Biodynamics - a few rambling thoughts

Following on from a big newsletter sent out to my customers and subscribers on Friday, which included news about my new wines from Mas Foulaquier and Domaine de La Marfée, one of my customers emailed me to ask if I could reference any serious evidence for the beneficial practices of biodynamism, especially at harvest time. It took me a while to compose a reply, not least because it was such a tough question to answer, but it did make me think rather deeply about whether there is any real evidence to support what this customer quite rightly referred to as a philosophy. My reply ended up being rather rambling, but I thought it might be interesting to post my thoughts about it here on my blog, if only to see if anyone out there has anything to add.

I'm not a religious man, so I guess I have to "believe" in something(!) Nobody has ever produced a single shred of evidence to prove that "God" exists, but billions of people still choose to believe. Given that I am in the minority, does that make me wrong? Conjecture aside, I do believe that at least some biodynamic principles are plausible, though (since I'm not a scientist or an expert on the philosophy) I couldn't really say which bits. All I can do is offer random thoughts;

The world is a living, breathing thing, and every single living thing on it owes its existence to a big ball of gas 93 million miles away. The tides are governed by a big piece of rock a quarter of a million miles away. The rest of the solar system and the stars beyond may or may not have an influence on our lives (that said, I'm not big on astrology, either). So I guess the universe does, to a greater or lesser extent, have an influence on what happens. What I do know is that we all feel different from one day to the next, for some inexplicable reason. And on some days, it seems like everbody we encounter is having a bad day (or a good one). For instance, on one day, a car journey might be completely uneventful, whilst the next day it seems like everybody who gets behind the wheel is a demon and you just thank your lucky stars(!) that you reach your destination unscathed. So if our own daily lives and our moods are affected by some or other mysterious force, then why not the plants too?

In terms of wine, have you ever noticed how two bottles of the exact same wine, consumed at different times, seem to smell and taste different. One may give us great joy, whilst the other may be merely good. Always assuming that neither of the bottles are corked, oxidised or in any way faulty, how do we explain that? I hear that Tesco always schedule their trade tastings on "fruit" days. If the greatest force in retailing (we won't go into whether that force is good or bad here) plan their tastings based on the biodynamic calendar, then who am I to argue? ;-)

As for the vineyard preparations, I'm not sure I can believe that the burying of cow horns filled with cosmic potions has any great effect, but the biodynamic potions sprayed on the vines is another matter. Until recently, the so-called health experts poured scorn on homeopathy, and yet homeopathic medicine is now freely and openly used in the NHS. So if it works on us, why not on plants and vines?

As for what happens at harvest time, I think every winemaker worth his (or her) salt will harvest at the "optimum" time (i.e. sugar, ph, or whatever other method they go for). Whether or not that happens to be on the appropriate day of the bio calendar, I don't know. I do know that many winemakers choose to rack and/or bottle their wines at certain times of the lunar calendar, so there's nature dictating again.

But as I've said on numerous occasions here on my blog, whatever one thinks about biodynamicism (extreme organics or just plain whacky) it is a philosophy which does tend to go hand-in-hand with a healthy respect for the land and a fastidious approach to winemaking. Even if it is merely extreme organics, then it must be even better (and better for the land, the flora, the fauna and us) than mere organics.

I did say my reply was a bit rambling, and I guess it proves nothing. In fact, there is little evidence (beyond the mere anecdotal) to prove that biodynamism has any scientific basis. But the proof of the pudding, as they say, is in the eating. Granted, not all biodynamic growers make great wine (especially some who also indulge in extreme "natural" winemaking) but a far bigger percentage of them do make great wine than those at the other end of the spectrum who take the "easier" route.

As always, I'd be interested to read what others think.

 

I'm In A Roussillon State Of Mind(!)

I must apologise for this, but I cannot resist posting a note on yet another Roussillon wine, this time a red from Collioure. Faced with so many new wines to taste, I have probably done what anyone would do (be it wine merchant or drinker) in that I have tended to opt first for the ones I think will excite me most. Well, this is the second to last (with only the new vintage of Domaine Treloar Le Secret to go - don't ask me why) and it is a real cracker, worthy of a post of its own.

Domaine Pietri-Geraud Sine Nomine 2007 Collioure

Made by the diminutive and bubbly Laeticia Pietri-Clara, this is her "basic" Collioure. A few years ago, someone asked her what this cuvée of red Collioure was called (at the time, it didn't have a name). So she christened it "Sine Nomine", which is actually Latin for "without a name" - or words to that effect. Laeticia's strongest suits are normally her sweet Banyuls wines (I currently list her wonderful Cuvée Mediterranée 2003) and her dry white Collioure (currently the 2008 vintage). The reds have always been good, if not not remarkable. In fact, she makes at least 2 (and sometimes 3) different dry red cuvées, and the only one that has ever really appealed to me is this one. And I have to say, she has excelled herself with the lovely 2007.

This offers lifted aromas of strawberry and plum, combined with notes of spring flowers, violets and undergrowth. There is also a subtle, yet very definite hint of the sea (Collioure is situated right on the coast, where the Pyrenées tumble into the Mediterranean). And all of these aromas combine beautifully in a wine of considerable elegance. The palate is elegant, too - in fact, very feminine - with the rich red fruit flavours balanced by juicy acidity and tannins as soft as velvet. That maritime influence again has its say - not so much salty as savoury and herby, along with a hint of liquorice and a long, softly spicy finish. This really is a lovely surprise and is very definitely the most elegant of my Roussillon wines - I'm rather thrilled with it, but also a little miffed, because I only bought a handful of cases! A bargain at £12.95.

Food-wise, it would go beautifully with garlic-infused lamb, or a lamb tagine, a roast rib of beef. Dare I say, it would probably be a great match with a full-flavoured fish dish with a fishy/creamy sauce. It also happens to be devilishly drinkable on its own, whilst typing yet another glowing tasting note on yet another fabulous Roussillon wine!

        

An amazing 17 year-old Cornish wine

I've tasted a good many English wines over the last few years and, to be honest, the only one that really excited me was a vintage Nyetimber (1999, I think) with a few years of bottle age. Until this week, that is, when one of the Nottingham Wine Circle members produced this amazing little beauty....

Veryan Huxelrebe and Madeleine Angevine Medium Dry 1993 Cornish Table Wine

Yes, you read it correctly, a 1993 English wine. Or Cornish, to be exact - and just in case you miss it on the main label, there's a small sticker which proudly states "Made in Cornwall". For the uninitiated (and that includes me!) the back labels states as follows;

"Huxelrebe was bred in 1927 at the Alzey Research Institute from Gutedal & Courtillier Musque. Madeleine Angevine7672 was introduced into the UK by Barrington Brock in 1957 and probably originated in Siebeldingen."

Well that clears that up, then!

Anyway, what of the wine itself? This being a blind tasting, some people were guessing Germany (possibly Riesling or Muller Thurgau), whereas others were in Alsace (Pinot Gris or Blanc). When those were ruled out, we were all over the place (Luxembourg, Austria, Hungary, etc). It was only by a slow process of elimination that somebody finally suggested England. "Sort of", came the reply. "Cornwall, actually". We guessed wildly at the vintage, but nobody got close to 1993. I have to say that I have tasted many a wine with a far more aristocratic reputation that gave far less enjoyment than this 17 year-old Cornish beauty. The nose was quite complex, with aromas of Cox's Orange Pippin, lime marmalade, kerosene and brioche.The palate was citrus and stone fruit, with a good deal of stoney minerality, almost Riesling-like. Steely dry, but with a depth and richness brought on by years of bottle age - lime marmalade again. It was surprisingly long and complex, and very much alive. Everybody seemed to like it, but I really loved it, so much so that I took the bottle home at the end and enjoyed the last half glass the next day (and it was still lovely). Frankly, this is a wine that I would gladly drink a lot more of - so if anybody reading this happens to have a few bottles lurking in their cellar, please let me know. ;-)  In fact, it was one of the most pleasant wine surprises I can remember, and ranks right up there with the unbelievably good Lohengrin Liebfraumilch 1987 (in a 1 litre bottle) I took to a tasting 4 years ago!

