Another rant about wine books

Talk is rife in the wine world at the moment, about how Jamie Oliver's head of wine, Matt Skinner, has admitted to not tasting several wines that he recommends in his latest book, The Juice 2010 (published by Mitchell Beazley). You can read all about the scandal on the Decanter website, along with numerous comments from disgruntled readers. All I can say is, why bother publishing an annual wine guide which simply re-hashes tasting notes from previous vintages numerous wines, whilst brazenly attributing them to the latest (un-tasted) vintage? I'm not sure if it breaks any laws, but it is dishonest in the extreme, and really does bring the world of wine writing (not to mention UK wine book publishers) into disrepute.

On a related note, my friend Peter Gorley is still searching for a publisher for the second edition of his book, Gorley's Guide To The Wines Of Languedoc And Roussillon. Although the book is still intended to focus predominantly on the wines and winemakers of Languedoc and Roussillon (around 250 different growers) for this edition, he has also got together with Anthony Peregrine, who will contribute sections on tourism, history and food. After much effort (and time) they've had no luck with UK or French publishers. A meeting with the powers that be in L/R (including the President himself, Georges Freche) resulted in the offer of one sixth of the 60,000 Euros or so that he would need, in order to publish the book himself. The rest he would need to borrow - which is a route Peter is reluctant to go down, at his time of life. I am still exasperated that the Maison du Languedoc-Roussillon did not see fit to invest such a relatively small sum, at a time when their wine industry could really do with a helping hand to compete with the likes of the Australian Wine Board, who have a seemingly bottomless pit of money to promote their wines.

Anyway, at my suggestion, Peter contacted the University of California Press and recently had a meeting with their wine book editor which, although not entirely unproductive, didn't result in a publishing deal. I'm sure Peter won't mind me relating what he recently told me;

"......If Anthony and I rework our concept....more depth, more history, more culture...then he'd be happy to have another look at it. He's a serious late 30's Senior Editor with an archeological bent, and I feel that our fun but not frivolous (popular?) approach isn't the tone he's looking for. UCPress is of course academically inclined."

I don't have a copy of Peter's first book, but he did send me a bound copy of a special mini-edition, containing 3 of the 12 "routes" from the original book. I have to say that it is far from frivolous - indeed, it is an impressive piece of writing, with excellent photos and maps, plus in-depth profiles of the growers and their wines. There are also a couple of very enthusiastic reviews by Jancis Robinson and Kermit Lynch.

What a shame that such a talented and knowledgeable writer continues to encounter such apathy to a most worthwhile project. All I can say is shame on the UK's main wine book publishers for not getting their hands dirty with real wine books, instead of continuing their policy of churning out re-hashed and regurgitated updates of generic "annual" wine guides.

Highlights from a recent tasting

This week was Le Mistral week, when (as with every last Tuesday in each month) a bunch of wine nuts gathered at Le Mistral restaurant in central Nottingham, for some good food and lots of good wines. And this one was a bit of a cracker, with some really good stuff, all tasted blind. I didn't take notes on all of the wines, but here are some of my favourites.

Billaud-Simon 2000 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu

Struck match, lemon and ice cream, but little oak influence. The palate is generous for a Chablis, but supremely balanced – lovely, minerally fruit and fabulous acidity. Praise be – a Chablis that actually floats my boat!

Chateau Musar 2001 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
My work colleague Richard Mitson brought this. As we were tasting blind, my first thoughts were either white Graves or a traditional white Rioja such as Tondonia, with lots of weird and whacky things going on. Toasty, oaky, struck match aromas and a rich, lemony, minerally palate, with just a hint of tropical fruit. When Richard was asked if it was new world or old world, he wasn’t quite sure how to describe it – which led me straight to Musar. I love this wine, and should certainly drink more of it.

Frank Cornelissen Munjebel 4 2006/7 Etna, Sicilia

This is called ‘4’ because it is the 4th release of this cuvée. It is, strictly speaking, a non-vintage wine, since it is made from grapes from two vintages, although the years 2006 and 2007 are prominent on the label - stretching the rules a bit, perhaps? Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, it is a fine example of what tends to be called "extreme natural winemaking", with the absolute minimum (in most cases zero) intervention in the winemaking process, followed by ageing in large amphorae and bottling without the addition of sulphur. The result is a wine which is indeed natural in the extreme, with lots of volatility, but also incredible fragrance, freshness and not a little complexity. The nose offers complex aromas of cherry, strawberry, acetone, beetroot, farmyard and baked red cabbage (the sort that is adorned with apples, onions and mixed spice). Some of these descriptors perhaps don't sound too inviting on their own, but - when they are all smelt together - they are delicious. Importantly, the main impression is of fruit - and lots of it. The palate has Parma violets, cherry kernel, red berries, lemon sherbert, Oriental spices and a refreshing hint of spritz. All-in-all, this was a truly delicious wine. Andy Leslie (who I think brought it) noted that it started to fall apart rather quickly in the glass (and I would venture that it is not a wine to keep) but it is utterly delicious stuff, to drink right now. Not cheap, at approaching 20 quid, but definitely worth it, in my opinion.

Domaine du Fogolar Collet de Bovis 2005 Bellet

This wine was a bit of a revelation for me. I'd read about the wines of Bellet (a tiny appellation on the fringes of Nice) and assumed that they were nothing special. Not that I'd ever tasted one - until now. This is a beautiful, clear, light ruby red colour. As we were tasting blind, I guessed that it might be a Pinot Noir (and a really good one) with a touch of richness and warmth suggesting southern France. In fact, the grape varieties are two local varieties, Folle Noir and Braquet, together with Grenache and Cinsault. The wine has delicious Pinot-like aromas of roses, wild strawberries and forest floor, with hints of spices and herbs thrown in for good measure. Above all, it is very fragrant, very elegant and very complex. The palate is so silky and lusciously fruity, but with spicy notes, decent tannins and stunning, mouth-watering acidity. A hint of saline (no doubt from the proximity of the sea) adds an interesting savouriness to the red fruit flavours. At 4 years of age, it seems to be drinking really well, but I suspect it has the structure to age nicely for a good few years (as does Chateau Simone, another Provencal wine, to which I would compare this wine most closely). A fabulous wine - ultra clean and ultra lovely!

That's it for today - Match Of The Day is on!

A weekend sampling exercise - a lovely Minervois

It's been a busy couple of days for me - lots of emailing and faxing and transferring of money (plenty of new wines to import ready for the busy Christmas period). So to help me wind down I thought I'd try a second sample bottle of a new vintage I am shortly to receive from my friend Guy Vanlancker in La Liviniere.

Domaine La Combe Blanche La Chandeliere 2004 Minervois La Liviniere

75% Syrah, with the remaining 25% made up of Grenache and Carignan. This has a lovely, deep, blood red core, with a 1cm ruby/pink rim. The nose offers aromas of rich black fruits, herbs, spices and Christmas cake, with subtle notes of cedar and leather. After some time in the glass, some attractive undergrowth aromas begin to appear. The palate is packed full of rich, sweet, spicy bramble fruit flavours, earthy but soft tannins and dark chocolate, and is given extra lift by a note of bitter cherry kernel. A backbone of very decent, ever-so-slightly-volatile acidity and a long, tangy, warm finish complete the package. Whilst alcohol levels seem to be inexorably on the rise in the south of France (not to mention most other regions, of course) this wine, even at 14.5%, manages to retain a good degree of balance. Whilst there is a touch of alcohol in Guy Vanlancker's La Liviniere wines (the basic Minervois wines achieve closer to 13.5%) they manage to be both voluptuous and elegant at the same time - warming, rather than overpowering. And the result is a wine which, at 5 years of age, is well out of its first flush of youth, whilst still offering lots of scope for development. My impression is of a wine that is really lovely now, but will evolve nicely for a good few years. Top notch Minervois, with a nod towards Gigondas.

The fact that Guy still finds it hard to shift his wines in an increasingly difficult market (not helped by the prevailing economic climate, of course) means that this is his current release of this particular cuvée - his skills lie in making great wines, rather than in marketing them. And as his flagship wine - at a projected price of around £13 - it is a real bargain.

