Nick Dobson - another good friend lost to cancer

My good friend, fellow wine merchant and erstwhile mentor Nick Dobson died recently, after a short battle with cancer. He was just 54 years old. The funeral is today, and although I am unable to make it down to Wokingham to be there, I cannot let the occasion pass without at least writing a few words of appreciation for his life and his friendship.

My start in the wine business would have been much more of a daunting prospect without Nick's generous and sage advice. Towards the end of 2003, when I decided I wanted to start importing wine, I scoured the Internet for some or other friendly merchant that seemed "small" (for want of a better expression) who might be willing to give some advice to a total beginner like me. Having found Nick's site (and noticing that he himself had started only a year or so previously) I sent him an email, with goodness-knows-how-many questions. Within the day, Nick replied with a host of answers/advice twice as long as my own email(!) From there, we had numerous other email correspondence and phone conversations. I couldn't believe my luck in finding someone so knowledgeable about setting-up a wine business and (crucially) so willing to share that knowledge - not to mention his valuable time - with someone that he had never even met.

The following year, I met Nick for the first time, when he and I and various other wine merchants got together at Waddesden Manor, to share some good food and wine and to form the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants (ASDW). I won't bore you with the details - briefly, it was (indeed still is) a trade association for small independent merchants who get together occasionally to share ideas and organise wine shows and trade tastings. Over the next few years, we met at least 2 or 3 times a year and shared some good times at various meetings and tasting events. Nick and his charming wife Jean even put me up for a night at their house, when he had organised a tasting event in his home town of Wokingham - and their kindness and hospitality made me feel very much at home. We also had a tradition of sending each-other a case of our best wines each Christmas and I very much enjoyed sampling some of his excellent and quirky selections from places like Austria, Switzerland, Beaujolais and southern Burgundy.

At The Atlas, Fulham in June 2006 - Nick Dobson is 3rd from the right

Things have moved on since then, and I am no longer a member of ASDW, but some of us have kept in touch. And although I hadn't seen Nick for a couple of years, we still enjoyed the occasional chin wag on the phone, very often for an hour or more - like me, Nick could talk for England! I have some great memories of us all getting together for AGM's and tastings at The Atlas in London, Canon's Ashby House, Wokingham Town Hall, and other venues. So I have Nick to thank not only for helping me get into the wine business (for better or worse!) but for being one of the driving forces in gathering together a disparate band of wine nuts who not only worked for a common cause, but - much more importantly - formed some long-lasting friendships. For that, and more importantly for Nick's own friendship, I am truly grateful.

Nick was diagnosed with cancer at the beginning of 2012 and he quickly decided to sell his business, in order to spend more time with Jean and their son Charlie and to try and beat his illness. The last time I spoke with hin, he was surprisingly upbeat and philosophical, and for a short while he even seemed to be making some progress. Unfortunately, it just wasn't to be.

My heart goes out to Jean, Charlie (who is a lot younger than my two boys) and all of Nick's family. To me, Nick was one of a kind, and a good friend. To them, he was infinitely more precious than that. I'll be thinking about them a lot, in the coming days and weeks............

            

Chenin Blanc heaven - 50 years of Moulin Touchais

I was pleased and honoured recently to receive an invitation from Richard Kelley MW to partake in a vertical tasting of Moulin Touchais. For the uninitiated, Moulin Touchais is one of the oldest wine estates in Anjou, dating back to 1787. One of the largest and oldest stock of single estate wine stocks in the world sits maturing in miles of underground cellars, with somewhere in the region of 1,000,000 (yes, one million!) bottles squirrelled away, some dating back to the 1800's.

The vineyards are situated in the heart of the Coteaux du Layon region and have been farmed by eight successive generations of the Touchais family. The methods of viticulture and vinification have changed little over the years. The Chenin Blanc grapes are hand-picked in several stages, with 20% of the grapes being picked around 80 days after flowering, while the fruit is still under-ripe and loaded with acidity, and the other 80% being harvested late (as late as 120 days after flowering) which yields fruit with very high sugar levels and concentrated flavours. This combination of high acidity and high sugar levels is aimed at determining the Moulin Touchais house style. The grapes are carefully sorted, the pips are removed and the must is clarified by decanting before beginning the slow fermentation process, which lasts several weeks.

The wine is bottled early - between the end of February and early March following the harvest. Residual sugar levels tend to be around 80g/l (+/- 20g, depending on the vintage). Only the best vintages are released for sale, and then only after a minimum of ten years' ageing. Whilst the grapes are harvested late, they are generally unaffected by botrytis (noble rot) although some noble rot does occasionally occur, depending on the characteristics of the vintage.

This impressive line-up of wines, spanning 50 years of Moulin Touchais, was presented by Richard Kelley MW, accompanied by Frederik Wilbrenninck, who represents the interests of Moulin Touchais and was able to offer further insight into the wines during the tasting. The venue was the Old Bridge Hotel in Huntingdon, and owner John Hoskins MW was also part of the tasting panel.

Frederik Wilbrenninck, Richard Kelley MW and John Hoskins MW

Along with the wines which are commercially available from Moulin Touchais, further wines were included from Richard's own cellar, whilst Frederik also provided some additional vintages from the 1950's, courtesy of Jean-Marie Touchais. Interestingly, although most of the wines were labelled as Coteaux du Layon, some of them were labelled as merely Anjou (especially for the UK market), the reason being that they assumed the UK wine-buying public wouldn't have a clue what Coteaux du Layon was or where it was from! Another interesting fact is that production varies from as little as 6,000 bottles to as many as 200,000 bottles, depending on the quality of the vintage. Hence, presumably, why some of the wines are no longer commercially available. Additionally, no Moulin Touchais was made in either 1983 or 2008.

Frederik talks about the wines and winemaking philosophy

What follows are my notes (which are relatively brief, since we had at least 30 wines to get through, at around 5 minutes per wine). I personally can't be doing with scores as such, but for clarity, I've used a 1, 2 and 3 star system, to indicate my preferences/favourites. The lack of a star doesn't mean that I didn't like or rate the wine - just that it was probably decent but unspectacular.

The tasters:

Sarah Ahmed

Jim Budd

David Hesketh MW

John Hoskins MW

Gary Jordan

Richard Kelley MW

Chris Kissack

Jo Locke MW

Duncan Murray

Leon Stolarski

Frederik Wilbrenninck

FLIGHT ONE – The Noughties

2003 (release set for January 2013)
Deep-ish colour. Notes of orange peel, mineral and a hint of barley sugar, with a sweet attack that carries through to a long finish. Rich orange marmalade flavour, with spices and herbs. Decent acidity for such a hot year. Jean-Marie Touchais apparently thinks this one has great potential. It certainly has the stuffing to reach a great old age! For now, I'll give it *+.

