Two wines from the Loire Valley

One of the perks of being in the wine business is that I often get to drink free wine (usually from various growers on my list, and occasionally those looking for me to import them). But I recently received an offer of a couple of bottles, courtesy of a certain French wine promotional organisation, purely it seems for the sole purpose of blogging about them. Of course, I have in the past had numerous offers of some or other product to review, despite the fact that they were in no way related to wine - and I have (for obvious reasons) refused. But wine is different! Not that I would want to fall into the trap of receiving such samples on a regular basis, simply because I don't want to feel obliged to write about them. And if I did write about them, I certainly wouldn't shy away from writing something negative, if called for. Thankfully though, this pair from the Loire, which I decided to accept (purely in the name of research, you understand!) were not bad at all...................

Fief Guérin Vieilles Vignes 2011 Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Sur Lie

Pale straw-gold, with an attractive nose of stone fruits, cut lime, wet stone and a slight hint of the sea. Being a "sur lie", I was expecting a touch of leesy richness to the palate, but it is in fact steely dry and really quite lean, with flavours of unripe apples, lemon pith and just a slight hint of peachiness. Needless to say, it doesn't lack for acidity, and a streak of stony slightly salty minerality adds to the feeling of austerity. That said, Muscadet (at least in my limited experience) was never about opulent fruit flavours, and as an aperitif, it certainly makes the mouth water and gets the taste buds flowing. We drank it with a selection of cured hams, mousse de foie gras de canard, cheeses and salad, and it really did work quite well, although I think my perfect match for it would be moules a la mariniere. At £7.49 from Waitrose, it provides fairly good value, although its combination of dry, pithy fruit and searing acidity may come as quite a shock to all but the most seasoned Muscadet campaigners.

Famille Bougrier Rosé d'Anjou 2011

A blend of Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Grolleau. Quite the loveliest salmon/cherry pink colour. There's an initial touch of reduction on the nose, but this blows off quickly. From there, it is all about fruit - red and black berries, peach, apricot and even a slice of tart apple for extra freshness. Even though I am a confirmed Languedoc-Roussillon addict, I have always tended to favour rosés from the Loire. The relative lack of ripeness in the cooler north lends itself to fresher, fruitier, less alcoholic wines, and at just 11% abv, this one is light enough to allow all of those fresh fruit flavours to shine. There is even a smidgen of residual sugar, which helps it to slip down very easily, though not at the expense of some refreshing, almost orangey acidity. All-in-all, this is a pretty decent rosé for the money (£4.69 from Morrisons). It paired well with some barbecued steak and chipolata sausages we brought back from France, and made a refreshing alternative to the usual full-bodied reds. And as TLD is a Morrisons employee (and shareholder) I am happy to recommend it - especially as I/we didn't have to pay for it! ;-) It is also available from the Wine Society, though at the rather surprising price (given some of their insanely low mark-ups on certain other wines I could mention) of £6.95. Then again, the Morrisons price has all the hallmarks of a typical supermarket loss-leader.

Lots more on my Languedoc trip coming up very shortly.........
         

A visit to Domaine Turner Pageot

Although I promised recently that I would be posting lots of entries on the blog, whilst on holiday in sunny Languedoc, that was before I realised just how much material I would gather in the process. At a conservative estimate, I would say we have already tasted around a hundred wines, from around a dozen different growers, with more to come tomorrow! So as you can imagine, it didn’t take long for me to begin to feel rather daunted by the prospect of transcribing my notes, not only on so many wines, but also so many growers with such interesting stories to tell. Not to mention sifting through countless photos (hopefully some of which may turn out to be half-decent). And, of course, this is our annual holiday, so whilst TLD and I cannot fail to enjoy the time we spend meeting, tasting wines (and often eating) with so many lovely people, we also need time for rest and recuperation. And the rather glorious weather we have enjoyed (save for a couple of iffy days last week) makes the patio and the pool all the more tempting. Nevertheless, I am determined to get at least something published before we leave (what I write now saves me time further down the line, especially if some of the wines are going to end up on the LSFineWines list) so here’s a good one for starters…………….

The landscape along the road heading north from Pézenas to Roujan and Gabian, then on towards Bédarieux, is almost completely dominated by vineyards. It is a landscape we know well, having been coming to this region of Languedoc on and off for the last 20 years or so. Indeed, Les Vignerons de La Carignano, the quaintly-named grower co-operative in Gabian, which lies 10 kilometres or so north of Pézenas, was one of the first wine-related visits I ever made, back in the days when I was a mere wine “amateur” (or even novice!). At the time, La Carignano was blazing a bit of a trail for Languedoc wines, garnering much praise from the likes of Oz Clarke. And they were indeed very good wines. So much so that when we first created Leon Stolarski Fine Wines, theirs were some of the first wines we added to the list.

Fast-forward to 2013 and La Carignano has long since ceased to exist - as have many other co-operatives in the region - having struggled to adapt to the changing market, dwindling demand (from both home and foreign markets) and competition from the ever-increasing number of independent growers. And frankly, the quality did take a dip in the few years before they finally closed in 2007. The upside was that some quality vineyards came up for sale, for whilst a few of the members decided to set up as independents (and no doubt a few chose to take government subsidies to rip up their vines and turn to other crops) many of the older members simply sold their vineyards and retired.

And so it was that younger vignerons like Karen Turner and her husband Emmanuel Pageot were able to seize the opportunity to move in and inject some new life and vigour into a village that shows all the signs of becoming (as Emmanuel puts it) a “dying village”. Of course, they may not change the ultimate fate of Gabian itself, but if the quality of their wines are anything to go by, they will at least succeed in fully realising the potential of those established vineyards and some great (and very varied) terroir.

I first met Emmanuel at The Outsiders tasting in London last November and really loved the wines that he and Karen were making. So it was great to meet up again with Emmanuel, this time in his cellar in Gabian. Unfortunately, I have still to meet Karen, as she was out working her day job, which just happens to be head winemaker at one of Languedoc’s most iconic estates, Prieuré de Saint Jean de Bébian. As Manu said, it helps to pay the bills!

Before tasting the wines, Manu took us on a tour of the Turner Pageot vineyards, small parcels of which are dotted around the hillsides surrounding the village. They have several different parcels of Grenache and Syrah, plus Mourvedre, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, plus a small amount of Marsanne. Altitudes range between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, and the aspects and soil types are many and varied, including schiste (shale), argilo-calcaire (clay-limestone), Myocene-era clay-limestone, volcanic basalt/limestone and bauxite.



Sauvignon Blanc, lying to the south of the village

I think this is Marsanne or Roussanne - so many photos and not enough notes!

Manu, checking for signs of mildew and uneven flowering (considering the long Winter and cool Spring, things are beginning to catch up - and the vines are in remarkably rude health)

After seeing the vineyards, we repaired to the cellar, for a tasting of the current releases from bottle. The cellar and house are situated in the middle of the village - it is quite small, but well-equipped, and they are in the process of buying the house next door, which will effectively give them twice the living space and a much larger cellar. 

