A delicious white Burgundy and a delectable Cornas

There's a particularly vociferous Burgundy nut on one of the wine discussion boards that I frequent who contends that fruit is not something he particularly looks for (or even wants) in his aged Burgundies. Whilst I still demand some semblance of fruit in my red Burgundies (in fact, red anything - whether aged or not) I can sort of see where he is coming from, as far as the whites are concerned. Some may think that my over-use of fruit descriptors in tasting notes is an easy option - and I'd be the first to admit that my notes tend to have a uniformity of "style", relying quite heavily on fruit/flavour commentary, although I do very occasionally find myself drifting towards the poetic (or some may say pretentious)! But using fruit (which in wine normally means anything but grapes) to describe the flavours is, to my mind, one of the best ways of conveying the feel and style of a wine to the reader. That said - and for all it's many different guises - Chardonnay may well be the least "fruity" and most difficult to describe of all the grape varieties. Depending on where it comes from, you may get hints of apple, lemon, stone fruits, tropical fruits, whatever. But it is usually all about the flowery, minerally, earthy, fruit-in-a-non-fruit sort of way. Good Chardonay smells and tastes of Chardonnay - and good white Burgundy smells of white Burgundy - whatever that is. Here's a case in point, with my latest bottle of........

Domaine Michel Juillot Clos des Barraults 1999 Mercurey 1er CruI seem to remember that my previous bottle of this was a little kess evolved than this one, but that's bottle variation for you - and this is actually just as enjoyable. The only perceptible fruit remaining is baked apple, cut through with a bit of lemon juice - quite rich, but with a definte citrus tang. At almost 12 years of age, it may just be starting to tire a little, with some gentle oxidative notes, which I actually find attractive in aged white Burgundy. But it still shows plenty of Chardonnay (or should I say Burgundy) character, with fruit, minerality, terroir and some nicely integrated oak working in complete harmony. There's a hint of toffee apple (again, a sign that it is fading a bit) but that lovely lemony acidity keeps it fresh. There's also an interesting note of fresh root ginger - lightly spicy, in a cool climate sort of way. Mercurey isn't a grand appellation (it's in the Chalonnaise, some way to the south of the Cote d'Or) but this one certainly stands comparison to a good village Meursault. Lovely wine - who needs fruit?!

I actually have quite a backlog of notes from some really excellent tastings and dinners enjoyed recently. Not that I plan to write them all up, of course (that would be very boring) but I certainly plan to tell you about some of the better ones, when I have a little more time. Meanwhile, here's a particularly fine Northern Rhone for starters;

Thierry Allemand Chaillot 1998 Cornas

Still quite deep in colour with just a tiny pink-ish rim. The nose is a glorious expression of pure, traditional Northern Rhone Syrah - blackberry, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit aromas, mingled with lily of the valley and forest floor. There's a nice touch of savoury smoked bacon, beef stock and sun-dried tomato, but just enough to complement rather than smother the fruit, and what oak there is (or was) is now beautifully integrated. The palate too is traditional - a model of elegance and restraint - which is just how I like my wines. Again, there's plenty of fruit, some savouriness, and perhaps even a hint of rusticity, but there's a lightness of touch that makes it a real joy to drink, with present (but softening) tannins and the most wonderfully mouth-watering acidity. A Cornas for Burgundy lovers.

    

Two lovely white wines for a lazy Friday evening - Alsace and Burgundy

After suffering with some sort of throat infection last week, it now seems like open season for whatever virus is going around to attack me - and I now have the beginnings of a common or garden cold. I'm sneezing, have a tickly nose and a bit of a thick head. So I'm using that as an excuse to get through some sample bottles whilst I still have the wherewithal, since my olfactory senses are probably going to be somewhat impeded for the next few days. So, following on from last night's white Burgundy, here are my notes on a couple more delicious white wines - one of which I've just added to my list, and another which will be appearing very shortly.

F E Trimbach Riesling Réserve 2005 Alsace

The colour is bright gold/green, and it has delicious aromas of lime oil, orange zest, wet stone, crushed nettles and mixed herbs. Not to mention, of course, a healthy dose of classic aged Riesling petrol - a gloriously inviting nose! The palate is medium-bodied, tightly-structured and bone-dry, with flavours of peaches and fresh limes. It is beautifully pure and focused, with fabulously mouth-watering acidity, which carries the fruit all the way to a long, citrussy, mineral-laden and herb-tinged finish. At 5 years of age, this wine is absolutely singing right now, but it may get even better over the next 5 or more years. Indeed, it should last for at least 10 years before it begins to fade. Although it would be a shame not to pair it with some spicy Asian food (or even a simple roasted chicken with a lemon or two stuffed in the cavity) I have thoroughly enjoyed a glass or two on its own, whilst writing this tasting note. Since my wife isn't feeling too hungry this evening, I am about to pair it with the remains of last night's spicy/coconutty lamb curry, which will be nice. It is a cracking wine - and, for a semi-mature wine from a top grower, in a great Alsace vintage, a bit of a bargain too. It is now on my list at £13.95, but if you want some, you'd better hurry, as I have less than 3 cases to sell.

Chateau Génot-Boulanger Les Bacs 2008 Mercurey

A pale, limpid gold/straw colour. The nose is a riot of citrus fruits, grated zest and tree fruits, with a strong impression of slate/stone. It is so packed with fruit and mineral nuances, it almost makes the nose prickle. The palate is racy and, like the nose, crammed full of lemon and lime flavours, juicy apples and spice. The flavours are ripe and full, but once again, there is a taut, steely streak of minerality and a core of mouth-watering acidity which keeps you coming back for more. To be honest, if I were tasting this wine blind, its structure and sheer elegance might fool me into thinking I was drinking a wine from the Cote d'Or, rather than the Chalonnaise - it really is that good. This will retail for around £13.50 - again, a bit of a bargain.