En vacances 2 - moving day, plus an extraordinary Languedoc red wine

We have spent a fabulous week in Agay. Diane and I quickly become accustomed to not having the boys with us and it is actually shaping-up to be one the best holidays we have had in many a year. Of course, it helps enormously that we love each-other’s company, and the relative solitude of our surroundings and the fact that we can do what we want, when we want has been very liberating – and very relaxing.

Since the rains of Tuesday, the weather has been fine and settled. Yesterday (Friday) was the hottest day so far, with temperatures having reached 30C or more in the afternoon. A cooling breeze and the occasional dip in the pool provided welcome relief. The only exertion we subjected ourselves to was a cycle ride down into the town to buy bread for dinner.

Early evening on the beach at Agay

We then repaired to the living room to watch (or perhaps endure would be a better word) England’s latest World Cup Match against Algeria. Frankly, our national team is becoming a bit of an embarrassment. The Premier League may be one of the best in the world, but then again most of its best players are foreigners. The England team may have one of the best managers in the business, but even he can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. In fact, they are almost as bad as the current French team! The sooner the preliminary stages are over and the rubbish teams like ours are on the plane home, the better – then we can get down to watching some proper football.

Anyway, back to more important things. Thursday, we drove to Antibes, to visit Fabrice and Sandrine. As I mentioned in my earlier post, Fabrice is a Gendarme, and each promotion means moving to a new location. Having previously been posted to Melun (near Paris), Versailles and St-Girons (near the Pyrénées) he had to move to Antibes around a year ago. Fabrice was on duty until 6pm, so Sandrine took us for a stroll around the town and the port. Although Antibes is as chic as any other resort town on the Côte d’Azure, it seems much more at ease with itself and less pretentious than (say) Cannes. It is relatively small and compact and much more like a traditional old French town. Even in mid-June (i.e. not yet the high season) its streets were thronged with people and the shops and cafés were doing good business.

The port is a different matter – some of the ships and yachts have to be seen to be believed, and Antibes is clearly THE place to be seen, if you have a few million spare to spend on a boat. And although the harbour was full of mightily impressive boats, it seems the best ones are anchored out in the bay…..

This was probably the most expensive and extravagant one we saw (note the helicopter as an add-on)......

….. but this was my favourite – quite the most beautiful and elegant boat I have ever seen

Of course, if you have a few million left over after you’ve bought the boat, you might also be able to afford a house on Cap d’Antibes – probably the most exclusive location in the whole of France

We returned to Fabrice and Sandrine’s apartment to enjoy a lovely dinner, including some delicious foie gras de canard, accompanied by sweet Montbazillac and Champagne – truly a match made in heaven.

With Fabrice and Sandrine (and the impish Baptiste – the older and much less mischievous Florent took this photo)

At the end of a lovely evening, we bade our farewells and promised to meet up more often – 7 years since the last time is far too long. On the way back to Agay, we came off the autoroute at Cannes and took a drive along the Corniche de l’Esterel. Although it was dark, it was no less spectacular a sight, with the lights of the towns and villages along the coast making for a beautiful backdrop.

Today was moving day, as we headed to the hills of Faugeres in the Languedoc. We were sorry to leave Agay - it was a lovely area and the house was just perfect. And we will certainly miss that wonderful sea view! We will definitely return there soon – perhaps even next year.

As I type, we have now arrived at our gite for the second week, in the small town of Laurens in the Faugeres region. And – joy of joys – I have a wireless Internet connection, so will be posting often over the next week or so. I’ll tell you more about the place tomorrow, but suffice to say it is fabulous and exceeds our expectations.

On the way, we visited Lucien Creus, father of Robert Creus, the winemaker at Terre Inconnue, and were treated to a tasting of some absolutely wonderful wines. Again, I’ll tell you more in due course, but here’s a tasting note on one of the wines, which we finished off with this evening’s dinner……

Terre Inconnue "Sans Nom" 2005 Vin de Table

All of the wines of Terre Inconnue are labelled as Vin de Table. Robert and Lucien cannot be bothered with the bureaucracy involved in applying for appellation controllée (or even vin de pays) status for their wines. Therefore, all of the wines are labelled as Vin de Table – basically the “lowest” denomination possible for wine produced in France. Indeed, strictly speaking, it is not permitted to even show a vintage on the label, although Robert gets around that problem by including a code (in this instance, L:2005) in small print in the bottom right-hand corner of the label. Simples! It is pure Grenache from vines of around 50 years of age. The nose is one of the most beguiling and distinctive I have ever come across in any Languedoc wine, and which almost defies my descriptive abilities. There are dense, spicy, heady fruits galore, combined with menthol, mint, eucalyptus, lavender, thyme, red meat, tar and polished leather. The palate is rich, tarry, deeply fruity and again full of mint and menthol flavours – almost like cough mixture with lots of nice things thrown-in. It also has a savoury, almost meaty quality, yet manages always to be elegant, with a lovely balance of fruit, savoury, tannin and acidity. To the very last drop, it remained utterly lovely and enormously complex – it is an extraordinary wine, by anyone’s standards. I’ll try and describe some of the other Terre Inconnue wines tomorrow. Meanwhile, it’s been a long day, so I’m off to bed!

En vacances!

Greetings from the sunny south of France! It has been a week or so since I last posted, but an Internet connection has been hard to find where we are, so here are several days’ worth of posts all in one – more in the nature of a dissertation than a blog post, I’m afraid!

If I had been able to find an Internet connection last Friday, I would most probably have written something more profound about how our role as parents to two young boys seems suddenly at an end. For the past 20 years, we have enjoyed so many lovely family holidays together, but this year is different. Our youngest son Daniel is now 18 and is flying off for a holiday in Corfu with his mates in a couple of weeks. He seems very independent and is always off doing his own thing. And after living a life of leisure for a good couple of years, 20 year-old Alex now has a full-time job, although he still hasn’t discovered the benefits of saving a little money (car, holiday, etc) or organising his life. So despite the offer of a free holiday with us, two weeks away from his girlfriend was always going to be at least a week too long. If he’d had the money (and the wherewithal to book a week’s leave) he could have flown down to spend a few days with us, but chose the easy route – as usual – of doing nothing.

So, having spent the previous few weeks and months looking forward immensely to our holiday, I spent the day before we left feeling pretty sad. To tell you the truth, it felt an awful lot like grief – the loss of something that we’ve always held so dear and will never get back. And I know that Diane felt the same as me (as evidenced by the tears as we left) but we also both realised that – for now, at least - it was us that needed the boys more than they needed us. One day, with a little luck, they will experience the same joys (and trials and tribulations) of raising a family as we have. Meanwhile, Diane and I will move on to a more independent life, safe in the knowledge that the boys can cope for themselves. I just hope the house is still standing when we get back!

