A couple of "hot year" wines of very different persuasions

It has been a while - around 5 weeks, actually, so happy Christmas and a happy New Year all in one go to all of my readers (if you haven't deserted me)! I guess my New Year resolution ought to be "must be more organised". For although I have been busy on the wine front (Christmas orders, end-of-year sale, etc) and other stuff (Christmas with the family, mother in hospital with pneumonia - thankfully now recovering well), problems with Internet connection and so on, I can't honestly say that I haven't had any opportunities to post on my blog. I've simply been either otherwise engaged or too damn disorganised/lazy to bother. Sometimes, I just think "sod it - life is too short to worry about it too much". Anyway, I'm back, and will hopefully find time to post more regularly in 2013.

For starters, here are my thoughts on a couple of rather interesting wines - both from very hot years - enjoyed over the past week........

Domaine Sainte Rose Barrel Selection Alicante Blend 2003 Vin de Pays d'Oc

Those of you with long memories may remember that I used to import a range of wines from this estate a few years ago. Unfortunately, once the larger retailers discovered them (Majestic and Waitrose, for example) I realised that it would be impossible for me to compete, so I gave up - another grower that I had championed (or at least tried to) only for the big boys to move in. I happened to see the owners, Charles and Ruth Simpson, at the Outsiders tasting in London in November last year. And Charles paid me the great compliment of saying he thought I had a great palate and that I wrote such excellent notes on his (and presumably othr) wines. So when I spotted this lurking under the satairs, having been there for a good few years, since Charles gave it to me, I thought what the hell, let's give it a whirl. And I am so glad I did, because it provided a lovely surprise.

To the eye, it is almost frighteningly dark - opaque purple/blue, almost black, with barely even a perceptible rim. And yet, and yet...... the nose is almost perfumed, crammed full of aromas of raspberry, plum, blackcurrant leaf, wild garrigue herbs and a touch of polished wood. To be honest, if I were smelling/tasting this blind, Iwould swear it was Carignan. There is just the merest hint of meaty/bretty savouriness, countered by notes of elderflower, crystallised fruits and orange and spice-infused pot-pourri. It really is a lovely nose. OK, we are talking 2003 here, so this wine is no shrinking violet (though come to think of it, there is a whiff of violets) and it is still quite tannic - indeed, it could probably do with another 5 to 10 years to really soften. And the sheer depth of fruit, with plenty of underlying acidity to back it up, will ensure that it will certainly last that long - and perhaps much longer. It has wonderful flavour and depth, with an immense core of bitter-sweet black fruit, cherry, garrigue herbs and lapsang tea. It really is a lovely wine, and will no doubt get better and better. I'm somewhat disappointed that I didn't buy a few cases when it was available, because although it would probably have been one of those wines that nobody bought, I would have been happy to keep some for myself. And I don't see any reference to this cuvée on the Sainte Rose website, so I suspect that the vines may even have been ripped out and replaced by more commercially popular vines. Which would be a shame, as Alicante is clearly capable of being made into something rather special.

Maison Louis Latour Aloxe Corton 1976
Mid tawny/brick colour, quite hazy (though I poured it straight from laying down) but still with a vibrant hue. Aromas of wild strawberries, forest floor, orange and leather confirm that this is still very much alive, with some beef gravy and herby notes adding further interest. OK, so it isn't exactly youthful, but there is still more than a semblance of fruit on the palate - cherry and strawberry, veering towards cranberry and citrus - making for a distinctly aged but still vinous wine. And though from another hot year, there is no sign of baked fruit or rustic tannin - indeed, it is nicely soft, with mouth-watering acidity and a gentle spiciness. I doubt that it would have been elegant, even in its prime, but I have had many worse Burgundy experiences, for a lot more money. So at around £7 per bottle (at auction) this provides remarkable value for money. After all, it isn't every day that one gets to enjoy decent 37 year-old Burgundy for the price of an everyday wine.

That's it for now - more soon (I promise)!
      

Quenching my thirst for white wines - a trio from Languedoc, plus a Portugese that goes up to eleven!

Sometime over the next couple of days - once I've had time to organise my notes into something resembling cohesive - I'll tell you about a truly fascinating tasting of Carignan-based (and in most cases, 100% Carignan) wines from France, Sardinia and California. Meanwhile, I'll give you the low-down on some more delicious whites that have passed my lips in the last few days, beginning with a trio from Domaine Sainte Rose.

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Coquille d'Oc White 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue

This is an estate that many of my customers will know very well, since I used to stock a few of their wines - and would certainly consider doing so in the future. Whilst I didn't care for the estate's entry-level red, its white partner was a different matter altogether. The nose is a riot of citrus and stone fruits, along with a distinct grapiness, courtesy of a proportion of Muscat in the blend, and some nice floral and herbaceous aromas. Although a somewhat unusual mix of grape varieties (Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier and Muscat) it works really well - and does in fact display many of the characteristics of its constituent parts. And although not complex, neither is it a simple quaffer, with juicy summer fruit and zesty citrus flavours accompanied by some intriguing savoury, spicy and herby nuances, and even a touch of salinity. A really well-made wine, which puts most other generic Languedoc blends in the shade.