2002

Lighter colour. Nettles and grass. Mineral/wet wool too, along with a touch of florality/fruit blossom. An unusual but rather attractive palate, with a hint of acetone, which does nothing to detract from the overall enjoyment. Packed with orange flavours, deep, stoney minerality and brilliant acidity. Very long. Lovely wine. **+

2001
Similar colour to 2002. Candied orange fruit/peel. Very perfumed and complex. Citrussy, floral and mineral at the same time, with hints of herbs and spice, and even a touch of leather. The palate is rich and hedonistic, with flavours of orange marmalade, ginger, clove and cinnamon, with brilliant structure and real mineral depth. Beautiful wine. **+

2000
More like the 2003, with more barley sugar, but also more expressive on the nose, with mineral, wet wool, lemon peel and lemon oil aromas. Slightly earthy, but attractively fragrant. Fresh root ginger and spice on the palate, with lingering marmalade, spice and mineral flavours. Very long. **+

FLIGHT TWO – The Late Nineties

1999
Less expressive than the wines from the previous flight - at least in terms of fruit and savoury elements - but with lots of subtle mineral notes. Decent wine, but pales into insignificance, relative to what followed. *

1998
Full of apple and quince flavours, with an almost savoury/meaty quality, with a not unattractive vegetal note. Amazing richness to the palate, with intense spice and marmalade flavours, toffee apple and fig. Very long. **

1997
A lovely bright yellow colour, which suggests richness, as does the nose, with aromas of raisins, figs and lemon marmalade. Gently floral but not (yet) particularly mineral. Almost as rich and spicy as the 1998, but perhaps a touch more elegant and harmonious. Rich and deeply mineral, with a backbone of mouth-watering acidity, which carries all the way through to an almost endlss finish. Superb wine. ***

1996
Quite high-toned apple and lemon aromas, again with plenty of stoney minerality on the nose. This is (for me) where Chenin takes on an almost Riesling-like character, with some definite grapey, petrol/kerosene aromas. The palate shows power, concentration and complexity, with waves of dried fruit flavours, nervy acidity and immense length. A wine which manages to be both powerful and delicate at the same time. Fabulous wine. ***+(!)

1995 (limited availability)
Slightly stinky and cheesy - in an attractive way - with nicely rotting peach and apple aromas. Actually, quite farmyardy! A bit of barley sugar and a hint of woodsmoke, with a faint whiff of fermented hops. The palate is hugely mineral and much fruitier than the nose would suggest. Even richer and sweeter than the 96 and 97, with more of a barley sugar quality, but with plenty of complex rotting fruit. **

FLIGHT THREE – The Early Nineties

1994

Hints of woodsmoke, tree fruits, lemon and wet wool, but a touch muted. The palate, on the other hand, is very expressive, with a rich, ripe, almost dried fruit quality, wrapped around a core of steely/stoney minerality, with further notes of spiced marmalade, ginger and lemon peel. Finishes rich and gently bitter-sweet. **+

1992
Similar to the 94, but with a curious hint of emulsion paint. Opens-out to reveal further notes of lime oil, wet wool and polished old wood. The palate is sweet, but not so much fruity as medicinal, with cloves and balsam/expectorant to the fore. Perhaps a touch of marmalade, but overall, this reminds me too much of a trip to the dentist!

1991
Apricot, cider apple and a hint of sulphur or reduction. Old wardrobes and a sprinkling of dried herbs as well, but overall, rather unexpressive. Again, a sweet, medicinal palate, with huge spiciness. A bit too much of everything (except fruit), with bitter acidity. Not my favourite!

1990 (not available)
Very deep colour, almost orange. Reeks of figs, marmalade, hops and Parmesan cheese(!) Like the 95, a touch of farmyard manure, but really rather interesting and inviting. The palate is rich and sweet, with toffee apple, fig, fudge and orange peel flavours - like a fruit-laden butterscotch. Rich, but with decent acidity and moderate length. *+

FLIGHT FOUR – The Late Eighties

1988 (not available)
All four wines in this flight are quite deeply coloured. This one smells like Riesling! Grapey, herby, honeyed, with strong lemon and kerosene notes and bags of minerality. Very spicy and sweet - almost bitter-sweet. Rich and hedonistic, with some genuine botrytis, adding a honeyed, nutty quality. Very long. Not my absolute favourite style, but a very good wine. **+

1987 (not available)
Damn - corked! Which is a shame, because it otherwise smelled rather lovely, though it deteriorated very quickly during the flight.

1986
Lemon sorbet? Lemon grass? Lemon oil? Did I mention that this smells very lemony?! A wine with immediate appeal, with further notes of diesel and toffee apple. The palate shows enormous concentration and richness, very spicy, with apricot, fig, apple and fudge flavours. Has some real grip, too. Intense and complex. **+

1985
Smells almost fortified, like a white Maury or Banyuls. Apples, oranges, cloves and even a hint of salinity. Immensely rich and powerful (13.9% abv). Powerfully sweet, too, with flavours of toffee apple and lime oil. To be honest, the acidity is hidden beneath that enormously rich, sweet structure, but I think it will emerge in time. A massive wine, which I suspect needs another 20 to 30 years to really get into its stride. Currently, I'll give it ** but it could turn out to be even better.

As the wines age, they take on a deeper colour

FLIGHT FIVE – The Early Eighties

1984

Even though I have seen bottles of this on various auction lists for some years now (and have tasted one or two examples myself) it is still commercially available from the estate. Rich toffee aromas, with an almost chocolatey quality, with burnt apple, cloves and orange marmalade, though not really showing much in the way of minerality or high notes. The palate does though show some genuine wet wool character, along with spice and tangy lemon and lime. Long, too, and really very good. **

1982
This is faulty, I think. Acetic on the nose and palate, with a quite "dirty" feel to it. Possibly corked, but definitely not in good condition. Shot, in fact.

1981 (not available)
Very slightly rancio in character - high-toned, honey, nuts, orange and lime - but still with a nice dollop of minerality. Again, we have notes of baked apple, fermented hops and toffee. Seems fully evolved and even slightly cheesy. Rich toffee, orange and spice flavours, but with plenty of balancing acidity. It is good now, but I don't think it will improve any further. *

1980
A bit dirty, old wood, cardboardy. Corked, perhaps? The palate says yes.

FLIGHT SIX – The Seventies

1979

Apart from toffee, orange and barley sugar, this isn't particularly expressive or interesting. The palate is "winey", but not really saying much about its origins. Slightly spicey, but also slightly hot, with a bitter-sweet finish. As I said, winey, but not "Loire-y".

