Showing posts with label Cono Sur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cono Sur. Show all posts

Friday, 17 May 2013

What I've been up to, plus a few interesting recent wines

Oh dear. Looking at the date of my last post, it would appear I have written precisely naff all for over 6 weeks. Not good enough, I know, though the reasons are manifold - with downright laziness being just one of them. To be fair, it has been a strange (and occasionally difficult) few months.

I seem to have spent a good part of my time in hospitals and doctors' surgeries, partly for checks on my own health (thankfully everything seems to be OK again) and partly due to the fact that my Mother has been in hospital on 3 occasions since December, firstly with pneumonia and latterly due to the ongoing after-effects. Seems her heart is a bit weak now, but with a few more trips to the doctor, and an ever-increasing daily coctail of drugs (warfarin next, I believe) she is still alive and kicking. And long may it continue - even at 84, she is certainly not the sort to let it get the better of her. She still lives on her own, in her own house and, whilst we have all been a lot more attentive since her illness, she manages pretty well. That said, I go to see her most days, either to do a few odd jobs or just to keep her company, which (having probably not done so as much as I should have in the past) has been really rewarding for me. Whatever happens, she isn't going to be around forever, so I'm glad it has whipped me into shape now, rather than when it is too late. After all, nothing else in life is as important as the ones we love.

Plenty of other things have been going on in my life, too. Much of March and early April were taken up driving around the country doing wine tastings, whilst May has been spent mostly in the garden - including (to borrow the phrase from Spinal Tap) a bizarre gardening accident, in which I tore some muscles in my side and cracked a rib or two. Of course, I have also been drinking a few decent wines and writing my tasting notes on them as I go along. Indeed, this post has been literally weeks in the pipeline. Problem is, with all the other stuff going on, and the resulting lack of time (not to mention the necessary drive and energy) typing everything up has, until now, simply been a chore too far. Let's face it, I don't earn any money from this blog - I do it for my own enjoyment (and hopefully to help my readers pass a pleasant few minutes!). And believe me, transcribing written notes is just about the most boring job in the world, especially since I am no touch typist! I'm actually considering buying one of those fancy tablets with a stylus pen, which would (if everything I read about them is to be believed) enable me to write on a screen and use an "app" to convert it into a text document. It could transform my dull existence and obviate the need for me to sit at the computer so much. Of course, if any of you have some useful advice on alternatives, please do let me know.

Anyway, for starters, here are my notes on some of the best or most enjoyable wines from the past few weeks (with more to come in future posts)...........


Cono Sur Sparkling Brut NV Bio Bio Valley, Chile
Rich, leesy, lime and lemon aromas and flavours, with a a touch of fresh, sweet apple ripeness, all underpinned by a strong mineral streak. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling all work in perfect harmony, in a bottle that is just in the right place, although I doubt that another year or two more would do it any harm. A lovely friday night aperitif.


This is a wine that really does take time to open out and show its true colours - in this case, my note is written a full week or more after it was first opened. A hugely complex nose of white flowers, violets, mint, herbs de Provence, mixed spices, lime marmalade, old leather and all manner of white fruits (quince, peach, apricot) and even a suggestion of delicate red fruits. It really is a gloriously complex and flavoursome bottle, with myriad fruit and non-fruit flavours, a touch of tannic grip (even for a white wine) and tangy acidity. Add to that a spicy, herby, southern warmth and you have a quite wonderful wine, with real charm. For a wine that has little added sulphur, it is quite remarkable that it should smell and taste so good, more than a week after being opened. I still have a handful of bottles of this left at £12.95, but once they are gone, that's it.