Anyway, we had a ferry to catch at 7.30 on Friday morning, so we set off at around 2.30. It was an easy journey for most of the way, apart from some of the most torrential rain I have ever seen in the UK, travelling down the M2 in Kent. I have never seen a motorway get so flooded so quickly. It didn’t exactly bode well for the journey through northern France, but almost as soon as we left Calais, on the autoroute towards Reims, the sun started to peep through the clouds. Within an hour, we were driving in glorious sunshine.

The beautiful northern France landscape

Each time we stopped at the services, it was getting warmer and warmer. By the time we reached the southern Champagne region, the temperature was 28C, and it was just as warm by the time we reached our overnight stop in southern Burgundy. Our friend David Bennett had kindly given us the keys to his beautiful little hideaway in Saint Gengoux Le National – surely one of the prettiest villages in the whole of France. Before we arrived, we took a detour and a leisurely drive through the vineyards of Beaune, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, followed by a visit to the Cave Cooperative in Buxy.

A lengthy tasting left me unable to choose between so many lovely wines, so we ended up buying 18 bottles of mixed wines, including various cuvees of Crémant de Bourgogne, white Macon and Rully and red Mercurey and Givry. Lovely wines, every one of them. I have often said that the Neffies Cooperative in Languedoc is one of the best in France – well now I think that the Buxy Cooperative is the best in France.

After a lovely evening in Saint Gengoux, we set off for the final stage of the journey to our destination in Agay, on the Côte d’Azure. It was a rather longer journey than we had anticipated, but we arrived unscathed, despite a somewhat scary altercation with a mad Frenchman in a souped-up BMW, who didn’t take kindly to me showing him my brake lights in the outside lane of the autoroute when he was about 2 yards away from my bumper. Where do you go when you are trying to overtake and have two other cars in front of you? Anyway, despite the fact that this nutcase had previously wanted to reach his destination (possibly an early grave) as quickly as possible, he then decided to tailgate us for the next 20 or 30 kilometres – which was a bit worrying, because we were eventually going to reach the Péage, where we would have to stop. Luckily, he finally decided he’d had enough of trundling along the inside lane at speeds of 50-60 mph and sped off into the distance. Thankfully, we didn’t encounter him again and I learned a valuable lesson – don’t offer internationally-recognised hand signals to people with cars that go faster than mine!

Our house (or villa) has a lovely situation on the Corniche de l’Esterel, which hugs the coastline all the way between St. Raphaël and Cannes and onwards towards Nice, Monaco and the Italian border. Set into the hillside with the coastal rail line directly behind, all we have between us and the sea is the Corniche and the villas on the far side, the gardens of which are literally lapped by the waves. It really is a stunning location. The view from the pool, which is high up behind the house, affords magnificent views out into the Mediterranean, and the view from the living room is almost as good.

The view from our pool........

........and from the patio

It is nice to wake up to such a wonderful view. And all we have to disturb the peace and tranquillity is the distant crashing of the waves and the occasional passing train or car. The house itself is very comfortable and, whilst a little rustic, it has all the facilities we need – private pool, garage, washing machine, barbeque, DVD and TV. We don’t usually feel the need for a TV whilst on holiday, as we like to spend our time outside, although it has certainly proved useful this time, if only to watch the odd World Cup match. We didn’t see much of the England v USA match, but I don’t think we missed too much excitement either. Some of the subsequent matches have been very entertaining, though, and it seems to be shaping-up into an interesting tournament. I’d actually fancied Spain to win it, but the Swiss gave them a good game last night and certainly deserved to win.

I have quite a few relatives in France (my Dad’s family moved there from Poland in the mid-1930’s) and my cousin Fabrice lives in Antibes, his current posting as a Gendarme. So on Sunday, he and his lovely wife Sandrine and their two boys Florent and Baptiste came over for a barbeque and a trip to the beach. It was lovely to see them again, as we had not seen each-other since my cousin Dominique’s wedding in 2002. Today, we will visit them for dinner at their apartment in the centre of Antibes.

My cousin Fabrice and his lovely wife Sandrine

In the evening, after they had left, Diane and I went for a ride on our bikes for a few kilometres along the Corniche. Although the road is by no means flat, the inclines are gentle and fairly short – ideal terrain for Diane to get used to riding a bike again! Her friends had all been saying how jealous (not) they were that she was going to be doing so much cycling on holiday. Well, I am happy to report to Diane’s cynical friends that she enjoyed it immensely and is looking forward to doing a lot more cycling - especially when we get to the hills of Faugeres!

Monday was a lazy day for us, spent mostly by the pool, although we did venture out on the bikes again in the evening.

Tuesday began cloudy and overcast, which eventually turned to intermittent showers, so we decided to drive along the coast. We were going to take the train, as – like the Corniche – it pretty much hugs the coastline all the way to Italy. But we decided to take the car instead, since it meant we wouldn’t be constantly getting on and off trains and we could work to our own timetable. First stop was Cannes. Just as we got out of the car, it started raining, but only for a short while, so we took a stroll along the main drag, to see how the other half lives (and shops). The prices in some of the shops were eye-popping – I saw more than a few skimpy dresses or small items of jewellery selling for several thousand Euros. Some of the shops were less vulgar and didn’t even bother to display prices. I guess if you need to ask the price, you certainly can’t afford it! There are a few free bits of beach in Cannes, but most of it is cordoned-off and clearly reserved for the use of the guests in the numerous plush hotels. To be honest, it really isn’t my kind of place (or Diane’s, thankfully) and the only really interesting bit is the exhibition centre used for the Cannes Film Festival – we spent a few minutes looking at the handprints of all the famous film stars inlaid into the tiles nearby.

Then we drove on along the Corniche, making a few stops here and there to take photos of the spectacular sea views. East of Cannes, we took the more direct road towards Nice, which isn’t at all pretty and passes through some grubby, run-down places – a mixture of wasteland, building sites, ugly towns and high-rise developments. When we got to Nice, we drove straight down through the town to the promenade which, I have to say, is utterly gorgeous – a 2 or 3 kilometre stretch of beach (although it looks like shingle, rather than sand) runs from one side of the bay to the other. I have never seen such a blue sea – in fact so blue, it was almost turquoise. Unfortunately, parking along the promenade is not easy, so we just took a slow drive along to the other side, enjoying the view and the temporary bright sunshine. Just around the corner from the main bay is the harbour, which we reached just as a ferry was departing for Corsica.

Nice harbour, with the main resort top left

The road climbs quickly from there and the view from the highest point is a stunner. In fact, there are countless stunning viewpoints along the whole stretch of road from here, taking in Villefranche-Sur-Mer and Beaulieu-Sur-Mer.