Wilco - the greatest rock band in the world

I went to Leeds a couple of weeks ago to see my favourite band, Wilco. Most of you will probably never even heard of this Chicago-based band, but I genuinely feel that they are the finest rock band in the world - bar none. I meant to post a few lines about this fantastic gig (my third time seeing the band) but just never found the time. I've sure been wearing out my CD collection (and my reasonably extensive collection of concert recordings) since then, though. Meanwhile, one fan's comment about the Leeds show on the Via Chicago forum just about sums it up, when they say "How many bands can go from pretty acoustic folk to Krautrock wig outs to gospel tinged bluesy rock to straight-ahead rock or pop and remain incredibly on and unified throughout the whole show? Amazing musicians, fantastically varied and melodic songs and a great dolefully funny front man in Jeff Tweedy."

If you love great rock music (and just about every other shade of music) then check them out. In fact, here are links to a couple of great videos of live songs, which I found via the excellent Wilcoworld.net website (no need to wait for the whole thing to load - just click play);

"Impossible Germany" from the "Sky Blue Sky" album.

"Monday" from the "Being There" album.

Oh, and just in case you like what you see/hear, you can catch a live live webcast of their show at the Paradiso in Amsterdam tonight (16 November) at 7.45pm (8.45 Central European time). I'll certainly be tuning in!

More from Chateau Pradeaux - 2001 and 2004 reds

I posted last week (see my Tuesday 3 November entry) about the delicious 2008 Chateau Pradeaux Rosé. Since then, I have tasted my way through the 3 red vintages available to me, and they were all pretty damn good, if rather young. Even the 2003 red was lovely when first opened, with lots of fruit but none of the overtly baked richness and green tannins of many wines from that very hot year. In fact, it was glorious! Unfortunately, those green tannins did appear a couple of hours after opening and I (and my trusty tasting buddies) came to the conclusion that they wouldn't help the wine to age gracefully. So that one is a miss. However, the 2001 and 2004 are winners (for quite different reasons)..........

Chateau Pradeaux 2001 Bandol
A medium-dark blood red core, leading to a slightly amber/orange rim, with all sorts of shades inbetween. Despite its 14.5% abv, it is relatively light in texture. The nose is initially a little dumb and monolithic, but it then begins to open up and become much more expressive, with notes of black cherry and bramble, dark chocolate, cedar, tobacco and undergrowth. There are also some nice herby notes, particularly oregano and thyme, and a warming whiff of eau de vie. The palate has flavours of bramble fruits and christmas cake, with background notes of chocolate and red meat, herbs and spice. It is full of richness and fruit, but possesses ample acidity and a healthy backbone of ripe tannin. This is a wine which can be enjoyed now, as long as it is accompanied by a rich, meaty dish, but will reward cellaring for another 5 to 10 years. Bordeaux meets Chateauneuf, perhaps? A potentially great wine, from a great vintage.

Chateau Pradeaux 2004 Bandol
This one is from a much more "normal" vintage, as the 13.5% abv proves. Deepish blood red in colour, semi-transluscent. On opening, there is a whiff of farmyard (at first, I thought brett) but this blows off very quickly to reveal some quite Chateauneuf-like aromas of red and black fruits, garrigue herbs and red meat, with further notes of undergrowth, crystallised fruits, vanilla, sandalwood and leather. The palate is packed full of fruit, although - having only just been bottled after 4 years in large (old) oak foudres - the tannins are still very prominent. This is countered by a herby, mineral quality and fabulous acidity. In other words, a beautifully balanced and fresh wine. Again, this can be drunk now, but needs hearty food to show its best. This is excellent, traditional Bandol (from one of the oldest and most traditional estates) which needs time, but will be perfect after 10 to 15 years of ageing.

The projected prices for the 2001 and 2004 will be £25.75 and £19.75, respectively. The 2008 Rosé will be £14.95. I have them on order now (along with new vintages of my other Provence growers, Domaine de Trévallon and Chateau d'Estoublon) and can't wait to get them listed and unleash them on my customers!

Friday night - a decent Champagne and a top Chateau Musar

I'm not sure how, but Diane and I have virtually polished off the Champagne before dinner (a lovely rib steak), so the Musar 2002 that has been winking at me from the kitchen worktop for the last few days has got its comeuppance!

Piper-Heidsieck Brut Divin Blanc de Blancs NV Champagne
This clearly has some age, as it is quite a deep gold colour. A decent-ish mousse, though not particularly fine, and the nose and palate were a little harsh and unforgiving at first. But with a little air, it really did soften out and become quite delicious and moreish. Bready and biscuity on the nose, with limes and apples and some attractive slatey minerality, like a decent white Burgundy with fizz (am I allowed to say that?). Tastes like one, too - nicely aged Chardonnay flavours, some richness countered by lovely acidity and a very decent finish. A nice way to start the evening and pave the way for some proper wine.........

Chateau Musar 2002 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Darker in colour than your average Musar - half way between a young Burgundy and an aged Claret - with a deep-ish (but still semi-transluscent) core, fading gradually to a wide, slightly amber rim. The trademark VA is there, but masked by quite a lot of oak - somewhat more than usual, at this stage. Perhaps this was given more "treatment" (or more new oak) than usual. And I can see why, because this is bordering on full-bodied and rich, and built to last - clearly a very substantial vintage.

All the components are there - sweet, rich, slightly raisiny fruit, ripe, soft (but ample) tannins and acidity to die for. It isn't all about richness, though, as there are some lovely strawberry/raspberry, even lemony aromas and flavours, along with herbs, spices, leather and cedar - and oak, presently. Of course, it wouldn't be Musar without that delicious acetone and raspberry vinegar-style VA, and there is plenty of that to see it though to maturity - which may be anywhere between the next 5 and 20 years.

Is Cabernet ever more comely than this (softened by some Carignan and Cinsault)? Personally, I don't think so. This Musar is undeniably young and primary, but utterly delicious - and a very good (potentially top) vintage. Just give it a few years and it will really start to sing.

Domaine des Baumard - a tasting of recent vintages, plus a few older ones

This tasting was presented last week by my friend and fellow Nottingham Wine Circle member Roger Halfpenny, who also happens to be the importer for Domaine des Baumard. I've been meaning to type the notes up for a few days now, but (as usual) there just never seem to be enough hours in a day! However, such a fine tasting of both dry and sweet wines should not pass without mention. Don't expect cohesion, though - the notes remain exactly as I wrote them on the night. We started with a couple of Crémant de Loire.......

Crémant de Loire 2004

One third each of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Bready, yeasty, scents of strawberry and cream. Quite young, but already lovely, with notes of apple, lemon and red fruits on the palate. Nicely rich and satisfying.

Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV

100% Cabernet Franc, 18 months on the lees. Lovely pale onion skin colour. Notes of strawberry and apple. Less complex than the 2004, but drier and more focussed, with a lemon sherbert finish. Nice, but quite simple.

Clos Saint Yves 2001 Savennieres

Glycerous and perfumed - quince, lanolin and creamy cheese - smells almost sweet. Palate is almost bone dry - again with a lanolin richness, but steely minerality. Long.

Clos Saint Yves 2005 Savennieres

Lemony and still somewhat oaky. Dry n the palate, but quite resiny as well. Warmer and richer than the 2001 (more alcohol?) but still needs time to get into its stride.

Clos de Papillon 2006 Savennieres

This is really classic Savennieres. Wet dog, mineral, orange marmalade. The palate is intensely mineral and laden with zesty lime flavours. Still painfully young and even austere, but with an underlying richness and notes of anise and liquorice. Cracking wine.

Clos de Papillon 2005 Savennieres

Apples and wet wool, wet stones, flowers and cut grass. The palate is very definitely off-dry - a warmer year, so some residual sugar. Rich and honeyed, with a hint of cider. Less minerality, more texture and fruit. Lovely wine, if a little atypical.

Clos de Papillon 2001 Savennieres

Quince jelly, honey, cheese, mushroom, lanolin, apple pie and vanilla custard - a stunning nose! The palate is a riot of lemon and tart apple. Very minerally, too. Ultra-dry and classic.

Clos de Papillon 2000 Savennieres

Not very much on the nose at all. Hints of swimming pool, old wood and sous-bois - but no fruit or minerality. Not much on the palate, either. A bit of lemon, but strangely short on acidity and really quite flabby. Lacks depth. Not a good Papillon.