1976 (not available)
Another one showing toffee, orange and barley sugar, and slightly cheesy/farmyardy. It also shows some volatile acidity - bordering on acetic, but not quite, and again showing a hint of emulsion paint. The palate is possibly a touch on the dirty side, but it does have some nice apple, orange and fig flavours and sprightly acidity. It could evolve, but why wait? Good, but not great. *

1975
Vanilla. Earthy, but not fruity, though it does have plenty of allure, with polished old wood aromas accompanied by notes of citrus, honey and toffee. The palate shows genuine richness, countered by searing limey acidity. It isn't hugely complex, but it certainly appears to have plenty of life left in it. I like it. **+

1971
High-toned and seemingly very evolved. Ginger, spice, orange peel and toffee on the nose. Again, some old woody, forest floor/damp earth notes, but with a delicious core of apricot and apple fruit and some richer toffe and fig nuances. And all countered by simply wonderful acidity. Perhaps not the finest wine of the tasting, but in comparison to the wines from the late 70's and early 80's, an absolute cracker. Very long, too. **+

Deeper still!

FLIGHT SEVEN – The Sixties and Fifties

1969 (not available)
Oh dear - corked again! Badly.

1964 (not available)
Another wine with a Rivesaltes/ Banyuls nose - somewhat sherried/rancio, but with some attractive earthy and tertiary fruit aromas and flavours. Unfortunately, there is also more than a hint of Airfix glue to it, and depite the fact that there is plenty else going on, it really does get in the way.

1961 (not available)
My birth year, so a (very) rare treat. What a lovely nose! Woody, with an almost new oak character, polished, earthy, leathery and meaty. It almost smells like an old red wine, a theme which in some ways carries through on the palate, with curious (but delightful) hints of black fruits and red capsicum, with all sorts of other crystallised fruit nuances. Deceptively light and fresh, earthy and contemplative, rather than heavy or rich. Not especially complex, perhaps, but just delightfully (old) winey. Not a great wine, but a very, very good one. **+

1959 (not available - though apparently it was until a few years ago!)
A Madeira-like nose of rotting fruit, volatile acidity, old wood and sous-bois. Perhaps even more like a fine old Tokaji 5 (or even 6) Puttonyos - so definitely up my street! Wonderful flavours of rotting white fruits, honey, minerility by the bucket-load and huge acidity. Complex and very lovely! ***

1953 (not available)
A distinct note of fireworks! Further notes include old wood, forest floor, nuts and some tertiary fruit. The palate is gently oxidative (but in no way oxidised) and totally wonderful, like an old Maury, but without the alcoholic edge. Indeed, the palate is delightfully clean and fresh, with cranberry and lemon fruit flavours. It isn't hugely complex, but is deliciously tangy and very moreish, with mouth-watering acidity. A lovely wine on which to finish. ***

My overall impression from this tasting is that Moulin Touchais is a source of some very fine wines indeed - but you have to pick your vintages with care. Or, to be more specific, pick your period carefully. Without the benefit of knowing who made the wine (or how it was made)  there appears to have been a 5 to 10 year period in the late 70's and early 80's where the quality of the wines (be that due to the winemaking or iffy vintages or a bit of both) dipped quite markedly. A similar lull appeared to affect the wines from the early 90's. That's not to say that every wine from these periods was bad - or, conversely, that every wine from the other periods was great - but it does seem to indicate that (a) the majority of the wines from the 50's through to the early 70's were beautifully made, (b) that the majority of those from the mid-80's (apart from that mini-dip in the early 90's) onwards have shown a real return to form and (c) that the wines of Moulin Touchais are built to last!

Many thanks to Richard for the invite, to Frederik for his valuable insights and to John for his hospitality. It was a real treat!
              

Some delicious red and white wines from a new Provence grower - Villa Minna Vineyard

Villa Minna Vineyard is a 15 hectare family estate situated in the heart of Provence, between Aix and Salon, established in 1929 by the grandfather of current owner, former rally driver Jean-Paul Luc. Until the mid-1990's, the grapes were sold to the local co-operative, but Jean-Paul and his wife Minna (after whom the estate is now named) were more ambitious. They grafted new varieties onto existing vines that previously yielded grapes of poor quality and also planted their first parcel of Syrah. In 1996, Minna graduated from her studies in viticulture and oenology and for 3 years (1996, 1997 and 1998) Minna and Jean-Paul made their first small batches of wines, purely for the enjoyment of their family and friends.

1999 was the inaugural commercial vintage of Minna Vineyard, with just 2,900 bottles of red wine produced. But this wine gained instant recognition with 2 stars awarded in the Guide Hachette, as well as being listed by some of the best restaurants in Provence. In 2005 the first vintage of Minna Vineyard white wine was made. Since then, the estate has gone from strength to strength, garnering some excellent reviews in France's top wine publications. The estate is now in its third year of conversion towards official organic status, a philosophy which Minna and Jean-Paul have adopted all along. No pesticides or artificial fertilizers are used and weeding is kept to a minimum, whilst all cuttings from the vines and other flora are ploughed back into the ground. The soil is limestone and characterised by the presence of many fossils - difficult to work, but good for heat retention and for encouraging the roots to grow deep.

I received an invitation from Jean-Paul to visit the Villa Minna stand at the Vinisud fair in Montpellier in February 2012, and was sufficiently intrigued by the description of the wines and the impressive list of citations in the various French publications to pay them a visit. And I am glad we did, for TLD and I were bowled over by them. The white wines are quirky, elegant and full of life, whilst the reds are ripe, beautifully balanced and show excellent ageing potential. And in comparison to many of their Provençal counterparts, they are very competitively priced, considering their undoubted quality. The labels for each wine in each vintage are all different, being extracts from various childhood paintings by Jean-Paul and Minna's daughters, Tytti (pronounced Tutti) and Meryl. All of the following wines are now available to buy from the LSFineWines online shop. Give them a try - I think you will be suitably impressed! All are priced at £17.80.