It seems that Wine Circle Secretary David Selby can do no wrong with the amazing selection of wines he brings every week. Usually, they are a lot more "special", but this little gem gave me (and others) much pleasure.

If you are even geekier than me about wine and want to know more about Huxelrebe and Madeleine Angevine, here's a couple of links;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huxelrebe

http://www.winegrowers.info/varieties/Vine_varieties/Madeleine%20Angevine.htm

Happy reading!

   

A real taste of spring (or do I mean summer?), plus one more fabulous Rousillon wine

Well, spring seems to have arrived with a vengeance in the UK. The past few days have been warm and generally sunny, but Saturday saw the arrival of positively Mediterranean weather, with temperatures in the mid-to-high 20's celsius. Mr Blue Sky finally showed his face, with literally not a cloud in sight from dawn until dusk. And although my golf was nothing to write home about, I did come home with face and arms several shades redder than when I left. This fine weather may not last (I hear that temperatures will drop again in a few days) but it has certainly made a change to be bathed in warm sunshine, after the somewhat cool weather we have endured in early spring.

Anyway, apologies for writing about yet another Roussillon wine, but the one I opened this evening (there are now just a couple more to go before all of my new wines are written-up) was a cracker.....

Domaine Sol-Payre Imo Pectore 2006 Cotes du Roussillon

Mourvedre, Syrah and old vine Carignan, aged in barrel for 12 months. The nose is spectacularly complex, with aromas of cherry and bramble fruits steeped in eau de vie, allied to notes of cocoa, sandalwood, leather, tobacco and aromatic spices - a lot of descriptors, I know, but trust me, they are all in there. This wine is clearly the product of some beautifully ripe fruit and masterly barrel ageing. The palate is equally classy and complex, with generous, sweet black fruit flavours complemented by tangy sour cherry and orange peel, whilst subtle notes of garrigue herbs and red meat add savouriness. Ripe, velvety tannins and ample acidity complete the package. Restrained power and elegance are the watchwords. In fact, having already written that the 2007 Cuvée Ater (see my entry of Tuesday 11 May) is the best wine of the current crop from Sol-Payré, I must say that this one compares very favourably. The wines of Domaine Sol-Payré have always been reliably lovely, but it is clear that winemaker Jean-Claude Sol is not happy to rest on his laurels. As with the Ater, this one has raised the quality to a new level. Yet another fantastic wine, and a complete and utter bargain at £13.50.

Tomorrow, I shall post a on a rather lovely 17 year-old English wine(!)
   

Yet more delicious Roussillon wines

Continuing my arduous and brave quest to taste my way through a whole host of new Roussillon wines, here are my thoughts on a couple more, tasted over the last couple of evenings. Neither are profound, but both are testament to what Roussillon is capable of at the "lower" end, when it is doing its own thing and not trying to emulate wines from other regions. This pair are just about as "Roussillon" as you will ever get.

Mas de Lavail Muscat de Rivesaltes 2008

Made from 100% old-vine Muscat A Petit Grains, lightly fortified with grape spirit. If you have ever been lucky enough to enjoy eating fresh muscat grapes (they are often available in French markets and supermarkets in late August) then you won't need me to tell you how delicious they are. And wines don't come much more "grapey" than a fine Muscat de Rivesaltes - and they don't come any better than this little cracker. The nose offers a riot of (you guessed it) grapey aromas, with notes of lime marmalade and clementines. The palate is both mouth-filling and super-fresh, like munching on a handful of grapes, but with an ethereal, marmalade-y richness. The inherent natural acidity and slight pithiness of the Muscat grape are complemented perfectly by just the right amount of fortifying grape spirit. To be honest, I have rarely tasted a bad Muscat de Rivesaltes (with such wonderful raw material, that would be difficult) but some cheaper examples can be a bit too hot for their own good. Not this one, though. - it manages to be both rich and mouth-watering at the same time, whilst the grape spirit adds a refreshing tanginess, rather than heat. Young Muscat de Rivesaltes is never profound, although I've heard tell that if you are brave enough to age it for 10 or 15 years, it can be. But why wait, when it tastes this good at less than 2 years old? It is utterly lovely - and very long, too. In all my years, I've yet to taste a better one. Yummy! A perfect match for patés, foie gras, cheeses of all descriptions, with fresh fruit, or as a delicious aperitif. A bargain at £11.50.

Domaine Sol-Payré Tradition 2008 Cotes du Roussillon

50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 30% Carignan, aged in vat. Medium ruby red colour with a light-ish rim. The nose offers enticing aromas of cherries, stewed plums and raspberries. Notes of herby garrigue and red capsicum, combined with a touch of meatiness, add savoury nuances. The palate is loaded with fresh, juicy red cherry and raspberry fruit flavours, again with some savoury/meaty notes. All of that flavour, combined with a healthy dash of tangy acidity and just the right level of tannin makes for a wine that is deliciously drinkable already. There may even be the merest hint of spritz, which serves only to lift it further above the ordinary. This wine shows just how good Roussillon reds can be at the "lower" end, with an aromatic and flavour profile not a million miles away from really good Cotes du Rhone - but with extra dimensions of freshness and lift. The much-maligned Carignan does more than its fair share to add to the interest and drinkability of this wine. And it actually tastes lovely, even after sampling the delights of the Muscat de Rivesaltes - no mean feat, for a dry red to follow a sweet white! This is yet another winner from one of the most reliable growers on my list. A versatile red wine, to enjoy with roast beef or lamb, roast vegetable dishes, cheese, pasta. £8.95.

 

Right, dinner calls...........

   

I hear summer is on the way..... so why is spring still dragging its feet?

Apart from a warm spell in mid-April, UK temperatures this spring have been disappointing, to say the least. And the weather in Spain wasn't particularly kind to us, when we spent a few days there the other week. I've also heard tell that southern France (not just Languedoc and Roussillon, but Provence too) has seen some weird and unseasonal weather this year - much of it cold. So what of climate change (or global warming, as it used to be termed)?

There was an an interesting special edition of Springwatch on the TV this evening, highlighting the potential impact of climate change on the delicate balance of our native flora and fauna. It was a good watch and, to its credit, didn't attempt to paint a picture of total doom and gloom - some species will find their habitats under threat, whilst other species will thrive under the changing conditions. Whatever the truth behind climate change (is it all down to man, or is it as much down to the natural cycle?) we do seem to be experiencing more extremes of weather than we used to. That said, it could be argued that this year has so far been a bit more "normal", in that we had a fairly long, cold winter and have since "enjoyed" a somewhat changeable spring. So much so that my grapevine seems to be way behind in its development, compared with the same stage in the last few years. The buds normally begin to appear in late March and have usually burst by early-to-mid April. Not that I'm in the habit of recording these things too closely, but by now I would have expected the new shoots to be growing vigorously (to the tune of a few inches per week), whereas they are still progressing at a snail's pace. Here's a picture taken yesterday, of a section of the vine I have trained between the kitchen wall and the garage, which gets maximum exposure to whatever sun we might get.....