Trie Spéciale 2007

Andrew Jefford describes Trie Spéciale as "the apotheosis of Chenin Blanc, and unquestionably a wine to rival Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet" and it is easy to see why. This 2007 has a stunning nose of caramelised tarte tatin, mineral, mixed spice, honey and cream. The oak is judicious and very subtle. Very much in the mould of a GC Burgundy - and the flavour profile is also very much like one, as well, with incredible richness and texture. Creamy, almost caramelly, honeyed, with spiced fruit nuances. Huge length and fantastic wine, though painfully young. Give it 5 to 10 years.

Then it was onto the sweet wines.........

Cuvée Le Paon 2005 Coteaux du Layon

A nose full of minerality and wet wool. The palate is rich and intensely sweet, but beautifully balanced by ample acidity. Barley sugar and creamy apples - Sussex pond pudding! Lovely stuff.

Cuvée Le Paon 2003 Coteaux du Layon

A bit dumb on the nose, though it smells dry. Hints of stone and apple, but not much else. Actually, there are some nice apple and barley sugar flavours, but it is less balanced (and actually less powerful) than the 2005. Perhaps it is just less "ripe", in the phenolic sense. A product of the year. If you have some, drink it sooner rather than later.

Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007 – Coteaux du Layon

My goodness this is fantastic! Cheesy, minerally, lots of lemon and apple/quince aromas. But that hardly prepares you for the palate, which is simply amazing. Intense flavours of lime and lemon marmalade, apples and pears, lemon meringue pie and sherbert dip - trust me, it's all in there!Sweetness to die for, but the acidity is just mouth-watering. But where does that sweetness come from, when the acidity is so intense? Yes, it is sweet but certainly not sugary, caramelly but not burnt. Luscious but tangy, this stuff really makes your tabs laugh. A stunning, complex, glorious wine. Truly great, and will last for absolutely decades - but why wait? Having said that, it will only get better - if such a thing is possible. I believe some or other American writer rated this 97/100, but that only serves to heighten my feeling that points cannot do justice to great wine. And 97 points is surely being mean, because this wine is bordering on perfection.

Clos de Sainte Catherine 2004 Coteaux du Layon

Well - talk about after the Lord Mayor's Show! Closed, dumb, shut. Most of us found this impossible to assess, especially after the 2007. There's probably a lovely wine in there somewhere, but it is just not in a good place at the moment.

Quarts de Chaume 2006

Mineral, herb, stone. Huge acidity and an amazing concentration of quince and apple fruit sweetness. Superbly balanced. But this is so young and needs 10 years to shed the puppy fat and soften some of that super-intense minerality that I sometimes find almost too much in Baumard's Quarts de Chaume.

Quarts de Chaume 1996

Much darker in colour and much more aromatic, with notes of quince, nuts, slate, lime marmalade, lychee, cheese, honey and mushroom - as I said before, it's all there! Huge concentration, with all of those aromas manifesting themselves on the palate, in a wine that is uber-complex and very definitely coming into its drinking window - and will stay there for many a year. Cracking wine, which is almost as good as the Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007........ but not quite!

A very classy rosé wine - Chateau Pradeaux Rosé 2008 Bandol

2 years ago, I visited Chateau Pradeaux, one of the most traditional and famous estates in Bandol. I was impressed with the wines and with the estate itself and, since that visit, Pradeaux has featured very high on the list of growers I would like to have in my portfolio. And yesterday I finally received some sample bottles (3 red vintages and the latest rosé), which I intend to assess over the coming days, before making a decision on which ones to take. Although I usually like to wait a few days for the wines to get over their arduous journey, I have no time to lose, if I am to get some of these wines listed before Christmas. First up was the rosé.

Made from 55% Mourvedre and 45% Cinsault, this rosé has an amazing onion skin/blood orange colour – really beautiful to look at. It is a vin de pressurage, meaning that it is made from a direct pressing of the grapes, rather than the usual saignée (free-run juice) method. The nose has aromas of wild strawberries, orange zest, apples and rose petals, with forest floor, hedgerow and garrigue notes lurking in the background. A hint of pear drops falls away with some air, to be replaced by a nice creaminess, and the aromas begin to meld together into a beautifully clean, complex whole. The palate offers a combination of ripe red fruits and zesty orange and lemon flavours, with a decent amount of acidity and what I can only describe as a minerally, almost tannic backbone, which adds grip and texture. It develops even further after a period of several hours in the decanter, with the aromas and flavours becoming more integrated and intense. Nevertheless, this is a wine that tends towards elegance, rather than power, yet it has a very impressive finish - those tangy, zesty, herby, almost spicy flavours linger for a very long time on the palate.

The problem with many (if not most) rosés is that, in trying to combine flavours at both the red and white ends of the spectrum, they end up being somewhat confected. This one definitely majors on the white fruits, whilst displaying hints of fresh, tangy red fruits, redolent of a light Burgundy – a very successful balancing act. Rosé wines are also normally made in a style that requires fairly early drinking, but Bandol rosés are renowned for their ability to age for a few years. And I think this one will age and improve for a good few years yet – whilst already starting from a very high level indeed. A superb rosé wine, that can only get better.

The only question is, can I sell a rosé at a projected £15.95 per bottle? Well, only time will tell. The Domaine Tempier and Domaine Ott 2008 rosés are both approaching the £20 mark - and Chateau Pradeaux 2008 is more than a match for the rosés I have tasted from those growers.

GrapesTALK - the official ASDW magazine - Issue 10 out now

GrapesTALK is the official quarterly magazine of the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants (ASDW). as well as being a founder member and former Secretary and Chairman of ASDW, I am also a regular contributor to GrapesTalk. The latest issue (subtitled "Focus on France") features a full-length article by me on one of my favourite growers, Domaine Treloar, together with an up-to-date report on the 2009 vintage in Roussillon by winemaker Jonathan Hesford.

Most of France's wine regions are covered in this issue, including major articles on Beaujolais, Rhone, Burgundy etc, plus lesser-known regions such as Jura and South-West France. There are also (amongst other things) book reviews, restaurant reviews and recipes. There is also an article on Chateauneuf-du-Pape by Harry Karis, plus a review on Harry's new book "The Chateauneuf-du-Pape Wine Book", by no less than Robert M Parker Jr himself!

GrapesTALK is available as a free download.

An evening of lovely wines to celebrate a friend's 60th birthday

Around 24 members of Nottingham Wine Circle gathered at The Pretty Orchid restaurant on Friday evening, to celebrate the 60th birthday of our friend and fellow member, Mieke Hudson (centre of the photo). As ever, the standard of the wines was very high - as I've said before, these people are never less than extremely generous in sharing the fruits of their cellars. I was a little late in arriving (why do most of the problems with the tram system seem to coincide with my trips into Nottingham?) so I actually missed the first few wines. Nevertheless, I was able to sample at least 22 different wines - and, apart from a few uninspiring Bordeaux (and we are talking classed-growths, here!) there was hardly a dud amongst them. Because we were also busy eating, my notes are necessarily brief.........

Chateau de La Roche-aux-Moines Clos de La Coulée de Serrant 1986 - Savennieres Coulée de Serrant was first up and was bang on form, being an early contender for white wine of the night. All nettles, wet wool, lemony fruit and minerality on the nose, still tight and delineated on the palate - long and oh-so complex. I'm pleased that I still have around a dozen bottles left, to enjoy over the next 10 or 20 years.

Francois Cotat Le Grande Cote 2000 Sancerre was lovely stuff - dry, fruity and with nice balance and super length. Perhaps a touch of bitterness on the finish, but (even at 9 years old) with a lot of development left in it.

Willi Brundlemeyer Zobinger Heilingenstein Riesling 1997 was delicious - aromatic, very minerally, packed with flavours of citrus fruit, herbs and spices and huge length. Superb.

Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese 1997 was textbook stuff. Tightly-structured, but with some generous fruit and a touch of residual sugar providing a counter to the mouth-watering acidity and steely minerality. A cracking wine.

I didn't manage to take a note on the Zind-Humbrecht Clos Hauserer Riesling 2002 Alsace, but recall that it was somewhat lighter (and less alcoholic) than most Z-H wines tend to be - and all the more enjoyable for it.