The cellar is cramped, but well-equipped

Unlike many growers (especially in the south) Karen and Manu like to encourage warm fermentations for their grapes (anything up to 30C) and, aside from the very occasional stuck fermentation, prefer not to add yeast, relying on the naturally-occurring yeasts to do their job. And apart from occasional spraying of sulphur and copper in the vineyards, they use no sulphites until the point of bottling, and even then, no more than 4 to 6 grams per litre. The aim is to have less than 20g/l of free sulphites in the finished wine. The reds are unfiltered. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention (though you may have already guessed!) that they are fully certified as both organic and biodynamic. And so to taste the wines (August 2013 edit - prices and website links now added, as these are now in stock)………

Le Blanc 2012 - AOP Languedoc

80% Roussanne and 20% Marsanne. The former is fermented traditionally, whilst the latter sits on the skins for 3 months, resulting in what is known as an “orange wine”, which adds not only some extra colour to the wine, but also a real depth of aroma and flavour. Notes of apples, raisins and brioche. Really quite zingy, with excellent acidity to match the rich, ripe tree fruit, orange zest, basil and rosemary flavours. There is also real minerality, with an almost savoury, even saline tang. Restrained power, but with a refreshing streak, and a long, spicy/herby finish. 14.0% abv. £13.50

La Rupture 2012 - Vin de France

100% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% of which is also given the “orange” treatment. The nose is rich and apricotty, with notes of lime oil, orange marmalade, basil, flowers and a whiff of beautifully judged oak. It leads you to expect a rather muscular wine, but quite the opposite – it is a considerably complex wine, chock full of delicate white fruit and floral flavours, apple, pink grapefruit and soft citrus, with a really fine, minerally structure and wonderfully prickly acidity. And absolutely no cat pee or elderflower! In a blind tasting, not many would guess it as Sauvignon, but who cares when the wine is this good. A really brilliant, quirky and utterly delicious wine. 14.0% abv. £17.50

48H – Vin de France

OK, hands up those who have had more than a handful of Clairets in their time (if any)? Clairet is a term the Bordelais use for a light red wine, or a very dark rosé. The method is basically saignée (the free-run juice) but taken only after an extended 48 hour maceration (hence the name 48H). The colour is more of a bright ruby red than rosé, and the nose is distinctly fruity, with notes of raspberry and redcurrant, subtle hints of peach and apricot and a delightful smokiness. There is a welcome hint of rusticity to the palate – and even a touch of grape skin tannin - but it is essentially soft and gloriously fruity, rich and mouth-filling. Think of a young Pinot Noir or Gamay and add a touch of soft, ripe southern fruit and you’re just about there. A really delicious, even quite serious wine. 14.0% abv. £11.95

At this point, Manu poured us a sample of his 2012 Marsanne orange wine, currently ageing in new oak barrels (Vosges oak, with a medium toast) where it will stay for up to 2 years. It smells rather like a traditional white Gran Reserva Rioja (i.e. absolutely wonderful) and the colour is quite a deep orange. The nose offers intense aromas of apricot, orange, lime oil and oak vanillin. The palate is rich and very intense, with the combination of wood and grape tannins making it quite dry and difficult to taste at the moment, but I suspect it will turn into something rather spectacular when it is ready.

Le Rouge 2011 – AOP Languedoc – Pézenas

60% Grenache from schiste, 20% Grenache from other terroirs and 20% Syrah from volcanic basalt. Manu described this as going through a post-fermentation infusion, by which I think he meant an extended maceration on the skins. And it is indeed deeply coloured, almost black/purple, with a tiny rim. The nose is pungent with ripe bramble and plum aromas, with notes of bitter chocolate, curry spices and polished old wood. The palate shows plenty of extract, with rich, ripe, tea-like tannins and orange/lemon acidity. It is robust, but so ripe, and full of fresh red and black fruit flavours, a pot-pourri of herbs and spices and not a little minerality, followed by a long, spicy, grippy finish. Lovely now, and should age nicely for a good few years. 14.0% abv. £13.50

Carmina Major 2010 – Coteaux du Languedoc – Pézenas

70% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, aged for 1 year in wood, after an extended 3 month maceration. Smoky, tarry and to begin with a touch reductive. Dense and smoky, with rich bramble and plum flavours, opening out with notes of spices and herbs and bright, orangey acidity. I took the bottles home with me and this really opened out nicely with a few hours of air, with the nose revealing aromas of old wood, meat, curry spices and orange peel. The palate is certainly rich, ripe and extracted, but surprisingly elegant. Redcurrant, cherry and bramble fruit flavours combine beautifully with spices, herbs and salty, stony minerality, in a deliciously tangy, sweet-sour whole. A serious (and seriously good) wine, built to age, but surprisingly good to drink now. 14.0% abv. £15.95

The current range from Turner Pageot - coming soon to a certain UK wine merchant!

Following our tasting, Manu very generously treated us to a 3-course lunch at the local café (for me, some rather good charcuterie and salad to start, followed by veal escalope with creamy potatoes, finishing up with a really delicious, dense mousse au chocolat). Then it was back to the cave for a tasting of the 2012 reds from the tanks and barrels………….

Firstly, we tasted Grenache from 3 different terroirs;

From bauxite terroir, ageing in tank – Rich, ripe and heady. Tannic, but crammed full of fruit and truffle aromas and flavours. Relatively low acidity.

From schiste terroir, ageing in barrel – Wow, what a difference! Again, quite tannic and primary, but with loads of fruit and quite wonderful acidity and minerality, making for a very refreshing wine.

From Limestone terroir, ageing in barrel – A heady perfume of black fruits and violets, iodine, licorice and a hint of fresh apple. Soft, rich, ripe, sweet fruit, with ripe tannins and good orangey acidity.

Then a couple of Syrah;

From volcanic terroir – Heady black fruit, herb and spice aromas, a touch reduced, with some tarry notes. Almost painfully intense and tannic at the moment, with the acidity hidden.

From limestone terroir – Fresher nose, very perfumed and floral, with black cherries and eau de vie. Sweeter on the palate, but with more acidity too, and soft(er) tannins. Long and powerful, and destined to be blended with Mourvedre, in the Carmina Major.

And finally, Mourvedre – The colour is almost black. Iodine, chocolate, prunes, bramble, beef and leather. Super-ripe, soft, salty/tangy, big tannin and relatively low acidity. Concentrated and grippy.

And that was it! After almost 4 hours of talking, driving, tasting, eating and more tasting, we bade farewell to Manu and made the short journey back to the sanctity of our little hideaway and a relaxing afternoon by the pool (the sun was well and truly out by then). All-in-all, a fabulous visit, and I look forward to importing the full range of wines from Turner-Pageot, as soon as we get home.

              

Feels like coming home - holiday time!

Well, not really home, but we are ensconced once again in our comfortable little hideaway in Laurens, deep in the heart of Languedoc wine country. Not that we own the place, of course, but we love it so much here that we are happy to pay for the privilege of returning (for the 3rd time) to what really does feel like a home from home. Apart, that is, from the weather, the scenery, the wine, the food, the language and the general pace of life!

Our journey from Nottingham was fairly uneventful. We left at the stroke of midnight on Friday morning, and actually managed to make the 4am ferry, despite a bit of a scare on the M20, when the car suffered a sudden loss of power. Thankfully, it was just the same "faulty anti-pollution system" that caused it to cut out completely a few weeks ago, whilst driving into Nottingham. But we managed to get to Dover without any problem and the engine light finally went out by the time we got to France. Something to have a look into when we get back to the UK, but I think it may be a case of supermarket fuel clogging-up the system and the fact that it needed a good blast to clear it. And 1,000 miles in 40 hours certainly seems to have done the trick!