Not that I'm too worried, since the fruit (usually lots of it) is of little use for anything other than jelly/jam and the vine is really only ornamental. Frankly it is a bit of a pain to look after, since it needs at least 2 or 3 prunings per summer, in order to keep it under control and avoid it pulling the house down! At least other things are starting to grow well, though, as we arrive at what is traditionally my favourite time of year. The Wisteria is just beginning to flower and will soon be in full bloom, whilst the Clematis at the top of the garden seems to climb higher and higher each year up the large tree planted in the school caretaker's garden on the other side of the wall. For just a few brief months each spring, it really is a glorious sight - and a glorious scent, too. Here's another photo of the sight that greets me as I turn onto the drive.....

Anyway, climate change or not, I'm going to be optimistic about this year. Despite the reluctance of the Met Office to make any sort of prediction about the weather for the forthcoming summer (they've got it so badly wrong in recent years, it is hardly surprising) I have a feeling in my water that this summer is finally going to be that barbeque summer that we've all been waiting for. Remember 1976? Cold winter, awful spring, snow in early June? Look what happened after that..........

Just remember, you read it here first. ;-)

 

Two more Roussillon wines - a full-bodied dry white and a stunning sweet red

Mas de Lavail is a grower whose wines I have been listing for several years now, though my stocks of their wines had dwindled to virtually zero by the middle of last year. But following another visit to the estate in July 2009, together with a stop-by at their stand at Vinisud in February 2010, it was clear to me that the standard of their range of wines just gets better and better. Here are my notes on a couple of them, tasted over the last 2 days.

Mas de Lavail Le Sud 2008 Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes

Very pale gold colour with a water rim. The nose is intensely fragrant, combining grape, apple and stone fruit aromas, with notes of honeysuckle, marmalade, orange blossom, herbs and spices and creamy, smoky oak. It's a very complex nose, for such a young wine. The palate is equally intense and extremely full-bodied, rich and expressive - and equally complex. The flavours are of spiced fruit salad laced with Calvados, with some distinctly herbal notes (think fennel, oregano). There's a healthy lick of acidity, which provides a nice counter to the rich, almost tangy marmalade mid palate and the long, warming finish. You often read that a wine "wears its alcohol well", by way of mitigating a perceived drawback. But this wine wears its 14.5% abv proudly on its sleeve. It isn't a quaffer, it is a food wine (perhaps chicken or pork, or fish with a herby sauce) and is not for the faint-hearted. It is undoubtedly big and rich and packed with flavour, but for all that power, it is curiously elegant and quirky - and very lovely. I think it will be a keeper, too - watch it develop over the next 5 or more years. Shame I only bought a few cases! £14.50.

Mas de Lavail Expression 2008 Maury

Made from 100% old vine Grenache, harvested at the peak of maturity, the grapes are given a long maceration, followed by "mutage" (the addition of a small amount of grape brandy) which halts fermentation and retains some of the grape sugars. The colour is densely purple and opaque, with a tiny, vivid pink rim. The nose is all about dark fruits of both the fresh and dried varieties. Bramble and blackcurrants, cherries and prunes steeped in eau de vie mingle with dark chocolate, forest floor and cedar wood. The palate is a riot of intensely sweet, concentrated fruit, combining tangy black cherries, stewed brambles, cassis and prunes, with a hint of Seville orange marmalade. Notes of molasses and dark chocolate add an intense richness, like liquid Christmas cake. And through it all runs an enticing, refreshing streak of acidity. I guess there are some healthy tannins in there somewhere, but the balance and the richness render them almost unnoticeable. This wine is so delicious and so more-ish that I simply cannot fault it. And although it is so lovely now, I can only see it getting better and better for at least a decade, perhaps a lot longer. I took it along to a blind tasting at Nottingham Wine Circle, where it compared more than favourably to the Graham's 1977 Vintage Port that followed. The Port was superb (and so it should be) but the Maury showed magnificently. And at just 16% abv - as opposed to the 20% of the Port - this gently fortified wine provides the sort of balance and freshness that Port can rarely (if ever) attain. Food pairings would include rich puddings (even with chocolate) or fruitcake, raspberry sorbet, cheese, or even as an accompaniment to duck with cherry sauce. And when Christmas comes around, it is the perfect match for mince pies. Better still, just enjoy it on its own.  Vintage Maury is truly one of the world's best and most underrated sweet red wine styles - and this is a truly exceptional example, and a steal at £14.95.

  

What a difference a day makes

Well, it has been a pretty eventful day. As we all know, some pretty extraordinary things have been going on in the world of UK politics. But wherever my own sympathies may lie, this is predominantly a wine blog, so I'm happy to let them remain (a not particularly well-kept) secret. 

But I can't avoid commenting on the failure of my beloved Nottingham Forest Football Club to reach the Championship play-off final, with what seemed to be a pretty limp second leg, second half capitulation at home to Blackpool. The final aggregate score, after a total of 180 minutes of football was Forest 4 - Blackpool 6. So near, yet so far. A few months ago, Forest looked certain to go on and clinch automatic promotion to the Premiership, but some very poor away form in 2010 put paid to that. The play-offs provided a second chance, but proved a hurdle too far for what is still a very young and essentially inexperienced side. Never mind - after all, it's only a game, and there is always next season. The experience the squad will have gained and the hard lessons they have learned from this campaign will surely stand them in good stead for next season and help them to see it through to the end. Listening to tonights match on the radio, it was nice to hear the Forest fans applauding their team off the pitch at the end and - perhaps more importantly - also applauding the Blackpool team, who clearly deserved the win. Good luck to them in the final.

But let's get back to wine. Having been rather ill over the weekend, I was feeling a bit better by Monday night, so I thought I'd ease myself gently back into the swing by tasting another of my new Roussillon wines. I have to admit that it took me a while to begin to appreciate the charms of this wine. Perhaps it was just that my senses had taken a battering over the previous few days and I wasn't physically able to assess it properly. Or maybe it just needed time (in this case, a full 24 hours) to show its true colours. Whatever the case, what a difference a day made..........

Domaine Sol-Payré Cuvée Ater 2007 Cotes du Roussillon 

This is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, aged for 1 year in oak barrels. It has an almost opaque blood red core, with a narrow light purple rim. The rich, bramble, cherry and plum aromas typical of previous vintages are all present and correct. But it's not just about the fruit - there's a whole lot more going on here, with subtle cedar, leather and tobacco aromas, courtesy of very skilful oak-ageing, along with some enticingly meaty, savoury elements lurking in the background. Many of these elements take some time to emerge (in fact, it really does come into its own on day 2) but they are worth waiting for, because this a truly impressive and considerably complex wine. It oozes class, though in a restrained, almost elegant (rather than overt) way. Not that it lacks power - far from it - but the luscious yet tangy red and black fruit flavours and those savoury elements, combined with fine, chocolatey tannins and just the right level of acidity, all seem to add up to something much more than the sum of its parts. The finish is long and spicy. It is already a delight to drink now, although the fact that it shows so brilliantly on the second day marks it out as a wine that should age and improve superbly, over the next 5 to 8 years, perhaps more. Actually, I detect a subtle shift in style, with this latest vintage - I believe previous vintages have seen some use of American oak barrels, whereas this one seems much more like exclusively French (or at least European) oak. Whatever the answer, this has become my favourite cuvée from Sol-Payré over the years, and this particular vintage may just turn out to be the best one yet. And at £13.50, it is a lot of wine for the money.