Vincent Lumpp La Grande Berge 2007 Givry 1er Cru was on great form, with vibrant fruit, minerality and nicely-integrated oak providing a glimpse of how good Cote Chalonnaise Burgundy can be. Not that I brought it (the 1986 Coulée de Serrant was my white contribution) but you can buy this wine from my website, at the bargain price of just £14.95.

Again, I didn't take a note on the Jean Pascal Puligny-Montrachet 2007, but it was enjoyable village Burgundy, although consumed far too early in its evolution.

Onto the reds, and Chateau Fombrage 1988 St. Emilion was the ideal wine - if only to get it out of the way as early as possible! For me, it was dry, austere and totally lacking in charm.

Domaine Bachelot Vieilles Vignes 1997 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, on the other hand, was proper wine. Amazingly perfumed, combining notes of flowers, fruit, savoury (notably beef) and chocolate. The palate was already soft and silky and approaching maturity. If I'm being hyper-critical, it was perhaps just a touch light (but I'm being picky). A delightful wine.

Torres Gran Coronas Reserva 1985 Penedes was my wine. On opening this, I was somewhat unimpressed, thinking it was a bit dried-out and past its drinking plateau (so much so that I brought another red wine with me). How wrong I was - it is indeed a fading old dame of a wine, but it grew in the glass, revealing some nice secondary fruit flavours, a touch of savouriness and notes of sous-bois and tea. Not a great wine, but a very very good one - and so much more enjoyable and elegant than the other Cabernet-based (i.e. Bordeaux) wines on show. As 1985 was the year Diane and I got married, I am pleased to still have 2 or 3 bottles left for our 25th anniversary celebration next year.

Torres Mas La Plana Gran Coronas 1994 Penedes provided an interesting comparison, if only to further highlight how well the 1985 had evolved. I may be wrong, but I'm not sure there is any mileage left in the 1994, which was still quite tannic, but lacking in fruit and charm.

Next up was another Bordeaux, Chateau Cos d'Estournel 1989 Saint Estephe - and another disappointing wine. There was plenty of the classic cedar and graphite stuff going on with the nose, but the palate was dry, austere and lacking in fruit. Considering this is a Second Growth, it really was not a great advert for expensive Bordeaux.

Chateau La Lagune 1985 Haut Médoc had much more in the way of fruit, along with notes of green pepper, cedar and spice. It has stood the test of time much better than the 1989 Cos, but it is (for me at least) a bit boring.

Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 1995 Paulliac was next up. What can I say? Basically, it was like sucking on a band aid plaster. Fruitless, joyless and pretty pointless. Which only served to confirm my opinion that 90% of Bordeaux wines (including the classed growths) are Emperor's New Clothes.

And so back to proper wine, with Noel Verset Cornas 1996. An incredible bouquet (almost in the literal sense) of violets, lilies and roses. The palate didn't quite live up to the nose, being a touch on the light side, but there was still plenty of interest, with classic Syrah fruit profile, resolved tannins, minerality and juicy acidity. Not a great Verset Cornas, but a good one, which is drinking perfectly right now.

Les Cailloux 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape is also drinking beautifully. A touch stinky/farmyardy, and with a touch of acetone - perhaps a sign of the hot year. Packed full of warm, juicy, mouth-filling southern Rhone fruit and spice. Long, warming and open for business - and one of the best 1998 Chateauneufs.

J L Chave Hermitage 1995 was, of course, a real treat. The 1982 and 1983, tasted a couple of years back, rank amongst the greatest wines I have ever had the privilege of tasting - and this 1995 has the potential to rank right up there with them. It took a little time to really open up (it is still on the young side, after all) but it is already soft and seductive, with true complexity and balance. A perfect marriage of fruit, tannin and acidity, with a touch of peppery spice and classic northern Rhone florality. Young, but poised, yet with years of development left in it. A potentially great wine, and I hope I am lucky enough to taste another one some day.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraph 1993 Chateauneuf-du-Pape was my own final contribution and showed really well in such esteemed company. Although not from a great year in Chateauneuf, it is full of fruit, complex and balanced - a touch rustic in comparison to the Chave Hermitage, but what wine wouldn't be? And at 16 years old, it too still has some way to go before it reaches its peak.

Croft 1977 Vintage Port was light, elegant, well-balanced and warm without being hot or spiritous. I'm not a great fan of Port, but this was really nice.

Cockburns 1983 Vintage Port was also quite decent, though a bit clumsy in comparison. A bit young, perhaps, but will never be great.

Finally, Domaine des Baumard Clos Ste. Catherine 1989 Coteaux du Layon. I've enjoyed various vintages of this wine and rarely have they failed to excite the senses. And this one was no different, with an amazing nose - a riot of sweet-smelling fruit, with sweaty cheese and savoury nuances. The palate is unctiously sweet and mouth-coating, but it is held in check by wonderful acidity and classic Chenin Blanc minerality. And at 20 years old, it has literally decades of development left in it. In my opinion, this is Baumard's best sweet cuvée, with slightly less intensity than the Quarts de Chaume, but more elegance. A lovely wine to finish a lovely evening. Happy 60th, Mieke!

A tasting of 1998 Southern Rhones - on this evidence, drink up (quickly)!

1998 was universally touted, by trade and media alike, as a great (and potentially long-lived) vintage in the Rhone. Or, at least, it was when the wines were first released. And many of them were indeed deliciously drinkable, at the time, albeit in a typical hot-vintage, rich, baked fruit sort of way. Over the last few years, however, many of those crystal ball commentators have been steadily revising their opinions, given that so many of the very wines have begun to show worrying signs of fatigue. And if tonight's tasting of 1998 Rhones at the Nottingham Wine Circle was any sort of indicator, they are going nowhere fast - apart from downhill. These are my own tasting notes and opinions, although I must say that the rest of the room seemed broadly in agreement.

1. Domaine du Vieux Chene 1998 Cotes du Rhone Villages

Muted nose. Hints of raspberry, tobacco, sous bois. On the palate, the fruit is hanging on - but only just. A bit austere and lacks charm.

2. Domaine Saint Anne 1998 Cotes du Rhone Villages St. Gervais

A touch more expressive on the nose - a mix of bramble and bovril. The palate is a touch confected, with some unresolved tannins and a fair amount of heat. Baked and soupy, almost "pastilley", in a non-fruity sort of way. Needs food.

3. Clos du Caillou Bouquet des Garrigues 1998 Cotes du Rhone

This one has a lovely nose, and it certainly lives up to its name. A mélange of garrigue herbs, polished leather and warm southern Rhone fruit. The tannins are still evident, but there is plenty of fruit and juicy acidity to keep it nicely balanced. A nice wine.

4. Chateau du Grand Moulas 1998 Cotes du Rhone

This smells a bit weird. Volatile and slightly dirty on the nose, with a hint of pastilley fruit, offset by burnt tar. The palate is metallic/ferrous and tart, but not exactly acidic. This is way past its prime, and not pleasant to drink.

5. Chateau de Grand Moulas Cuvée de l'Ecu 1998 Cotes du Rhone

A touch more elegant on the nose than number 4, with hints of Syrah, but I'm trying to be kind to it. Little in the way of discernible fruit aromas or interest. There is actually something of the cheap Bordeaux about it, with notes of green capsicum, tobacco, tannin - and no fruit. Another rather unpleasant wine, which (I hope) has seen better days.

6. Chateau du Trignon La Ramillade 1998 Gigondas

A "negociant" wine, from bought-in fruit. This is yet another baked, rustic, hot-year wine. A bit dirty, a bit rustic, a bit charmless. It was also a bit corked, which at least added a bit of interest(!)

7. Chateau du Trignon 1998 Gigondas

This is the "Chateau" wine, made from fruit from the estate's own vineyards, and is markedly better than number 6. Not a lot going on on the nose, but plenty of sweet fruit and spice on the palate, with slightly rustic tannins balanced by decent acidity and even a bit of elegance. A nice(ish) wine.

8. Cros de La Mure 1998 Gigondas

A distinctly alcoholic nose, with notes of tobacco, coffee and spice. Tastes alcoholic, too. There is a little fruit, but mostly of a secondary nature. And the abundance of alcohol, combined with low acidity, simply renders it completely unbalanced.

9. Domaine Le Clos de Cazeaux Cuvée de La Tour Sarrazin 1998 Gigondas

This shows signs of a rich, substantial wine, which may have been rather nice, about 5 years ago. As it is, though, it is muddy and rustic - and has very definitely fallen off its perch.