Anyway, once in Dunkerque, we headed south towards Reims and onto the Maconnais in southern Burgundy, for a 4pm appointment and a tasting of some brilliant Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir, made by Emmanuel Guillot at Domaine Guillot-Broux. I'll tell you more about this in a future post. Then it was a half-hour drive to our base for the night in Saint-Gengoux le National, care of my good friend David Bennett and his kindly neighbour, Father Micheal MacAvish, who was there waiting for us with the key - not to mention a very welcome chilled bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne and a selection of nibbles. A decent supper and a good night's sleep was just what the doctor ordered, and by 9am Saturday morning, we were ready for the last part of our journey south. And so we swapped the gentle slopes of southern Burgundy for the rugged landscapes of central Languedoc..........



A sunny Friday evening in the Maconnais

 

An even more sunny Monday evening in Languedoc (looking north, from the vineyards of Faugeres towards the foothills of the Haut Languedoc)



On the way, we stopped for visits to a couple more wine growers, in the far south-west of the Cotes du Rhone and nearby Costieres de Nimes, with the latter in particular yielding some spectacularly brilliant wines. Again, I will report on these over the next few days, but suffice to say that I was very excited at this new discovery.

We finally arrived in Laurens at around 7pm, having stocked up on food and supplies in Pézenas. The weather since then has been mostly hot and sunny, though today was rather unusual, in that it was mostly cloudy, but every time the sun peeped through the clouds, it started to spit with rain! The forecast for the next couple of days is for rather changeable conditions, so it is the ideal time to go hunting for wine. We have three visits planned for tomorrow, plus perhaps a couple on Thursday, on which I will also report very soon.

Meanwhile, it is off to bed.........

            

A delicious Provençal white and red pair from Villa Minna

Here is another post that has enjoyed/endured a rather long gestation period. I enjoyed these wines more than a few weeks ago, but simply haven't had the time (or do I mean energy?) to write my notes up - which is a shame, because they are lovely, and from one of my "undiscovered gems" in Provence, Villa Minna. I believe that - partly, if not entirely due to my having included a couple of the current vintages I list in a sampler case I sent to Chris Kissack at the Wine Doctor - Villa Minna actually sent some of their later vintages for Chris to review. Which he did so, on his blog, as long ago as February - which just goes to show the extent of my procrastination! Looking back at his notes, he clearly enjoyed the white more than the red, but I loved them both and have a feeling that the red has much more to give, over the next 5 to 10 years. Here are my own notes on those very same wines...........

Minna Vineyard Blanc 2009 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

Pale, shiny gold colour. The nose exhibits complex aromas of apricot, quince, orange blossom and clove, with subtle roasted nut/almond and toasty oak nuances. The palate is rich and expansive, yet at the same time complex and subtle, with flavours of preserved white fruits, lemon oil and again a suggestion of roasted nuts. There's a subtle warmth and spiciness too, with hints of fine Calvados and a licoricey quality, but with just the right amount of acidity and minerality. There are plenty of savoury, herby and rich buttery/pastry notes and a lingering, tangy, spicy apple pie quality to the finish. I happened to take another bottle of this to the Nottingham Wine Circle a couple of weeks ago and it went down a storm. I think the consensus was that, although it isn't Trévallon (which costs 3 times as much) it is pretty damn good wine! And as it happens, I took the remains home with me and am sipping the last half-glass as I type (a full 2 weeks later) and it is still really singing. In fact, it is even more integrated and complex, with ample acidity showing through (a good sign for long-term ageing) and all of those fruity, spicy, herby, mineral flavours to the fore. It really is delicious!

Minna Vineyard Rouge 2007 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

I wrote my note for this on day 2, which gave it plenty of time to open-out and show its true colours. A lovely nose - bramble, plum and cassis fruit aromas combine beautifully with notes of new leather, creamy oak, sous-bois, patisserie and orange eau de vie. Not to mention a veritable pot-purri of exotic spices and herbs. Clearly, the Wine Doctor should have let this wine breathe for 24 hours! It really is beautifully lifted and perfumed, all of which comes through on the palatewith vibrant red cherry and black fruit flavours, ripe, spicy, grippy tannins and really mouth-watering, citrussy acidity. And despite (or perhaps because of) those grippy tannins, it all makes for a deliciously tangy, sweet and sour (and considerably long) finish. It may be packed with rich, ripe fruit and flavour, but it is no soupy Rhone-alike, because it is actually rather elegant and light on its feet. From a great year, this is just lovely! Revue du Vins de France - 15.5? Wine Doctor 15? Come on! Enjoy now (with food) or in another 5 to 10 years or more. A real cracker.

I currently sell the 2005 and 2006 Minna Vineyard reds, along with the 2007 and 2008 whites. And they are lovely too, so if you haven't tried them, I promise you - you should. And at £17.80 per bottle, they do provide rather excellent value for mony, when compared to many of Provence's other top wines. Hopefully, the 2007 red and 2009 white will be in stock later in the summer.

Right - I'm off on holiday, to the south of France! And my regular readers will know what that means - lots of new posts over the next couple of weeks!

            

Sticky heaven - a vertical of Stanton & Killeen Muscats and Topaques

This is a report that I have been meaning to publish for a number of weeks now, but I never actually got around to writing my tasting notes until a few days ago. Which in itself is not a problem, since the wines I am going to tell you about can last for weeks, months or probably even years after opening, without any change or deterioration in quality - they really are built to last!

This was a tasting for the Nottingham Wine Circle, organised in conjunction with Richard Kelley MW (in his capacity as buyer for the importers Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies) and presented by myself and Wendy Killeen, CEO for Stanton & Killeen Wines. Although many of us present were already to some extent quite familiar with the Muscats and Topaques (actually Muscadelle and formerly known as Liqueur Tokay) of Rutherglen, Wendy was a mine of information and enthusiasm, answering questions as we went along. She suggested that we taste the wines in 2 flights - the Topaques, followed by the Muscats, moving up the quality ladder in each flight. And it was definitely the right call, for the difference between the levels (and indeed the 2 grapes/styles) was marked, with the level of intensity and lusciousness being ramped up with each successive wine.

The delightful Wendy Killeen, CEO of Stanton & Killeen Wines

Briefly, the Rutherglen classification, introduced around 10 years ago, comprises 4 different levels that mark a progression in age, richness, complexity and intensity of flavour (and I quote from the printed information given to us during the tasting);

Rutherglen

The foundation of the style: displaying fresh fruit aromas, rich fruit on the palate, clean grape spirit and great length of flavour.

Classic

A maturing style imparting greater levels of richness and complexity; exhibiting the beginnings of 'rancio' characters produced from prolonged maturation in oak.

Grand

A mature style with greater intensity and mouth-filling depth of flavour, complexity and viscosity; producing layers of texture and flavour with seamless integration of the flavours of fruit, grape spirit, and mature oak.

Rare

The pinnacle of Rutherglen Muscats and Topaques, the richest and most complete wines – displaying deep colour, intense fruit and ‘rancio’ characters, rich viscous texture and extraordinary depth of mellowed complex flavours.

And so to the wines - I've used a basic 3-star system to indicate my favourites..........

Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Topaque

Medium golden brown. Apricot and burnt peach, orange marmalade, molasses, polished wood and damp earth. Even a touch of salinity/savouriness. Rich, unctious, warming and super-sweet, but with a delightful streak of tangy orange peel acidity. Earthy and surprisingly complex. **

Stanton & Killeen Classic Rutherglen Topaque

A deeper colour, more orange-brown. Musky/earthy nose. Burnt Seville orange, fig, molasses, hints of mocha and chocolate. Rich and gloopy, with yet more residual sugar, more damp earth, but again with lovely tangy acidity. There's an interestingvegetal/savoury note in both this and the one above, which is hard to put my finger on, but it makes the wines all the more attractive. This is almost a meal in itself. **+

Stanton & Killeen Grand Rutherglen Topaque

Deeper still - the colour of treacle toffee! Smells like treacle toffe, too, or a super-rich Christmas cake, again with those lovely earthy, damp, musky aromas and a whiff of fine eau de vie. The flavours are ramped-up another couple of notches - intense, rich, tangy, almost reminiscent of (say) a 6 putt Tokaji, with acidity to match. Immense flavours, with those rich fruitcake flavours augmented by notes of ginger, cinnamon and all manner of exotic spices. Immense length, too. A superb wine. ***

Stanton & Killeen Rare Rutherglen Topaque

How deep can you go? This one looks almost like black treacle! The nose is redolent of fine Armagnac, with aromas of damp earth, peat, burnt toffee apple, dark chocolate, fig and curry spices. Amazingly complex and worthy of lengthy contemplation. Indeed, the angels must have taken more than their fair share of this one, such is the almost painful level of intensity and concentration. And yet pain never felt so pleasurable! The flavours go all the way from A to Z (not to mention all the way to 11!) with all of the sweet, sour, savoury, salty, earthy and tangy elements in complete harmony, and a finish that goes on forever. Heavenly wine. ***+

Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Muscat

Quite a dark orange/brown colour, with a definite red-ish hue. Roses, violets and turkish delight leap from the glass, with notes of redcurrant jam, orange marmalade and milk chocolate. A really lovely nose - earthy, but at the same time floral and grapey. The palate is rich, with flavours of fresh grapes and figs, with an intense dark muscavado sugar sweetness and just enough tangy acidity to keep it from cloying. One for pouring on the ice cream. *

Stanton & Killeen Classic Rutherglen Muscat

Like the above, only darker and redder. A lovely waft of freshly-baked sourdough bread and rich, dark fruitcake emanates from the glass - doughy, almost donutty, with notes of flowers, spiced dried fruits, molasses, figs, ginger, with hints of mint and balsam.The palate is uber-rich and sweet, but this time has all the acidity required to give it real lift. A bundle of soft, sweet, tangy loveliness. **

Stanton & Killeen Grand Rutherglen Muscat

Deep tawny colour, almost like an aged, dark red wine. Amazingly, it almost smells like a perfectly aged red wine, too, with delicate aromas of redcurrant and spiced bramble, with hints of dried orange peel, incense, damp earth and mocha, all steeped in the finest eau de vie. The flavours are just so intense, so riveting and mouth-filling, with burnt chocolate, candied peel, coffee grounds, parma violets and a gently saline, savoury, meaty and smoky quality. Wave upon wave of spices and herbs, dried exotic fruits (mango, papaya) and black syrup, with an almost tannic grip , all countered by the most wonderfully tangy orange acidity. Another heavenly wine. ***

Stanton & Killeen Rare Rutherglen Muscat

Almost coffee-coloured, and again with a distinct red hue, this one is so viscous, so thick, it almost prevents the aromas from escaping. It isn't muted, but the aromas are hard to describe. The palate, though, is a different matter. The texture is immense, almost like treacle, and completely coats the mouth with flavours of muscavado, laced with orange oil, curry spices, soy and dark chocolate, yet shot through with a streak of tangy acidity, and hardly a sign of anything spiritous or warm. A completely contrary and compelling wine, with massive length. Sheer ambrosia in a glass! ***

On the night, I marginally preferred the Muscats, but tasting through all of the wines again, several weeks later, my allegiance was with the Topaques, which overall seemed to possess just a little more complexity and depth. But it is a close call - and there wasn't a wine in there that I wouldn't choose to drink at the drop of a hat.

Thanks Wendy - and let's hope we can do it all again when you are next in the UK!

         

Another delicious red Burgundy

No matter how good a Pinot Noir from the Mâconnais happens to be, the French A.O.C system in its infinite (but often questionable) wisdom dictates that it can only qualify as a humble "Bourgogne Rouge". Indeed, your average Burgundy snob will usually insist that "proper Burgundy" is only made on the Côte d'Or (or Chablis), completely oblivious to the fact that the Mâconnais and the nearby Côte Chalonnaise are capable of producing some pretty fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (not to mention excellent Gamay). Still, it is their loss, and those of us who are willing to experiment with these lesser-known regions and growers can be richly rewarded. One such grower is Domaine Guillot-Broux, of whom I have written on several previous occasions. I hope to visit Guillot-Broux once again in a couple of weeks, to taste some more wines and with a view to possibly importing some of them later this year. I fear it will turn out to be another of my follies (ref; Mosel, Provence, Loire, etc) but I rarely take the easy route - I like a hard sell! And if wines like this are anything to go by, if I can't sell 'em, I'll be happy to drink 'em myself!

Domaine Guillot-Broux La Myotte 2011 Bourgogne

100% Pinot Noir, from vines planted on 1956, with yields of just 30 hl/ha. Aged for up to 18 months in oak (depending on the vintage). This actually took a day or two to really get into its stride after opening, being initially rather understated and dumb. But boy was it worth the wait, for it blossomed over that time into something quite beautiful - intoxicatingly fragrant, with all manner of red fruit aromas (notably, wild strawberry, redcurrant and even something darker, like blueberry), augmented by myriad secondary aromas like orange oil, damp earth, curry spices and woodsmoke, all wrapped in a cloak of very subtle oak. Really very alluring and sexy stuff, with a finely structured palate - a kernel of sweet and sour fresh and compote red fruits, juicy soft citrus acidity and a touch of leafy herbaceousness, all held together by just the right amount of fine-grained tannins. It really is a completely lovely, charming, delicious wine. Bourgogne Rouge simply doesn't get any better. 12.5% abv.

Watch this space (or make sure you are on my mailing list) for further developments on the coming months..........

          

Some lovely wines at Nottingham Wine Circle last week

After the many themed/tutored tastings over the Autumn and Winter months, the Nottingham Wine Circle is now firmly into its Spring/Summer series of "bottle blind" tastings. Basically, these are free-for-alls, in which we bring anything we like - so long as it is (hopefully) drinkable! And this week was one of those weeks when more than a few wines exceeded those expectations. These days, I can't be doing with writing too many on-the-spot tasting notes, but here are my notes from a quartet of the best or most interesting wines from this tasting, all written a couple of days later, from what remained of my samples. And they had all held up remarkably well......

Jean Francois Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2010 Cotes du Jura
Pale yellow/gold, with mealy/nutty, apple and lime/lemon aromas, with a hint of under-ripe peach. The oak, which was fairly prominent at first, has fully integrated. And although the wine doesn't quite have the power, intensity and grip that it had 2 days before, it is still a lovely drop, with gorgeous apple and citrus flavours, deep minerality and completely mouth-watering acidity. A really cracking wine, which would give many a 1er Cru from Burgundy a run for its money.

Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec 2000
I ask you - what's not to like in a wine like this? Intense, almost floral and perfumed, with aromas of minerals, wet wool, lime oil, quince, subtle spicy notes and a heady richness redolent of molasses. Not that it is anything but bone dry, with an almost steely intensity and searing lemon acidity. The flavours are quite subtle, yet very complex - at the same time rich, yet delicate, full of citrus and tree fruits, with a delightful earthiness and great length. Utterly mouth-watering and lovely.

Domaine Florentin Clos de l'Arbalestrier Blanc 1989 Saint-Joseph
Crikey, this is good wine - possibly even great wine. A blend of Marsanne and Roussane, I believe. Even at 24 years of age, it is chock full of life, fruit, complexity and hedonistic enjoyment. It shows all manner of aromas and flavours, notably flowers, honey, clarified butter, peach and apricot, petrol and minerals, with just the merest hint of toffee to betray its maturity. It is rich and focused in the mouth, yet pretty dry and zesty, with more in the way of citrus/orange/lemon flavours than the nose would suggest, with a gentle earthiness and hints of old wood. And the finish just goes on and on. A glorious, ethereal wine!

Domaine Michel Gros Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2005

I brought this one, and it went down a storm - and for such a "lowly" denomination (at least in Burgundy terms) it really does punch above its weight. Unlike many Burgundy vintages, which tend to go through a closed phase at this sort of age, I have tasted very few 2005's that are not pretty much open for business. And this one is still singing, with delectable red cherry, wild strawberry and forest floor aromas, and even a hint of something darker and richer, like damsons/plums. The palate is delightfully subtle, deceptively light and airy, with bags of ripe, tangy red and dark fruit flavours, countered by a hint of apple tartness, yet with a certain creaminess, countered by ultra-ripe tannins and abundant acidity, making for a grippy yet really elegant wine. If you have some, then I would suggest you can drink it now, or age for another 5 years or more. Either way, it is a cracking little wine.

More soon....................

            

Nebbiolo and Beaujolais - what's not to like?

Here are a couple of reds that went down very nicely over the last few days. Note to self - must drink more Beaujolais and Piedmont wines!

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2011

A pleasingly light cherry red colour, with light, bright cherry fruit aromas to match. Certainly not one-dimensional, though, with oodles of wild strawberry, forest floor, fresh orange peel and creamy aromas, with subtle hints of mixed herbs and soft spices. Even at this stage, it is deliciously drinkable - not overly complex, but fresh and fruity, with creamy tannins and loads of cherry skin bite and acidity. It might not be profound, but at £12.50, it is pretty good value for a more than decent Piedmont Nebbiolo, and a credit to what is by common consensus one of Europe's top wine co-operatives.

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2010

I used to drink quite a bit of Cru Beaujolais, as I imported wines from a couple of growers who produced some pretty good Morgon, Fleurie, Chénas and Regnié. Then again, I had to drink quite a lot of it, since it proved to be a hard sell to my customers! Suffice to say that I gave up in the end. That said, good Beaujolais seems to be making a comeback, so perhaps I should look to start importing from the region again - especially if they are anywhere near as good as this one. It is certainly at the darker/richer end of the spectrum, with a medium/dark cherry hue and a nose more at the bramble rather than red fruit end of the spectrum, yet wonderfully earthy, spicy and high-toned, again with a lick of orange peel. On the palate, it is classic Beaujolais, with a touch of sweet redcurrant and bramble fruit, countered by juicy, tangy, sour cherry acidity and just the right level of grippy tannin. Add to that a hint of pepper, spice and damp earth and you have a wine that is a real delight. Delicious on its own, but so food-friendly too - the other night it went well with a home-made ox-cheek and kidney pie, whilst last night the remainder was an excellent accompaniment to some Cumberland sausages and pasta, with a rich, spicy, herby, garlicy, oily tomato sauce. This will set you back around 11 or 12 quid, which is again excellent value for top-notch Beaujolais.

Next up will be my report on a brilliant tasting of Rutherglen stickies.........
          

What I've been up to, plus a few interesting recent wines

Oh dear. Looking at the date of my last post, it would appear I have written precisely naff all for over 6 weeks. Not good enough, I know, though the reasons are manifold - with downright laziness being just one of them. To be fair, it has been a strange (and occasionally difficult) few months.

I seem to have spent a good part of my time in hospitals and doctors' surgeries, partly for checks on my own health (thankfully everything seems to be OK again) and partly due to the fact that my Mother has been in hospital on 3 occasions since December, firstly with pneumonia and latterly due to the ongoing after-effects. Seems her heart is a bit weak now, but with a few more trips to the doctor, and an ever-increasing daily coctail of drugs (warfarin next, I believe) she is still alive and kicking. And long may it continue - even at 84, she is certainly not the sort to let it get the better of her. She still lives on her own, in her own house and, whilst we have all been a lot more attentive since her illness, she manages pretty well. That said, I go to see her most days, either to do a few odd jobs or just to keep her company, which (having probably not done so as much as I should have in the past) has been really rewarding for me. Whatever happens, she isn't going to be around forever, so I'm glad it has whipped me into shape now, rather than when it is too late. After all, nothing else in life is as important as the ones we love.

Plenty of other things have been going on in my life, too. Much of March and early April were taken up driving around the country doing wine tastings, whilst May has been spent mostly in the garden - including (to borrow the phrase from Spinal Tap) a bizarre gardening accident, in which I tore some muscles in my side and cracked a rib or two. Of course, I have also been drinking a few decent wines and writing my tasting notes on them as I go along. Indeed, this post has been literally weeks in the pipeline. Problem is, with all the other stuff going on, and the resulting lack of time (not to mention the necessary drive and energy) typing everything up has, until now, simply been a chore too far. Let's face it, I don't earn any money from this blog - I do it for my own enjoyment (and hopefully to help my readers pass a pleasant few minutes!). And believe me, transcribing written notes is just about the most boring job in the world, especially since I am no touch typist! I'm actually considering buying one of those fancy tablets with a stylus pen, which would (if everything I read about them is to be believed) enable me to write on a screen and use an "app" to convert it into a text document. It could transform my dull existence and obviate the need for me to sit at the computer so much. Of course, if any of you have some useful advice on alternatives, please do let me know.

Anyway, for starters, here are my notes on some of the best or most enjoyable wines from the past few weeks (with more to come in future posts)...........

Cono Sur Sparkling Brut NV Bio Bio Valley, Chile

Rich, leesy, lime and lemon aromas and flavours, with a a touch of fresh, sweet apple ripeness, all underpinned by a strong mineral streak. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling all work in perfect harmony, in a bottle that is just in the right place, although I doubt that another year or two more would do it any harm. A lovely friday night aperitif.

Domaine de La Garance Les Claviers 2006 Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

This is a wine that really does take time to open out and show its true colours - in this case, my note is written a full week or more after it was first opened. A hugely complex nose of white flowers, violets, mint, herbs de Provence, mixed spices, lime marmalade, old leather and all manner of white fruits (quince, peach, apricot) and even a suggestion of delicate red fruits. It really is a gloriously complex and flavoursome bottle, with myriad fruit and non-fruit flavours, a touch of tannic grip (even for a white wine) and tangy acidity. Add to that a spicy, herby, southern warmth and you have a quite wonderful wine, with real charm. For a wine that has little added sulphur, it is quite remarkable that it should smell and taste so good, more than a week after being opened. I still have a handful of bottles of this left at £12.95, but once they are gone, that's it.