   

Gastric flu - not a pleasant experience

I thought I'd got away very lightly with this, having had a bit of stomach trouble a couple of weeks ago. For the best part of a week, my stomach was a bit tender and food was sitting very heavily - I thought perhaps it was the return of an ulcer my doctor had diagnosed a few years back, or (perish the thought) something much worse! Eventually, my little problem subsided and I forgot all about it. About a week ago, my youngest son Daniel went down with a stomach bug, just as we were getting ready for our trip to Spain. TLD then got something very similar whilst we were in Spain and, to cap it all, we arrived home to find older son Alex laid-up with exactly the same thing. Fine, I thought - at least we've all had it now, so it's out of the way. And, of course, my iron constitution meant that I had brushed it off without too much trouble.

Then, at around 4 o'clock yesterday afternoon, my stomach started to feel distinctly, erm, "rumbly". I'll spare you the gory details, which are not fit for a public blog. All I can say is thank heavens for modern sanitation. Very unusually for me, I was in bed by 9 pm - and out of it on numerous occasions through the night, dashing to the bathroom. Dehydration was my biggest worry. I was so thirsty, but was struggling to keep even plain water down. And tea with lemon (my comfort drink of choice, when I'm ill) didn't half taste sour on its way back up! Following one of the longest nights I can remember (you know the sort - you are so tired, but can't stay asleep for more than 10 minutes at a time) I was up at 7 am and contemplating how to get through the rest of the day. Along with the stomach pains, the classic flu symptoms had left me feeling utterly drained and so weak that I could hardly walk up the stairs. By 9 am, I'd had enough, so went back to bed for a few hours and actually managed to get a few hours' sleep. Although I still feel like death warmed-up, at least I'm now managing to keep some fluids down and have even managed to eat a little something. So I guess I'm going to live.

That said, the last thing I feel like doing right now is drinking wine (which of course is what this blog is supposed to be about) but I'm sure I'll be fit as a fiddle in 2 or 3 days and raring to get through the remaining tasting notes for my new wines.

    

A few days in Spain

We´re in Spain at the moment, spending a few days with my sister Liz and her husband John. They have a lovely house near Denia (roughly halfway between Alicante and Valencia) with impressive views of hills and mountains - and a glimpse of the see if you are tall enough. There´s a lovely pool, too - unfortunately, the weather isn´t hot enough to be bathing, and the pool temperature is down to 14C. That said, it is intermittently sunny and nice enough to be sitting outside.

TLD enjoying some sun by the pool

Following our early morning flight, we arrived in good time for lunch at a restaurant in the nearby village of Rafol d'Almunia. Service was efficient and friendly and the food was simple, tasty and plentiful. First came a selection of starters made from fish and potatoes, with salad, aoli and fresh bread. Mains included braised lamb shanks, several fish dishes, entrecote steak and paella. We all had profiteroles for dessert, followed by excellent coffee. The ladies and I shared bottles of red, white and rose wine, whilst John had a couple of beers. And the cost for that little lot? 38 Euros - not each, but in total! I was flabbergasted. I know Spain is cheaper than France and the UK, but to enjoy a 3-course meal, plus more wine than we could resonably drink over a lunchtime, plus coffee, all for less than 10 Euros each is just amazing. I can see why so many Brits come and live out here, if living is so much cheaper than in the UK.

This being a wine blog, I can´t write without commenting on the wines we had. The white was Vino de La Tierra de Castilla Viñapeña Airen. I know Airen has a bad reputation as the most widely-planted white variety in Spain (possibly the world), but it was actually OK - fruity, lemony, herbaceous and refreshing. In fact, quite Sauvignonesque. The red was Vino de La Tierra de Castilla Viñapeña Tempranillo, which was full of cherry and raspberry fruit, with nice acidity and soft tannins - simple, but very typical of the grape variety. The rose (sorry, but I can't work out how to do an acute accent on this European keyboard) was Bodegas Ayusc Rosado Abadia del Reble. Potent, very slightly oxidative, with aromas and flavours of baked redcurrants and apples. It was curiously enjoyable. In fact, I may never again blog on 3 more un-profound wines, but they hit the spot at this time, and in this place. Sometimes, simple is all you really need.

TLD, John and Liz

Today, we went for a couple of beers at a seaside cafe just up the coast from Denia, followed by a gentle stroll and a quick visit to the shops. I'm typing this inbetween goes at Scrabble, which is doing my concentration no good at all - and I hate losing!

The weather forecast says temperatures in the low-to-mid 20's tomorrow, so we may get to use the pool after all.

    

Some new Roussillon wines

I'm still busy writing tasting notes on lots of new Roussillon wines, before (hopefully) getting an email newsletter out to all of my customers and subscribers next weekend. Not before time, I might add, since I have yet to publicise the last lot of new wines from La Marfée and Mas Foulaquier, never mind these latest wines. I must do better! Meanwhile, here's some notes on 3 wines I've been tasting this week.

Domaine Sol-Payré Cuvée Ivresse de Sens 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages

A lovely transluscent ruby/blood red core, fading gently to a wide rim. The nose has complex aromas of poached bramble and strawberry, garrigue herbs and orange peel, leather and older oak (i.e. with a suggestion of cedar, rather than vanillin). Lurking in the background, there are some meaty, savoury notes, along with a hint of red capsicum, giving the wine an almost (dare I say it) Bordeaux-like profile(!) The savouriness on the palate, though, is maritime Roussillon through and through - after all, Elne, where this wine is grown, is barely 10km from the sea, and those sea mists can often reach this far inland. But there's plenty of fruit, toowith more in the way of red fruit than black (notably cherry and redcurrant) which combine beautifully with the savoury elements. Soft tannins and decent acidity make for a typical (of this cuvée) complete the package, in a wine that has a deliciously sweet and sour quality. It is very drinkable now, but undoubtedly has the structure to evolve nicely over the next 3 to 5 years. A classy wine. £10.99.

Domaine Treloar La Terre Promise 2008 Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes

50% Grenache Gris, 30% Macabeu, 20% Carignan Blanc, fermented and aged for a year in oak barrels. A medium-hued, shiny gold colour, with pale orange glints. This is a considerably complex mix of tree fruits, citrus, minerals and creamy/toasty oak. It is hard to pick out the individual fruits, but there is a suggestion of apple, peach and orange zest, with a real hint of nuttiness. Although clearly made in a very slightly oxidative style (think old-style Rioja) it really is super-fresh and clean as a whistle. The palate is nutty and rich, with those complex fruit flavours combining beautifully with the oak, with just a hint of oak tannin. There is a refreshing streak of citrus and apple acidity and subtle hints of spice, reminiscent of apple pie spiked with cinnamon and cloves. Although quite rich, it is never more than medium-to-full bodied, with a long, spicy finish. It is a joy to drink now, but I also feel it has genuine ageing potential, over the next 5 or even 10 years. It is a cracker, and even better than the excellent 2007. An absolute steal at £12.50.

Domaine Treloar Motus 2007 Cotes du Roussillon

80% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache, aged for 24 months in oak barrels. An almost opaque, deep purple colour with a tiny rim. The nose has masses of bramble fruits and blueberries, with toasty oak. There is a lot of other stuff going on in the background, too - polished leather, exotic spices, coffee and chocolate and an attractive hint of orange peel. It sounds full-on, and it is, but it is classy, with a certain amont of elegance. The palate is crammed full of fresh, vibrant fruit, with intense, juicy acidity and a rasp of mouth-puckering but fine-grained tannin. As the nose suggests, it is rich and spicy, but all the while suggesting elegance and restrained power, rather than being a bruiser - it caresses the taste buds, rather than assaulting them. It is very long, too, with a mouth-watering sweet and sour finish. Having said that, this is a wine that really demands time in bottle. It has considerable structure, but the oak is quite dominant at present, and will take a few years to really integrate. Nevertheless, it is a very fine wine, and those with the patience to age it for 10 or even 15 years will be richly rewarded. £14.50.

