A visit to Domaine Guillot-Broux - and finally, the wines are here!

The wines of Domaine Guillot-Broux are not entirely new to the Leon Stolarski Fine Wines list, since we featured a couple of cuvées a few years back, at the time they were (rather inexplicably) dropped by their UK agent, who bin-ended the remainder of their supplies. In fact, our introduction to these lovely wines came even earlier, courtesy of our friend David Bennett, who has a second home in southern Burgundy and has been a regular visitor to the Guillot-Broux estate, situated less than half an hour's drive away in the village of Cruzille-en-Mâconnais.

We first visited more than 2 years ago (although TLD had a migraine, so she slept in the car!). Our latest visit was in June 2013, when we were treated to an extensive tasting of wines from both bottle and barrel. As if I needed confirmation, after all of my previous positive experiences of the wines, the quality across the board was of a level which compared very favourably with so many other more esteemed (and considerably more expensive) growers in the Côte d'Or. I have written several times before about various Guillot-Broux wines, notably a few of the 2011's and 2010's, not to mention several bottles of a wonderful 1996 Gamay (see - it really is age-worthy stuff)! Below I have reproduced the tasting notes from my website on the new wines that have finally found their way onto our list. But first of all, here's a little history on the estate and some technical details................

The Guillot family have been making wines in Cruzille since 1954, when the current owners' grandparents, Pierre and Jeannine Guillot, started the first organic vineyard in Burgundy. Their son, Jean-Gérard, spent some years working on the family vineyard, before working for several years with Domaine de la Chanal in Brouilly and Bernard Michelot in Meursault. In 1978, Jean-Gérard returned to Cruzille, where he established Domaine Guillot-Broux with his wife Jacqueline, starting out with little more than a hectare of vines. By 1991 the estate had expanded to include further vineyards, and had also been granted official organic certification. During this time, Jean-Gérard's sons Ludovic and Patrice began working for the estate. Another son, Emmanuel (whose previous experience included 2 years as head sommelier at the St. James's Club in London) returned to the estate in 2000 and, following the death of Jean-Gérard in 2008, Emmanuel took over the reins as head winemaker. The estate now comprises around 15 hectares, with a number of small vineyards in the Mâconnais villages of Cruzille, Grevilly, Pierreclos and Chardonnay (which some say is the origin of the Chardonnay grape variety).

Tasting from barrel with Emmauel Guillot

The terrain of the Mâconnais region (and hence - to an extent - the terroir) differs somewhat from that of the Côte d'Or, with gently rolling countryside interspersed with numerous small hills and forests, rocky outcrops and valleys. Much of the region is given over to arable and livestock farming, yet is also widely interspersed with numerous vineyards. Mâcon and Mâcon-Villages are the basic appellations, whilst various villages which tend to make wines higher up the quality scale are permitted to append their name - hence Mâcon-Cruzille, Mâcon-Chardonnay, Mâcon-Pierreclos, etc. Despite this (all too typically) complicated hierarchy, the aforementioned appellations strangely apply only to Chardonnay and Gamay. Therefore, despite the fact that there are now some pretty impressive Pinot Noirs being made in the region, they can still only be labelled as humble Bougogne Rouge - even though, from the right terroir and in the hands of quality vignerons, they can be a match for their more esteemed Côte d'Or cousins.

Most of the vineyards of the Guillot-Broux estate are situated on east-facing slopes on clay-limestone soil, except for the 60-90 year-old Gamay vines in Pierreclos, which are planted on granite soil with a south-facing aspect. The nature of the soil in Cruzille particularly brings out mineral flavours, and produces wines which need a relatively long time to mature. Grevilly (in 2005, Mâcon Grévilly become Mâcon Cruzille) and Chardonnay produce fruitier wines that can be appreciated when young or can be kept for several years to develop greater complexity. The different characteristics of these varied terroirs and the wines they produce are reinforced by the Guillot's methods of cultivation - they only use natural methods of fighting parasites and disease, using a combination of ploughing, organic fertilisers (to feed the soil and not the vines), and organically-acceptable mineral sprays (copper and sulphites). They believe that respecting the soil in this way allows the vines to absorb all the elements they need to be healthy and balanced, thus producing healthy, balanced wines. In other words, to maintain the right balance rather than treat the consequences. Indeed, as well as being the oldest organic grower in Burgundy, the estate is essentially farmed (though not certified) according to biodynamic principles. 