Villefranche-Sur-Mer

Then, all of a sudden, we were in Monaco. If you’ve watched the Monaco Grand Prix on the TV, or have visited Monaco yourself, then you hardly need me to tell you how small and built-up this place is. Wedged between mountain and sea, there is little room left for building outwards, so most of the new buildings now go upwards (and in some cases downwards). Although I’m not a fan of high-rise developments, I guess they have little option here and, being set against the backdrop of spectacular cliffs and mountains, they actually seem to add to the charm of the principality. Not that this is a place without some fantastic old(ish) buildings – the Opera, Casino and Hotel de Paris are magnificent buildings, and there is a lot of great architecture in the older parts of town. And of course, the place simply screams wealth and decadence.

Monaco, seen from the east, near Menton

The Casino

Hotel de Paris

We drove around the town a couple of times before we were able to find a suitable parking space, which almost inevitably meant driving along several parts of the Grand Prix circuit. Save for a couple of areas of red and white-striped verges (and no Armco barriers), you wouldn’t know it, of course, for the whole of the race track comprises what are – for 51 weeks of the year – very busy public roads. It was raining heavily by this time, but we enjoyed seeing the sights and strolling around what is actually a very pretty town – even in the rain.

F1 fans should recognise this stretch of road

The sun made a very welcome return yesterday (Wednesday). There was still a hefty onshore breeze (as evidence by the white horses on the sea) but we had a cloudless sky and temperatures in the high 20’s Celsius, so we enjoyed another relaxing day by the pool.

Finally, here are some rather sparse notes (mainly from memory) on a few wines we have enjoyed over the last few days.

Vignerons de Buxy Buissonnier Demi Sec Crémant de Bourgogne was a delicious way to end a long day’s driving to Saint-Gengoux. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it was refreshing, off-dry with a hint of richness and minerality and a lovely mousse - and crammed full of lovely stone fruit flavours.

Vignerons de Buxy Clos de Chevris 2007 Givry, enjoyed with our Sunday barbeque, was a beautifully light, yet not unsubstantial expression of pure, youthful Pinot Noir – fruits of the forest, with leafy, forest floor notes, and a palate of sweet but tangy strawberry and raspberry and a hint of cream.

Thierry Allemand “Chaillot” 1998 Cornas was one of several bottles I brought with me to enjoy this week, before we reach the vinous heaven of Languedoc. I don’t often use the word “strong” in a tasting note, but this one was exactly that – strong, without being overly tannic or alcoholic (12.5%) and robust, without being overly rustic. It was absolutely loaded with rich, dark blackberry and cherry fruit and not a little spice. It was identifiably Cornas, though it has yet to develop the classic smoky bacon and violet notes on the nose. That said, it was still lovely to drink, even at this relatively young age. It is a very fine wine indeed and definitely has another 5 to 10 years’ of ageing potential before it reaches its peak. I’m glad I have another bottle.

Tuesday night, we “slummed” it with a bottle of supermarket Côtes de Provence – simply by way of experimentation, you understand. It cost us all of 1.95 Euros and I have no idea what the grape mix was (and it was non-vintage) but it was remarkably OK – even good. It ticked all the right boxes – spicy red and black fruits, decent acidity and rustic (but not harsh) tannins made for a very pleasant drink to accompany some steak, Toulouse sausages and pasta with a rich tomato sauce. I’d happily drink it again – though not too often. Life is too short to drink cheap wine! Last night, we stepped up a notch, with a remarkably good Domaine Bech 2008 Costieres de Nimes – also a supermarket wine, though a little more “expensive” at 3.95 Euros(!) It was absolutely delicious and true to its appellation – plenty of dark, ripe fruit, tar, herbs and spices and a certain yeastiness which made it all the more interesting and yummy. In fact, it was so good that I may go back to buy a few more bottles to take home.

As a postscript to this entry (which I have been piecing-together over the last couple of days) we saw the news on the TV last night about the terrible floods and resulting deaths in and around Draguignan. This happened on the very same day (Tuesday) that we made our trip to Monaco. It was a rainy day, for sure, and we had torrential rain on the way back to Agay on the autoroute, but we didn’t realise things were that bad inland. Yesterday (Wednesday) saw a return to glorious weather. There was more rain last night, but the weather forecast is now really good for the rest of this week and the whole of next week - fingers crossed!

       

A few nice wines from the last week or so

I've been slack, this week, having not posted for 5 days. I've not been lazy - honest, Guv - I've just been too busy with lots of other stuff. So here's a round-up of some interesting wines tasted and/or consumed over the last week or so, beginning with an interesting quartet from just another week at Nottingham Wine Circle.

Meursault-Genevrieres Cuvée Philippe-Le-Bon 1984 Hospices de Beaune

Yellow/gold and perhaps turning just a bit oxidised, but still hanging on nicely. Rich, lemony, mineral and just so Burgundy! Nice grip and nice length - a lovely old wine.

Bonnezeaux 1980 Rene Renou

This was a stunner - petrol, lime oil, wet wool and slate on the nose. On the palate, it had such amazing acidity, with the sweetness just beginning to fade, revealing a herby, slatey, zingy wine with gorgeous lemon and lime flavours. Lots of secondary/none wine-specific things going on too. 30 years old and just perfect.

Bourgogne Rouge 1990 Madame Leroy

Earthy, smoky, still very fruity, with forest fruits and undergrowth - a glorious perfume. Complex and still fruity on the palate. Elegant and very feminine. A glorious example of a "basic" Burgundy from a top, top grower, which is just fantastic to drink now, but with years of life left in it.

Corton-Pougets Grand Cru 1991 Louis Jadot

If it hadn't followed the above wine, this one might have stood out more - but it paled in comparison somewhat. Smoky, secondary, earthy. Bigger and less refined than the Leroy, though still a very enjoyable old Burg.

Joseph Swan Vineyards Cuvée de Trois Pinot Noir 2006 Russian River Valley

Carrying on the Pinot theme at home the following evening, I opened this little beauty. The colour is ultra-pale for a red wine - almost a deep-ish rosé, in fact, with hints of ruby and tawny. The nose is spectacular - wild strawberries and raspberries, with notes of brioche and rotting leaves, cinnamon and herby nuances. There is a hint of woodiness, but at the cedar end of the spectrum, rather than full-on oak, suggesting careful use of older barrels.The palate is a mélange of strawberry, raspberry and peach, with even a hint of lychee, all coated in a big dollop of fresh cream - a wonderful combination. What tannin remains is like velvet, and there is plenty of mouth-watering acidity (bordering on VA, which is just fine by me). A wonderful wine, from a wonderful grower. Incidentally, it actually goes brilliantly with milk chocolate!

Available on my website at £21.50.

