Are Saint-Chinian and La Liviniere amongst the finest appellations in the whole of southern France? I think so. Indeed, the wines from these two hilly and rugged areas of the world's largest and most diverse wine region have built a deserved reputation for quality and individuality that is hard to beat - as are the prices. The following pair of wines are the top cuvées made by their respective growers, and both come in at less than 15 quid. They are the final couple of wines on which I have had to write notes from my most recent shipment - and I have definitely saved the best until last..............
80% Syrah, 20% Grenache (50 year old vines). Part is aged in barrel and part in vat. A deep, blackberry-coloured core with a tiny carmine rim. As with previous vintages of this wine, the nose is wonderfully fragrant and considerably complex, offering aromas of fresh plums, bramble and black cherry, along with that unmistakable hallmark of Syrah grown on the schiste-based Saint-Chinian terroir - garrigue herbs, lilies, violets, black olives and a strong mineral influence. The palate is subtle and balanced, rather than overtly rich, with spice and herb-infused (though not too sweet) bramble, redcurrant and cherry fruit wrapped in a blanket of fine, silky tannins. And you can really taste the earthy, stony minerality, which - in combination with really juicy acidity - provides a firm backbone for the fruit. Add to that the ultra-fine tannins and you have a wine that, although very approachable now, has the capacity to age and evolve gracefully for another 5 to 10 years. Another gloriously elegant wine from this, one of (if not the) greatest estates in the appellation. 14.0% abv. £14.75.
75% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 10% Carignan, aged for 18 months in old oak barrels. A deep, blood red colour, with a narrow ruby rim. Bramble, red cherries and figs in abundance, with further notes of truffle, spices, herbs and polished leather - a very complex nose indeed. Whilst the flavours are at first rich and intense, with extremely ripe fruit flavours, this wine never loses its focus. Concentrated it may be (and at 15% abv, at the top end of the alcohol scale) but it is also beautifully balanced, with ripe tannins and ample acidity. On day 1, it is intensely spicy, warm and grippy, but never disjointed. By day 2 (or even day 3) it is an absolute joy and everything really does come together - fresh as a daisy, with a captivating nose and full of tangy, dark, fruit pie flavours, slightly earthy (though not particularly savoury), herby, with a touch of licorice on the long, sweet and sour finish. It is a completely brilliant expression of Languedoc Syrah and Grenache, with little or no oak influence to get in the way of such glorious fruit. If ever there was a red wine which you should decant a couple of days before drinking, then this is it. And if you do that - or if you age it for another 5 to 10 years - you will be richly rewarded. 15% abv. For a wine of such quality and breeding, this is an absolute steal at £13.99 - but stocks are limited!
As an aside, it occurs to me that your average (or even more elevated) wine writer or journalist may never fully appreciate a wine like this, for they would have a quick sniff and a slurp, write a cursory note and then move onto the next wine. Have you ever seen a note from a writer about how a wine performs after a day or two in the decanter? No - neither have I. Which is a shame, because I think that one of the curious (and rather wonderful) things about wines from Languedoc and Roussillon is that so many of them really do blossom on day 2. In fact, I have been banging on about it for many a year, as my customers and regular website visitors will be aware - and it is to my eternal surprise that no other merchant that I know of offers such commentary on their wines. Then again, I doubt that many of them get to know each wine they sell as intimately as I know mine - if they have even tasted them at all...........
7 comments:
Commercial wine writers exist to sell newspapers and (non-specialist) magazines, not wine. So the detailed analysis you treat us to is never going to happen.
Agreed, Charlie, but I was also referring to writers who aim for a more "discering" readership. Granted, many of them attend countless tastings, with countless wines on offer, and probably have sample bottles filling their kitchens. But if I sent bottles out and suggested they be opened a day or two before tasting, they would probably laugh.
Two good wines for sure. Funnily enough I opened a 2009 St Chinian by Yannick Pelletier, L'Oustelet, yesterday. It was very volatile at first and a little bugundian on the nose but opened up beautifully and gave long last fruit and depth. Excellent. Then I read Rosemary George's blog and she was fairly dismissive of the 2010, which she coincidentally had tasted.
Wholeheartedly agree about the appelation.
When do you head off to France? My mate Jeff's wine was chosen by Le Nouvel Observateur to toast the Queen and Jancis also gave him a favourable mention on Saturday
We leave on 15 June for 2 weeks, Alan. One week in the Ariege (between Toulouse and the Pyrenées and a week in Faugeres. Who is your mate Geoff?
By the way, what is "bugundian"? ;-)
Jeff = jean Francois Coutelou
Burgundian, I mean that earthy smell, almost like manure of old red burgundy
Ah, Coutelou. I have never tasted their wines - perhaps I should.
I know what you mean by "Burgundian" (I occasionally use the term myself for Languedoc wines) but I was referring to your, erm.... typo. I know what a stickler you are for spelling! ;-)
Mea culpa :)
You got me!!
Definitely worth a visit to Coutelou, let me know if you want to go.
Ariege will be different, don't think I've been over there
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