10. Chateau Redortier 1998 Gigondas

This one is still a bit of a bruiser. Quite tannic and alcoholic. Still a bit of fruit peeping through, but very definitely in its secondary phase, with additional notes of tar and liquorice. Yet another wine that simply hasn't lasted the course. It would be OK as a winter warmer, with some hearty food, but needs drinking very soon.

11. Domaine Santa Duc 1998 Gigondas

At last, a wine that offers some real enjoyment. A lovely nose of fresh fruit, spices and well-judged oak. Ample red and black fruit flavours, resolved tannins and excellent balancing acidity. Elegant, even. I really liked this one.

12. Domaine Santa Duc Les Haut Garrigues 1998 Gigondas

This cuvée has a more serious, yet less expressive nose. The palate has more oak and more body, and perhaps more complex, in a savoury (rather than fruity) way. A very interesting and well-made wine, and a nice contrast to number 11. Whilst 11 is drinking beautifully now, this one probably needs a few more years. But will it last? As someone else commented, it is impressive, rather than enjoyable.

12a. Clos des Papes Blanc 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (an un-announced extra)

Calvados and rotting apples on the nose, with hints of marzipan, toffee and anise. A bit oxidised, perhaps? The palate is a bit bland, for my liking, and definitely lacking in acidity, which means it may never blossom into anything special.

13. Domaine de Marcoux 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Ooh.... this is both perfumed and meaty - and very substantial. A heady mix of aromas, including flowers, fresh fruits, tobacco and spice. Sweet fruit on the palate, augmented by meat, leather, spiced fruit and cloves. It evolves beautifully in the glass and is a classic Chateauneuf - and a really good effort, for the vintage.

14. Les Cailloux 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (André Brunel)

Damn - corked! Which really is unfortunate, because there is a really excellent wine lurking beneath the TCA. In fact, it is quite the most fragrant of corked wines! A real shame, as I was looking forward to this wine.

15. Pere Caboche Cuvée Elisabeth Chambellan 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Light-bodied and simple, with a bitter cherry kernel palate. Not obviously faulty, but completely lacking in substance or charm.

15a. Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 1999 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (another un-announced extra)

Note that this was a 1999, not 1998. And boy, did it show. Just by the nose, I could tell this was going to be the Wine of the Night. It is oh-so complex. A heady mix of fruit and flowers, herbs, spices, meat, vegetables and marmite. The sheer array of enticing aromas is wonderful to behold. If I were asked to give an ideal description of the word "wine", it might well be this one - it really does tick all the boxes. And the palate certainly delivers on the promise of the nose. Fruit in abundance, together with just the right amount of savouriness. A hugely complex wine, with flavours of spiced fruits, garrigue, roasted meat, tobacco and sous-bois. Soft tannins, ample acidity, long, complex - and not even a hint of alcoholic heat. This is probably the finest VT I have ever had the pleasure of tasting - and is definitely in my top three Chateauneufs ever. It may not quite reach the heights of the best that Cote Rotie or Hermitage have to offer - but it runs them pretty damn close. I don't do scores but, if I did, this would be a 95+ on the Parker scale. And it will undoubtedly get better. A glorious wine, and a triumphant end to a rather disappointing tasting.

OK, so this was (apart from the 1999 VT) a far from a stellar line-up, but there were a good few wines on show from growers whose wines would (in other vintages) provide plenty of enjoyment and would be expected to show well at 11 years of age. But few of these 1998's did show well. And, in my opinion, there is only one way they can go from here - and that is downhill. So if you have any 1998 southern Rhones, my advice would be to drink up - but don't expect great things.

A bunch of lovely wines enjoyed recently, chez Stolarski

Because my house does not have a cellar, my home "stocks" have to be stored in various cupboards in the hallway, under the stairs and even under the kitchen units. With a little imagination, it is possible to store a very decent amount of wine in this way. Nevertheless, my supplies had dwindled a little, recently, to the point where I needed to bring a few mixed cases home from my store. Which has given me the opportunity to open a few old favourites and a few new ones. Here are my notes on a handful that have stood out, for one reason or another, over the past couple of weeks.

Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Coyam 2001 – Central Valley, Chile
I bought half a dozen bottles of this biodynamic wine 2 or 3 years back, when they were on offer for around £8 a bottle at Asda. I loved it then, and it is still very enjoyable now, though I can’t help but feel my tastes have moved on since then. It is certainly not a style I would choose to drink too often, these days, but it did seem to hit the spot on this occasion. The nose is quite bretty and a bit monolithic to begin with, although it does eventually open out to reveal subtle notes of bramble, cedar, undergrowth and eau de vie. The palate is rich, dense and bramble-packed, but with some savoury elements too, notably herbs, meat, leather and dark chocolate. In fact, there is an awful lot going on here, though the softening tannins and a decent amount of acidity just manage to keep the richness in check. I’m not sure what it is trying to be, though. Claret with attitude? Almost, although large doses of Mourvedre and Syrah give it extra dimensions. Perhaps a better description might be California meets Barossa meets Languedoc meets Bordeaux. In other words, an enjoyable wine, with a bit of an identity crisis!

Domaine de Montcalmes 2004 - Coteaux du Languedoc
This is a really delicious Syrah-dominated wine, with myriad fruit aromas including raspberry, bramble and cranberry, along with notes of tobacco, herbs, spice and schiste. It isn’t overly cheap, at around £15 a bottle, but is very elegant and classy, with soft tannins, cracking acidity and complex primary and secondary fruit flavours, augmented by touches of herby garrigue and warm-climate savouriness. It is a bit of a cliché, I know, but this wine is almost Burgundian in style, but with more than a nod towards the northern Rhone, too. Complex stuff, and well worth checking out if you can find it.

Joao Pato Vinho de Mesa 1990 – Bairrada region, Portugal
This is a wine composed of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 75% of the quaintly-named Baga. And what a lovely Baga it is! A lovely pale/medium mahogany core, fading to an even paler orange rim, with some fine sediment floating about - which never bothers me. Squished plum and cherry aromas, cedar, butter cream, crushed pepper and herbs, with some old (but clean) wood and a hint of tar. Hardly "primary fruit", but all in all a quite delightful nose, worthy of contemplation. And for a 16 year old wine - from what I assume is a quite lowly denomination – it never fails to offer enjoyment. The palate is beautifully mellow, with plenty of aged red and black fruit flavours - still with a beautiful sweet core - with soft tannins, a lovely, fresh, acidic backbone and spicy finish. I bought my first lot of this wine 3 years ago, from a well-known auction house, since when it has cropped up with great regularity at nearly every subsequent auction. In fact, it has pretty much become my “house” wine. By my estimation, some merchant or other has drip-fed at least 100 cases of this wine through various auction houses, and the supply doesn’t seem to have dried up yet! And at the going rate of around £5 a bottle, it really is a serious bargain. In fact, if I had paid that price on release (15 years ago?) I would not have been disappointed at how it turned out. And it certainly has a good few years of life left in it. Which is just as well, because I still have a case or two left – and will buy more, given the chance. A remarkable wine for the money. Yum!

J.M. Alquier Reserve Les Bastides d’Alquier 1997 - Faugeres
This is another wine I picked up at auction, around a year ago, for £7.50 a bottle – which is about half the price that the current vintage retails for! It has a deep, dark ruby/blood red core, which belies its age, with only a tiny, slightly bricking rim to give it away. The nose offers up great wafts of woodsmoke, bramble and plums, with all sorts of other things going on - notably violets and lilies, sichuan peppercorn, a lick of brett and a good dose of schiste minerality. Oh so complex and still a relative baby, with lovely weight of bramble and redcurrant fruit and a touch of bitter chocolate. With slightly rustic tannins, lovely acidity and gently warming alcohol (14.0%) this is a wine that manages to be both mouth-puckering and mouth-watering at the same time. Although possessing some nice Grenache notes, this really is all about the Syrah - sort of Cornas-meets-Languedoc. It is a complex and compelling wine, and with such depth of fruit, it will certainly go for another 5+ years before peaking. But it is so lovely, I will find it hard to resist drinking my remaining bottles before then.