Although the vines are, generally speaking, planted at a density of 8,000 to 9,000 per hectare, yields are still low, at between 30 and 55 hectolitres a hectare, with the emphasis on quality rather than quantity. This dense planting regime increases competition between the vines, making for naturally low yields and increased concentration of flavours and balance in the wines. All of the grapes are hand-picked, and then sorted in the vines before going to the winery. 

The grapes from the various plots and grape varieties are vinified differently, depending on the type of terroir, the vintage and the age of the vines. Fermentation is completed without the addition of cultured yeasts, whilst the use of SO2 and chaptalisation are kept to a strict minimum. The Chardonnay grapes are pressed immediately and the juice is put straight into 225 litre oak barrels, where both the first (alcoholic) and second (malolactic) fermentations take place. After malolactic fermentation, the wines are racked and either put back into barrels (single vineyard wines) or into vats (Mâcon Villages). The top cuvées then spend a second winter in barrels before being bottled, without fining or filtration. The Gamay grapes are put into small vats (50hl) without being de-stemmed. They are macerated and fermented on the skins, before being pressed 6 to 30 days later, depending on the vintage. During this time, the grapes are trod by foot or by using a long plunger once or twice a day. The Pinot Noir grapes are de-stemmed before undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation for a minimum of 15 days. After being pressed, the wines are matured for between 11 and 18 months in barrel, and then bottled without fining. The wines are only gently filtered, if necessary, or in many cases not at all. 

Les Genièvrières 2012 Mâcon-Cruzille

This parcel of land had been one of the best in the Mâconnais at the beginning of the 19th century, but was left out of the reclassification for vine-growing land in 1935. Uncultivated since the phylloxera epidemic, it was re-planted in 1983. 

A bright mid-gold/straw colour, leading to a pale rim. Wonderfully lime-scented, with an array of freshly-cut hay, basil and oregano notes, not to mention a strong perception of wet stone minerality. And that stony theme continues through onto the palate – a veritable double-whammy of bracing, citrus-tinged acidity and a dry, almost chalky mineral edge, which really does make your tabs laugh and your eyes water, in a most enjoyable way. There are plenty of tart Bramley apple and soft citrus fruit flavours, with perhaps the merest hint of something richer, like slightly under-ripe peach or apricot. All of which amounts to a pretty good knife-edge balancing act – with less fruit, the tartness might make the teeth jangle, but any more and it wouldn’t excite the taste buds so much. My goodness, this is lovely wine - and long, too! (£17.95) 

Les Combettes 2012 Mâcon-Chardonnay 

Despite the fact that the vineyards of Les Combettes and Les Genièvrières are contiguous, the two wines produced are dramatically different. Les Combettes is close in spirit to a wine from the Côte d'Or - woody, rich and full-bodied. 

A bright gold/straw colour, leading to a pale rim. Delightfully expressive, high-toned and almost prickly on the nose, with gloriously intense lime oil and fresh apple aromas, buttered toast and hints of peach and apricot. So wonderfully intense and flavoursome on the palate too, with bucket-loads of fruit and minerality, utterly mouth-watering acidity and a gentle herbiness. This really is the business - Côte d'Or quality at a much more sensible Mâcon price. A real stunner of a wine, to drink now, or to age for a few years. (£18.50) 

Les Perrières 2012 Mâcon-Cruzille 

The terroir of the Perrières vineyard consists of Oolitic limestone, in layers of limestone slabs and a thin soil cover (20 - 40 cm). It is porous, making for good drainage, but at the same time very fragile and difficult to work, and was abandoned after the phylloxera epidemic for these very reasons. Comprising just 1.1 hectares, it was re-planted in 1978, with a density of 9,000 vines per hectare. Yields are between 35 and 35 hl/ha. 