Domaine La Combe Blanche Pinot de l'Enfer 1998 Vin de Pays des Cotes du Brian

For those of you unfamiliar with Guy Vanlancker's wines, Cotes du Brian has nothing to do with a Monty Python film. Brian (basically pronounced "bree-on" - though you may wish to add a bit of French spit for authenticity) is the local river - though doubtless no more than a trickle in summer - which lends its name for the most local VdP denomination. Indeed, "a local name, for local wines"! This (along with a 2001 Tempranillo from the same l'Enfer vineyard that also showed excellently) was a bottle I had been keeping for a tasting of unusual grape varieties from Languedoc that I presented a couple of weeks ago to Nottingham Wine Circle. It showed very well on the night, but once again (a full week after opening) the last glass was a real treat - which is quite amazing for any Pinot Noir, in my experience. The colour is a quite evolved brick/tawny. It has a wonderful aged Pinot character, more in the way of Claifornia in style than (say) New Zealand or Burgundy, but with a good degree of elegance. Lots of forest floor and rotting red/black fruit aromas and flavours, with classy oak and floral nuances, hints of garrigue herbs and white pepper and lots of secondary/tertiary flavours and a welcome touch of volatile acidity. In fact, after a week, it takes on an almost Musar-like quality. A really lovely wine and even mildly surprising - at least for a 15 year-old Languedoc Pinot Noir. Actually, it is (to my nose and palate) really just coming into its prime drinking window. I wish I had a few bottles left. I must ask Guy if he has any tucked away that I could buy!

Finally (for now at least) I thought it would be nice to try a much younger Pinot from the same stable - in this case an unoaked Pinot from the lower slopes near the village of La Liviniere. I must admit that (for me at least, and the above wine notwithstanding) Guy has yet to really "nail" Pinot Noir. In the Languedoc heat, it tends to have a bit too much of everything for its own good - especially alcohol. And yet....... and yet......

Domaine La Combe Blanche Calamiac Terroir Pinot Noir 2009 IGP Pays Côtes du Brian

This really is rather enjoyable. A pot-pourri of polished wood and leather, damp earth, red cherry, raspberry and bramble, and a whole load of pepper and spice. Even despite the noticeable streak of warming alcohol, it almost seems right for the wine, which (in a curious and totally irrational comparison with Burgundy) is less about the grape than the terroir. A less Burgundian Pinot Noir would be difficult to imagine, but it is full of life and charm and rich with the warmth of the south. And it went beautifully with a barbecued/griddled selection of rump steak, lamb chops and Lincolnshire sausages, with balsamic tomatoes and a pasta salad (remember that nice wether we had last week?). A very yummy wine, which may even get better over the next few years - after all, Guy Vanlancker's wines often reward patience! £10.50 (but only a couple of cases left).

               

Men behaving badly - social media and the wine "professional"

At any given time, lurking somewhere in the depths of my Blogger "dashboard" are a handful of drafts - posts that I have part-written and may or may not eventually see the light of day. Occasionally, I have a clear-out and get rid of the ones which are either no longer relevant or topical, or which I simply cannot be bothered to complete. But the bare bones of what follows have been sitting there for a few months now - essentially, a bit of a rant about the propensity of people - mainly men, to put it bluntly - to force their (often ill-conceived or rash) opinions onto anyone who cares to read them. The most valuable attribute of the Internet can at the same time be the worst - it offers a window to the world, yet provides a certain degree of anonimity for those who wish to sound-off or, in the worst cases, abuse the privilege...............

Although I guess I am a "wine professional", insofar as I import and sell the stuff, it isn't usually a term I apply to myself. The fact that I also write a blog and use Facebook and Twitter is purely incidental (although I feel I do it quite well - in fact, better than some of those so-called professionals). After all, if I were not keen enough to be in the business in the first place, I doubt that I would be moved to share my thoughts about wine in a  public place. No, by "professional", I mean those who write and/or talk about wine for a living - the wine media.

I doubt very much that spats involving - or between - various members of the wine-writing fraternity are a new phenomenon. In my experience, by no means all of them have egos the size of Texas, but it often seems to help, especially if such writers' main means of communication with their readers is via blogs and social media. And let's face it, the importance of the printed word, be it in newspapers, magazines, or even books, seems to wane more and more with each passing year. Don't get me wrong - I love the Internet and can hardly imagine going back to a world without it. And of course I would never have been able to start a wine business without it - a bricks and mortar wine shop would have been (and still remains) way beyond my means and capabilities. And Facebook (and to a lesser extent Twitter) can be a fun way of communicating, not only with friends you see on a regular basis, or those who you see only occasionally/rarely, but also "friends" you have never even met. Just as long as the discussions remain civilised, of course. My mantra for social media is never to say anything to/about anyone on a public (or even private) forum that I wouldn't say to their face. Or at least to try and resist the urge to do so. It doesn't always work out that way, but I suppose we all put our foot in our mouth occasionally!

But I have noticed a fashion emerging amongst certain wine writers recently for posting remarks on Twitter and Facebook that are clearly intended to provoke. Sometimes it may be a link to their latest blog post, other times it may be an isolated remark - something along the lines of "(provocative statement) - discuss". At which point, more often than not, the writer retreats to a safe distance, whilst a mix of casual observers, sycophants and naysayers proceed to slog it out. I even feel the need to stick my two penn'orth in occasionally! A recent example was where the writer (a particularly prolific blogger, tweeter and - to be frank - serial troller) suggested that, because he didn't rate a wine that another (world-renowned) critic scored highly, said critic had somehow lost the plot. He then went on to remark that the very same critic is "a legend, a hero and an inspiration to me, but his scoring is boxing him into a corner."  It all smacks of a "my points are worth more than so-and-so's points" sort of attitude. Even more annoyingly, the original comment was made on Twitter, but also appeared automatically on Facebook, although the writer didn't see fit to reply to any resulting comments by his Faceboof "friends". Which to my mind displays a staggering level of arrogance, not to mention a large degree of contempt for his "friends" or followers. And because this was a far from isolated incident, I felt rather good about deleting this person's Facebook and Twitter feeds from my accounts! 

Another situation which occurred around the same time concerned another equally well-known wine writer (and an MW no less), who became embroiled with mutual a friend/follower on Facebook about the subject of ageing wines - my, what a controversial subject! Whilst many people, myself included, think that too many wines are drunk far too young, our writer friend decided to take completely the opposite view, stating quite categorically that "most whites, except Riesling and (at a pinch) Chardonnay, Beaujolais, most Pinot Noir, a lot of Syrahs, Loire Cab Francs, etc, etc" do not age. I replied that, in my opinion, virtually all of the above (which are any good in the first place, that is) benefit from plenty of age. Back came the reply "No they don't. Most of them are great young too. You need to taste more young Pinots. Which wines evolve in fascinating ways? Chenin, yes, Riesling, yes. Sauternes at a pinch. Hunter Semillon. That's about it." Given the rather dismissive (nay, arrogant) tone of this guy's replies, I decided that there was little point in continuing the discussion. Just as well, really, given that it deteriorated thereafter into a rather unseemly bout of handbags between the two original protagonists, resulting in a very public "unfriending". A very unseemly episode and a lesson in how not to use social media.