Minna Vineyard Blanc 2007 Vin de Table

45% Vermentino, 36% Roussanne, 19% Marsanne. 14.0% abv. Beautifully fragrant with aromas of honeysuckle and orange blossom, hay, baked apples and pears infused with cinnamon, clove and anise. There's a herby element too, redolent of oregano and basil. But most of all, there is a quality to it that can best be described as "winey" - everything seems to have melded together beautifully, at the same time possessing the youthful attributes of a white Hermitage and the somewhat more evolved apple and mineral characteristics of a Loire Chenin Blanc. This quality also shows through on the palate, which, whilst beautifully focused, displays a mellowness that makes it a delight to drink already, offering complex flavours of soft peach, apple, apricot, spiced orange and a subtle herbiness, with refreshing acidity and a very long finish. A rather compelling Provençal white wine. £17.80

Minna Vineyard Blanc 2008 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

45% Vermentino, 26% Roussanne, 29% Marsanne. 13.0% abv. A slightly different blend than the 2007 (though from the same 3 grape varieties) - and also now with Vin de Pays (IGP) status. It is somewhat lighter-bodied and perhaps even a touch more elegant than the 2007 - not better, just different. The nose is more high-toned, more prickly, more fruity, lemon/limey, with an abundance of fresh herbs on the nose, a hint of granny smith and clove, orange pith and a whole load of minerality. It is lighter on the palate, too, but no less flavoursome - delicious flavours of herb and spice-infused apple, peach and soft citrus abound, with wonderful grip, succulent acidity and no sign of the pithy, slightly bitter flavours that can often be found in Provencal/southern Rhone whites. It really is gloriously fresh, fruity, herby and - once again - winey. The finish is tangy and mouth-watering and keeps you coming back for more. Furthermore, it really does benefit from a night in the decanter, becoming richer and more complex with plenty of air. Delicious, but will it age? I think so, but whether you want to drink it now, or keep it for a few years, you are onto a winner!

Minna Vineyard Rouge 2005 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

49% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Mourvedre. 13.5% abv. Brooding blackberry and blackcurrant aromas, damp earth, some lifted orange peel and citrus notes and a touch of leafy herbaceousness, with enticing polished wood and subtle eau de vie in the background. A hint of meat/savoury and iodine add further complexity. The palate is medium-to-full bodied and grippy, with some healthy tannins underpinning the ripe, tobacco and herb-infused bramble and raspberry fruit, whilst a backbone of juicy, orangey acidity keeps everything tightly-knit and focused. It is a cracking wine, pure and clean, with a fabulous structure, which should ensure it evolves and gains yet more complexity over the next ten years or so.

Minna Vineyard Rouge 2006 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

46% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Mourvedre. 14.5% abv. The nose is crammed full of bramble, cassis, black cherry and dried fig aromas. At the other end of the spectrum, we have violets, mixed herbs, spices and polished wood. There's a gentle yeastiness too, with subtle hints of iodine and warm eau de vie. It is certainly complex stuff! It is equally impressive on entry, with intense red and black fruit flavours, rich but not sweet, with cracking acidity. The tannins are vigourous and quite grippy, but succulent rather than drying, and combined with all of that fruit and heightened acidity, it grips the bottom of your mouth and the back palate, rather than the sides. Indeed, it is really rather refreshing and mouth-watering, for a relatively young wine, which carresses rather than assaults the senses. And oh, that nose! Drink now, or let it age and evolve for at least another 10 years.
                

A Sunday evening treat - top-notch Burgundy that didn't cost the earth

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Saint-Philibert Monopole 2008 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

Although I am a bit of a Burgundy ignoramous, I do know that this is (a) from a rather grand producer and (b) from a patch of land - albeit slightly higher and cooler - not too far removed from some rather grand (indeed Grand Cru) vineyards around Vosne-Romanée. In other words, it is - by repute, at least - top notch white Burgundy which is within the means of even relatively frugal wine buyers (like me). And by 'eck, is it good stuff! It probably lacks the sheer depth and breadth of it's more exalted brothers and sisters from the gentle, sun-kissed slopes lower down and nearer to the village, and perhaps even the expensive oak-ageing regime given to the finest cuvées, but it certainly doesn't lack in winemaking stakes - or for the qualities that elevate fine Burgundy above every single one of it's imitators around the world. Why? Because it possesses that wonderful streak of leanness and verve that sets it apart from the rest. I stress "leanness", rather than thinness, because it is otherwise possessed of all the flavour and grip you could ever ask for in a dry white wine. The last thing it needs is to be fat, for it would do nothing to enhance those wonderfully intense lemon/lime/apple and fragrant herb flavours, the sheer steely/stoney minerality and abundant (but beautifully ripe) acidity that makes you crave for food. It matters not what food, so long as it is savoury and filling. That is not to say this wine lacks richness - in this case, richness of flavour and lip-smaking more-ishness that renders the bottle two-thirds empty before the food even reaches the table! And the cost? A mere £16 (approximately) from the sale of some or other merchant whose name I can't remember (it was a shared purchase with some of my local wine geek friends). And at that price, it is a bargain. Delicious and life-affirming stuff!
           

Some new Corbières wines - Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas

Vincent Licciardi and his wife Laurence farm a total of 32 hectares of vines around the sleepy village of Moux, in the foothills of the Montagne d'Alaric, between Carcassone and Narbonne. TLD and I visited them in June, en route from our accommodation in the Ariège region to Faugères. And although our rather fraught journey (including a horrendous traffic jam on the autoroute) made us around 2 hours late for our appointment, we were treated to an excellent 4-course lunch, including an absolutely wonderful summer truffle risotto, accompanied by the full range of wines. It would be difficult to find a more friendly and charming couple - and their wines (not forgetting Laurence's home cooking) are delicious!

Vincent and Laurence Licciardi

The vines grow on a subsoil of limestone and clay and benefit from a terroir defined by the warm Mediterranean sun and the dry winds of the northerly Cers Tramontane. They employ sustainable viticultural practices, with only minimal use of spraying in the vineyards, when absolutely necessary.

Moux, with the Montagne d'Alaric in the background

The winery at Prieuré Sainte Mari d'Albas

The grapes are hand-picked at the height of their maturity (at yields averaging no more than 35 hl/ha) and are pre-selected during the harvest itself, prior to being vinified in such a way as to bring the best out of the fruit and yield genuinely expressive wines. The reds are all vinified using the carbonic maceration method (i.e. whole bunches - a la Beaujolais). Although I am not normally a fan of this method, the red wines of Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas manage to be rich, fruity and beautifully balanced, yet imbued with typical Lanuedoc warmth and spicyness. The rosé is "proper" wine (made from direct pressing, rather than the free-run saignée method) and the white is full of juicy citrus and tree fruit flavours. What's more, we now have the following wines in stock. Try them - you won't be disappointed!

Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas 4 Saisons 2010 Corbières

40% Carignan, 30% Grenache, 30% Syrah. 13.5% abv. Intense, deep purple colour, with real aromatic complexity - a melange of summer pudding fruits, garrigue herbs, cumin and coriander, with hints of roses, violets and leather. On the palate, it is soft, easy drinking, yet nicely concentrated, with a great mouthful of fresh summer fruit flavours, ample acidity and a just the right level of tannic grip. Stylistically, this isn't too far removed from a rather good Cru Beaujolais - in other words, gloriously fruity, but with a little southern warmth thrown-in for good measure. Lovely wine! £9.79.

Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas Terre Rouge 2009 Corbières

50% Grenache, 50% Syrah. 13.5% abv. A deep, intense, glossy purple colour. Another complex nose, displaying aromas of ripe red fruits, crushed blackcurrants, with hints of garrigue herbs, crushed pepper, spices, roasted meats and light mineral notes. There's a hint of clotted cream, too, along with a gentle whiff of fine eau de vie. Indeed, it has a similar aromatic profile to a rather good Chateauneuf! The palate is marked by a breadth of generous spiced black cherry and bramble fruit, with hints of meat and savoury herbs. Supple tannins and refreshing soft citrus-tinged acidity combine to add a sweet and sour quality. A long, spicy finish completes the package, in a wine chock full of southern character. £11.75.

Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas Rosé 2010 Corbières

50% Grenache, 50% Syrah. 12.5% abv. Crystal clear and copper-coloured with salmon pink highlights. Beautifully fragrant, with aromas of raspberry, cherry, mint and garrigue herbs. Bags of juicy red cherry and raspberry fruit on the palate, with a gently creamy texture. This is a "proper" rosé, made from pressed grapes (rather than the usual "saignée" or free-run method), nicely rounded and without any of the slightly bitter notes found in many other rosés. A lovely wine, which strikes a balance between easy-drinking soft summer fruits and refreshing crispness. £8.99.

Prieuré Sainte Marie d'Albas l'Alliance Blanc 2010 Corbières

100% Macabeu. 12.5% abv. Clear and bright with pale yellow/gold highlights. On the nose, delicate floral aromas of white peach, white flowers and lemon oil, with disticnctly herby overtones - basil, mint and oregano spring to mind. The palate is bright and crisp, offering juicy citrus and exotic fruit flavours. There's a fair amount of richness to it - not oily, but expansive and lightly spicy. The finish is very long and gently warming, yet remaining remarkably fresh and mouth-watering. £9.79.

      

Reunited, Together Again, Never Gonna Give You Up.........

OK, so that's enough of the song titles! Let me explain..........

A few weeks ago, I was up at my Mum's and was just going out of the front door when we noticed a car reversing from a drive across the road. I assumed that the driver had noticed my motorcycle parked there - after all, it is (for want of a better expression) big, red and shiny! With hindsight, what happened next was pretty inevitable really. In fact, it reminds me of King Harold's last words at the Battle of Hastings - "Watch that bloke over there with a bow and arrow - he'll have somebody's eye out in a minute!" Alright, so he probably didn't say that, but I bet he wished he had done. ;-)

"Ooh", said my Mum, "Watch that car over there, it looks as if it's getting a bit close to your bike." In the 2 or 3 seconds it would have taken me to run up the drive and bang on the car window, all I managed to do was to yell "Oi!!!!!!!", as the car sent my bike crashing down onto the pavement. As the rather shocked lady got out of her car, she remarked that she'd seen the bike parked there earlier, but was concentrating too much on looking left and right to notice what was behind her. I pulled the bike up and put it back on the stand, to inspect the damage. The most noticable things were a rather bad gash on the crankcase/clutch cover and a mashed-up handlebar end weight, plus a few superficial chips and scratches on the mirror, indicator, tail fin and the bottom of the fairing. "It's the first accident I've ever had, so I'd rather not go through the insurance and lose my no-claims", said the lady.

So the next day, I went to the Honda dealer to obtain prices for a new clutch cover and handlebar weight, which would come to just shy of £200. Being a kind soul (some would say naivve/stupid) I was prepared to overlook the chips and scratches, figuring I could sort those out myself. But by the time I contacted her, she'd discovered that there was some damage to the back of her car, and since her cover included a protected no-claims discount and just £50 excess, she would prefer to go through the insurance. It was all surprisingly simple and I hardly had to lift a finger, as her insurance company called to arrange collection (all the way from London!) of my bike and a replacement hire bike for the duration. Within a couple of days, I had a shiny black Kawasaki ZX6R to play with, whilst my Honda was taken away for assessment/repair.  It was a lovely bike, but not as lovely as my own, so I was keen to get it back.

Nice bike but not as nice as my own.......

What happened next was a bit more drawn-out and stressful than I had hoped. Clearly, the assessor had gone over the bike with a magnifying glass and a fine-tooth comb, because they decided that if every little bit of damage they found had to be repaired or replaced, it would exceed the value of the bike. I was left with three options:

(1) They would effect most (but not all) of the repairs, up to the cost of what they estimated the value of the bike to be.

(2) They would write-off the bike and it would be returned to me in its current condition, together with an amount of money.

(3) They would write-off the bike and dispose of it, and I would receive a cheque for the full current market value.

Being a bit dim, it took me a while to digest this information, so I asked him to just go back to option 2 and explain it to me in more detail. Basically, he said, it would be a "Category C" write-off - which in effect means "beyond economical repair, but can be put back on the road". "So", I asked, "apart from getting the bike back, how much will I get?" When I heard his answer, you could have knocked me down with a feather! "Bit of a no-brainer", I said. "Yes", he said.

It took a week or so for me to finally get the cheque, and another week before they brought my bike back, but - to cut a rather long story just a bit shorter - me and my beautiful Honda CBR600RR are finally reunited, and I have a decent-sized cheque in the bank, which should more than comfortably pay for the necessary repairs and replacement parts. All I have to do now is to get her through an MOT (which is due anyway) and re-insured (which is also due) and everything will be tickety-boo. And once I have spent a few hundred quid on replacing the damaged bits (all of which are purely cosmetic and don't affect the rideability of the bike) and some silver touch-up paint, she will effectively be back to pretty much mint condition. So who am I to complain?

Then again, it does bring into stark focus one of the reasons why insurance premiums are so damned expensive these days. That's all I'm going to say..........

Together again with my beautiful Honda CBR600RR

As a postscript, I also received a letter from my ex-employers the other day, informing me that I would receive a "corporate bonus" (or at least part thereof, for the part of the last financial year I worked). Considering I "retired" in October 2011, it came as a very pleasant surprise. Not a huge sum, you understand, but it will buy me a few nice bottles of wine. Every little helps! ;-)

           

Two new wines from Provence - a classy rosé and a compelling red

Alongside all the other things that have been occupying my time in recent weeks, I have been dealing with my annual shipment of wines from Provence, including Domaine de Trévallon, Chateau d'Estoublon and a grower new to my list, Villa Minna (of which more in my next post). Meanwhile, here are my notes on a rosé and a red that I have just uploaded to the website.