The wine is aged for 18 months in second or third generation oak barrels without either fining or filtering. The nose is simply gorgeous - all prickly and zingy, scented with the oil of freshly-cut limes, hay, nettles and massive minerality. Not that it lacks in the way of fruit, though - spiced apple, dried orange and soused sultana aromas abound, in a wine of tremendous complexity and verve. All of which carries through onto the palate - and then some! You can spend an eternity picking out myriad flavours and nuances, whilst simply enjoying such a delicious, structured and compelling wine. It grips and caresses at the same time, with tremendous depth and concentration of complex, herb-tinged fruit and stony minerality, wrapped around a backbone of positively eye-watering acidity. Long, complex and utterly lovely, this is undoubtedly a wine to match many a Côtes de Nuits 1er Cru. (£19.99) 

Mâcon-Pierreclos 2012 

From Gamay vines of between 60 and 90 years of age, grown on granitic soil in the village of Pierreclos. The translucent ruby colour and tremendously fragrant nose scores very highly on the come-hither scale. Cherry and redcurrant aromas abound, with subtle hints of spiced rhubarb, violets, new leather and damp earth, and perhaps a suggestion of fresh root ginger. The palate is delightfully fresh and invigorating, with a mouth-watering core of citrussy acidity and just the right amount of tannic grip to accompany the vibrant, tangy, spicy red fruit. Whilst superficially light and airy, it doesn't take too much scratching beneath the surface to reveal extra layers of complexity and flavour, which raise it to another level. It may be Gamay, but it is quite different to Beaujolais. Rather, it has a grace and elegance one might normally encounter in a light, vibrant young Pinot. A wonderful expression of the Gamay grape. (£15.95) 

La Myotte 2012 Bourgogne 

The estate's top red, from an old, low-yielding vineyard on a mix of marl and limestone, comprising just 0.65 of a hectare, which was re-planted in 1956, with cuttings from Pinot Noir vines from the Cote de Beaune. With a planting density of 8,000 vines per hectare, the average yield is just 30 hl/ha - or just over half a bottle per vine! 

A beautiful, bright, translucent cherry/carmine red colour, with a complex, perfumed nose, combining red summer fruits, white pepper and spice, with subtle woody and earthy notes. A good swirl and a few minutes' air reveals yet more complexity, with hints of redcurrant, old leather and woodsmoke. If it sounds elegant, that's because it is - and the palate certainly lives up to the promise of the nose, caressing the tongue with waves of tangy cherry and redcurrant fruit nuances, not to mention something almost floral, like violets and fruit blossom, with a hint of fine white pepper for good measure. It simply exudes elegance, in an almost feminine way, embracing rather than squeezing, as do the tannins, which are fine and gently grippy, whilst the most gloriously juicy acidity carries the flavours all the way through to a long, lingering finish. At the risk of labouring the point, this really is *proper* red Burgundy. Is it worth 24 quid? Definitely. (£23.95)

Having harboured a desire to import from Guillot-Broux for several years (with so many growers in Languedoc and Roussillon to juggle, there never quite seemed to be an ideal opportunity) I could resist no longer. For these wines are simply too good not to be available in the UK, providing as they do (in comparison with more exalted estates to the north, in the Côte d'Or) a genuine source of 1er Cru-standard wines at Village wine prices. Oh, and the Gamays are pretty darned good, too!

                                           

Another delicious red Burgundy

No matter how good a Pinot Noir from the Mâconnais happens to be, the French A.O.C system in its infinite (but often questionable) wisdom dictates that it can only qualify as a humble "Bourgogne Rouge". Indeed, your average Burgundy snob will usually insist that "proper Burgundy" is only made on the Côte d'Or (or Chablis), completely oblivious to the fact that the Mâconnais and the nearby Côte Chalonnaise are capable of producing some pretty fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (not to mention excellent Gamay). Still, it is their loss, and those of us who are willing to experiment with these lesser-known regions and growers can be richly rewarded. One such grower is Domaine Guillot-Broux, of whom I have written on several previous occasions. I hope to visit Guillot-Broux once again in a couple of weeks, to taste some more wines and with a view to possibly importing some of them later this year. I fear it will turn out to be another of my follies (ref; Mosel, Provence, Loire, etc) but I rarely take the easy route - I like a hard sell! And if wines like this are anything to go by, if I can't sell 'em, I'll be happy to drink 'em myself!