And then there is the seemingly never-ending one-man crusade by a wine journalist and fellow blogger to discredit a  producer of sweet wines in the Loire Valley, whose viticultural and vinification methods he suggests are at best contrary to the principles of fine winemaking and at worst illegal. The fact that this grower is particularly highly-regarded by so many wine drinkers (and indeed makes arguably the finest wine of the appellation in question) seems to make no difference to the journalist. Unfortunately, having done so much good work in the past, investigating so many more worthy incidents of real wine fraud, I feel that he is in danger of damaging his own reputation as much as - if not more than - his quarry. 

The thing that links these episodes together (albeit very loosely) is that they are all propogated by men. Not that the fairer sex is entirely blameless, but the nearest I have seen to spats about wine involving women was a bit of "handbags" between Jancis Robinson MW and Robert Parker Jr over the merits of a certain Bordeaux chateau's wine (and I know whose palate I would trust!) and a respected female Loire expert's online discussion/argument with the aforementioned blogger about his vendetta. Again, I know whose side I am on.

But now to the thing that really prompted me to publish this post - the work of a certain lady by the name of Helena Nicklin (a.k.a Winebird), whose interesting take on the wine video genre appears to have split the jury, garnering praise and derision in equal measure. The videos came to my attention via a thread on a UK-based wine discussion forum (which many of you reading this may well contribute to, or at least read). Ultimately, the thread ran to almost 200 posts and I have to admit that, as a man, I was more than a little disappointed - though far from surprised - at some of the derogatory remarks offered by so many regular (and almost exclusively male) contibutors, not to mention the (male) owner of the forum..

Personally, I think they provide an entertaining, light-hearted, yet extremely effective concept in attempting to bring "proper wine" to the masses. And thankfully, a few of the more tolerant and enlightened contributors seemed to agree with me. More importantly, I have a feeling that the same sentiment would be shared by countless hordes of non-wine geeks - surely the sort of people they are actually aimed at (rather than those of us who think we know it all). Of course, a pretty face helps (with apologies to anyone who thinks I'm being sexist, but I'm a red-blooded male!). Would I find the videos so interesting if they were presented by a man? Probably not, but the content would still be relevant and informative. Perhaps "Winehusband" (I believe that is Helena's other half's handle) could make some for the ladies!
        
Should Winebird be accepted into the world of the professional online wine commentator? Damn right she should. Her style might not go down too well with the old guard, whose often elitist and tired approach to the subject of wine is threatened by the more populist style of the new generation, but if it gets more people genuinely interested in wine (rather than just consuming the cheap and cheerful stuff as a beverage) then that can only be a positive.

As for wine commentary as a whole, and the Internet in general, it really doesn't matter whether you are a man or a woman - there's room for everyone. And if you don't like it, then don't read/watch it - but don't just jump in and slag it off without good reason.
            
         

Sensational new Jurançons from Domaine de Montesquiou

Apologies for the rather "sensationalist" headline, but there are occasions when only a tabloid-style title will suffice! And this is one of those occasions, because each time I take delivery of the latest vintages from Domaine de Montesquiou, I am filled with genuine excitement about the mouth-watering wines that lay in store for me. They actually arrived about a week and-a-half ago, but I have been so busy with various tastings and other commitments (wine, family, a poorly mother) in recent weeks that I have barely had time to sit and write them up until now. And my word are they good - indeed, collectively the finest set of wines I have taken from this grower since I started working with them. Which is remarkable, because they have always been nothing less than brilliant in the past. And as if I needed confirmation, both of the dry whites went down extremely well in the tastings I have presented over the last week (as did the 2009 Grappe d'Or, last evening in Grimsby). These are now available via the LSFineWines website, so if you have never tried them, give them a go - and prepare to be bowled over!

Domaine de Montesquiou l'Estela 2012 Jurançon Sec

Clear, pale silvery-gold colour, with a lovely nose of freshly-cut lime, grass, nettles and pea pods. Very floral, too, redolent of spring flowers and elder blossom, dried herbs and a real sense of stony minerality. The flavours are intensely fresh and focused, zingy rather than pithy, with flavours of lime and lemon zest, hints of tart apple and a touch of peach. Medium-bodied, but with excellent concentration of fruit, wrapped around a core of intense minerality and quite breathtaking acidity. Subtle ginger and spice notes linger on a persistent, mouth-watering finish. If you appreciate delicate, nervy whites – light and fresh on the palate, yet with tremendous depth and complexity - then you will love this wine. Furthermore, whilst it is wonderful to drink on its own, it is also a superb match for all manner of foods. Wonderful to drink now, or over the next couple of years - and really benefits from plenty of air. Amazing quality/price ratio, and one of the finest bargains on our list.

Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvade Préciouse 2011 Jurançon Sec

Quite a deep, rich gold colour, courtesy of later harvesting than l'Estela (above) and 10 months in a mix of new and used barrels. This really is a spectacularly lovely and considerably complex wine, with such an evocative nose, combining baked apple and peach, lime oil, banoffee pie and brioche aromas, with intense minerality. Subtle hints of cinnamon, clove and fresh figs, together with beautifully-judged oak contribute even more layers of complexity. The palate shows a quite wonderful concentration of all that goes before it on the nose - at the same time fruity, honeyed and rich, yet simply loaded with intense minerality and nervy acidity, whilst a hint of wood and grape tannin adds depth and makes for a rounded, rich and supremely elegant wine. I would lay money on any lover of fine white Burgundy going a bundle on this and wondering why they pay such large sums of money, when they could have this for a fraction of the price. This really is a stunning wine. 14.0% abv. An absolute steal at £12.50.

Domaine de Montesquiou Grappe d'Or 2011 Jurançon
The grapes for this wine are harvested deep into November, by which time they have begun to dry on the vine, concentrating the flavours, whilst retaining all of the bracing acidity which is the hallmark of Petit Manseng. The colour is a very enticing shiny, rich yellow-gold. The nose has everything, from tangy lemon and lime oil, baked apples and apricots, through to figs, toffee, ginger and exotic spices and herbs. And it almost goes without saying that you can smell the minerality. The palate hits you with a mouthful of sweet, rich apricot and peach flavours, with a viscous but never gloopy texture, and all manner of fresh and preserved citrus and tree fruit flavours. And then, milliseconds later, you get that incredible wave of nervy acidity and steely minerality, followed by a warm, spice and ginger hit at the end. Not that anything sticks out, as it all comes together beautifully, in a wine that keeps you coming back for more. And with every sip, it reveals yet more layers of complexity and wonderfulness! This is the 7th vintage of this wine that I have had the pleasure of writing-up, and not one has ever failed to bowl me over. And this one is no different. I don't know that it is actually better than those that preceded it, but it is certainly as good. It really is a quite stunning wine, and one which I could never tire of drinking. 13.0% abv. One of the great bargains of the wine world at just £16.50 - for a whole 75cl bottle, not one of those silly halves!

Domaine de Montesquiou Vendanges Tardives 2010 Jurançon
Read my note on Grappe d'or (above) and then add on another month or so of hang time on the vines and a few more superlatives, and this is what you get. Several more notches up the ripeness scale, this really is a super-concentrated version. Pure 24 carat gold in colour, with a nose that possesses everything that Grappe d'Or has, along with candied fruits of all descriptions and colours, along with notes of toasted almonds, diesel and woodsmoke, basil and oregano. A hint of honey even suggests a touch of botrytis (on both the nose and palate) whilst the acidity is definitely more tangerine and seville orange than the lemon/lime of its sibling, still wonderfully bracing and tangy, but richer and fuller, and with all sorts of apple crumble, honeycomb, raisin and mixed spice things going on. In terms of richness, ripeness and balancing acidity (and simply as a guide, rather than a flavour comparison) I would liken it to a Mosel Trockenbeerenauslese - and at £28 for a full 75cl bottle, it really does provide amazing value for money. Plus of course it will keep for weeks, or even months in the fridge, once opened - if you can resist, that is! A quite extraordinarily lovely wine. 14.0% abv. £27.95.

