really lovely wines) over the next couple of days, but for now, here are a couple of photos of a hot air balloon which drifted very low of Saint Gengoux Le Nacional last Sunday evening. My new friend the Reverend Michael Thompson (David Bennett's neighbour in Saint Gengoux) has been asking me to post these since last week! The second photo shows just how low - I hope the occupants made it back to terra firma safely - and I hope you like the photos, Father Michael!

Hot air balloon over Saint Gengoux

                 Hot air balloon just about in Saint Gengoux!

                  

A couple of lovely young Viognier wines - one dry, one sweet

Continuing my recent theme of white wines, here's a couple of lovely 100% Viognier wines we've enjoyed over the past few days, one dry, one sweet - and both lovely!

Domaine Gayda Viognier 2009 IGP Pays d'Oc

100% Viognier, aged on its lees for 6 months before bottling. As with the Chemin de Moscou red I reviewed recently, this wine is a blend of grapes sourced from two distinct Languedoc and Roussillon terroirs - in this case, from limestone soil in Haut Minervois and schitous slopes in the Fenouilledes, so yet another example of new-world thinking, combined with old-world terroir. The colour is a bright, limpid straw/gold, with just a hint of green. On opening, there is a faint whiff of banana, which very quickly dissipates - perhaps just a touch of reduction, as is often the case with screwcapped wines. Once that is out of the way, we are left with a rather attractive combination of peaches and apricot, orange blossom and other floral notes.

At this juncture, I am distracted - nay, overcome - by a strong and rather off-putting odour of cheap Lynx deodorant, wafting down into my dining room from upstairs, accompanied by the incessent din of American Indie/Punk/Thrash/Screaming blaring out of Alex's hi-fi system. Hardly conducive to peaceful contemplation and vinous navel-gazing. Shame I can't close the door, but there are (as usual) too many wine boxes in the way! Never mind - with a bit of luck, he'll be off out with his mates, any minute now.....

Anyway, back to the wine. It's a really smooth, rather attractive expression of Viognier, with soft apricot and peach flavours countered by just the right amount of zesty citrus fruit and even a hint of stony minerality. The 6 months this wine has spent sitting on its fine, yeasty lees seems to have polished away any rough edges and tempered the tendency to pithinesss that can occasionally afflict wines made from this variety. There's a faint whiff of garrigue herbs on the nose, which also manifests on the palate, but just enough to add a little complexity and interest to a wine that definitely majors on fruit. In fact, this is another wine from Domaine Gayda which calls on new world practices and techniques, whilst very definitely speaking loud and proud of it's Languedoc (and Roussillon) origins. A really nice wine, which just happens to provide an excellent match for this evening's Thai chicken curry, and excellent value at £8.99 from Cambridge Wines.

Les Vignes de l'Arque Saveur d'Automne 2009 IGP Pays d'Oc Doux

This is the last of my sample bottles from a grower whose wines used to feature very prominently on the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines list - and will do so again, very soon. Also made from 100% Viognier, grown in a vinous backwater of the Gard, west of the ancient town of Uzes, and aged in oak for around 9 months. Clear, pale straw colour, with orange glints. A delightfully intense nose, with complex aromas including apricot, orange, fresh grapes, honey and root ginger, with the perfume heightened even more by a strong floral/rose element, akin to turkish delight. The barrel ageing has imbued the wine with a subtle note of oak vanillin. The flavours are moelleux, rather than full-on sweet, with the inherent richness countered by really good acidity and a touch of grape tannin. There is a core of rich, ripe, densely concentrated fruit and a touch of spicy, alcoholic warmth, whilst the finish offers a final flourish of tropical fruit and candied citrus. The oak is beautifully judged and integrates seamlessly with the fruit, making for a wine of considerable complexity. In fact, a little goes a long way, but fortunately this wine is perfectly capable of sitting in the fridge for a good many days after opening, during which it just gets better and better. Another lovely Languedoc sticky.
       

An unexpected treat for Friday night - a magnificent Languedoc red

Domaine Gayda Chemin de Moscou 2006 Vin de Pays d'Oc

Deep, semi-opaque purple colour, fading to a bright, deep ruby rim. The nose on this wine offers a veritable array of heady - not to mention, considerably complex - aromas, with dark bramble fruit and something vaguely citrus leading the way,  accompanied by notes of meat, leather, sandalwood and allspice. There's also an undeniable touch of brett, but at a level which shouldn't offend the purists, and which is nicely offset by a perceptible whiff of lifted acidity and just the right level of oak. The palate is squeaky-clean and again dominated by brambly fruit, though it certainly doesn't come across as too "sweet" - in fact, there's a sour cherry element which gives the palate plenty of lift, and everything is held together beautifully by a combination of grippy but fine tannin and simply mouth-watering acidity. The finish is gently warming, but very fine and very, very long.

Unusually, for a fine "estate" Languedoc wine, the fruit is actually sourced from various corners of Languedoc and Roussillon, from La Liviniere to the Fenouilledes (if you want to know more, you can read the technical data here on the Gayda website). The mix is 68% Syrah, 24% Grenache and 8% Cinsault, with the various constituents being aged in oak barrels ranging from new to 3 vintages old, for a total of 21 months. It sounds a long time, but the effect is masterly in it's execution. And whilst it is already fiendishly drinkable, all of my instincts tell me that this wine will evolve beautifully for at least another 5 years, and should still be holding on nicely by 2020. At around £20, it certainly isn't cheap, but as the estate's flagship wine, it really does tick all of the boxes - in fact, a Languedoc classic in the making.

One final thought........ With it's collection of fruits from across the region, the lavish oak treatment, the thick, heavy bottle (my only slight gripe) and the minimalist labelling, it would be tempting to pre-judge this wine as being "modern" or "international". But I only ever judge a wine by what is in the glass - and this one absolutely screams Languedoc, from start to finish. It absolutely could not be from anywhere else. So if this is the face of "modern" Languedoc, then please give me more! Another lovely wine sent to me by my friend Stewart Travers at Cambridge Wine Merchants - although there is a fair chance that I myself will stock this wine, in due course.