A couple of white wines enjoyed over the weekend. Plus, plenty of hot air in Saint Gengoux.....

Our recent trip to Burgundy almost seems like a distant memory now, although it is actually only 6 days since we returned. Nevertheless, I still have plenty of notes from the trip to write-up, which I hope to get around to over the next few days - watch this space. Meanwhile, here are my notes on a couple of lovely white wines enjoyed over this (rather glorious) early Spring weekend.

Domaine Gayda Cuvée Occitane Blanc 2008 Vin de Pays d'Oc

This is a blend of 48% Grenache Blanc, 28% Marsanne, 16% Roussanne and 8% Viognier, sourced (as often seems to be the case with this grower) from various different parts of Languedoc and Roussillon. This one is predominantly from the Fennouilledes area of Roussillon, with some of the Marsanne coming from the Minervois sub-region of La Liviniere. It's an interesting concept (and one which Australia has pioneered for a long time) and if the wines are this good, who cares if it lacks a "single" regional identity? As I write, the bottle has actually been open for 2 days, and the wine seems all the better for it. When first opened, it had a delightful floral aroma, with notes of spring blossom and honeysuckle, but those aromas carried through to the palate in a way that was a bit too intense for my personal liking (although TLD loved it). However, 2 days later and it is really singing. There's still a hint of flowers, but also some nicely-integrated (and quite subtle, quite smoky) oak, and hints of peach and lemon zest, but with plenty of secondary/non fruity, though beautifully "winey" notes. The palate has also really settled into its stride, with gentle peach and lemon fruit flavours, a hint of earthiness and again, beautifully integrated oak (older oak, I would imagine). It also offers a delightfully tangy streak of stony minerality, making for a wine which actually possesses a good deal of complexity - it just takes a day or two in the fridge (or a year or two more in bottle, perhaps) to really show its class. As with many of Languedoc's (or in this case Roussillon's) classier oak-matured whites, this isn't too far removed from the old-style Riojas I enjoy so much. All-in-all, this is a really promising wine, which is lovely to drink now, but which may well turn into something even more interesting with 3 to 5 years more in bottle. It really is very yummy indeed, which makes me look forward even more to visiting this estate in a couple of months' time. Meanwhile, you can buy it at Cambridge Wines for £12.69.

Esporao Duas Castas 2010 Alentejo

A blend of Gouveio (a new one on me) and Verdelho, vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks for a short time on the lees. This is less serious than the Branco Reserva 2009 from the same grower that I reviewed in January, but a tasty wine nonetheless. Aromas of apples, lemons and almonds (as suggested on the Cambridge Wines website), with a hint - though not too much - of peardrops, a touch of florality and a subtle herbaceousness - a sort of halfway house between a southern Rhone blend and a Loire Sauvignon. The flavours are also dominated by apples, pears and lemons, with mouth-watering acidity to match, but a touch of depth and richness that lifts it above the merely simple. Although not particularly to my taste, it is another beautifully-made wine, which would be a lovely match for light fish dishes or even mackerel pate with a salad and vinaigrette. £9.99 at Cambridge Wines.

More on the Burgundy trip (and some really lovely wines) over the next couple of days, but for now, here are a couple of photos of a hot air balloon which drifted very low of Saint Gengoux Le Nacional last Sunday evening. My new friend the Reverend Michael Thompson (David Bennett's neighbour in Saint Gengoux) has been asking me to post these since last week! The second photo shows just how low - I hope the occupants made it back to terra firma safely - and I hope you like the photos, Father Michael!

Hot air balloon over Saint Gengoux

                 Hot air balloon just about in Saint Gengoux!

                  

Quenching my thirst for white wines - a trio from Languedoc, plus a Portugese that goes up to eleven!

Sometime over the next couple of days - once I've had time to organise my notes into something resembling cohesive - I'll tell you about a truly fascinating tasting of Carignan-based (and in most cases, 100% Carignan) wines from France, Sardinia and California. Meanwhile, I'll give you the low-down on some more delicious whites that have passed my lips in the last few days, beginning with a trio from Domaine Sainte Rose.

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Coquille d'Oc White 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue

This is an estate that many of my customers will know very well, since I used to stock a few of their wines - and would certainly consider doing so in the future. Whilst I didn't care for the estate's entry-level red, its white partner was a different matter altogether. The nose is a riot of citrus and stone fruits, along with a distinct grapiness, courtesy of a proportion of Muscat in the blend, and some nice floral and herbaceous aromas. Although a somewhat unusual mix of grape varieties (Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier and Muscat) it works really well - and does in fact display many of the characteristics of its constituent parts. And although not complex, neither is it a simple quaffer, with juicy summer fruit and zesty citrus flavours accompanied by some intriguing savoury, spicy and herby nuances, and even a touch of salinity. A really well-made wine, which puts most other generic Languedoc blends in the shade.

Domaine Sainte Rose Le Sirocco Chardonnay 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue

Aromas of peach, citrus and ripe Granny Smith apple, with a touch of leesy richness. The palate too is quite rich and ripe, but stops short of being tropical or new world in style. Indeed, it also possesses a florality and herbaceousness redolent of Sauvignon, with citrus and apple flavours complemented by grassy, herby, minerally and leesy nuances. Actually, as I type, I am noticing some of the same phrases and descriptors as the above wine, which is perhaps an indicator of both the terroir and the house style (i.e. good winemaking). And as a matter of fact, the inherent richness in this wine is nicely offset by some mouth-watering acidity, in a wine which remains focused, all the way to a long, dry finish.

Domaine Sainte Rose Barrel Selection Roussanne 2009 IGP Cotes de Thongue
This has some quite complex fruit and floral aromas, suggesting orange, apricot, peach and honeysuckle, with subtle notes of garrigue herbs, minerals and nicely-judged oak. The palate is quite rich and mouth-filling, with those lovely soft citrus and stone fruit and floral elements combining nicely with some quite distinct herby, spicy notes. Again, there's a nice background of toasty oak vanillin, but it works in harmony with, rather than against the fruit. And the result is a rich, warming, spicy, yet really rather elegant and complex wine, with impressive length. And although lovely to drink now, it should evolve nicely for a year or two at least - and maybe up to 5 (or more).

Esporão Branco Reserva 2009 Alentejo, Portugal

This is a wine sent to me as part of a generous (and particularly interesting) mixed dozen, by Stewart Travers at Cambridge Wine Merchants. Although my experience of Portugese white wines has until recently been fairly limited, I've tasted enough to know that there are some great vinous treasures (including countless obscure, indiginous grape varieties) to be had from this country - and this is a particularly fine example. A little research tells me that it is made from a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro. No - I've never heard of any of them either! Although it has clearly seen some oak barrel ageing, the effect is entirely beneficial and harmonious. The nose is a glorious combination of flowers and fruit - honeysuckle and orange blossom, peach, apricot and soft citrus - whilst the palate is a lesson in how to combine richness, restrained power and elegance. At 14.5%, this is no shrinking violet, and there is undoubtedly a warmth to it, in a sort of southern Rhone way. But if only more southern Rhone whites had this level of freshness and vitality to go with that warmth. There's a touch of grape tannin in there (and of course some wood tannin) but there is nary a hint of pithiness or bitterness, whilst the rich, almost sweet fruit is balanced by a healthy level of acidity. It is a heady wine, and the volume definitely "goes up to eleven", but it really is deliciously drinkable. Lovely stuff!