Domaine Guillot-Broux La Myotte 2011 Bourgogne

100% Pinot Noir, from vines planted on 1956, with yields of just 30 hl/ha. Aged for up to 18 months in oak (depending on the vintage). This actually took a day or two to really get into its stride after opening, being initially rather understated and dumb. But boy was it worth the wait, for it blossomed over that time into something quite beautiful - intoxicatingly fragrant, with all manner of red fruit aromas (notably, wild strawberry, redcurrant and even something darker, like blueberry), augmented by myriad secondary aromas like orange oil, damp earth, curry spices and woodsmoke, all wrapped in a cloak of very subtle oak. Really very alluring and sexy stuff, with a finely structured palate - a kernel of sweet and sour fresh and compote red fruits, juicy soft citrus acidity and a touch of leafy herbaceousness, all held together by just the right amount of fine-grained tannins. It really is a completely lovely, charming, delicious wine. Bourgogne Rouge simply doesn't get any better. 12.5% abv.

Watch this space (or make sure you are on my mailing list) for further developments on the coming months..........

          

It isn't Chardonnay - it is Burgundy

Apologies if all I have done over the last week or so (or even more) is post tasting notes, but that is what I do well (or try to). And although I have some pretty strong views on other wine-related matters (another Simon Baile wine company in administration, cryo-extraction in Baumard's Quarts de Chaume and the related crusades/vendettas by fellow wine bloggers, for instance) I prefer to avoid controversy and concentrate on the positive things - like sharing the sheer joy of drinking good wine, wherever it comes from.

I've heard it said before (and I have also recounted the saying before) that it would matter not which grapes were grown in Burgundy, but more that they were grown in Burgundy. OK, I am paraprhrasing slightly (I can't be bothered to look the source up) but you get the picture. The suggestion being that Burgundy would produce great wines, whatever the grape. I remain firmly of the opinion that this is not true, but I am also firmly of the opinion that there are few, if any, better places on earth to grow Pinot Noir or - in this case - Chardonnay. In my experience, the Jura states a pretty good case for Chardonnay, as on occasion does California (for both Pinot and Chardonnay, but generally at a much higher price). Which is saying something, as even lower-end Burgundy of both persuasions is now generally beyond the pocket of all but the most avid fans. But there are still some relative bargains to be found, especially in some of the "satellite" appellations of the Côte d'Or, or (more appropriately) in the southern end of greater Burgundy, in the Mâconnais and the Côtes Chalonnaise. And here are a couple of excellent examples............

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Genièvrières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

Well, I did say in my previous post that it would be hard to resist broaching the rest of my little stash of wines from this grower, especially as I am going through one of my (ever more regular) phases of preferring white over red. I opened this last night but – as with La Croix 2010 from the same grower - it is currently showing better after 24 hours in the decanter. I am actually writing this at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, which under normal circumstances is definitely too early for me to be drinking wine. But boy did I need a glass, after the day I’ve had, and boy, oh boy, does it do the job! It really is wonderfully lime-scented, again with an array of freshly-cut hay, basil and oregano notes, and with a strong perception of wet stone minerality – for me, such an enticing quality in any wine (whether white or red). And that stony theme continues through onto the palate – a veritable double-whammy of bracing, citrus-tinged acidity and a dry, almost chalky mineral edge, which really does make your tabs laugh and your eyes water. But in a most enjoyable way, for there are plenty of tart Bramley apple and soft citrus fruit flavours, with perhaps the merest hint of something richer, like slightly under-ripe peach or apricot. All of which amounts to a pretty good knife-edge balancing act – with less fruit, the tartness might make the teeth jangle, but any more and it wouldn’t excite the taste buds so much. Flippin’ ‘eck, it is good wine! And long, too. I guess the options are to drink it now (with a good overnight airing or a vigorous shake if consuming the same night) or keep for 2 to 3 years to let it fill out a little. Any more and you would be in the potential “premox” window, although to be fair, I’ve yet to drink a white wine from this grower that has suffered such a fate. I love it. But unfortunately, my glass is now empty - as is the bottle - so what other option do I have, but to open a.................