Domaine de Montesquiou Jurançon Sec 2005

Some fabulous weather last weekend made me crave for something zingy and refreshing, but just a little bit serious - and Jurançon Sec fit the bill. This has turned a lovely golden colour, shiny and limpid. The nose is quite beguiling, offering a combination of lime zest, marmalade, honeysuckle, oregano and wet stone – you really can smell the minerality. The palate has a certain richness of flavour, with subtle hints of toffee and honey, yet is so zingy, lemony and laser sharp that it remains brilliantly focused and tightly-knit. It really is intense, mouth-watering stuff, and actually seems to have a good few years of development left. It also happens to be an excellent advert for DIAM corks – the one in this bottle remains in perfect condition and has obviously done a great job in preserving the wine. All-in-all, this wine provided a lovely surprise and a wonderful pick-me-up on a balmy early summer’s evening. What a shame it was my last bottle!

Heathfield Ridge Patrick Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Coonawarra

After presenting a tasting of my wines to a local group, I popped into the Lincolnshire Poacher, to see a couple of people at the Wine Circle and stayed to sample a few of the wines in the weekly "bottle blind" tasting. There were some nice wines, but one that appealed to me in particular was this lovely Coonawarra Cab. Which is surprising, because I don't have much time for Australian wines, these days. But this one isn't a big blockbuster. It screams Coonawarra, simply because it possesses a relatively light touch, in that it has some elegance and bags of acidity (along with the ever-present mint and eucalyptus leaf aromas and flavours) and even a refreshing touch of "greenness". There's plenty of tangy, almost red cherry fruit, with a bit of blackcurrant, and lots of leafy, earthy flavours. There is some oak influence, but it is relatively subtle and restrained. Some of the others didn't care for it, but for me it made a refreshing change from the (usually) 90-odd percent European wines we tend to taste at the Wine Circle and it had a good degree of elegance and charm. Sometimes one simply has to appreciate that Australian wines are, well..... Australian. Put simply, no other county makes wines like them, and there are obviously still a few Aussie wines out there to please even the most conservative of palates - and this one certainly pleased me. I must try more Australian wines.

Diane and I are off to France tomorrow, for a well-earned holiday, leaving the house in the "capable" hands of my boys. I just hope we have a house to come back to after they've finished with it!

Keep watching, as (Internet access permitting) I'll be posting plenty of stuff to do with both wine and the places/people we'll be visiting.

  
 

A nicely aged southern Rhône wine

Domaine Rabasse-Charavin 2000 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau

This is a classic example of a wine that has developed some interesting - how shall I put it - "secondary" aromas and flavours. The wines of this estate have always come across as slightly earthy, even in their youth, but this one has become a bit of a brett monster! That said, the brettiness (basically, a funky - some may say shitty - sort of aroma, caused by the bacteria called brettanomyces, which eats away at the fruit) does blow off a little after a while in the decanter, but the aromas are still very meaty and earthy, like beef gravy or Bovril. Behind the savouriness, there still lies some rich, brambly, leathery, Grenache-dominated fruit pastille aromas and a nice lift of slightly volatile acidity. And the palate is still loaded with deep, dark fruit flavours. The tannins are still quite chunky and rustic, though balanced by really good acidity, and these combine with the fruit and savoury elements to delicious sweet and sour effect. It's quite a big wine, with a typical southern Rhone warmth, almost (dare I say it) like a rustic, aged Chateauneuf-du-Pape. As a regular visitor to this estate (and other Rasteau and Cairanne growers) I used to drink a lot of wines like this - indeed, I used to sell this one. I still enjoy them very much, although they can sometimes lack the elegance I find in many of their Languedoc counterparts. But this wine, on this particular evening, is going down very nicely. Perhaps today is a fruit day - or maybe even a brett day!
    

Biodynamics - a few rambling thoughts

Following on from a big newsletter sent out to my customers and subscribers on Friday, which included news about my new wines from Mas Foulaquier and Domaine de La Marfée, one of my customers emailed me to ask if I could reference any serious evidence for the beneficial practices of biodynamism, especially at harvest time. It took me a while to compose a reply, not least because it was such a tough question to answer, but it did make me think rather deeply about whether there is any real evidence to support what this customer quite rightly referred to as a philosophy. My reply ended up being rather rambling, but I thought it might be interesting to post my thoughts about it here on my blog, if only to see if anyone out there has anything to add.

I'm not a religious man, so I guess I have to "believe" in something(!) Nobody has ever produced a single shred of evidence to prove that "God" exists, but billions of people still choose to believe. Given that I am in the minority, does that make me wrong? Conjecture aside, I do believe that at least some biodynamic principles are plausible, though (since I'm not a scientist or an expert on the philosophy) I couldn't really say which bits. All I can do is offer random thoughts;

The world is a living, breathing thing, and every single living thing on it owes its existence to a big ball of gas 93 million miles away. The tides are governed by a big piece of rock a quarter of a million miles away. The rest of the solar system and the stars beyond may or may not have an influence on our lives (that said, I'm not big on astrology, either). So I guess the universe does, to a greater or lesser extent, have an influence on what happens. What I do know is that we all feel different from one day to the next, for some inexplicable reason. And on some days, it seems like everbody we encounter is having a bad day (or a good one). For instance, on one day, a car journey might be completely uneventful, whilst the next day it seems like everybody who gets behind the wheel is a demon and you just thank your lucky stars(!) that you reach your destination unscathed. So if our own daily lives and our moods are affected by some or other mysterious force, then why not the plants too?

In terms of wine, have you ever noticed how two bottles of the exact same wine, consumed at different times, seem to smell and taste different. One may give us great joy, whilst the other may be merely good. Always assuming that neither of the bottles are corked, oxidised or in any way faulty, how do we explain that? I hear that Tesco always schedule their trade tastings on "fruit" days. If the greatest force in retailing (we won't go into whether that force is good or bad here) plan their tastings based on the biodynamic calendar, then who am I to argue? ;-)

As for the vineyard preparations, I'm not sure I can believe that the burying of cow horns filled with cosmic potions has any great effect, but the biodynamic potions sprayed on the vines is another matter. Until recently, the so-called health experts poured scorn on homeopathy, and yet homeopathic medicine is now freely and openly used in the NHS. So if it works on us, why not on plants and vines?

As for what happens at harvest time, I think every winemaker worth his (or her) salt will harvest at the "optimum" time (i.e. sugar, ph, or whatever other method they go for). Whether or not that happens to be on the appropriate day of the bio calendar, I don't know. I do know that many winemakers choose to rack and/or bottle their wines at certain times of the lunar calendar, so there's nature dictating again.

But as I've said on numerous occasions here on my blog, whatever one thinks about biodynamicism (extreme organics or just plain whacky) it is a philosophy which does tend to go hand-in-hand with a healthy respect for the land and a fastidious approach to winemaking. Even if it is merely extreme organics, then it must be even better (and better for the land, the flora, the fauna and us) than mere organics.

I did say my reply was a bit rambling, and I guess it proves nothing. In fact, there is little evidence (beyond the mere anecdotal) to prove that biodynamism has any scientific basis. But the proof of the pudding, as they say, is in the eating. Granted, not all biodynamic growers make great wine (especially some who also indulge in extreme "natural" winemaking) but a far bigger percentage of them do make great wine than those at the other end of the spectrum who take the "easier" route.