Domaine La Combe Blanche Pinot de l'Enfer 1998 Vin de Pays des Cotes du Brian
For those of you unfamiliar with Guy Vanlancker's wines, Cotes du Brian has nothing to do with a Monty Python film. Brian (basically pronounced "bree-on" - though you may wish to add a bit of French spit for authenticity) is the local river - though doubtless no more than a trickle in summer - which lends its name for the most local VdP denomination. Indeed, "a local name, for local wines"! This (along with a 2001 Tempranillo from the same l'Enfer vineyard that also showed excellently) was a bottle I had been keeping for a tasting of unusual grape varieties from Languedoc that I presented a couple of weeks ago to Nottingham Wine Circle. It showed very well on the night, but once again (a full week after opening) the last glass was a real treat - which is quite amazing for any Pinot Noir, in my experience. The colour is a quite evolved brick/tawny. It has a wonderful aged Pinot character, more in the way of Claifornia in style than (say) New Zealand or Burgundy, but with a good degree of elegance. Lots of forest floor and rotting red/black fruit aromas and flavours, with classy oak and floral nuances, hints of garrigue herbs and white pepper and lots of secondary/tertiary flavours and a welcome touch of volatile acidity. In fact, after a week, it takes on an almost Musar-like quality. A really lovely wine and even mildly surprising - at least for a 15 year-old Languedoc Pinot Noir. Actually, it is (to my nose and palate) really just coming into its prime drinking window. I wish I had a few bottles left. I must ask Guy if he has any tucked away that I could buy!



Finally (for now at least) I thought it would be nice to try a much younger Pinot from the same stable - in this case an unoaked Pinot from the lower slopes near the village of La Liviniere. I must admit that (for me at least, and the above wine notwithstanding) Guy has yet to really "nail" Pinot Noir. In the Languedoc heat, it tends to have a bit too much of everything for its own good - especially alcohol. And yet....... and yet......

This really is rather enjoyable. A pot-pourri of polished wood and leather, damp earth, red cherry, raspberry and bramble, and a whole load of pepper and spice. Even despite the noticeable streak of warming alcohol, it almost seems right for the wine, which (in a curious and totally irrational comparison with Burgundy) is less about the grape than the terroir. A less Burgundian Pinot Noir would be difficult to imagine, but it is full of life and charm and rich with the warmth of the south. And it went beautifully with a barbecued/griddled selection of rump steak, lamb chops and Lincolnshire sausages, with balsamic tomatoes and a pasta salad (remember that nice wether we had last week?). A very yummy wine, which may even get better over the next few years - after all, Guy Vanlancker's wines often reward patience! £10.50 (but only a couple of cases left).
               

Tuesday, 15 May 2012

Some recent wines, including some new additions to my list

TLD and I have been enjoying some pretty nice wines over the last week or so, including some that I have now added to the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines list (if there is a link, you can buy it - if not, then you can't!);

Cono Sur Sparkling Brut NV Bio Bio Valley, Chile
Mostly Chardonnay, with a little Riesling and Pinot Noir, this has an impressively strong mousse, with plenty of fine, long-lasting bubbles. Lovely fresh, floral, lemon and apple aromas, with biscuity notes and a hint of lime oil suggesting a touch of richness. And indeed the palate does deliver some richness, with that lime oil note adding a perception of sweetness to what is essentially a pretty bone-dry wine, though chock full of citrus and tree fruit flavours, loads of mouth-watering acidity and a lingering finish. This is a mightily impressive wine and, having bought 6 bottles from a local supplier (and now drank 2), I was going to go back for more. Unfortunately, they have now sold out......... :-( But I shall enjoy my remaining 4 bottles. 12.0% abv.


Cono Sur Riesling Reserva 2009 Bio Bio Valley, Chile
The freshness and vitality in this wine is evident from the little "sigh" of residual CO2 it gives as you twist the screwcap, releasing a wave of lemon, lime zest and floral aromas and a fair whack of classic Riesling slate and wet stone. The freshness is heightened by a delightful "prickle", evident on both the nose and the palate, with an immediate lime zestiness which fair races across the mouth and almost makes your eyes water. But this wine is anything but simple, for it offers masses of lime/lemon and tart apple flavour and a hint of lime oil richness - and real mineral depth, rather like a really good, almost-dry Alsace Riesling. In fact, I have tasted Alsace Grand Cru's that have given less pleasure than this little beauty. You may be thinking "Cono Sur?! Aren't they a big Chilean producer making (in the main) mass-market wines?" Well think again, for this really is a top-quality example of its kind, produced in one of the coolest and most southerly vineyards in Chile, and clearly ideal for growing this most wonderful of white grapes. The back label says "Enjoy upon purchase", and whilst I do not disagree (for it gives great pleasure now) it gives even greater pleasure on day 2, so I fancy it will evolve nicely over the next 2 or 3 years - perhaps a lot longer, given that it is sealed under screwcap. A brilliant wine - and a complete steal at just £8.50.