More shortly...........
                     

It isn't Chardonnay - it is Burgundy

Apologies if all I have done over the last week or so (or even more) is post tasting notes, but that is what I do well (or try to). And although I have some pretty strong views on other wine-related matters (another Simon Baile wine company in administration, cryo-extraction in Baumard's Quarts de Chaume and the related crusades/vendettas by fellow wine bloggers, for instance) I prefer to avoid controversy and concentrate on the positive things - like sharing the sheer joy of drinking good wine, wherever it comes from.

I've heard it said before (and I have also recounted the saying before) that it would matter not which grapes were grown in Burgundy, but more that they were grown in Burgundy. OK, I am paraprhrasing slightly (I can't be bothered to look the source up) but you get the picture. The suggestion being that Burgundy would produce great wines, whatever the grape. I remain firmly of the opinion that this is not true, but I am also firmly of the opinion that there are few, if any, better places on earth to grow Pinot Noir or - in this case - Chardonnay. In my experience, the Jura states a pretty good case for Chardonnay, as on occasion does California (for both Pinot and Chardonnay, but generally at a much higher price). Which is saying something, as even lower-end Burgundy of both persuasions is now generally beyond the pocket of all but the most avid fans. But there are still some relative bargains to be found, especially in some of the "satellite" appellations of the Côte d'Or, or (more appropriately) in the southern end of greater Burgundy, in the Mâconnais and the Côtes Chalonnaise. And here are a couple of excellent examples............

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Genièvrières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

Well, I did say in my previous post that it would be hard to resist broaching the rest of my little stash of wines from this grower, especially as I am going through one of my (ever more regular) phases of preferring white over red. I opened this last night but – as with La Croix 2010 from the same grower - it is currently showing better after 24 hours in the decanter. I am actually writing this at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, which under normal circumstances is definitely too early for me to be drinking wine. But boy did I need a glass, after the day I’ve had, and boy, oh boy, does it do the job! It really is wonderfully lime-scented, again with an array of freshly-cut hay, basil and oregano notes, and with a strong perception of wet stone minerality – for me, such an enticing quality in any wine (whether white or red). And that stony theme continues through onto the palate – a veritable double-whammy of bracing, citrus-tinged acidity and a dry, almost chalky mineral edge, which really does make your tabs laugh and your eyes water. But in a most enjoyable way, for there are plenty of tart Bramley apple and soft citrus fruit flavours, with perhaps the merest hint of something richer, like slightly under-ripe peach or apricot. All of which amounts to a pretty good knife-edge balancing act – with less fruit, the tartness might make the teeth jangle, but any more and it wouldn’t excite the taste buds so much. Flippin’ ‘eck, it is good wine! And long, too. I guess the options are to drink it now (with a good overnight airing or a vigorous shake if consuming the same night) or keep for 2 to 3 years to let it fill out a little. Any more and you would be in the potential “premox” window, although to be fair, I’ve yet to drink a white wine from this grower that has suffered such a fate. I love it. But unfortunately, my glass is now empty - as is the bottle - so what other option do I have, but to open a.................

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Molières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille
This one is quite a different proposition, not only because it is singing from the start, but also because it has a distinctly smoky scent. Not oaky-smoky, or even reductive-smoky, but wood fire-smoky. And with the amount of tree and hedge cuttings (not to mention the odd Euro-pallet or two) that I have to burn on a regular basis, I do love a good fire. In fact, had I not been brought up to know the difference between right and wrong, I could have had a promising career as an arsonist! Anyway, back to the wine. It still has all of the bracing acidity and deep minerality of Les Genièvrières, but feels just a tad richer, with the Bramley apple augmented by a helping of something a touch sweeter, like a tarte tatin with dessert apples, a sprinkling of demerera sugar, a dash of cinnamon and cloves and a dollop of crème fraiche (now I really am beginning to feel hungry). In fact, in its own way, it is just as thrilling as Les Genièvrières and continues to hit all of the right notes - plenty of fruit, plenty of acidity and minerality by the bucket-load. Not to mention a good deal of complexity, for this would undoubtedly be a match for many a Côte d'Or Village wine (or better) from some pretty serious growers. One way or another, I must get some of these wines on my list - and very soon. Can Mâcon wines compete with the (ever more expensive) wines of the Côte d'Or? On this showing, I would say yes. Brilliant wine.

                    
               

A couple more tasty numbers from southern Burgundy

"Try the Beaumont - it is stunning!" So said my friend David Bennett, who has a house in southern Burgundy and was kind enough to bring me back a box of goodies from Domaine Guillot-Broux, on his most recent trip. And so, being an obedient fellow, and knowing that we have a beef stew with garlic and mustard mash for dinner this evening, I decided to broach my bottle as instructed. And I'm glad I did, for it is truly delicious

Domaine Guillot-Broux Beaumont 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

A riot of crushed redcurrants, raspberries, wild strawberries, white pepper, spice and bits of undergrowth, rubbed around the inside of an old leather shoe. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, if you  didn't know better, you might think it was a rather nice Burgundy frrom somewhere high up and cool. Indeed, it does have a cool, herby, almost minty quality and a really quite pronounced minerality to it, along with a rasp of slightly mouth-puckering, rustic tannin. Not to mention a core of acidity that would doubtless take the breath away from those who may be more used to lush, sweet, extracted wines from much warmer climes. Let's be honest, they would dismiss it as tart, thin, rustic and charmless. But not me - it ticks most, if not all of my boxes, and has enough fruit, tannin and acidity to make me crave for something beefy, stewy, garlicy, mustardy and potatoey. So I'm off to eat....................

Later..........

Right, where was I? Oh yes, the 2011 Beaumont! So what can I say? Of course it isn't Pinot - it is Gamay - but I challenge anyone with a half-decent palate not to love it for it's tart red fruit, it's bracing acidity and minerality, it's food-friendly tannins and it's sheer youthful vivacity - and it's striking similarity to a half-decent young Burgundy. Like all of the good things in life, it certainly puts a smile on my face. So there you have it - whether you drink it whilst still youthful, or age it for 15+ years, this wine is an absolute joy!

         

Domaine Guillot-Broux La Croix 2010 Mâcon-Cruzille

This white (Chardonnay) is pretty good too, as it happens. Not particularly elevated or showy, but it does exactly what it says on the tin, which is to provide enjoyable white Burgundy drinking at a very decent price - especially when compared to similar wines from the Côte d'Or. Delightfully apple-scented, with hints of lime/citrus and once again a cool, almost minty quality. Likewise, the palate is cool, fresh, herby, minerally, with gorgeously zingy, citrus and tart apple fruit and enough juicy acidity to revive the most jaded of palates. Apparently, this spends 10 months in oak barrels, but you wouldn't notice it, for it really is as fresh as a daisy - even (as I type) 2 nights after opening. A delightful wine!

At this rate, the other 4 bottles in my box of goodies are not going to last very long!