As always, I'd be interested to read what others think.

 

I'm In A Roussillon State Of Mind(!)

I must apologise for this, but I cannot resist posting a note on yet another Roussillon wine, this time a red from Collioure. Faced with so many new wines to taste, I have probably done what anyone would do (be it wine merchant or drinker) in that I have tended to opt first for the ones I think will excite me most. Well, this is the second to last (with only the new vintage of Domaine Treloar Le Secret to go - don't ask me why) and it is a real cracker, worthy of a post of its own.

Domaine Pietri-Geraud Sine Nomine 2007 Collioure

Made by the diminutive and bubbly Laeticia Pietri-Clara, this is her "basic" Collioure. A few years ago, someone asked her what this cuvée of red Collioure was called (at the time, it didn't have a name). So she christened it "Sine Nomine", which is actually Latin for "without a name" - or words to that effect. Laeticia's strongest suits are normally her sweet Banyuls wines (I currently list her wonderful Cuvée Mediterranée 2003) and her dry white Collioure (currently the 2008 vintage). The reds have always been good, if not not remarkable. In fact, she makes at least 2 (and sometimes 3) different dry red cuvées, and the only one that has ever really appealed to me is this one. And I have to say, she has excelled herself with the lovely 2007.

This offers lifted aromas of strawberry and plum, combined with notes of spring flowers, violets and undergrowth. There is also a subtle, yet very definite hint of the sea (Collioure is situated right on the coast, where the Pyrenées tumble into the Mediterranean). And all of these aromas combine beautifully in a wine of considerable elegance. The palate is elegant, too - in fact, very feminine - with the rich red fruit flavours balanced by juicy acidity and tannins as soft as velvet. That maritime influence again has its say - not so much salty as savoury and herby, along with a hint of liquorice and a long, softly spicy finish. This really is a lovely surprise and is very definitely the most elegant of my Roussillon wines - I'm rather thrilled with it, but also a little miffed, because I only bought a handful of cases! A bargain at £12.95.

Food-wise, it would go beautifully with garlic-infused lamb, or a lamb tagine, a roast rib of beef. Dare I say, it would probably be a great match with a full-flavoured fish dish with a fishy/creamy sauce. It also happens to be devilishly drinkable on its own, whilst typing yet another glowing tasting note on yet another fabulous Roussillon wine!

        

An amazing 17 year-old Cornish wine

I've tasted a good many English wines over the last few years and, to be honest, the only one that really excited me was a vintage Nyetimber (1999, I think) with a few years of bottle age. Until this week, that is, when one of the Nottingham Wine Circle members produced this amazing little beauty....

Veryan Huxelrebe and Madeleine Angevine Medium Dry 1993 Cornish Table Wine

Yes, you read it correctly, a 1993 English wine. Or Cornish, to be exact - and just in case you miss it on the main label, there's a small sticker which proudly states "Made in Cornwall". For the uninitiated (and that includes me!) the back labels states as follows;

"Huxelrebe was bred in 1927 at the Alzey Research Institute from Gutedal & Courtillier Musque. Madeleine Angevine7672 was introduced into the UK by Barrington Brock in 1957 and probably originated in Siebeldingen."

Well that clears that up, then!

Anyway, what of the wine itself? This being a blind tasting, some people were guessing Germany (possibly Riesling or Muller Thurgau), whereas others were in Alsace (Pinot Gris or Blanc). When those were ruled out, we were all over the place (Luxembourg, Austria, Hungary, etc). It was only by a slow process of elimination that somebody finally suggested England. "Sort of", came the reply. "Cornwall, actually". We guessed wildly at the vintage, but nobody got close to 1993. I have to say that I have tasted many a wine with a far more aristocratic reputation that gave far less enjoyment than this 17 year-old Cornish beauty. The nose was quite complex, with aromas of Cox's Orange Pippin, lime marmalade, kerosene and brioche.The palate was citrus and stone fruit, with a good deal of stoney minerality, almost Riesling-like. Steely dry, but with a depth and richness brought on by years of bottle age - lime marmalade again. It was surprisingly long and complex, and very much alive. Everybody seemed to like it, but I really loved it, so much so that I took the bottle home at the end and enjoyed the last half glass the next day (and it was still lovely). Frankly, this is a wine that I would gladly drink a lot more of - so if anybody reading this happens to have a few bottles lurking in their cellar, please let me know. ;-)  In fact, it was one of the most pleasant wine surprises I can remember, and ranks right up there with the unbelievably good Lohengrin Liebfraumilch 1987 (in a 1 litre bottle) I took to a tasting 4 years ago!

It seems that Wine Circle Secretary David Selby can do no wrong with the amazing selection of wines he brings every week. Usually, they are a lot more "special", but this little gem gave me (and others) much pleasure.

If you are even geekier than me about wine and want to know more about Huxelrebe and Madeleine Angevine, here's a couple of links;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huxelrebe

http://www.winegrowers.info/varieties/Vine_varieties/Madeleine%20Angevine.htm

Happy reading!

   

A real taste of spring (or do I mean summer?), plus one more fabulous Rousillon wine

Well, spring seems to have arrived with a vengeance in the UK. The past few days have been warm and generally sunny, but Saturday saw the arrival of positively Mediterranean weather, with temperatures in the mid-to-high 20's celsius. Mr Blue Sky finally showed his face, with literally not a cloud in sight from dawn until dusk. And although my golf was nothing to write home about, I did come home with face and arms several shades redder than when I left. This fine weather may not last (I hear that temperatures will drop again in a few days) but it has certainly made a change to be bathed in warm sunshine, after the somewhat cool weather we have endured in early spring.

Anyway, apologies for writing about yet another Roussillon wine, but the one I opened this evening (there are now just a couple more to go before all of my new wines are written-up) was a cracker.....

Domaine Sol-Payre Imo Pectore 2006 Cotes du Roussillon

Mourvedre, Syrah and old vine Carignan, aged in barrel for 12 months. The nose is spectacularly complex, with aromas of cherry and bramble fruits steeped in eau de vie, allied to notes of cocoa, sandalwood, leather, tobacco and aromatic spices - a lot of descriptors, I know, but trust me, they are all in there. This wine is clearly the product of some beautifully ripe fruit and masterly barrel ageing. The palate is equally classy and complex, with generous, sweet black fruit flavours complemented by tangy sour cherry and orange peel, whilst subtle notes of garrigue herbs and red meat add savouriness. Ripe, velvety tannins and ample acidity complete the package. Restrained power and elegance are the watchwords. In fact, having already written that the 2007 Cuvée Ater (see my entry of Tuesday 11 May) is the best wine of the current crop from Sol-Payré, I must say that this one compares very favourably. The wines of Domaine Sol-Payré have always been reliably lovely, but it is clear that winemaker Jean-Claude Sol is not happy to rest on his laurels. As with the Ater, this one has raised the quality to a new level. Yet another fantastic wine, and a complete and utter bargain at £13.50.

