No matter how good a Pinot Noir from the Mâconnais happens to be, the French A.O.C system in its infinite (but often questionable) wisdom dictates that it can only qualify as a humble "Bourgogne Rouge". Indeed, your average Burgundy snob will usually insist that "proper Burgundy" is only made on the Côte d'Or (or Chablis), completely oblivious to the fact that the Mâconnais and the nearby Côte Chalonnaise are capable of producing some pretty fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (not to mention excellent Gamay). Still, it is their loss, and those of us who are willing to experiment with these lesser-known regions and growers can be richly rewarded. One such grower is Domaine Guillot-Broux, of whom I have written on several previous occasions. I hope to visit Guillot-Broux once again in a couple of weeks, to taste some more wines and with a view to possibly importing some of them later this year. I fear it will turn out to be another of my follies (ref; Mosel, Provence, Loire, etc) but I rarely take the easy route - I like a hard sell! And if wines like this are anything to go by, if I can't sell 'em, I'll be happy to drink 'em myself!
Domaine Guillot-Broux La Myotte 2011 Bourgogne
100% Pinot Noir, from vines planted on 1956, with yields of just 30 hl/ha. Aged for up to 18 months in oak (depending on the vintage). This actually took a day or two to really get into its stride after opening, being initially rather understated and dumb. But boy was it worth the wait, for it blossomed over that time into something quite beautiful - intoxicatingly fragrant, with all manner of red fruit aromas (notably, wild strawberry, redcurrant and even something darker, like blueberry), augmented by myriad secondary aromas like orange oil, damp earth, curry spices and woodsmoke, all wrapped in a cloak of very subtle oak. Really very alluring and sexy stuff, with a finely structured palate - a kernel of sweet and sour fresh and compote red fruits, juicy soft citrus acidity and a touch of leafy herbaceousness, all held together by just the right amount of fine-grained tannins. It really is a completely lovely, charming, delicious wine. Bourgogne Rouge simply doesn't get any better. 12.5% abv.
Watch this space (or make sure you are on my mailing list) for further developments on the coming months..........