Chateau d'Estoublon Le Rosé 2011 Les Baux de Provence

1/3 each of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, aged for 6 months, partly in oak barrel and partly in stainless steel. There is an orangey quality to both the colour and nose of this wine - an exquisite shade of pale onion skin/terracotta, with a delightful pot-pourri of flowers, summer fruits (redcurrant, raspberry, peach) and herbs and juicy tangerine. At 14.0% abv, it is definitely a food wine rather than a quaffer, but whilst undeniably rich and heady, it certainly isn't hot. The palate is in fact beautifully rounded and complex, offering soft red fruit and citrus, a layer of creamy richness, mouth-watering acidity and even a modicum of tannin. Again, there is a subtle herbiness, which combines seamlessly with the other elements in a tangy but elegant wine. It compares well with some of the finest rosés Provence has to offer (for instance, the excellent, though very pricey wines of Domaines Ott) at a price that doesn't break the bank. Classy wine! £15.79

Domaine de Trévallon 2009 IGP Alpilles

The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice that the denomination has changed from Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone to IGP Alpilles. This is the result of recent reforms in the French wine regulations - see here for more information (for time-rich wine geeks only!). Essentially, though, nothing has changed - and the wine in the bottle is as good as ever - if not better!

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with each variety aged in oak foudres for 20 months, prior to blending and bottling. The colour, which is deep-ish but semi-translucent, hints at an elegant wine - as does the truly evocative, perfumed nose, with its intense aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, cranberry and blackberry, hints of woodsmoke, garrigue herbs, garam masala and polished old wood. Neither the Cabernet nor the Syrah have the upper hand, with a touch of cassis and charred red capsicum melding nicely with hints of smoky pastrami and violet. As for the palate, I don't think I have ever tasted a Trévallon that shows such elegance and finesse in its first flush of youth. It is medium-bodied, rather than full-on, again more red fruits than black, and beautifully tangy, with ripe, supple tannins, soft citrus acidity and a noticeable streak of minerality. Subtle hints of lapsang tea, black olive tapenade, all-spice, meat and herbs de Provence show through, carried along upon waves of mouth-watering fruit. It is all so beautifully balanced and at 13.0% abv (quite unusual in these times of global warming) perfectly ripe - a sign of exceptional winemaking. This may not be a 20-year wine, in terms of development potential (though who is to say it won't be?) but it is so delicious now. Wines can sometimes go through a "closed" phase, but I suspect that this one will remain open for business, so if you want a clue as to the glories of an aged Trévallon, but don't want to wait, then this is the one. An utterly compelling wine. £38.75.

I'm not quite done with writing-up all of these new wines, but already have a few more notes in the can, as it were, so will be adding a few more blog entries over the next few days.

        

I'm back!

To paraphrase Mark Twain, reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated. Actually, there have been no such reports, but it has certainly been deathly quiet on this blog for far too long (nearly 5 weeks!). So what have I been up to that has been so important to prevent me communicating over the blogosphere for so long? Well, there was another trip to France (to visit my relatives in the north), organising more new wine imports, an insurance claim for damage to my motorcycle (no, I wasn't riding it at the time), stuff to do around the house and garden, not to mention being glued to the telly and/or computer watching Bradley Wiggins' epic Tour de France victory and those glorious 2 weeks of the London 2012 Olympics.

There are bloggers out there (including some in the wine world) who feel compelled to blog every single day, but I'm not one of them. I do it because I enjoy it - and clearly, some of my readers do too, given that I have had literally several(!) people telling me to get blogging again. But I see no point in blogging for the sake of it - even if I do have plenty to say! Sometimes, real life (and, occasionally, downright laziness) takes precedence. But now I am back, feeling (relatively) refreshed and ready to go. Who knows, I might even post several times within the next few days. Here's one I prepared earlier..........

I have been rather unkind about the wines of Domaine Matassa in the past. In fact, to say I've been forthright in my condemnation is a bit of an understatement. I wanted to like them, but couldn't find it within myself to do so. But I take each wine as it comes and try to judge on merit, rather than reputation, so it was nice to be able to say some good things (though with a caveat) about this one, which cropped up in a recent blind tasting at the Nottingham Wine Circle.

Matassa 2004 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

Still a nice youthful dark ruby colour, perhaps showing a touch of age at the rim. High-toned on the nose, perhaps even bordering on volatile acidity (which I like), with some very enticing aromas of redcurrant and cranberry and perhaps a touch of overripe bramble, with background notes of polished wood and leather, forest floor and a gentle meatiness. In the mouth, that slightly volatile acidity comes to the fore, in an almost unnatural (perhaps "enhanced") way - although, once again, it appeals to me, because I like plenty of acidity in my wine. My only slight concern is that the balance may (or may not) not be quite right. The tannins are beginning to resolve nicely, and there's a nice kernel of red and black fruit flavours, with a touch of garrigue herbiness. But a wine lives on it's acidity - and this wine has more than enough of thatm so the only question is, can it last? I guess only time will tell, and although I can see it ageing (and perhaps even improving) for a few years yet, I would be loath to keep it for too much longer. If you have some (I don't), then I would suggest you enjoy it now, whilst it still has a touch of sweet fruit to balance that acidity.

As fate/coincidence often has it in a blind (and, as usual at Nottingham Wine Circle, totally "un-organised") tasting, the Matassa was immediately followed by another wine from Languedoc, and built in a very similar fashion..........

Domaine Leon Barral Jadis 2005 Faugères

This is a really dark, brooding colour, again showing just a touch of maturity on the (tiny) rim. The nose is very complex, exhibiting notes of bramble, plum and blackcurrant, some rather classy oak, leather, meat, rotting leaves and a waft of eau de vie. Subtle hints of smoky bacon, herbs, wet stone and white flowers are indicative of Syrah and Carignan (plus I believe some Grenache) grown on schiste soil. It comes across as very fresh and vibrant, and again quite high-toned, especially on the palate, which possesses a rich, fruity, spicy and considerably tannic structure, but (as with the Matassa) an almost spine-tingling level of acidity. Again, whether this is all natural or enhanced is open to question. Whatever it is, it certainly makes the mouth water! And this is a mightily impressive wine, which (assuming those tannins soften a little and the acidity doesn't get too out of control) should age very nicely for another 5 to 8 years.

Finally, here's my note on the last of our samples from Domaine d'Archimbaud - not in stock, yet, but perhaps nearer to the end of the year...........

Domaine d'Archimbaud La Robe du Pourpre 2009 Languedoc Saint-Saturnin

I asked TLD the other night which bottle she would prefer - the £15 bottle (actually an absolute steal for the undoubtedly brilliant Vina Ardanza 2001 Rioja Reserva Especial) or the free bottle (i.e this one). Ultimately, I made the decision myself and, as TLD quite rightly stated, "Archimbaud have never made a bad wine". And this one is a classic example of why we both hold them in such high regard. A gloriously heady mix of red and black fruits, truffles, garrigue herbs, mint, polished old wood and cool eau de vie. Oh, and did I mention the waft of flowers and a subtle whiff of meat? It really is such a wonderful perfume, as are the flavours, which really do deliver on the promise of the nose in a wine that encapsulates everything that I love about Languedoc wines in general, and this grower in particular. As is often the case, I am writing my note on this wine based on the dregs, having opened the bottle a couple of evenings ago, but no matter, for it remains fresh, full of fruit and complexity and perfectly balanced (even at a relatively young age) with fine, silky tannins and lip-smacking acidity.