Tomorrow, I shall post a on a rather lovely 17 year-old English wine(!)
   

Yet more delicious Roussillon wines

Continuing my arduous and brave quest to taste my way through a whole host of new Roussillon wines, here are my thoughts on a couple more, tasted over the last couple of evenings. Neither are profound, but both are testament to what Roussillon is capable of at the "lower" end, when it is doing its own thing and not trying to emulate wines from other regions. This pair are just about as "Roussillon" as you will ever get.

Mas de Lavail Muscat de Rivesaltes 2008

Made from 100% old-vine Muscat A Petit Grains, lightly fortified with grape spirit. If you have ever been lucky enough to enjoy eating fresh muscat grapes (they are often available in French markets and supermarkets in late August) then you won't need me to tell you how delicious they are. And wines don't come much more "grapey" than a fine Muscat de Rivesaltes - and they don't come any better than this little cracker. The nose offers a riot of (you guessed it) grapey aromas, with notes of lime marmalade and clementines. The palate is both mouth-filling and super-fresh, like munching on a handful of grapes, but with an ethereal, marmalade-y richness. The inherent natural acidity and slight pithiness of the Muscat grape are complemented perfectly by just the right amount of fortifying grape spirit. To be honest, I have rarely tasted a bad Muscat de Rivesaltes (with such wonderful raw material, that would be difficult) but some cheaper examples can be a bit too hot for their own good. Not this one, though. - it manages to be both rich and mouth-watering at the same time, whilst the grape spirit adds a refreshing tanginess, rather than heat. Young Muscat de Rivesaltes is never profound, although I've heard tell that if you are brave enough to age it for 10 or 15 years, it can be. But why wait, when it tastes this good at less than 2 years old? It is utterly lovely - and very long, too. In all my years, I've yet to taste a better one. Yummy! A perfect match for patés, foie gras, cheeses of all descriptions, with fresh fruit, or as a delicious aperitif. A bargain at £11.50.

Domaine Sol-Payré Tradition 2008 Cotes du Roussillon

50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 30% Carignan, aged in vat. Medium ruby red colour with a light-ish rim. The nose offers enticing aromas of cherries, stewed plums and raspberries. Notes of herby garrigue and red capsicum, combined with a touch of meatiness, add savoury nuances. The palate is loaded with fresh, juicy red cherry and raspberry fruit flavours, again with some savoury/meaty notes. All of that flavour, combined with a healthy dash of tangy acidity and just the right level of tannin makes for a wine that is deliciously drinkable already. There may even be the merest hint of spritz, which serves only to lift it further above the ordinary. This wine shows just how good Roussillon reds can be at the "lower" end, with an aromatic and flavour profile not a million miles away from really good Cotes du Rhone - but with extra dimensions of freshness and lift. The much-maligned Carignan does more than its fair share to add to the interest and drinkability of this wine. And it actually tastes lovely, even after sampling the delights of the Muscat de Rivesaltes - no mean feat, for a dry red to follow a sweet white! This is yet another winner from one of the most reliable growers on my list. A versatile red wine, to enjoy with roast beef or lamb, roast vegetable dishes, cheese, pasta. £8.95.

 

Right, dinner calls...........

   

I hear summer is on the way..... so why is spring still dragging its feet?

Apart from a warm spell in mid-April, UK temperatures this spring have been disappointing, to say the least. And the weather in Spain wasn't particularly kind to us, when we spent a few days there the other week. I've also heard tell that southern France (not just Languedoc and Roussillon, but Provence too) has seen some weird and unseasonal weather this year - much of it cold. So what of climate change (or global warming, as it used to be termed)?

There was an an interesting special edition of Springwatch on the TV this evening, highlighting the potential impact of climate change on the delicate balance of our native flora and fauna. It was a good watch and, to its credit, didn't attempt to paint a picture of total doom and gloom - some species will find their habitats under threat, whilst other species will thrive under the changing conditions. Whatever the truth behind climate change (is it all down to man, or is it as much down to the natural cycle?) we do seem to be experiencing more extremes of weather than we used to. That said, it could be argued that this year has so far been a bit more "normal", in that we had a fairly long, cold winter and have since "enjoyed" a somewhat changeable spring. So much so that my grapevine seems to be way behind in its development, compared with the same stage in the last few years. The buds normally begin to appear in late March and have usually burst by early-to-mid April. Not that I'm in the habit of recording these things too closely, but by now I would have expected the new shoots to be growing vigorously (to the tune of a few inches per week), whereas they are still progressing at a snail's pace. Here's a picture taken yesterday, of a section of the vine I have trained between the kitchen wall and the garage, which gets maximum exposure to whatever sun we might get.....

Not that I'm too worried, since the fruit (usually lots of it) is of little use for anything other than jelly/jam and the vine is really only ornamental. Frankly it is a bit of a pain to look after, since it needs at least 2 or 3 prunings per summer, in order to keep it under control and avoid it pulling the house down! At least other things are starting to grow well, though, as we arrive at what is traditionally my favourite time of year. The Wisteria is just beginning to flower and will soon be in full bloom, whilst the Clematis at the top of the garden seems to climb higher and higher each year up the large tree planted in the school caretaker's garden on the other side of the wall. For just a few brief months each spring, it really is a glorious sight - and a glorious scent, too. Here's another photo of the sight that greets me as I turn onto the drive.....

Anyway, climate change or not, I'm going to be optimistic about this year. Despite the reluctance of the Met Office to make any sort of prediction about the weather for the forthcoming summer (they've got it so badly wrong in recent years, it is hardly surprising) I have a feeling in my water that this summer is finally going to be that barbeque summer that we've all been waiting for. Remember 1976? Cold winter, awful spring, snow in early June? Look what happened after that..........

Just remember, you read it here first. ;-)

 

Two more Roussillon wines - a full-bodied dry white and a stunning sweet red

Mas de Lavail is a grower whose wines I have been listing for several years now, though my stocks of their wines had dwindled to virtually zero by the middle of last year. But following another visit to the estate in July 2009, together with a stop-by at their stand at Vinisud in February 2010, it was clear to me that the standard of their range of wines just gets better and better. Here are my notes on a couple of them, tasted over the last 2 days.