Chateau Musar 1996 – Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
I wasn’t sure what I should open to accompany roast pork last weekend. OK, so roast pork can be matched with so many wines (of all colours) but I have just brought home from my store a few boxes of mixed wines, since my choices for “drinking” wines were starting to get a bit limited. However, a thread on the wine-pages forum about 2001 Chateau Musar pretty much made my mind up for me. I am a big fan of Musar, so a rather lukewarm note about the (very young) 2001 current release got me thinking about the so-called lesser vintages of this wine, especially as a few other Musar fans were adding their two penn’orth to the debate. All I can say is that “Musar heads” really should know better than to judge or dismiss an 8 year-old vintage, so early on in its development. I have heard/read this sort of snap judgement so many times that it has become a bit of a bugbear of mine. Suffice to say that I have already tried the 2001 (and have a few more bottles tucked away) and would say that it should be kept for at least another 3-5 years before making a more reasoned assessment.

For example, the 1996 vintage has often been dismissed as weak. Nevertheless, I bought a case at auction 2 or 3 years ago and have been enjoying the occasional bottle ever since. I have around half a dozen left, and it seems to get better with every one I open. So, prompted by the forum discussion, I opened another one. Now admittedly, 1996 is a fairly "light" vintage by Musar standards, but it also happens to be one of the cleanest and most elegant vintages I have ever tasted. In fact, if I were tasting this bottle blind, I might even mistake it for a very (very) good 1er Cru Burgundy - it is that good.

I am very much looking forward to enjoying my remaining bottles of 1996 Musar over the next 5 to 10 years, whilst occasionally dipping into the remainder of my stash of the brilliant and classic (i.e. much faultier!) 1991. The 2001 might be a little bit sleepy, at the moment, but its time will undoubtedly come. Patience is the watchword!

Paxman v Johnson - a bruising encounter (and an honourable draw)!

I must admit that I do have some fairly deep-rooted and long-standing political views - all moderate, I might add - although a (generally) wine-related blog is certainly no place to air them. Furthermore, I suspect that I am no different to 95% of the population in currently being thoroughly hacked-off with politicians of all persuasions, be they left, right or centre. In fact, come the next election, I may well be voting for "none of the above", such is my disillusionment with the choices on offer.

Having said that, I do like a good laugh, and politics - just like any other normally "serious" subject - does have a habit of throwing up the occasional genuine comedy moment. And one such moment is now available for all to see on the BBC iPlayer. It features a bout between the (until now) undisputed UK heavyweight champion political interviewer, Jeremy Paxman, and Boris "Rocky" Johnson of Her Majesty's Opposition (and current Lord Mayor of London). The venue is, of course, the Conservative Party Conference in Manchester. I must admit that (whatever my own political leanings) I do have a soft spot for dear old Boris and have always been a fan of Paxo. Frankly, when he interviews a politician, they stay well and truly interviewed - and they are all fair game, as far as I am concerned!

I won't spoil the fun by telling you all about it. Suffice to say that it is very funny, no blood is spilt, and (on my card, at least) it finishes as an honourable draw. I just can't wait for the re-match!

For those of you reading this outside of the UK (or indeed if it has disappeared from iPlayer by the time you do read this) then don't worry. It has already been preserved for immortality (I hope) on YouTube. Enjoy!

California - a chance to taste some really interesting wines

Although my personal preferences in wine have always favoured the old world over the new, I have always had a soft spot for California. So last night at Nottingham Wine Circle provided an opportunity to taste some really interesting stuff, courtesy of my friend Andy Leslie. The line-up consisted of 14 wines, majoring on three excellent growers - Joseph Swan, Ridge and Tablas Creek - but starting with a delicious Mumm Cuvée Napa Rosé sparkler.............

1. Mumm Cuvée Napa Rosé NV - Napa Valley
A gorgeous pale pink colour, with an expressive nose. A lovely wine, packed full of lemon and cranberry fruit. Rich, creamy, lightly toasty and aged sufficiently for any hard edges to have softened beautifully. Elegant and long and delicious.

2. Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc 2005, Paso Robles
70% Roussanne, 25% Grenache Blanc and 5% Picpoul - but this, to me, smelled and tasted more like a decent Alsace Pinot Gris than a Rhone-style blend. But that is not to detract from a nicely made wine - rich, dense and with excellent structure. Elegant, too.

3. Joseph Swan Saralees Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2005, Russian River Valley
Very Gewurztraminer - by which I mean extremely perfumed, in a turkish delight-steeped-in-rosewater sort of way! Dry(ish) on the palate, but that overtly rich, perfumed Gewurztraminer profile (i.e. it tastes even stronger than it smells) is definitely an acquired taste - and not one I can ever see myself acquiring. As somebody else remarked, Alsace on stilts! OK stuff, but not for me.

4. Joseph Swan Angelo's Old Vine White 1994, Russian River Valley
Old vines - and old wine. By which I mean well past it, in an oxidised, cheesy, sherry-like way. Having said that, it wasn't too unpleasant to drink - which at least made it more palatable (to this dry sherry hater) than just about any Fino I've ever encountered!

5. Joseph Swan Wolfspierre Vineyard Chardonnay 1995, Sonoma Mountain
In its youth, this would undoubtedly have been extremely oaky, but the oak has integrated nicely and the wine has evolved into something really interesting and even quite elegant. Classic lemon and mineral Chardonnay aromas and flavours, with an interesting "banoffee" richness - like California meets Meursault. I really like this, though it would benefit from being paired with some roast pork.

6. Ridge Litton Springs 2006, Dry Creek, Sonoma
80% Zinfandel, 16 % Petite Sirah, 4% Carignan. This smells and tastes like a decent, though unspectacular, Cotes du Rhone. Big fruit, carbonic maceration(?) and bold flavours. Nice stuff, but I'm not sure it will evolve into anything spectacular. Perhaps it is meant to drink young, rather than to be aged. Either way, it is an enjoyable but fairly simple wine which doesn't merit a price tag of around £22.

7. Joseph Swan Matthew's Station Vineyard Tannat 2005, Russian River Valley
Deep and dark, but certainly not broody or impenatrable - and certainly unlike any Madiran I have ever tasted. Actually, it is pretty delicious, in a fruit-forward, approachable, drinkable sort of way. A real curio - and for around 12 quid, a bit of a bargain.

8. Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel 2002, Paso Robles
57% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 6% Counoise. The nose is initially closed, but it opens out to reveal southern Rhone-style aromas, with a touch of the Burgundy about it - aromatically, perhaps even white Burgundy, although there is a touch of volatility. The palate is less satisfying, and lacking a little in the fruit department, with some dusty tannins still getting in the way. Not a bad wine, but I don't think it will improve.

9. Joesph Swan Cotes du Rosa 1995, Russian River Valley
100% Carignan. Wow, this is so lovely, with a complex nose of smoke, red and black fruits, pepper and spice and all sorts of things. High-toned, but in a good sort of way - just so fragrant and so elegant. Quite rich on the palate, but perfectly balanced and packed full of sweet, spicy fruit, with soft tannins and cracking acidity. Utterly lovely - and further proof (as if I needed it) that Carignan can and does make great wine!

10. Joseph Swan Stellwagen Vineyard Zinfandel 1995, Russian River Valley
Rich, raisiny, pruney and slightly volatile - but another lovely wine. Sexy was the word which sprang to mind (don't know why)! Wonderfully fruity and packed with mouth-watering acidity. Quirky, spicy, slightly volatile and perhaps even "faulty", in a Chateau Musar sort of way. But give me faulty, characterful wines over boring, formulaic ones, any day of the week. Not as good as the Cotes du Rosa, but still a cracking wine.

11. Joseph Swan Zeigler Vineyard Zinfandel 1995, Russian River Valley
This is even more Musar-like, though with more in the way of secondary aromas and flavours (truffles, undergrowth, cheese) but still plenty of that slightly volatile raspberry and perhaps even citrus fruit. Perhaps I even preferred this to wine number 10, but only just.

12. Joseph Swan Frati Vineyard Zinfandel 1995, Russian River Valley
This is so much bigger and denser than 10 and 11, and perhaps even a bit more "correct" and "clean" - but, for me, less enjoyable because of it. To be fair, the others are perfectly mature, whereas this one seems to have more life left in it, so perhaps it just needs more time to develop all of those delicious faults!