More (much more) anon!

A quintessential Languedoc red wine

I wasn't planning to blog tonight, though I probably really should, given my pathetically low "blog count" in recent months. And here is a good reason to do so - namely, a wine which exemplifies everything I love about the wines (and, in particular, the red wines) of the Languedoc. 

As has become almost a tradition for TLD and I, our long journey north at the end of our annual holiday in the region almost invariably includes a brief detour from the A75 autoroute to the village of Saint-Saturnin de Lucian, in the foothills of the Larzac plateau, to taste the latest vintages of the Cabanes family at Domaine d'Archimbaud. Having taken the precaution of telephoning ahead, to make sure that Jean-Pierre and his wife Marie-Claude would be able to receieve us, we turned up (as is usually the case), around half an hour later than planned. Which was cutting it fine, because they had almost given up on us and were about to set off for another appointment (a tasting and lunch, I think) in one of the nearby villages. Thankfully, we just had time for a quick tasting of their current reds, plus a rather delicious white wine that we haven't imported before. I'll tell you more about the white in a subsequent post (I now have a few cases available, which I will soon add to the website) but for now I want to tell you about the wine we had with dinner this evening........

Domaine d'Archimbaud Tradition 2009 Coteaux du Languedoc Saint-Saturnin

The nose is just glorious - a positively ambrosial mix of rich, ripe, bramble, plum and raspberry fruits, forest floor, old wood, garrigue herbs, clotted cream and cool eau de vie - there's no oak to speak of in this wine. But its sheer vibrancy and the waft of citrus and cherry-infused acidity make for a mouth-watering prospect. And it doesn't let me down, caressing the palate with a wonderful combination of sweet, ripe red and black fruits, spices, herbs and crushed pepper, allied to fine, ever-so-slightly dusty tannins and vibrant, tangy acidity. The merest hint of leather and cool mint, together with a slight earthiness and even a touch of cider apple merely add to the allure of what is (for the money - about £11 will be the limit) a considerably complex and lovely wine. There are those rare occasions when a wine is unthinkingly - even haphazardly - chosen to accompany a meal, yet turns out to be the perfect match. And this was one of those occasions, for I grabbed it from a pile of bottles which have been sitting behind me in the dining room since returning from our holiday. But it turned out to be the ideal foil for pan-fried duck breast with a sauce made from the meat juices, some chicken stock, a little red wine and dry Oloroso Sherry, some home-made blackberry jam, lemon juice and creme fraiche. For despite its sweet, succulent fruit flavours, it has just the right combination of ripe tannins and juicy acidity to cut through the fatty richness of the duck - a nigh-on perfect food and wine combination. That said, my suspicion that this is simply a delicious wine in its own right was confirmed later, when polishing-off the remaining half a glass.

To be honest, I've read enough hype and (mainly, though not exclusively) paid-for publicity about "another" grower in Saint-Saturnin to last me a lifetime, but if that grower's wines are anywhere near as good as the ones made by Domaine d'Archimbaud, then they must be pretty special, for this is as close to being the quintessential Languedoc red wine as I can think of. It may be a few months before I have some in stock (I still have a few cases of the delicious 2008 left to sell) but you can be sure I will be shouting from the rooftops when I do have some. Meanwhile, if you fancy trying some of my current wines from Domaine d'Archimbaud, you can find them here - and I cannot recommend them highly enough.

         

A few images to remind us what summer looks like

This time last week, TLD and I were on the way back from our holiday in France, somewhere between Chartres and Evreaux. The sun was setting and we were hungry. Having passed through Chartres, and having missed what TLD told me a few minutes later was not just a McDonalds (I do like the odd one, but I needed a "proper"meal) but a couple of other "decent" eateries, I had almost given up on the idea of eating something wholesome until we got home. But as we passed through Evreaux (taking the Orleans-Rouen route is a touch slower - with no autoroute - but more direct and more scenic) we spotted a Buffalo Grill. As it was by now 10.40 pm, we didn't hold out much hope, but the sign said "serving 11.00 to 11.00", so we went inside. It was heaving with diners, and 15 minutes later, we were tucking into entrecote steak and frites, with a lovely mixed salad and a demi-pichet of Cotes du Rhone Rouge. Heaven!

By then, we had enjoyed two full weeks (give or take a day or two) of almost unbroken warmth and sunshine. By the same token, we knew that the weather in the UK had been pretty much the same as when we left - i.e. cool and wet - for those same two weeks, but we were hoping that things might change when we got back. Unfortunately it hasn't, and this is turning out to be possibly the worst summer I can remember in my 51 years. It really is quite depressing - May, June and now July have been almost unremittingly wet. Even when the sun comes out for a short while, there are menacing clouds filling the sky. Perhaps the weather gods are saving all of the sunshine for the Olympics in August, but I somehow doubt that things are going to turn around by then. Who to blame? Nobody, I guess - even I can't blame the Government for the weather! But at least I can remind you what sunny weather looks like, by way of a few shots from our couple of weeks away........... 

On the A20, somewhere between Chateauroux and Limoges

The Saturday market in Cahors

The pool and garden at our gite in the Ariege

The view from our villa in Autignac, Faugeres - dusk over the hills of Haut Languedoc

Blue sky over our villa - artistic, or what?!

Another view from the road next to our villa





Caussiniojouls in Faugeres - Brigitte Chevalier's cellar is at the top of the village



Sunset over the Haut Languedoc

Sunset at Domaine de La Garance, near Caux (more on this in my next post)

The same sky, with a wider angle

On the A75 autoroute, just south of Clermont Ferrand

Sunset, somewhere between Chartres and Evreaux, northern France

The same view, zoomed-in

Oh well - back to reality! More soon........................

            

A visit to Domaine de Ravanès

Domaine Ravanès is fairly unusual in Languedoc, insofar as the vineyards are planted predominantly (though by no means exclusively) with Bordeaux grape varieties. The estate was purchased by Felix Benin in 1955, but it wasn't until 1972 that Felix's son Guy planted Merlot, followed by other varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and - of all things - Ugni Blanc (a.k.a Trebbiano). Ugni Blanc is actually the most widely-planted grape variety in France, although the majority of it is used for the production of Cognac and Armagnac. It is otherwise considered to be a rather undistinguished grape, but in the right hands, it can be the source of some really rather good wine.