Mas de Lavail Le Sud 2008 Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes

Very pale gold colour with a water rim. The nose is intensely fragrant, combining grape, apple and stone fruit aromas, with notes of honeysuckle, marmalade, orange blossom, herbs and spices and creamy, smoky oak. It's a very complex nose, for such a young wine. The palate is equally intense and extremely full-bodied, rich and expressive - and equally complex. The flavours are of spiced fruit salad laced with Calvados, with some distinctly herbal notes (think fennel, oregano). There's a healthy lick of acidity, which provides a nice counter to the rich, almost tangy marmalade mid palate and the long, warming finish. You often read that a wine "wears its alcohol well", by way of mitigating a perceived drawback. But this wine wears its 14.5% abv proudly on its sleeve. It isn't a quaffer, it is a food wine (perhaps chicken or pork, or fish with a herby sauce) and is not for the faint-hearted. It is undoubtedly big and rich and packed with flavour, but for all that power, it is curiously elegant and quirky - and very lovely. I think it will be a keeper, too - watch it develop over the next 5 or more years. Shame I only bought a few cases! £14.50.

Mas de Lavail Expression 2008 Maury

Made from 100% old vine Grenache, harvested at the peak of maturity, the grapes are given a long maceration, followed by "mutage" (the addition of a small amount of grape brandy) which halts fermentation and retains some of the grape sugars. The colour is densely purple and opaque, with a tiny, vivid pink rim. The nose is all about dark fruits of both the fresh and dried varieties. Bramble and blackcurrants, cherries and prunes steeped in eau de vie mingle with dark chocolate, forest floor and cedar wood. The palate is a riot of intensely sweet, concentrated fruit, combining tangy black cherries, stewed brambles, cassis and prunes, with a hint of Seville orange marmalade. Notes of molasses and dark chocolate add an intense richness, like liquid Christmas cake. And through it all runs an enticing, refreshing streak of acidity. I guess there are some healthy tannins in there somewhere, but the balance and the richness render them almost unnoticeable. This wine is so delicious and so more-ish that I simply cannot fault it. And although it is so lovely now, I can only see it getting better and better for at least a decade, perhaps a lot longer. I took it along to a blind tasting at Nottingham Wine Circle, where it compared more than favourably to the Graham's 1977 Vintage Port that followed. The Port was superb (and so it should be) but the Maury showed magnificently. And at just 16% abv - as opposed to the 20% of the Port - this gently fortified wine provides the sort of balance and freshness that Port can rarely (if ever) attain. Food pairings would include rich puddings (even with chocolate) or fruitcake, raspberry sorbet, cheese, or even as an accompaniment to duck with cherry sauce. And when Christmas comes around, it is the perfect match for mince pies. Better still, just enjoy it on its own.  Vintage Maury is truly one of the world's best and most underrated sweet red wine styles - and this is a truly exceptional example, and a steal at £14.95.

  

What a difference a day makes

Well, it has been a pretty eventful day. As we all know, some pretty extraordinary things have been going on in the world of UK politics. But wherever my own sympathies may lie, this is predominantly a wine blog, so I'm happy to let them remain (a not particularly well-kept) secret. 

But I can't avoid commenting on the failure of my beloved Nottingham Forest Football Club to reach the Championship play-off final, with what seemed to be a pretty limp second leg, second half capitulation at home to Blackpool. The final aggregate score, after a total of 180 minutes of football was Forest 4 - Blackpool 6. So near, yet so far. A few months ago, Forest looked certain to go on and clinch automatic promotion to the Premiership, but some very poor away form in 2010 put paid to that. The play-offs provided a second chance, but proved a hurdle too far for what is still a very young and essentially inexperienced side. Never mind - after all, it's only a game, and there is always next season. The experience the squad will have gained and the hard lessons they have learned from this campaign will surely stand them in good stead for next season and help them to see it through to the end. Listening to tonights match on the radio, it was nice to hear the Forest fans applauding their team off the pitch at the end and - perhaps more importantly - also applauding the Blackpool team, who clearly deserved the win. Good luck to them in the final.

But let's get back to wine. Having been rather ill over the weekend, I was feeling a bit better by Monday night, so I thought I'd ease myself gently back into the swing by tasting another of my new Roussillon wines. I have to admit that it took me a while to begin to appreciate the charms of this wine. Perhaps it was just that my senses had taken a battering over the previous few days and I wasn't physically able to assess it properly. Or maybe it just needed time (in this case, a full 24 hours) to show its true colours. Whatever the case, what a difference a day made..........

Domaine Sol-Payré Cuvée Ater 2007 Cotes du Roussillon 

This is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, aged for 1 year in oak barrels. It has an almost opaque blood red core, with a narrow light purple rim. The rich, bramble, cherry and plum aromas typical of previous vintages are all present and correct. But it's not just about the fruit - there's a whole lot more going on here, with subtle cedar, leather and tobacco aromas, courtesy of very skilful oak-ageing, along with some enticingly meaty, savoury elements lurking in the background. Many of these elements take some time to emerge (in fact, it really does come into its own on day 2) but they are worth waiting for, because this a truly impressive and considerably complex wine. It oozes class, though in a restrained, almost elegant (rather than overt) way. Not that it lacks power - far from it - but the luscious yet tangy red and black fruit flavours and those savoury elements, combined with fine, chocolatey tannins and just the right level of acidity, all seem to add up to something much more than the sum of its parts. The finish is long and spicy. It is already a delight to drink now, although the fact that it shows so brilliantly on the second day marks it out as a wine that should age and improve superbly, over the next 5 to 8 years, perhaps more. Actually, I detect a subtle shift in style, with this latest vintage - I believe previous vintages have seen some use of American oak barrels, whereas this one seems much more like exclusively French (or at least European) oak. Whatever the answer, this has become my favourite cuvée from Sol-Payré over the years, and this particular vintage may just turn out to be the best one yet. And at £13.50, it is a lot of wine for the money.

   

Gastric flu - not a pleasant experience

I thought I'd got away very lightly with this, having had a bit of stomach trouble a couple of weeks ago. For the best part of a week, my stomach was a bit tender and food was sitting very heavily - I thought perhaps it was the return of an ulcer my doctor had diagnosed a few years back, or (perish the thought) something much worse! Eventually, my little problem subsided and I forgot all about it. About a week ago, my youngest son Daniel went down with a stomach bug, just as we were getting ready for our trip to Spain. TLD then got something very similar whilst we were in Spain and, to cap it all, we arrived home to find older son Alex laid-up with exactly the same thing. Fine, I thought - at least we've all had it now, so it's out of the way. And, of course, my iron constitution meant that I had brushed it off without too much trouble.

Then, at around 4 o'clock yesterday afternoon, my stomach started to feel distinctly, erm, "rumbly". I'll spare you the gory details, which are not fit for a public blog. All I can say is thank heavens for modern sanitation. Very unusually for me, I was in bed by 9 pm - and out of it on numerous occasions through the night, dashing to the bathroom. Dehydration was my biggest worry. I was so thirsty, but was struggling to keep even plain water down. And tea with lemon (my comfort drink of choice, when I'm ill) didn't half taste sour on its way back up! Following one of the longest nights I can remember (you know the sort - you are so tired, but can't stay asleep for more than 10 minutes at a time) I was up at 7 am and contemplating how to get through the rest of the day. Along with the stomach pains, the classic flu symptoms had left me feeling utterly drained and so weak that I could hardly walk up the stairs. By 9 am, I'd had enough, so went back to bed for a few hours and actually managed to get a few hours' sleep. Although I still feel like death warmed-up, at least I'm now managing to keep some fluids down and have even managed to eat a little something. So I guess I'm going to live.