Domaine Guillot-Broux Les Molières 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille
This one is quite a different proposition, not only because it is singing from the start, but also because it has a distinctly smoky scent. Not oaky-smoky, or even reductive-smoky, but wood fire-smoky. And with the amount of tree and hedge cuttings (not to mention the odd Euro-pallet or two) that I have to burn on a regular basis, I do love a good fire. In fact, had I not been brought up to know the difference between right and wrong, I could have had a promising career as an arsonist! Anyway, back to the wine. It still has all of the bracing acidity and deep minerality of Les Genièvrières, but feels just a tad richer, with the Bramley apple augmented by a helping of something a touch sweeter, like a tarte tatin with dessert apples, a sprinkling of demerera sugar, a dash of cinnamon and cloves and a dollop of crème fraiche (now I really am beginning to feel hungry). In fact, in its own way, it is just as thrilling as Les Genièvrières and continues to hit all of the right notes - plenty of fruit, plenty of acidity and minerality by the bucket-load. Not to mention a good deal of complexity, for this would undoubtedly be a match for many a Côte d'Or Village wine (or better) from some pretty serious growers. One way or another, I must get some of these wines on my list - and very soon. Can Mâcon wines compete with the (ever more expensive) wines of the Côte d'Or? On this showing, I would say yes. Brilliant wine.

                    
               

A couple more tasty numbers from southern Burgundy

"Try the Beaumont - it is stunning!" So said my friend David Bennett, who has a house in southern Burgundy and was kind enough to bring me back a box of goodies from Domaine Guillot-Broux, on his most recent trip. And so, being an obedient fellow, and knowing that we have a beef stew with garlic and mustard mash for dinner this evening, I decided to broach my bottle as instructed. And I'm glad I did, for it is truly delicious

Domaine Guillot-Broux Beaumont 2011 Mâcon-Cruzille

A riot of crushed redcurrants, raspberries, wild strawberries, white pepper, spice and bits of undergrowth, rubbed around the inside of an old leather shoe. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, if you  didn't know better, you might think it was a rather nice Burgundy frrom somewhere high up and cool. Indeed, it does have a cool, herby, almost minty quality and a really quite pronounced minerality to it, along with a rasp of slightly mouth-puckering, rustic tannin. Not to mention a core of acidity that would doubtless take the breath away from those who may be more used to lush, sweet, extracted wines from much warmer climes. Let's be honest, they would dismiss it as tart, thin, rustic and charmless. But not me - it ticks most, if not all of my boxes, and has enough fruit, tannin and acidity to make me crave for something beefy, stewy, garlicy, mustardy and potatoey. So I'm off to eat....................

Later..........

Right, where was I? Oh yes, the 2011 Beaumont! So what can I say? Of course it isn't Pinot - it is Gamay - but I challenge anyone with a half-decent palate not to love it for it's tart red fruit, it's bracing acidity and minerality, it's food-friendly tannins and it's sheer youthful vivacity - and it's striking similarity to a half-decent young Burgundy. Like all of the good things in life, it certainly puts a smile on my face. So there you have it - whether you drink it whilst still youthful, or age it for 15+ years, this wine is an absolute joy!