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Sirocco Chardonnay 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue

Aromas of peach, citrus and ripe Granny Smith apple, with a touch of leesy richness. The palate too is quite rich and ripe, but stops short of being tropical or new world in style. Indeed, it also possesses a florality and herbaceousness redolent of Sauvignon, with citrus and apple flavours complemented by grassy, herby, minerally and leesy nuances. Actually, as I type, I am noticing some of the same phrases and descriptors as the above wine, which is perhaps an indicator of both the terroir and the house style (i.e. good winemaking). And as a matter of fact, the inherent richness in this wine is nicely offset by some mouth-watering acidity, in a wine which remains focused, all the way to a long, dry finish.

Domaine Sainte Rose Barrel Selection Roussanne 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue
This has some quite complex fruit and floral aromas, suggesting orange, apricot, peach and honeysuckle, with subtle notes of garrigue herbs, minerals and nicely-judged oak. The palate is quite rich and mouth-filling, with those lovely soft citrus and stone fruit and floral elements combining nicely with some quite distinct herby, spicy notes. Again, there's a nice background of toasty oak vanillin, but it works in harmony with, rather than against the fruit. And the result is a rich, warming, spicy, yet really rather elegant and complex wine, with impressive length. And although lovely to drink now, it should evolve nicely for a year or two at least - and maybe up to 5 (or more).

Esporão Branco Reserva 2009 Alentejo, Portugal

This is a wine sent to me as part of a generous (and particularly interesting) mixed dozen, by Stewart Travers at Cambridge Wine Merchants. Although my experience of Portugese white wines has until recently been fairly limited, I've tasted enough to know that there are some great vinous treasures (including countless obscure, indiginous grape varieties) to be had from this country - and this is a particularly fine example. A little research tells me that it is made from a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro. No - I've never heard of any of them either! Although it has clearly seen some oak barrel ageing, the effect is entirely beneficial and harmonious. The nose is a glorious combination of flowers and fruit - honeysuckle and orange blossom, peach, apricot and soft citrus - whilst the palate is a lesson in how to combine richness, restrained power and elegance. At 14.5%, this is no shrinking violet, and there is undoubtedly a warmth to it, in a sort of southern Rhone way. But if only more southern Rhone whites had this level of freshness and vitality to go with that warmth. There's a touch of grape tannin in there (and of course some wood tannin) but there is nary a hint of pithiness or bitterness, whilst the rich, almost sweet fruit is balanced by a healthy level of acidity. It is a heady wine, and the volume definitely "goes up to eleven", but it really is deliciously drinkable. Lovely stuff!
     

December so far - snow, more snow, new wines, plus some lovely sample bottles

As usual, I can't believe it is over a week since I posted a blog entry. Time flies when you have a million-and-one things to do, but there's no let-up, when there are umpteen new wines to deal with - and just as many sample bottles to get through!

December is always hectic, but the unusually early (and unusually long) bout of wintry weather we have endured over the past couple of weeks have made things that bit more difficult. Although the bulk of my wines are stored in bond, I have to keep sufficient stocks of all of them at my store in Nottingham, to enable me to quickly fulfil orders as they come in. Which means regular 80-mile round trips up the M1 to Rotherham - hardly ideal, but Rotherham just happens to be the nearest and most convenient bonded warehouse to me. And two separate deliveries of new wines (from no less than five growers) in the past couple of weeks has meant two trips in less than ideal conditions. On the first occasion, I left dry, sunny Nottingham and arrived at Rotherham to find 6 inches of lying snow. By the time I got back home, a good 4 inches had been dumped on us, and traffic was beginning to grind to a halt. By the second time, a week later, Rotherham was almost literally knee-deep in snow, although the motorway was fairly clear - until I found the M18 blocked for my return trip, which meant going the long way, down the A1 to Worksop, then cross-country via the A614. Which would have been a real pain, were it not for some rather alluring winter landscapes along the way...........

Still, I managed once again to get home in one piece, although by that time, the view from the dining room window was this......

Even so, we actually managed to get to our monthly wine evening in Nottingham, the same evening, courtesy of the NET (tram), which clearly needs more than almost a foot of snow to put it out of action!

So what of the wines? Well, I've already posted notes on a few of them, and all the new stuff is now up on my website. And if you are on my mailing list, you'll hear all about them tomorrow or Tuesday. But I've also been enjoying (and in the odd case, not enjoying) a good few sample bottles over the last couple of weeks, so here are my notes on some good ones, from two growers whose wines once featured heavily on my list - and will almost certainly do so again, in the near future.

Les Vignes de l'Arque Vin de Pays Duché d'Uzes Blanc 2009

A blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Lemon and flowers on the nose, with notes of oregano, fennel, nettles and cut grass. The palate is medium-to-full bodied, with fresh, zesty lemon, orange, stone fruit and spiced apple flavours, countered by those herby nuances, with a liquorice and orange peel richness to the finish. With air, everything melds together into a rather lovely, refreshing, yet mouth-filling wine. It isn't hugely complex, but it is far from a simple quaffer. In fact, it bears comparison with a good many lofty white Rhones I've had. Nice wine. Projected selling price - £8.75.