Now I'm off to visit my sister in Spain for a few days. Depending on Internet access, I'll try and post some thoughts in a couple of days - but I hear the weather is going to be lovely, so it may be difficult to drag myself away from the pool!
      

The good, the bad and the ugly - "Real Wines" at Les Caves de Pyrène (part 3)

This is the final one of my write-ups from the recent "Real Wines" tasting, hosted by Les Caves de Pyrène in London - mostly from Italy, and there were some mightily impressive wines - not to mention a handful of mightily faulty ones....... Once again, the prices shown are the advertised trade prices (so add on a few quid - plus VAT - for possible retail prices);

Zidarich, Friuli

Carso Vitovska 2007 (£19.55) - Nutty, honeyed, lemon and stone fruit nose. Full-bodied and classically-styled, but not particularly complex.

Carso Malvasia 2006 (£19.55) - A fair dollop of oak on the nose, with floral and buttermint notes. Rich and quite serious. It is a big wine and probably a bit too big for my delicate palate(!) Needs food

Carso Terrano 2007 (£19.55) - Smells like a red Rhone - intense cherry, raspberry and bramble aromas, augmented by creamy oak. The palate is very contrary, as it hits you with a huge rasp of acidity, sour cherry and spangles. It is somewhat savoury, too, but the sourness (not always a problem for me) is a bit too intense. Needs tomatoes/pizza to show its best, I think.

Dario Princic, Friuli

I've tasted one or two wines from this grower on a couple of previous occasions and I have to admit that it took me a while tobegin to understand them. Again, the word "contrary" springs to mind, and it is that very contrariness (is there such a word?) that makes them so interesting. In most instances, the nose suggests sweet, but the palate always says dry.

Vino Bianco Ribolla Gialla 2005 (£18.95) - What a lovely nose! An array of dried white fruits, spring flowers, tea, orange blossom and classy, very subtle oak. The palate is indeed very dry, but oh-so complex, with myriad fruit and tertiary flavours and a hint of toffee.

Vino Bianco Jakot 2007 (£18.95) - The name is actually "Tokaj" spelt backwards, although the grape variety is Pinot Gris. So perhaps (being pedantic) it should be "Yakot".... Anyway, whatever the name, it has a simply glorious nose of sweet, crystallised fruits - a sweet nose, indeed. The palate is of course bone dry, but full of complex fruit flavours and very long.

Vino Bianco Pinot Grigio 2007 (£18.95) - Turkish delight, flowers, vanilla and stone fruits, with an interesting note of gravy/meat stock. The palate is rich but dry, complex and hedonistic. Very contrary and very lovely.

Incidentally, as this tasting was held in the middle of the embargo on air travel, due to the eruption of the Icelandic volcano, very few growers were able to be present, so most growers' wines were presented/poured by various Caves de Pyrene staff, including the Princic wines. I have it on good authority that Princic's wines are "natural" wines (to qualify as natural wines, the amount of SO2 added at the bottling stage must be no more than 10mg per litre and preferably zero). However, the member of staff who was pouring told me that he believes that some SO2 (whatever the quantity) is added at bottling. Whichever happens to be the case, I have to take my hat off to Mr Princic for managing to perform this balancing act with such skill, for these wines were all completely stable and fresh as a daisy, despite the fact that they may well have been open for some time.

Dario Princic - they look cloudy (and they are) but they are delicious!
(And they are made from white/gris grapes, by the way)

Frank Cornelissen, Sicilia

Here is another confirmed maker of "natural" wines, but they couldn't have been more different. As with Princic, I have tasted Cornelissen wines on a couple of previous occasions. The first one was somewhat unstable - and quirky in the extreme - but really rather enjoyable. The second one (which happened to be the exact same cuvée) was little short of vinegar. Therefore, I was eager to taste the range and give them a fair hearing, rather hoping that the bad bottle was just a one-off. Unfortunately, this proved not to be the case. There were some good wines, but also some disasters......

Munjebel Bianco 4 Vino di Tavola NV (but from the 2007 vintage) (£20.35) - On the nose, some attractive aromas of orange marmalade, flowers and minerals. On the palate, starting tangy, followed by an unpleasant bitterness, and very much on the turn. Not very enjoyable.

Munjebel Bianco Vino di Tavola NV (from the 2009 vintage - not on the list, but served from under the table, so presumably not yet commercially available) - The nose is interesting. Yeasty, lemony, floral, with a hint of rhubarb and vanilla custard. Very light on the palate and again quite bitter. It is interesting, rather than enjoyable, and I wouldn't fancy trying to keep it too long.

Rosso del Contadino 5 Vino di Tavola NV (but from the 2007 vintage) (£11.45) - Reeks of volatile acidity. Hugely tannic, savoury but not fruity, with a tarry finish. So volatile, it was turning to vinegar.

Rosso del Contadino Vino di Tavola NV (from the 2009 vintage - another wine from under the table) - Much fruitier, but so tannic. Spicy and very tangy. Interesting, but I wouldn't trust it to keep.

Mujebel Rosso 4 NV (not sure which year) (£23.95) - This is much better, but so on the edge that I fear for its storing (never mind ageing) ability. Again, a huge rasp of VA, like raspberry vinegar. Curiously enjoyable to drink now - but it must be now.

Mujebel Rosso 2008/09 (yet another wine from under the table) - A dark rosé colour. Soft, baked red fruits on the nose, almost jammy (hot vintage?) The palate is soft, but there's a lot of tannin - surprisingly, given the colour - and warm/hot alcohol. Not smooth, but interesting nevertheless.

Magma Rosso 2006 (£109.75) - Yes, you read the price correctly (the trade price, don't forget). Apparently, Mr Cornelissen sets the price of this wine so highly in order to keep the prices of his other wines so low(!) The nose is fabulous, with a list of aromas from A to Z. In fact, it reminds me of a really fine old Burgundy, in some respects. In the mouth, it starts off almost sweet, and absolutely full of fruit, with additional notes of heavily roasted coffee and armagnac. It is tremendously long, warm and spicy, not so much like a fortified wine as a spirit (it is neither - it is a table wine). I really liked this wine, although I'll never be able to afford to buy it. Impressive.

Magma Rosso 2008 (yet again, from under the table) - This is almost water by comparison. Fruity, but so tannic and harsh. Oh dear.

Frank Cornelissen - a variable bunch of wines, to say the least

Cos, Sicilia

Rami Bianco 2008 (£10.95) - Tangy, pithy, orange and honey. Bone dry, but with a lot of fruit. Nice.

Pithos Bianco 2008 (£13.95) - Dark gold colour and a bit pongy, perhaps even a bit unstable. Bone dry ,but rich on the palate. Honey, crystallised fruits and marmalade. Actually very nice, but I feel it needs drinking fairly quickly.

Frappato 2008 (£10.95) - Bramble and tar, with hints of orange (I like that in a red wine). Super clean on the palate, fresh, with lovely acidity and fine tannins. Refreshing and delicious.

Nero di Lupo 2008 (£11.80) - Raspberry and mint on this one. Richer, deeper flavours, with more grip, but still beautifully fresh and lovely.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2007 (£12.95) - Traditional, almost Bordeaux-like nose, with notes of cedar/oak. Soft fruits, ample acidity and soft tannins. Despite its similarities to Bordeaux, it is really rather delicious!

Pithos Rosso 2008 (£13.60) - Citrus fruits, red berries, forest floor and a hint of mushroom. This one is almost Barolo-like. The palate is fruity and quite rich, but nicely zesty. But will it keep?