Jean-Marie Bouzereau Meursault 2000
This is the second one of three bottles I picked up relatively cheaply a year or two back and the second time it has been bang on the money. Pale gold, watery rim, very bright and limpid. Clean, fresh, slightly lemony aromas, with a touch of apple and loads of mineral/damp earth - high-toned and really very expressive, in a non-Meursault way (by which I mean no overtly oaky, struck-match things going on). It really is very integrated and winey and undoubtedly Burgundy in origin. The palate is super fresh, with not a hint of toffee/oxidation - which is increasingly rare in a 12 year-old white Burgundy, these days - but certainly not lacking in evolution or complexity. Lots of apple pie/cream/cinnamon flavours and again plenty of earthy minerality. It doesn't have any pretensions to anything particularly grand (or even premier!) but it is a mightily enjoyable wine, which partnered some fishcakes and a bit of baked salmon with some home-made mayonnaise very nicely. 13.0% abv.

A mediu-deep cherry red colour. Aromas of cherries, too, of both the black and red varieties, with bramble, damp earth, polished wood and mixed spices - it really is quite heady stuff, when it opens-out. The palate initially seems a little dumb/closed, but emerges after half an hour in the decanter, with flavours of sweet and sour red cherry, soft citrus and bramble. There's a nice layer of rustic tannins, again quite earthy and spicy, with lots of juicy acidity and a touch of agnostura bitters on the finish. A delicious wine, which does everything you want a decent Chianti Classico to do. 13.0% abv. A bargain at £9.95.

Chanson Père et Fils Côte de Beaune-Villages 2007
A light-to-medium ruby red colour, with some darker, more evolved tinges which, along with the nose, suggest this wine has spent at least some time in older oak barrels. Aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry are accompanied by notes of cedar, polished wood, forest floor and a touch of vanilla. The palate too shows a touch of evolution - medium-bodied, with plenty of bright, juicy red fruit flavours, mouth-watering acidity and a gentle tannic grip, giving the wine a nice sweet and sour quality. Offering a nice degree of complexity and evolution, this is lovely to drink right now - what I would call a Burgundy lover's Burgundy. 12.5% abv. How often do you see decent Burgundy at under a tenner, these days? £9.95.

And finally (for now, at least) this real cracker of a wine from my beloved Languedoc.........................

J M & V Alquier Les Bastides d'Alquier 2005 Faugères
Still quite a youthful purple colour, with just a touch of blood/cherry red on the rim. The aromas coming out of the glass are deep, dark and considerably complex, offering a mix of bramble, redcurrant and black cherry fruit, with hints of orange peel, exotic spices, leather, damp earth and eau de vie. 18 months' ageing in oak barrels (30% of which were new) has imparted a subtle oakiness that caresses rather than assaults the senses, making for a totally harmonious and beautifully-scented wine. The palate is awash with the flavours of the south - big, bold red and black fruits, pepper and spice, garrigue herbs, a touch of meatiness and again a hint of damp earthiness. And whilst still quite youthful, the oak and tannins are already nicely integrated and everything is held together by a core of juicy acidity, whilst the finish is long and grippy, with sweet and sour flavours that linger for an age. It is delicious on day one, but spectacularly good on day two. By anyone's standards, this has the hallmark of a very fine wine. And by Faugères standards, it really is the benchmark wine of the appellation. 14.5% abv. £17.95.

News on more (lots more) new wines very soon.................