Friday, 17 September 2010

Two lovely white wines for a lazy Friday evening - Alsace and Burgundy

After suffering with some sort of throat infection last week, it now seems like open season for whatever virus is going around to attack me - and I now have the beginnings of a common or garden cold. I'm sneezing, have a tickly nose and a bit of a thick head. So I'm using that as an excuse to get through some sample bottles whilst I still have the wherewithal, since my olfactory senses are probably going to be somewhat impeded for the next few days. So, following on from last night's white Burgundy, here are my notes on a couple more delicious white wines - one of which I've just added to my list, and another which will be appearing very shortly.

The colour is bright gold/green, and it has delicious aromas of lime oil, orange zest, wet stone, crushed nettles and mixed herbs. Not to mention, of course, a healthy dose of classic aged Riesling petrol - a gloriously inviting nose! The palate is medium-bodied, tightly-structured and bone-dry, with flavours of peaches and fresh limes. It is beautifully pure and focused, with fabulously mouth-watering acidity, which carries the fruit all the way to a long, citrussy, mineral-laden and herb-tinged finish. At 5 years of age, this wine is absolutely singing right now, but it may get even better over the next 5 or more years. Indeed, it should last for at least 10 years before it begins to fade. Although it would be a shame not to pair it with some spicy Asian food (or even a simple roasted chicken with a lemon or two stuffed in the cavity) I have thoroughly enjoyed a glass or two on its own, whilst writing this tasting note. Since my wife isn't feeling too hungry this evening, I am about to pair it with the remains of last night's spicy/coconutty lamb curry, which will be nice. It is a cracking wine - and, for a semi-mature wine from a top grower, in a great Alsace vintage, a bit of a bargain too. It is now on my list at £13.95, but if you want some, you'd better hurry, as I have less than 3 cases to sell.

Chateau Génot-Boulanger Les Bacs 2008 Mercurey
A pale, limpid gold/straw colour. The nose is a riot of citrus fruits, grated zest and tree fruits, with a strong impression of slate/stone. It is so packed with fruit and mineral nuances, it almost makes the nose prickle. The palate is racy and, like the nose, crammed full of lemon and lime flavours, juicy apples and spice. The flavours are ripe and full, but once again, there is a taut, steely streak of minerality and a core of mouth-watering acidity which keeps you coming back for more. To be honest, if I were tasting this wine blind, its structure and sheer elegance might fool me into thinking I was drinking a wine from the Cote d'Or, rather than the Chalonnaise - it really is that good. This will retail for around £13.50 - again, a bit of a bargain.


Vinogirl said...

Maybe you need a Napa Cabernet, with it's accompanying high alcohol, to clear up that nasty sore throat. However, your Burgundy sounds fab.
Have a good weekend!

Graham said...

Had the 2002 Cuvee Frederic Emile a couple of times on the tasting menu (served with a Thai broth and scallops) at Le Mimosa restaurant near St Saturnin - brilliant wine. Sounds like the Reserve is just a fine.

AlanM said...

Having poured down the sink a whole case of an oxidised Alsace Pinot Gris last weekend I have a passing prejudice against the region. Your notes remind me that I do love those wines, maybe I'll feel better when I get my money back.
Alsace does seem to have a cork issue more than most, I have returned lots of corked bottles (4 in one go whilst in a restaurant in Kaysersberg) and had an unusually high bad bottle count.

Leon Stolarski said...

Vinogirl - plenty of high alcohol wines from this side of the pond, these days! Not had a Napa Cab for a while, though. Maybe soon.

Graham - Frederic Emile is the really expensive one, isn't it? I tasted one a few months ago at a Nottingham bash and it was lovely - but the Réserve is indeed a fine wine.

Alan - I recall sharing an auction purchase of a couple of cases of Josmeyer Pinot Gris a year or two back. The provenance should have been impeccable (from a Cambridge college, I believe). One or two bottles seemed OK, but most of them were shot. Which just goes to show you, provenance isn't everything. On the other hand, I've had very little in the way of corked bottles from the region.

Graham said...

Leon the 2002 Frederic Emile was €70 a bottle in the restaurant so yes, expensive (the 6 glass tasting is €28).