Syre 2005 (£19.85) - This one is rich and (sorry to keep comparing) almost Rhone-like, being spicy, grippy, with bags of dark fruit and chocolate flavours. Very long.

Maldafrica 2007 (not listed - another special addition) - Baked fruits and oak vanillin. Strong, with lots of sweet fruit, but very tannic and almost like a fortified wine. This is entirely different in profile to the rest of the Cos range, and I'm not sure it is a good addition. It is too much of a bruiser.

Cos - almost all delicious

A couple of other Italian wines worthy of note (I didn't taste each grower's whole range);

Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito 2000 (£38.85) - Perfumed, floral (notably violets), with a soft, velvety palate, but deceptively powerful and rich. I loved it.

AA Panevino Tankadeddu Rosso 2008 (£14.65) - Fruit, flowers, spices, pepper and violets. Super clean and not mucked about with. Soft, velvety, sweet red fruits and excellent balance.

And finally, a couple of Portugese wines that seemed to beckon me.....

Afros Loureiro Vinho Verde Blanco 2009 (£8.00) - Fresh, zippy, zingy and full of stone and citrus fruit flavours and a refreshing spritz.

Afros VinhaoVinho Verde Tinto 2009 (£8.70) - Yummy! I have never seen such a purple wine - it is so purple as to be navy blue, almost black. It was absolutely crammed full of bramble fruits, with some interesting savoury notes, like beef gravy. Oh, and citrus and sweet/sour cranberry. Sounds interesting? It was. Rich but zesty, fruity and spicy. To be drunk young, whilst it still retains all of that vitality and youthfulness. What a lovely wine!

Afros Vinhao Vinho Verde Tinto 2009 - just look at that colour!
   

The good, the bad and the ugly - "Real Wines" at Les Caves de Pyrène (part 2)

Continuing my short series of write-ups from the recent "Real Wines" tasting, hosted by Les Caves de Pyrène in London, here are some notes on a few other French growers. Remember, the prices shown are the advertised trade prices (so add on a few quid - plus VAT - for possible retail prices);

Domaine Albert Mann, Alsace
Riesling Tradition 2008 (£10.10) - A nose of mandarin oranges, flowers and stony minerality. There's a lot of residual sugar and I'm not really sure about the lack of real acidity. It seems blowsy, but then again it is young, so perhaps it will all knit together eventually.
Pinot Gris Tradition 2008 (£12.05) - Rich, sweet, oaky. Nice weight and excellent balancing acidity. This is really good - and long. I liked it a lot.
Pinot Gris Cuvée Albert 2008 (£13.75) - Again, quite oaky. Lemon and marmalade aromas and flavours, but it is a touch rich and cloying for my palate. I much preferred the Tradition.
Gewurztraminer Tradition 2008 (£12.90) - Simple turkish delight aromas and flavours. A bit sickly for my taste. Then again, I'm not a huge fan of the variety - I'm still searching for the holy grail of a Gewurz with zingy acidity to counter all those flowery, sugary notes.

Domaine Pierre Frick, Pfaffenheim
I tried a couple of these wines, purely because somebody told me how oxidised they were. I say "tried", since I did not actually taste them - they all appeared to be rather dark in colour, and one sniff was enough to tell me I shouldn't taste them. This grower is obviously one of those making so-called "natural wines" - some of them even proudly describe themselves on the labels as "sans soufre". Which says everything about the perils of using zero sulphur. To be fair (I really am searching hard for something good to say) these particular bottles may well have been open since the day before, but I've rarely found any white wine that has gone truly "off" overnight. There is every possibility that these wines were very good on the day they were actually bottled. It's just a shame they (or at least the ones I sniffed) had such a short life.

Domaine Jean Foillard, Morgon
Morgon Classique 2008 (£11.45) - Light, fruity and elegant, though not serious.
Morgon Cote de Py 2008 (£15.70) - This is altogether bigger, more extracted, with grapeskins, beef and leather on the nose. The palate is more elegant than the nose, medium-to-full bodied, with lots of fruit, but also quite a lot of tannin. Needs time, but a very good wine for the medium term.
Morgon Cuvée 3.14 2007 (no price given - this was an extra addition to the tasting, but not listed) - Presumably, this is a play on numbers/words - 3.14 being Pye (as opposed to Py). It is rich, extracted and powerful, but nevertheless very elegant. A keeper - give it a few years and it could be quite special. I like these wines - serious Beaujolais.

Maison Philippe Pacalet, Gevrey
Gevrey-Chambertin 2008 (£36.95) - Is it me, or do I again detect "natural"? It smells strongly of candied fruit and sugar - or is it too heavily chaptalised?. I found it unforgiving and charmless.
Gevrey-Chambertin ier Cru Bel Air 2008 (£54.60) - More perfumed, but not in a recognisable Pinot way. Not for me.
Puligny-Montrachet 2008 (£45.55) - I didn't write anything for this wine. I guess I was similarly unimpressed.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2008 (£55.15) - This is more like it. Spicy, rather than fruity. Good acidity and grip, although I found it flowery, with not a lot in the way of primary fruit. Interesting.....
Gevry-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 2008 (£60.50) - This smells jammy and tastes jammy, with a streak of bitterness. Or perhaps I'm just having an off day. I have heard good (nay, great) things about this grower's wines, from a couple of friends whose palates I respect. Then again, they weren't tasting the 2008's. Was 2008 that bad a year, or was I having a bad day? Or do I just not like this grower's house style? As the saying goes, it's Burgundy, Jim, but not as we (or at least I) know it.
    
Tomorrow, I'll finish off my report with notes on some really brilliant (and a few awful) Italian wines.
       
   

The good, the bad and the ugly - "Real Wines" at Les Caves de Pyrène (part 1)

"Real Wines" was the title of this trade event, held on 19 and 20 April in London, designed to showcase several hundred wines from what seems like merely a fraction of the growers now listed by Les Caves de Pyrène. This particular importer specialises in biodynamic and organic growers, with a good many falling in the "natural" category (although I - and presumably the growers - use that term fairly loosely). Many of the wines were wacky and weird. Some were really good, even excellent, whilst some were merely OK - and others were just plain bad. I'll try not to spout on about the bad ones too much, since I have more than a little admiration for the philosophy of the buyers at Les Caves de Pyrène - namely, to seek out new and interesting growers who are pushing the boundaries of winemaking (or "pushing the envelope", as some like to put it) and trying to make their wines in a non-interventionist (or "natural") way.

It was a long day, and there were an awful lot of wines on offer, so I didn't get the chance to taste through all of them. I guess I must have tasted around 100 altogether. Mostly, they were the wines I had heard good things about or wines I had already tasted and enjoyed on previous occasions, plus a few stabs in the dark. I'll post the notes not in the order I tasted, but in the order they appeared in the tasting booklet. There are too many to fit into a single post, so I'll spread them out over 3 entries. We'll begin with southern France. Prices shown are the advertised trade prices (so add on a few quid - plus VAT - for possible retail prices);

Domaine du Pech, Buzet

Vin de Table Le Pech Abusé 2004 (£10.35) - Cherries and meat stock nose. Rich black fruit palate - bramble and blackcurrant. Spicy, with decent acidity. Very tannic, but with loads of fruit. Needs food.

Domaine Elian de Ros, Cotes du Marmandais

Clos Baquey 2006 (£20.15) - Deep colour. Lifted aromas of summer fruits and a touch of cedar. Rich, dark fruits on the palate ,with stout tannins, but great balancing acidity. Needs food, but a really good wine. At that price, though, it should be.