         

Domaine Guillot-Broux La Croix 2010 Mâcon-Cruzille

This white (Chardonnay) is pretty good too, as it happens. Not particularly elevated or showy, but it does exactly what it says on the tin, which is to provide enjoyable white Burgundy drinking at a very decent price - especially when compared to similar wines from the Côte d'Or. Delightfully apple-scented, with hints of lime/citrus and once again a cool, almost minty quality. Likewise, the palate is cool, fresh, herby, minerally, with gorgeously zingy, citrus and tart apple fruit and enough juicy acidity to revive the most jaded of palates. Apparently, this spends 10 months in oak barrels, but you wouldn't notice it, for it really is as fresh as a daisy - even (as I type) 2 nights after opening. A delightful wine!

At this rate, the other 4 bottles in my box of goodies are not going to last very long!

         

In search of Burgundy value

It goes without saying that a good proportion of the wines we drink Chez Stolarski are from southern France. But life would be rather boring if that was all we ever drank. It amazes me how some people stick doggedly to their chosen favourite region, seemingly oblivious to the fact that there is so much variety to be had out there in the wonderful world of wine. OK, so in my humble opinion, southern France remains one of the best sources of fine wines that don't cost the earth. Which is not something you can say about Burgundy - so many fabulous wines, most of which are made in tiny quantities, from a total area a fraction of the size (in both geographical and viticultural terms) of Languedoc-Roussillon. And with the supply/demand gap ever widening, Burgundy prices continue to rise on an almost mind-boggling scale. Never mind the Grand and 1er Cru wines - when one has to pay more for a decent (and in some cases average) Village Burgundy than, say, Domaine de Trévallon (in my opinion, one of the world's great wines), one has to draw the line.

Not that it is yet impossible to find the occasional bargain. With the right sources (auctions, for instance) and friends with the right knowledge, there are still a few gems to be had at the lower end. It isn't necessarily about the absolute "perceived" quality (i.e. cost), but simply about seeking out and enjoying bloody good wines. By which I mean one doesn't necessarily need to scale the pyramid in order to appreciate the finer points of Burgundy. And being able to appreciate them at both ends (and all points in-between) of their development is such a treat, especially when they are as good as this pair of beauties.

Domaine Guillot-Broux Macon-Cruzille Beaumont 1996

This cost me all of £7 per bottle, from an auction. And for all its cheapness, perceived (over)-maturity and lowly denomination, this is a wine which - with each successive bottle - has given TLD and I a great deal of drinking pleasure over the last few years. My only worry is that it may be our last bottle...... unless I have a few odd bottles still buried at the bottom of a pile of inaccessible boxes at my wine store. I hope I do, for this little artefact is still clinging on to life nicely, and certainly isn't going to fall off its perch too quickly. Much as a good Moulin-a-Vent or Morgon can do, a Gamay from the nearby Macon is more than capable of relatively long ageing and, as it does so, taking on more than a hint of "Pinosity" in its efforts to mimic the aromatic and flavour profile of the more esteemed red wines of the Côte d'Or. And this is an excellent example, possessed of an earthy, forest floor and wild strawberry bouquet, with hints of tobacco and spice, whilst the palate is all about tertiary red fruit and citrus flavours, with the merest hint of fruity sweetness offset by tremendously mouth-watering acidity and a touch of rustic tannin. OK, so it isn't really Burgundy (some Burgundy snobs wouldn't touch this sort of stuff with a bargepole) but I have had many a young, acidic, fruit-frugal wine from the Côte d'Or that will never be a match for this. And perhaps it is a sign of my age that I get all dewy-eyed about a wine that was made when I was in my mid-30's and still (much like me!) has much pleasure to offer. ;-) Oh, and it went very nicely with a pork shoulder joint, slowly roasted on a bed of onions and blackberries (which I then used to make a rich sauce, with the addition of some home-made turkey and chicken stock) and some red cabbage and haricot beans.