Les Vignes de l'Arque Merlot 2009 Vin de Pays d'Oc

A clear, bright, ruby red colour, with a nose of blackcurrant, plum and tobacco, with hints of coal tar and orange peel. The palate is mellow and full of fruit - black cherry and cassis - with good acidity and a nice tannic structure - not too soft, but not too hard. I'm not the biggest fan of Merlot, but this is a really well-made wine, which gives me far more pleasure than either cheap Claret or soupy new-world Merlot. Projected selling price - £7.95.

Domaine Sainte-Rose Le Mistral Merlot 2008 Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue

This has a nose of plum and cherry, mixed spice, garrigue herbs and cigar box, the result of some well-judged oak - and if (as the ex-cellars price suggests) it has been "chipped", it is very well done. The palate has a medium concentration of plum and cherry fruit, with good balance between tannin and orangey acidity. The fruit seems quite young (perhaps from young vines?) and fairly light-bodied, but is actually quite elegant and refreshing, and almost "Italian", in its sweet/sour/savoury style. Another rather enjoyable Merlot. Having said that, I probably only really want one southern French Merlot for my list, and the Vignes de l'Arque version will probably win the day, on the basis of a truly excellent quality/price ratio.

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Pinacle Syrah 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue

The label says 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier, co-fermented then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (although I'd swear there is a whiff of American oak). The colour is opaque purple, with the tiniest ruby rim, whilst the nose is intense and expressive, with quite a marked oak influence. But it is the sort of oak that is beautifully fragrant, without masking the delightful aromas of bramble, blueberry and orange fruit. There's a hint of florality to it as well - not your typical northern Rhone lilies, but perhaps violets and spring flowers. There's also an intriguing note of butterscotch (no doubt from the oak) and a touch of meatiness. The palate is less dense and oaky than one might expect (and with a respectable - and believeable - 13.5% abv). I suspect the grapes might have been picked relatively early, in order to preserve the freshness and ph in the finished wine. And it seems to have worked a treat. There's plenty of black fruit, with bramble, a touch of blackcurrant, a hint of orange, gentle coffe/mocha oak, a smidgen of dark chocolate and a dusting of herby/savouriness. Superficially, it is quite a glossy wine, but delve beneath that slightly modern veneer and it feels very together, very integrated and really rather complex. It isn't Cote Rotie, but it does a very good impression of some of the better northern Rhone Vins de Pays and "lesser" appellation wines. Indeed, it is probably rather unfair to pronounce on this wine at such a young age, and I feel it could evolve into something quite special, with a few more years in bottle. At a projected price of around £18, though, it wouldn't be cheap. I also feel that the minimalist (and rather dark) label doesn't really do justice to what is in the bottle - I really believe that such a lovely wine calls for a much more demonstrative (i.e. traditional) label!

The wines of Les Vignes de l'Arque were amongst the very first wines I ever imported and the first vintage of the Vin de Pays Duché d'Uzes Rouge that I sold was the amazing 2001. In fact, over subsequent vintages, it was a consistently brilliant performer, and one which I was confident enough to buy without actually tasting. Until the 2006 vintage, that is, when the style changed completely. Apparently, they started using young vine fruit for this, their flagship red cuvée, and I was left with a good few cases of rather thin, weedy wine on my hands, which I ended up selling-off very cheaply. That, along with a failure to send me some promised samples, whilst on holiday in a different part of France a couple of years ago, meant that Les Vignes de l'Arque eventually disappeared from my list altogether. So it was with some trepidation that I contacted winemakers Arnaud and Patrick Fabre recently, to say hello and ask how their wines were fairing. Arnaud emailed me back very quickly and seemed genuinely pleased to hear from me - and also seemed only too pleased to send me some samples. These duly arrived (no less than 8 different cuvées) a couple of weeks ago, and the first couple of bottles (see above) were as good as ever. But the one that I wanted to taste most of all was this one - had they seen the error of their ways and reverted to the old tried and tested formula........?

Les Vignes de l'Arque Vin de Pays Duché d'Uzes Rouge 2009

Well, all I can say is a resounding yes! The nose is fabulous - a riot of bramble and plum skin and a hint of blackcurrant, with further notes of orange peel, soft spices, tobacco, oak vanillin and meat/leather. It manages to be both fruit-filled, primary and complex at the same time. The palate is simply crammed full of ripe, sun-drenched black and red fruits, with rich, chocolatey tannins and ample acidity. And the 14.8% abv doesn't make it in the slightest bit hot - just rich, ripe, orange-tinged fruit, spice, a touch of savoury and immense concentration. It may need a year or two more in bottle to really get into its stride, but it is gloriously drinkable already (and gets better and better after a day or two in the decanter). This is a brilliant wine, and easily as good as any previous vintage I have tasted - and I'm thrilled to bits to have reacquainted myself with it! And at a projected retail price of around £10, it will be one of the best bargains on my list - once I can get some shipped over in the New Year.