Clos Lapeyre, Jurançon

Jurançon Sec 2008 (£8.55) - Displays bitterness, rather than the trademark Jurançon acidity. Not for me.

Vitatge Vielh de Lapeyre 2006 (£11.40) - Nicer, but still lacks freshness. Rich, but ultimately harsh.

Jurançon Vent Balaguer 2005 (£41.85 for 50cl) - Barley sugar and botrytis(?) Uber-rich, with lovely acidity and fabulous sweetness. Orange marmalade, lemon, toffee, tea, ginger and spice. Massive structure and very long and spicy. A wonderful wine. Then again, it needs be, since it is bound to retail at well over 50 quid for the 50cl bottle.

Clos du Gravillas, St Jean de Minervois

Minervois Blanc l'Inattendu 2008 (£14.95) - Toasty, coconutty oak and stone fruits. Rich and long, with notes of liquorice and sweet candied fruits. Very good stuff.

Soux Les Cailloux des Grillons 2008 (£8.75) - Rich and very ripe, but nicely balanced and winey. Pastille fruit, herbs and spices. It's lovely already, but give it 3 more years.

Domaine Matassa, Cotes du Roussillon

Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes Blanc 2007 (£24.20) - Smells of sulphur, like a struck match. It is trying to smell fruity, but failing. Rich, even fiery, and a bit volatile. Not my cup of tea.

Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes Blanc 2008 ("POA") - Oak and more oak. But not much in the way of fruit. Bitter lemon pith flavour. Oh dear.

Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes Rouge Romanissa 2006 (£15.70) - A hint of soft red fruit, but there is also a touch of bitterness. Tannic and extracted, although I feel it may be interesting in a few years.

Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes Rouge Romanissa 2007 ("POA") - Sulphur. Soft, pastilley fruit again, but still a bit astringent. The jury is out on this one, too.

Domaine d'Auphilac, Montpeyroux

Coteaux de Languedoc Montpeyroux 2006 (£10.95) - A curious hint of gloss paint on the nose. The palate is lovely, though, with soft red and black fruits, spice and garrigue herbs. Plenty of tannin, but nicely balanced. One to keep.

Les Servieres Vin de Pays de l'Hérault 2009 (£8.35) - Pastille fruits and lifted aromas. Super-ripe, super-rich and super-modern. Seems like there's some added acidity here, but it is not enough to redeem what is essentially a sweet and over-extracted wine.

Domaine Hauvette, Les Baux de Provence

Mas Hauvette, Coteaux des Baux (£19.40) - Raisiny and baked, almost like a 2003. Perhaps this bottle was on its second day but, nevertheless, this seems like a very tired wine. Why are they still selling the 2004 vintage?

Who is this man that keeps appearing in my photos?!

The tasting room, with Bernard looking eager to get on with some serious tasting

Tomorrow, I'll post further notes on some wines from Alsace and Burgundy. Following that, I'll do Italy. Meanwhile, it's Saturday morning, so I'm off to play golf!

   

A delicious sticky from Portugal

Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion To Wine states that “colheita” is a Portuguese word meaning “crop” or “harvest” and, by extension, “vintage”. This is made from 100% Moscatel de Setúbal (more commonly known as Muscat of Alexandria). The fermentation is stopped at a certain level of sweetness, by the addition of grape spirit. At just 17.5% abv, I assume that only a relatively small amount of spirit is used – which is just how I like my fortified wines. The grape skins are then left to macerate in the wine for up to 6 months, which adds a grapey freshness, not to mention intense aromas and flavours. Up to 5 years’ ageing in barrel adds richness and makes for an ever-so-slightly oxidative style of wine, with a definite marmalade tang.

Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal Colheita 2003

Aged for 3 years in small oak barrels, this wine is simply beautiful on the eye – a limpid amber/gold colour with a definite pink rose tinge. The nose offers an absolute riot of aromas, including (but by no means limited to) orange marmalade, lime zest, roses, tea, toffee apple, apricot and a sprinkling of herbs. The palate is rich and honeyed and coats the mouth with complex, multi-layered flavours of marmalade, ginger, toffee, citrus and all manner of preserved white fruits. Some less skilfully-made fortified Muscats can be a little cloying, with the acidity masked by excess grape spirit, resulting in alcoholic burn. But this one is so beautifully balanced that everything comes together in a wine that I’m finding hard to fault, with plenty of acidity to match the luscious sweetness. The result is a very rich but remarkably refreshing wine, which is devilishly drinkable. There is a distinct tangy, almost sweet and sour quality that almost puts me in mind of a 5 or even 6 Puttonyos Tokaji. In fact, if you were to age this for another 5 to 10 years (if you can resist, that is) you might even mistake it for one – it is that good. Whilst 2003 was a very difficult vintage for dry wines and indeed for many naturally sweet or late-harvest wines, it clearly posed no such problems for makers of fortified wines. And this is a glorious example of its kind – not to mention an amazing bargain. This was a sample bottle given to me by a local wine merchant friend and I may well add it to my list, at around £11.95. Watch this space….

  

A lovely evening of wines from Domaines Ott

Here’s the report I promised you on the tasting held earlier this week at the Nottingham Wine Circle. Our friend Mike Lane was actually on holiday recently near Narbonne, which (if you know your geography) is a long way from Bandol. Nevertheless, he and a friend made the 450+ mile round trip in a day, purely to visit Domaines Ott and taste through the range of wines from the three different estates which bear the Ott name. As far as I am concerned, it was well worth it. We tasted 14 different wines, including no less than 6 rosés……

Some of the wines in the line-up (sorry for the poor quality - I only had my mobile phone to hand)

White

Les Domaniers 2008 Côtes de Provence

10 % Rolle, 90% Semillon. Citrus fruits, peaches and minerals on the nose. Apples and spring flowers, too. Quite rich, but zingy with it. If I had a criticism, it is a little hollow in the middle, but a nice wine to start with, nevertheless. €9.95.

Clos Mireille 2007 Côtes de Provence

30% Rolle, 70% Semillon.Very perfumed on the nose, with hints of talc and flowers. Somebody mentioned lavender, and we all agreed - this is Provence, after all, so for the scents of the countryside to come through in the wine shouldn't come as a surprise. I even detected hints of olive oil on the nose. The palate was again fairly rich, with citrus fruits and hints of apples and herbs. Delicate and elegant and really rather nice. I didn't note the price, but this retails for about £20 in the UK.

Rosé

Les Domaniers 2008 Côtes de Provence60% Grenache, 40% Cinsault. A nose of vanilla and crème brûlée, with subtle hints of herbs and red fruits. A soft entry on the palate, with lovely sweet red fruits and nice acidity. Lovely rosé. €9.95.

Clos Mireille Cœur de Grain 2008 Côtes de Provence

A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. This has more of everything, being richer, more powerful and more flavoursome. Whether that makes it a more enjoyable wine to drink is up for discussion. The previous wine was just so enjoyable to drink now, although maybe in a more immediate and less structured way. This one probably needs another year or two in bottle to show its true promise. €22.05.

Château Romassan Cuvée Marine 2008 Bandol

10% Grenache, 75% Cinsault, 15% Mourvedre, aged in oak for 2 months. Ultra-pale onion skin colour. More muted on the nose than the previous wine, or perhaps just more subtle - but definitely more complex. Indeed, it is almost like a white Burgundy in structure, with flavours of mineral, peach and citrus. Long and complex and lovely. €21.33.