13. Ridge Spring Mountain Petite Sirah 1993, York Creek, Napa Valley
Another wine with a nose like a young Cotes du Rhone, despite it being 16 years old. Dense, sweet fruit and tannins make for a rather backward wine - or is it just a bit boring? Not bad, I can't really see it going anywhere.

14. Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 1991, Dry Creek, Sonoma
Smells very slightly dirty, but not in a way that spoils it. Indeed, it has quite a complex nose of bramble, blackcurrant, red capsicum, cedar and sous-bois. The palate is big and rich, but soft - similar in profile to a Barossa Cabernet, but more complex and multi-faceted. There is a lot going on in this wine, and it reveals yet more complexity after some time in the glass. Another analogy might be Claret with bells on. Classy and full-bodied, but very elegant with it. A real cracker to finish the evening.

This was such an enjoyable tasting, and a rare treat. Actually, some of these wines are still commercially available, some for as little as 12 quid, which makes them better value than one would imagine can be had for premium Californian wine. Note to self - I must drink more Californian wines!

The 2009 vintage in Roussillon

It has been far too long since I last posted on anything significant, although there have been a few replies to my post from a few weeks back about the International Wine Challenge, including a couple from the founder himself, Robert Joseph. It all makes for an interesting discussion, and my compliments go to Robert for taking the time to present his side of the argument.

I have some notes from an interesting tasting of Amarone and sweet Sherry at the Nottingham Wine Circle last week, which I will post on later this week. Tonight is the monthly gathering of the "Tuesday Group" at Le Mistral in Nottingham, where I am sure we will (as always) taste an excellent and eclectic selection of wines, accompanied by some nice food. And tomorrow evening, I will be presenting a tasting of wines from South-West France to the Wine Circle. I hope also to post notes on these, within the next few days.

Meanwhile, my friend Jonathan Hesford at Domaine Treloar has sent me a report on the 2009 vintage, which looks extremely promising - at least for quality growers such as Treloar. Here is Jon's full report;

"2009 has been a wetter year than the last 2 in the Roussillon with heavy rainfalls and even snow in winter and frequent rains right through summer. The summer was heatwave hot and quite humid too. August had hot days and nights but in September the nights cooled off. There were a couple of rainstorms during harvest but well-organised growers (like me!) would have avoided these. However, the drought conditions of 07 and 08 mean that the water content of the soils was still low and so are yields.

There was more downy mildew than usual and those growers who could not keep it under control will have lost crop. It also kills off the leaves which can delay ripening.

There was poor weather during the Grenache flowering and my yields from that variety are particularly low, although the quality was almost perfect. The Syrah was perhaps the best I've seen. The Carignan is considerably more concentrated than last year and the Mourvedre is both higher in yield and of good flavour. I was very happy with the Macabeu and Grenache Gris for La Terre Promise but the Muscat is perhaps a little too concentrated - more tropical fruit than mineral / floral. I picked the younger Syrah at 12% to make a rose by direct pressing, the best method and stopped the fermentation at 6g residual sugar to give it a touch of sweetness. I'm sure it will be the best rose in the Roussillon!

In general I think picking dates were earlier than the last 2 years. However, phenolic ripeness didn't progress at the same rate as sugar ripeness and growers who rely only on sugar would have picked grapes with unripe flavours. I would guess this will apply to many Coops who were picking about 1 week before the independants.

Acidity has been, for me, very good this year with grapes keeping acidity during ripening so that we can have wines with good ripe tannins, good concentration and yet good acidity to balance them and allow them to age well.

I've not really tasted anybody else's wines but my conclusion from what I hear is that the quality of the wines are good but quantities are low. I think there will be plenty of variation from one producer to another and a lot will depend on when growers picked and how the dealt with an atypical vintage. Is that what they call a "winemakers vintage"? "

A minor amendment to my Blog settings - spammers need not apply

I suppose it had to happen sooner or later. Some idiot by the name of "Sue" (registered as a Blogger, but - surprise, surprise - without a public profile) posted replies to a good few of my recent Blog entries, all of which consisted of nothing more than coded links to some or other crappy website. Suffice to say I have no wish to give these parasites any room for manoeuvre, and managed to delete these "comments" within minutes of them appearing. This is one of the few downsides to what is otherwise one of the most brilliant inventions in modern history - the Internet. Therefore, I have had to resort very reluctantly to moderating all replies. It won't stop anybody posting replies to any of my posts - it simply means that I will have to approve them before they are published. I have no intention of blocking any replies, as long as the content is relevant to my posts (or my Blog in general) and contains no offensive material or spam.

Anecdotal evidence tells me that there are now a very healthy number of people following my Blog, be they customers, friends, acquaintances, other bloggers or even complete strangers. Most of them just read it, but some occasionally add comments, for which I am most grateful - it is always nice to know that people find the content worthwhile enough to post replies. So please keep the comments coming and I will try to ensure they are published as soon as possible after you post them - and I'll also try to keep posting interesting and thought-provoking content, of course!

A lovely surprise - Terre Inconnue "Les Bruyeres" Vin de Table de France (1999)

I use the brackets because the label of a "mere" Vin de Table is not, strictly speaking, allowed to display a vintage. I promise you that I wouldn't waste my time buying and drinking any old Vin de Table - a denomination normally reserved for France's most lowly (and, generally speaking, vile) wines. But my view is that any quality wine grower serious enough and determined enough (and some may say stupid enough) to eschew not just the local "Appellation d'Origine Controlée" (AOC) but even the local "Vin de Pays" denomination must be making some seriously interesting and quirky wines. And they usually tend to find a way of circumventing the rules by indicating the vintage somewhere on the label - in this case, with the none-too-subtle use of the code L : 1999 in the bottom right corner(!)

My friends Andy Leslie and Bernard Caille picked some of this wine up at a recent auction for an all-in price of £12 per bottle and I think my two bottles represent £24 well spent - especially if the second bottle is anywhere near as good as this one. A little research tells me that Les Bruyeres is the "basic" wine of this cult Languedoc grower, and tends to retail for somewhat less than a tenner (for the current vintage) although it is not currently available in the UK. But I'm happy to have paid a bit of a premium for a wine that has some decent bottle age and seems to me to be at the peak of its drinking window.

It was only after tasting this wine that I did any research, yet I sensed all the hallmarks of a weird and wonderful Carignan. And, indeed, that is exactly what it turns out to be - 100% Carignan, picked fairly late, I would guess, and made in quite a rich, baked style, with what seems like extended maturation before bottling. It is now almost tawny in colour, with a very pale amber/brick, almost onion skin rim - very light in colour. And it has the hallmark plummy, high-toned, almost beetrooty aroma of aged Carignan, with all sorts of other things going on, such as decaying leaves, cranberry, wild strawberry and hints of garrigue herbs and exotic spices - and a noticeable, though very pleasant, dose of volatile acidity (think nail polish remover). All-in-all, a very complex and quirky nose, not a million miles away from Chateau Musar in structure.

The palate is fruity, in a decaying sort of way, but there is still a fresh, sweet, almost fruit pastille quality about it. Add to that a refreshingly acidic backbone, almost fully-resolved tannins, herbs and spices and a long, warming finish and you have one very lovely and very intersting wine. Not one for the purists, perhaps, but hugely interesting. I have a feeling that this is not going to evolve further and perhaps needs drinking fairly soon. And indeed, the last glass, consumed 24 hours after opening, is a bit less voluptuous than last night. But what a lovely wine, while it lasted.

Since none of the wines of Terre Inconnue seem to be available in the UK at present, it may be that I should pay them a visit, next time I am in the region......... ;-)

Chateauneuf-du-Pape - is it growing on me?

Following on from my tasting note on the lovely Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 1994 (see Sunday 30 August below) we had an intersting tasting at the Nottingham Wine Circle this week, based on New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The less said about the Sauvignons, the better, as far as I am concerned. They ranged from pretty poor to fairly good, but that's about the long and the short of it. In fact, unless it is made by a good winemaker in the cooler climes of the Loire Valley (or by the odd quality grower in Languedoc - but I would say that!) it can be a pretty boring grape variety.

The Chateauneufs, on the other hand, ranged from reasonably good to excellent, so here are some thoughts on a few of the ones we tasted;

Domaine Chante Perdrix Selection Reflets 1986 was lovely, with a complex perfume of liqourice, rotting old fruit, forest floor and polished wood. No real fruit flavours left, just beautifully "winey", herby and spicey, in an old sort of way.

Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes 2001 was nice, if not top-notch. Relatively young, but nevertheless not as soft as some 2001's, though with a lot of character and some nice fruit and spicey warmth. Not a polished wine, but nicely rustic, and not bad for what I believe was a supermarket wine.

Clos des Papes 2000, on the other hand, was savoury, herby and meaty, but supremely elegant. It also has some of that classic baked fruit character, which can be too much in the clumsier Chateauneufs, but in the hands of a skilled and sympathetic winemaker can add depth and richness to an otherwise elegant wine. And this one - as with most vintages of Clos des Papes - was truly light on its feet. In fact, I know of no other Chateauneuf grower that produces such elegant wines. Very classy stuff, that will be even better in 10 years' time.

Mont Redon 1999 was light-ish and more like a good Cotes du Rhone than classic Chateauneuf - nice acidity, quite light and rustic, with a hint of stalkiness. Needs drinking fairly soon, though.

Domaine de Villeneuve 1998 was a bit soupy and, to be honest, a bit boring. In fact, it had what I call the "1998 disease" of bovril, meat, leather and the like - but little left in the way of fruit. So many Rhone wines - i.e. not just Chateauneuf - have, after a promising first few years (and some great reviews from those "expert" critics) lost most of their fruit and taste soupy and baked. This one may age a bit, but if there is little in the way of fruit now, then what would be the point? I say drink up.

Clos du Mont Olivet 1999 was also full of secondary aromas and flavours, but had much more in the way of fruit. An enjoyable wine, though my note is too sketchy to do it justice - I was finding it hard to retain my concentration and lucidity by the end!

Anyway, an enjoyable tasting - at least as far as the red wines were concerned - and perhaps confirmation that I am beginning to appreciate Chateauneuf-du-Pape a little more. Though it will never quite match the true elegance and excitement of the top wines of the Northern Rhone.

The International Wine Challenge - what is the point of it(?) and other rants!

It was during the late 1980's when I first set out on my journey of discovery of the great big world of wine. That was around the time that Diane and I began enjoying the odd bottle or two of Bulgarian Cabernet, Romanian Pinot, various Aussie blends and the like with our meals. Well, everybody has to start somewhere - and some of those wines were, I seem to recall, very enjoyable. But it wasn't until I began to discover such delights as Chateau Musar 1979 and Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz 1987 that I began to suspect that there may be so much more out there to discover.

I can't remember who pointed me in the direction of Chateau Musar, but I am eternally grateful, because various vintages have given me so much pleasure over the years. And I still have a few 1991's, 1996's (much underrated, but gaining weight all the time) and 2001's tucked away. Not that Musar is cheap anymore (my first bottle cost around a fiver) but, at around £15 a bottle for the current vintage, it is still a relative bargain. As for Penfolds Bin 28, I can remember exactly where I first heard about it - from the results of the much-publicised International Wine Challenge (IWC), where it won a gold medal and was named "red wine of the year". And a beautiful wine it was too - so much so that it really fired my imagination and got me really interested in Aussie wines. Oh, how times have changed...... Is it my palate that has changed/evolved, or are Australian wines so different, these days? If truth be told, perhaps the answer is a little bit of both. However, I digress...........

Perhaps it was always the case that wines entered into the IWC were mainly from the supermarkets and high street chains such as Oddbins, Thresher/Wine Rack/Bottoms-Up and Majestic. But then again, 20 years ago, the supermarkets and the afore-mentioned high street chains genuinely were pushing the boundaries and unleashing countless interesting (and often brilliant) wines onto the market, thereby introducing a whole new audience to the delights of good wine.

But fast-forward 20 years, and the scene is much more depressing. Oddbins is a mere shadow of its former self (although some brave soul is attempting to revive its fortunes - with very mixed results, it would seem), whilst Thresher is reduced to selling predominantly "brand" wines at vastly over-inflated "normal" prices, but thinks it is clever to offer "buy 2 bottles and get a 3rd bottle free" - or (a variation on the same tired theme) "40% off", by way of cheap viral marketing. Perhaps they should stick to selling fags and Special Brew. Majestic is still trying (a bit) although its ever-increasing size means that more and more mass market wines are finding their way onto its shelves, at the expense of the more interesting wines from smaller, independent growers. I guess it won't be long before they are as "interesting" as the various arms of the giant Laithwaites empire. As for the supermarkets, they have mostly become deserts for thirsty wine drinkers on the lookout for interesting and unusual wines. In fact, the less said about them the better.

Which (finally!) brings me back to the International Wine Challenge. I had a look through some of the results yesterday and they made for depressing reading. Or, at least, the French ones did. Obviously, the first sections I headed for (using the "Find me an award winning wine" search facility, on the right hand side of the page) were red and white Languedoc and Roussillon and Vins de Pays. And virtually all I found were pages and pages of generic wines churned out mostly by village co-operatives, negociants and multi-national concerns - exactly the sort of boring stuff to be found on supermarket shelves. The odd "bronze", here and there - perhaps even a few "silver", but mostly just "commended". There even seemed to be several pages-worth of "awards" for the giant Skalli/Fortant de France outfit - they make a few decent(ish) and technically correct wines, but nothing to get excited about. I then headed to the Burgundy section and found much the same - mostly generic bottlings and wines from a few negociant firms and bottom-end growers (i.e. mostly supermarket wines again).

A quick look at the California section revealed yet more branded wines, along with, it has to be said, a few top-end and icon wines as well. What really caught my eye, though were the various Australian sections - countless pages of awarded wines, ranging from the usual generic stuff, through to some of the top icon wines, and all points inbeween. Which only serves to illustrate just how aggressive the Australian growers (or more likely their regional and national marketing boards) are in promoting their wines. It doesn't necessarily mean that Australian wines are better - although judging by the results of this competition, you'd think Australia was by far and away the greatest wine producing country in the world! Of course, you have to admire the Aussies for their marketing efforts. After all, they haven't become the number one exporter of wines to the UK market by sitting on their backsides and waiting for it to happen - which is what the French (or, at least, their regional maketing bodies) seem to do.

The problem is that France - as a whole - sees itself as the greatest wine-producing country in the world. Which, in my opinion (and, I would venture, that of a decent majority of the world's wine lovers) it is. But that is beside the point. The pre-eminence and reputation of the top wines from France's greatest regions means that they will always sell. But what of the thousands upon thousands of small, independent growers throughout the country who are producing brilliant wines, but struggle to find a market for them? Other than small merchants such as myself, together with the more adventurous agents/importers, there appear to be few routes into the main markets such as the UK, Europe, the Americas and the Far East.

It is easy for people like me to blame the French marketing boards for this (and I frequently do!) but there is another equally plausible explanation; that the sheer diversity of France's wine regions, styles and number of quality-minded growers - which is undoubtedly its greatest asset - also happens to be its greatest problem. Vive La France - Vive la Difference, as it were.

So what is the solution? I only wish I knew. Perhaps, in our world of homogenous products and homogenous food and wines, there is no big solution. But (and I know I've said this many times before, but I'm going to say it again) if a marketing body with the apparent clout of Les Maisons de la Régions Languedoc-Roussillon cannot even provide funding assistance for the publication of the first major book on the region's wines written in at least 6 or 7 years (by my friend Peter Gorley), then what hope is there?

I must say, this blog entry began as a bit of a rant about the futility of the International Wine Challenge and all it stands for. And don't get me started on the fact that it would cost me in the region of 100 quid (plus several sample bottles) simply to enter one single wine into this competition. If I wanted to enter (say) 20 of my wines, I would immediately be 2 Grand (plus goodness-knows-how-many cases of wine) worse off. And for what? I've seen more than enough anecdotal evidence to suggest that "serious" wine drinkers (the ones I want to drink my wines) are not the slightest bit interested in whether a wine has some or other award ticket draped around its neck. Call it snobbery, but I avoid such wines like the plague. Problem is, 95% of the UK's wine drinkers see an IWC medal on a bottle and immediately assume that it is better than all of the other bottles on the shelf.

So, to round off what has become a bit of a lengthy post(!) and to answer my own question; What is the IWC all about? Well its about marketing, of course. And on that score, the supermarkets (and the Australians) win hands down.