Domaine Michel Gros Bourgogne Haute Côtes de Nuits 2005

This wine, on the other hand, is a mere youngster at less than 8 years of age and shows all of the vibrant fruit and relative chunkiness of an immature (or at best semi-mature) red Burgundy. Having said that, it has evolved nicely since my previous bottle, which we drank this time last year. At £16, it is a relative bargain (indeed, I also have some of the 2008, which was even more of a bargain at 10 Euros from the cellar door). And although from a relatively lowly denomination, it is from an undoubtedly excellent grower and vintage - a combination which almost always pays rich dividends. It is certainly a delicious wine, which hints at its Nuits Saint Georges origins, whilst actually avoiding the toughness and rusticity I occasionally find in some of that appellation's more elevated wines. The nose is evocative of mixed curry spices, fine tobacco and polished old wood, mingled beautifully with ripe red cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry and even a hint of dried orange peel - everything that is so sexy about good red Burgundy. The palate perhaps lacks the structure and complexity of the wines from the lower (and much more expensive) slopes of the Village and 1er Cru wines, but certainly doesn't lack for charm. A rasp of cherry and raspberry fruit and once again a hint of dried orange makes for a delightfully tangy, ever-so-slightly spicy and peppery wine, with relatively fine tannins and plenty of juicy acidity. All-in-all, it is high-toned and tangy, but with plenty of depth and enjoyment. And whilst it still feels quite primary and will undoubtedly benefit from another 5 or more years in bottle, it is eminently drinkable now. And it went very nicely with a medium rare rump steak with mushrooms and french fries. Yum!
          

A delightful old Gamay, and a new toy to make my life easier

It seems like everyone is talking about Beaujolais at the moment, especially following the hugely successful 2009 vintage, which threatens to put the region firmly back on the quality wine map. But it isn't just Beaujolais that makes good wine from Gamay, for it is quite widely planted in the rest of southern Burgundy, and most notably in the Maconnais, the most southerly appellation of the region. And in my humble opinion, Macon Gamay can be every bit as good as the wines from even the most exalted Beaujolais Crus - especially with bottle age. And this little beauty is a fine example of it's kind. 

Domaine Guillot-Broux Beaumont 1996 Macon-Cruzille

It is a delightful "old" pale ruby/blood colour - clear and bright, but showing definite signs of amber/bricking at the edge. I've had a few bottles of this wine in the past couple of years, ranging from good to very good - always quirky, and occasionally a bit stinky, but this one is almost clean as a whistle. I say almost, because there is undeniably a hint of funky, barnyardy brett on the nose, but just enough to add interest and complexity to a wine that is still full of wild strawberry and red cherry fruit, with touches of cedar, spice and forest floor. A good wine will always age on it's acidity (and of course tannins) and this one still has bags of acidity, whilst any tannins that were there to begin with have resoveld nicely. Experienced palates might just identify this as Gamay, but I'd wager that the first suggestion of many would be Pinot Noir. It is often said that top-notch Gamay can develop Pinot characteristics with age, and this is a classic example of that phenomenon, for it really does have that elegance, minerality, delicate fruit and overall fleet of foot that a really good Bourgogne Rouge - or even village Burgundy - tends to show at this sort of age. It has so much juicy, sweet, elegant fruit - evolved, yes, but still  beautifully poised and full of vitality. And oh, that acidity!

Incidentally, the bottle photo above was taken on my new HTC Desire HD. Strictly speaking, it is a mobile telephone but, as we all know, the concept of mobile 'phones has moved on a little, in recent years. And this little beauty just about has it all - or, at least, all that is available in phone technology thus far. It has an 8 megapixel camera with zoom and flash, video camera, music player, FM radio, wifi, bluetooth, GPS, word processing (with an excellent, user-friendly keyboard), games, apps....... the list goes on. Most importantly for me though, it  has a perfectly formed mini Internet browser, which enables me to access the Internet (and therefore my web server) whilst on the road. Which means that I can access my emails and check for customer orders, without the need to be either sat at my home desktop PC or driving around searching for a wifi signal on my laptop.  At just a shade over £30 per month, for a 2 year contract (including the hardware for "free") I consider it money well spent, for a piece of kit that will make my life so much easier and save me a lot of time into the bargain. In fact, as with the advent of the personal desktop computer and the laptop, I guess it won't be long before I'm asking myself how I ever coped without it!