That said, the last thing I feel like doing right now is drinking wine (which of course is what this blog is supposed to be about) but I'm sure I'll be fit as a fiddle in 2 or 3 days and raring to get through the remaining tasting notes for my new wines.

    

A few days in Spain

We´re in Spain at the moment, spending a few days with my sister Liz and her husband John. They have a lovely house near Denia (roughly halfway between Alicante and Valencia) with impressive views of hills and mountains - and a glimpse of the see if you are tall enough. There´s a lovely pool, too - unfortunately, the weather isn´t hot enough to be bathing, and the pool temperature is down to 14C. That said, it is intermittently sunny and nice enough to be sitting outside.

TLD enjoying some sun by the pool

Following our early morning flight, we arrived in good time for lunch at a restaurant in the nearby village of Rafol d'Almunia. Service was efficient and friendly and the food was simple, tasty and plentiful. First came a selection of starters made from fish and potatoes, with salad, aoli and fresh bread. Mains included braised lamb shanks, several fish dishes, entrecote steak and paella. We all had profiteroles for dessert, followed by excellent coffee. The ladies and I shared bottles of red, white and rose wine, whilst John had a couple of beers. And the cost for that little lot? 38 Euros - not each, but in total! I was flabbergasted. I know Spain is cheaper than France and the UK, but to enjoy a 3-course meal, plus more wine than we could resonably drink over a lunchtime, plus coffee, all for less than 10 Euros each is just amazing. I can see why so many Brits come and live out here, if living is so much cheaper than in the UK.

This being a wine blog, I can´t write without commenting on the wines we had. The white was Vino de La Tierra de Castilla Viñapeña Airen. I know Airen has a bad reputation as the most widely-planted white variety in Spain (possibly the world), but it was actually OK - fruity, lemony, herbaceous and refreshing. In fact, quite Sauvignonesque. The red was Vino de La Tierra de Castilla Viñapeña Tempranillo, which was full of cherry and raspberry fruit, with nice acidity and soft tannins - simple, but very typical of the grape variety. The rose (sorry, but I can't work out how to do an acute accent on this European keyboard) was Bodegas Ayusc Rosado Abadia del Reble. Potent, very slightly oxidative, with aromas and flavours of baked redcurrants and apples. It was curiously enjoyable. In fact, I may never again blog on 3 more un-profound wines, but they hit the spot at this time, and in this place. Sometimes, simple is all you really need.

TLD, John and Liz

Today, we went for a couple of beers at a seaside cafe just up the coast from Denia, followed by a gentle stroll and a quick visit to the shops. I'm typing this inbetween goes at Scrabble, which is doing my concentration no good at all - and I hate losing!

The weather forecast says temperatures in the low-to-mid 20's tomorrow, so we may get to use the pool after all.

    

Some new Roussillon wines

I'm still busy writing tasting notes on lots of new Roussillon wines, before (hopefully) getting an email newsletter out to all of my customers and subscribers next weekend. Not before time, I might add, since I have yet to publicise the last lot of new wines from La Marfée and Mas Foulaquier, never mind these latest wines. I must do better! Meanwhile, here's some notes on 3 wines I've been tasting this week.

Domaine Sol-Payré Cuvée Ivresse de Sens 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages

A lovely transluscent ruby/blood red core, fading gently to a wide rim. The nose has complex aromas of poached bramble and strawberry, garrigue herbs and orange peel, leather and older oak (i.e. with a suggestion of cedar, rather than vanillin). Lurking in the background, there are some meaty, savoury notes, along with a hint of red capsicum, giving the wine an almost (dare I say it) Bordeaux-like profile(!) The savouriness on the palate, though, is maritime Roussillon through and through - after all, Elne, where this wine is grown, is barely 10km from the sea, and those sea mists can often reach this far inland. But there's plenty of fruit, toowith more in the way of red fruit than black (notably cherry and redcurrant) which combine beautifully with the savoury elements. Soft tannins and decent acidity make for a typical (of this cuvée) complete the package, in a wine that has a deliciously sweet and sour quality. It is very drinkable now, but undoubtedly has the structure to evolve nicely over the next 3 to 5 years. A classy wine. £10.99.

Domaine Treloar La Terre Promise 2008 Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes

50% Grenache Gris, 30% Macabeu, 20% Carignan Blanc, fermented and aged for a year in oak barrels. A medium-hued, shiny gold colour, with pale orange glints. This is a considerably complex mix of tree fruits, citrus, minerals and creamy/toasty oak. It is hard to pick out the individual fruits, but there is a suggestion of apple, peach and orange zest, with a real hint of nuttiness. Although clearly made in a very slightly oxidative style (think old-style Rioja) it really is super-fresh and clean as a whistle. The palate is nutty and rich, with those complex fruit flavours combining beautifully with the oak, with just a hint of oak tannin. There is a refreshing streak of citrus and apple acidity and subtle hints of spice, reminiscent of apple pie spiked with cinnamon and cloves. Although quite rich, it is never more than medium-to-full bodied, with a long, spicy finish. It is a joy to drink now, but I also feel it has genuine ageing potential, over the next 5 or even 10 years. It is a cracker, and even better than the excellent 2007. An absolute steal at £12.50.

Domaine Treloar Motus 2007 Cotes du Roussillon

80% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache, aged for 24 months in oak barrels. An almost opaque, deep purple colour with a tiny rim. The nose has masses of bramble fruits and blueberries, with toasty oak. There is a lot of other stuff going on in the background, too - polished leather, exotic spices, coffee and chocolate and an attractive hint of orange peel. It sounds full-on, and it is, but it is classy, with a certain amont of elegance. The palate is crammed full of fresh, vibrant fruit, with intense, juicy acidity and a rasp of mouth-puckering but fine-grained tannin. As the nose suggests, it is rich and spicy, but all the while suggesting elegance and restrained power, rather than being a bruiser - it caresses the taste buds, rather than assaulting them. It is very long, too, with a mouth-watering sweet and sour finish. Having said that, this is a wine that really demands time in bottle. It has considerable structure, but the oak is quite dominant at present, and will take a few years to really integrate. Nevertheless, it is a very fine wine, and those with the patience to age it for 10 or even 15 years will be richly rewarded. £14.50.

Now I'm off to visit my sister in Spain for a few days. Depending on Internet access, I'll try and post some thoughts in a couple of days - but I hear the weather is going to be lovely, so it may be difficult to drag myself away from the pool!