Château Romassan Cœur de Grain 2008 Bandol

A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvedre, although the percentages aren't specified. Ultra-pale colour again. A nose of herbs and spices (Lincolnshire sausages, curiously enough) and also quite biscuity, almost reminiscent of an aged Champagne. The palate is more in the way of red fruits, like cherries and redcurrants. Also quite spicy and herby. Long and warming and lovely. €22.05.

Château Romassan Cœur de Grain 2006 Bandol

Same blend. Another wine with a nose of vanilla custard. A few of detected a hint of TCA, so it wasn't really possible to make a judgment on this one. It also seemed a touch oxidative. That said, it was hanging on quite well, albeit in an aged sort of way - and I would expect a fine Bandol rosé to age better than this.

Château Romassan Cuvée Marcel Ott 2007 Bandol

Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged 8 months in oak. This again smells (and tastes) almost like a white Burgundy. A touch of very classy, very subtle oak-ageing. This really is a very fine wine, and if I were tasting it (completely) blind, I would be convinced it was a particularly fine white Burg.

Red

Les Domaniers 2007 Côtes de Provence

58% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, 10% Grenache and 12% Mourvedre. Initially quite modern, slightly jammy, almost southern hemisphere. Then you get hints of VA and pepper and tarry oak. The palate is beautifully balanced, fruity ,rich but light on its feet. The more you smell and taste it, the more it seems like a northern Rhone wine. Not a serious wine, but a complete joy to drink. Not sure about the price.

Château Romassan 2005 Bandol

90% Mourvedre and 10% other grapes (not sure which).Soft, almost citrussy fruit. It smells like a Bandol, but is so soft and easy to drink. The colour is only light-to-medium, suggesting a fairly low extraction and (I would guess) complete de-stemming of the grapes. It is subtley oaked, with red and black fruits and notes of cedar. Not typical Bandol, and not built for ageing, but a delight to drink right now. €22.65.

Château Romassan 2004 Bandol

This is fuller and richer and more heavily extracted, with more in the way of oak/cedar..... and perhaps even a touch corked. Seems like there's a good wine in there, but difficult to assess. €22.65.

Château De Selle Côtes de Provence 2003

90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% other grapes. Blackcurrants and cedar, citrus fruit and VA. This is amazingly light and balanced for a 2003. Quite tarry (as are many 2003's), with notes of beef gravy and roses, reminiscent of Barolo. It is also quite similar to my Chateau d'Estoublon Jeune Vignes 2003, which suggests that Cabernet Sauvignon was well-suited to the conditions of the 2003 vintage. I liked this very much. €22.

Château Romassan Longue Garde 2001 Bandol

50% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. Lots of volatile acidity, beetroot, red cabbage, even a bit oxidised. Absolutely full of faults (and perhaps an iffy bottle) but it had plenty of secondary/tertiary flavours and I really liked it, as did some other members of the group. Not cheap, though, at €29.

Château De Selle Longue Garde 2000 Côtes de Provence

90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% other grapes. A riot of violets and smoked sausages, with bags of fruit aromas and flavours. 90% Cab? For all the world, I’m in the northern Rhone with this one. Lovely, soft fruit flavours and relatively low tannins, but it has real underlying structure, with excellent acidity. A glorious wine, which is perfect to drink now.

We finished off with a more traditional, aged Bandol, kindly provided by David Selby, our ever-generous group Secretary.

Domaine Tempier La Tourtine 1995 Bandol

Again, this is very northern Rhone in style, which is actually what I have come to expect from aged Tempier wines. Salty, meaty, a touch bretty perhaps, but also very floral, with distinct notes of violets and lilies – yet it is mostly Mourvedre. Rich but balanced, even elegant, with superb underlying acidity. It isn’t quite peaking yet, but is not far off. Long, herby, spicy and complex. A real cracker.

One or two at the tasting were critical of the prices of the Ott wines. Indeed, they are far from cheap, but one must remember that these are the wines of choice of the hordes of rich and famous people who spend their spare time (and lots of money) in the fancy bars and restaurants of the Côte d’Azure. And the rosés are, without doubt, some of the best in the world – if not the best. And whilst the reds seem relatively simple in comparison, they are clearly made in a lighter, easier-drinking style than typical Bandol and Côtes de Provence wines. I guess that when the rosé aficionados fancy a change to something a little darker and fuller, true Bandol (especially at a relatively young age) would be a bit too much. Therefore, these lighter reds hit the spot perfectly.

     

All-in-all, this was a superb tasting. Although (for a variety of reasons) it was less well-attended than most, it was still a bargain. The prices shown are the prices Mike paid for the wines at Domaines Ott, and were, he says, probably lower than the normal everyday cellar door prices. The cost to the attendees was £18 per person, which for wines of such quality was a bit of a bargain.

More than midweek drinking - another superb Languedoc wine

Well, I would say that, wouldn't I? After all, I sell the stuff. But there's no getting away from it, this latest batch of wines I have been busily writing-up for my website over the last few weeks have provided me with immense drinking pleasure. I must admit that writing tasting notes for the website is not something I find easy, especially when there are around a dozen different wines for me to taste and get to know intimately (something that I think is essential if I am selling them). However good they may be, it can actually be very difficult to find ways to convey my thoughts about each individual wines without occasionally feeling like I am repeating myself. Then again, I guess it makes me concentrate even more on the subtelties of each wine and the things that make them different and worthy of contemplation. I just hope that my customers (and readers of this blog) don't think I'm talking waffle all the time. I guess there's only one way to find out - if you live in the UK and have a chance to buy the wines, then do so, and let me know your thoughts. Anyway, this is the last of them, for the time being (before an even bigger batch of wines from my Roussillon growers arrives towards the end of next week) but has exceeded even my expectations for what is after all a reasonably humble wine.

Domaine d'Archimbaud Tradition 2008 Languedoc Saint-Saturnin (£10.50)

The word "tradition" usually indicates a grower's basic wine, and this one is no different. Domaine d'Archimbaud produces two red cuvées; the oak-aged La Robe du Pourpre, which I wrote about a few days ago, and this one, which is aged in vats or "cuves", which tend to be made from concrete lined with epoxy resin - so absolutely no oak influence. At well under two years old, this wine shows a bright, young ruby/blood red colour. The nose is heavy with the scents of sweet briary fruits, red cherries, tar and the almost ubiquitous garrigue herbs, with an intensity and purity which every Languedoc red wine should aspire to. And the palate certainly lives up to the promise of the nose. Whilst rich in fruit, it also possesses a savoury, tangy, sweet and sour quality which coats the mouth and persists for a long time. The rich, robust, warming flavours of the Grenache combine beautifully with the elegance of the Syrah, whilst a small percentage of Mourvedre and Carignan adds even more interest. Indeed, this is a complex wine for the money. And whilst there is ample tannin and acidity, the fruit wins hands down - it is just so drinkable now. Having said that, I am learning more about this sort of wine as the years go by and it is without doubt one that will keep getting better for a good few years yet - 3 to 5, at the very least, and perhaps even more.

I have to admit that, whilst I have been concentrating on (and banging on about the qualities of) my other new wines recently, I had almost forgotten how good the wines of Domaine d'Archimbaud are. I have heard some variable reports about the wines of Virgile Joly (the only other independent grower in the Saint-Saturnin AOC) but in the 3 or 4 years I have been importing the wines of Domaine d'Archimbaud, I have yet to taste an average one. Boy, they are good!

Last night at Nottingham Wine Circle, my friend Mike Lane presented a line-up of wines from Domaines Ott (three separate estates in the Cotes de Provence and Bandol regions). Who would have thought that a line-up which included no less than six different rosés (plus a couple of whites and six reds) could have been so enjoyable and so damn good? I wote some notes on each wine, so I'll post those here in a day or two.