In 1989, Guy's son Marc obtained a PhD in Oenology-Ampelography,  following his studies at the Institute of Oenology in Bordeaux, and took over the estate in 1990. In 1994, Marc grafted Petit Verdot (another Bordeaux variety) onto the rootstock of a Cinsault vineyard that had existed for 25 years or more. The Petit Verdot vines are therefore effectively around 45 years old. Other varieties planted include Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu. There also exists a small plot of Aramon, but this is retained merely for historical purposes, rather than wine. The total area under vine is 32 hectares.

We visited the Domaine Ravanès stand at Vinsud in February this year, my interest having been piqued by some excellent aged red wines (sourced via auction) tasted over the previous few months. Although I found some of the younger wines challenging to taste at the end of a long day's tasting at Vinisud, I was convinced of their quality and resolved to visit the estate on this holiday. We arrived at around 6.30 in the evening, with the sun still beating down and temperatures still in the high 20's.

Marc Benin is a gentle, shy and unassuming man and was an excellent host. To begin with, we climbed into his 4X4 and took a tour of the vineyards, which are planted in many different plots surrounding the house.



Cabernet Sauvignon vines



Some plots are large, some small, and the soil (which is mainly clay/limestone) contains varying amounts of stones and pebbles (from the "gravières" - gravel pits, of which there are many here, washed down from the hills by the adjacent River Orb), making for a terroir very similar to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, or even Graves in Bordeaux. The proximity of the river also means that the late-harvested sweet white wines (extraordinary wines, made entirely from Ugni Blanc) benefit from botrytis (noble rot). Merlot ripens very easily here, and is usually harvested at the end of August, whilst the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are often picked as late as October, depending on the characteristics of the vintage.

The River Orb runs by the estate

The house and winery are surrounded by 32 hectares of vineyards

Following our tour of the vineyards, we repaired to the cool of the wine cave, where Marc treated us to a tasting of his current range of wines.

The tasting room

Owner and winemaker at Domaine Ravanès, Marc Benin

I did make some brief notes at the time, but Marc kindly allowed me to take the bottles away, to taste at my leisure. Here are my full notes - prices quoted are what I will be selling them for (edit, October 2012 - all are now in stock);

l'Ibis Blanc 2010 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel
50% Ugni Blanc and 50% Grenache Gris and Blanc. Delightful aromas of peaches, apricots and orange blossom, with further hints of honeysuckle, mixed herbs, patisserie and citrus zest. Gloriously fresh and zingy, yet smooth and really quite complex. There's a nice touch of firmness/grip, but it is extremely fruity, with a refreshing streak of soft citrus acidity. A delightful wine and a real bargain. £8.99.

Le Guepier Rosé 2011 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel
A blend of Merlot and Cinsault. A lovely pink rose/onion skin colour. Fragrant stuff - strawberry, peach and redcurrant fruit aromas, soft citrus too, with a touch of cream and vanilla. So many rosés (even some of the better ones) can have a bit of the sweet shop about them, but this one has none of that - it really is delightfully fresh, fruity, soft, yet properly "winey", with a touch of complexity and a soft orange and redcurrant finish. It really is lovely stuff, and definitely my rose of the year so far. £8.99.

Le Renard Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays de Coteaux de Murviel
80% Grenache Gris, 20% Macabeu, barrel fermented and aged for 1 year. A limpid straw/gold colour, with cool, fresh aromas of peach and apricot, honeysuckle and soft citrus. There's also a touch of woodsmoke and a really quite intense minerality, like rain-washed slate or stone. It is made with a low dose of sulphur and in a very slightly oxidative style, but really is as clean as a whistle. The palate is at the same time light and airy but rich and expansive, with honey and stone fruit flavours countered by a gentle pithiness. Again, it shows deep minerality and complexity, with a hint of wood tannin and ample acidity. The finish is long, cool and mouth-watering. A really cracking wine, which is good to drink now, but will also age nicely for a few nore years. £15.95.

Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Coteaux de Murviel
This is crammed full of cassis and bramble fruit, tobacco, citrus and spice aromas, with a hint of meat and new leather. The palate is bright and intensely fruity, lightly spicy and herby, with heightened tannins and lip-smacking acidity. And despite the tannic structure, it has the structure of a decent Claret, but more than enough warm, southern charm to make it very drinkable now - even lightly chilled. £9.50.

Petit Verdot 2010 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Murviel
Classy nose - leather, meat, tobacco, citrus and a whole load of black cherry, blackcurrant, bramble, forest floor and kirsch. On the palate, it has real tannic grip, but is ever so fruity, with those dark garrigue herb-infused fruits and citrus combining beautifully in a wine of real freshness and verve. And despite the fact that it is aged exclusively in vats (i.e. no oak influence) it has real complexity, with hints of tobacco and dark chocolate and a peppery finish. Ripe but not overtly rich, generous but beautifully balanced. £11.95.

Cuvée Diogène Réserve 2008 Vin de Pays de Coteaux de Murviel
60% Petit Verdot, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now we are really entering into Languedoc territiory of ripe, almost opulent fruit, aided by 18 months' ageing in 1, 2 and 3 year-old oak barrels. Aromas of cassis and bramble, black cherry and cedar, with an intriguing note of violet. Beautifully fresh in the mouth, with bright, intense fruit flavours, just the merest hint of savoury, ripe, almost velvety tannins and bags of fresh acidity. It is so wonderfully balanced that it is eminently drinkable now, but also has enough stuffing and structure to age for at least another 10 years. A fabulous combination of ripe fruit, florality and restrained power - a really elegant wine. A stunning bargain at £13.50.

Les Gravières de Taurou Grand Réserve 2007
The estate's top red, this is a blend of 58% Petit Verdot and 42% Merlot, aged for 28 months in a mix of 1, 2 and 3 ear-old oak barrels. An opaque black cherry colour with a tiny rim, it reeks of rich, ripe, concentrated bramble and cassis, with notes of dried figs and orange peel and a cloak of fine, gently charred oak, leather and cigar box. The palate is rich and concentrated, the black fruits augmented by flavours of licourice, lapsang tea, garrigue herbs and peppermint, with a definite streak of minerality, rich, ripe tannins and plenty of acidity. As with the Diogène (and perhaps even more so) this has real ageing potential - I'd say 15 years-plus - but it has such warmth, such generosity, and is so approachable in it's youth. A quality that most classed growth Claret can only dream of having. This is a very, very fine wine, with a great future ahead of it. £22.99, and worth every penny.

This was a cracking visit, and a real treat to be able to spend some quality time in the company of Marc Benin and tasting his lovely wines. And I can't wait to get them in stock - hopefully, before the end of the summer.